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30 years since i was able to grow some weeds. i am now the proud parent of some beautiful girls.... : )( :

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30 years since i was able to grow some weeds. i am now the proud parent of some beautiful girls.... : )( :

JaBy 541 Replies 48,418 Views
Page 10 of 28 · Replies 181–200 of 542
#182
Eledin said:
She is a beauty! That distance is still a bit close but I think should be fine and if not you will realize and put it even higher anyway if the symptoms get worse. If youre gonna feed her start with half those I dont see her taking nutes from the lower leaves which means she is not hungry but that doesnt mean she cant eat, it will help her develop faster as long as its not too much. If you see tips starting to yellow and its not only on the upper leaves (which would be light stress) it means youre giving too much PK. If the tips start ponting downwards and progress to a claw like form is too much N. This is just a huge generalization to avoid going into much detail and making the post huge, but if you follow those indicators you can 100% find their sweet spot as to how much they can eat.

Start of PK burn if the yellow tips are in all the nodes:
View attachment 2367240
Medium PK burn (by this point you should have already realized and backed up the dose so this doesnt happen by realizing about the yellow tips)
View attachment 2367242
Advanced PK burn
View attachment 2367249

Start of nitrogen toxicity:
View attachment 2367250
Medium nitrogen toxicity (it advances from just the tips to the leaves clawing)
View attachment 2367252
Advanced nitrogen toxicity:
View attachment 2367255
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that is truly outstanding info. Much Thanks Indeed! 😍👍👍👍👍
 
#183
BearWater said:
Are you noticing any results yet?
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i was seeing a good number of the leaves yellowing and dying as i was trying to dry the soil enough to kill them. it appears the plants like this approach better. and it appears as if the gnats are dwindling. i'm gonna have to wait a couple days to see if this persists or if it has a negative affect on the plants.
 
#184
JaBy said:
i was seeing a good number of the leaves yellowing and dying as i was trying to dry the soil enough to kill them. it appears the plants like this approach better. and it appears as if the gnats are dwindling. i'm gonna have to wait a couple days to see if this persists or if it has a negative affect on the plants.
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The soil that im finishing up with various plants (last bit of it) was known locally to have gnats, it’s an outdoor growers mix, really good stuff! But too wet and they would come about, so I just made sure I let my pots dry out an extra day (less ideal for the soil) but ideal for getting rid of them! And sticky yellow traps if you have access to those!

Good luck man! Seems like you are starting to get the up hand though💪
 
#185
Eledin said:
Yes similar to that, but I never tried with sand I dont know how effective it is. The roots lifting the soil doesnt count hahaha, the idea is that the roots have a safe space where they will be always be able to breathe no matter how much water you put into the pot and how long it takes to dry. With textile pots the sides absorb humidity facilitating that the pot doesnt stay wet for too long, also the bottom if you have them lifted. With plastic pots the only thing you can do is poke some holes on the bottom if it doesnt have them already and lift them with rocks or clay pebbles or a rack so it has a bit of transpiration and also doesnt sit on water if there's runoff.
In my honest opinion, youre making it very difficult for yourself to water those plants properly because you have to add the exact ammount they will be able to absorb without staying wet for too long in a pot that has 0 transpiration in case there's excess humidity and that ammount will be different depending on the stage of the plant of course so... yeah... very very hard to get it always right 😬 problems are bound to happen eventually.
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i would agree but i would suggest that the way they are displacing the soil is providing an area where there is air although air doesn't mean oxygen neccessarily. i look at how healthy the plant looks as a guide post but this can mean that a plant might look healthy and be a slower developer due to this. the most important indicator to me is how much root structure is evident. once they are sufficiently developed judging how much to water them is a breeze. i always try to saturate the soil to the point where any pooled up water at the bottom is absorbed within 10 minutes. fairly easy, all i do at that point is keep an eye on when they need water again.
 
#186
BearWater said:
The soil that im finishing up with various plants (last bit of it) was known locally to have gnats, it’s an outdoor growers mix, really good stuff! But too wet and they would come about, so I just made sure I let my pots dry out an extra day (less ideal for the soil) but ideal for getting rid of them! And sticky yellow traps if you have access to those!

Good luck man! Seems like you are starting to get the up hand though💪
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i was seeing too much damage being done to the plants trying to let the soil dry out. my biggest problem is i have a certain amount of space to grow and within a week or two the tallest plant will require me to start flowering to insure the space suffices. i got to get rid of the gnats in a fairly quick fashion to allow the other plants to progress as much as possible.

i did what i could to prevent them from escaping the soil so the traps are of little benefit.
 
#187
JaBy said:
i was seeing too much damage being done to the plants trying to let the soil dry out. my biggest problem is i have a certain amount of space to grow and within a week or two the tallest plant will require me to start flowering to insure the space suffices. i got to get rid of the gnats in a fairly quick fashion to allow the other plants to progress as much as possible.

i did what i could to prevent them from escaping the soil so the traps are of little benefit.
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I hear you : ) it really is less than ideal for the entire plant and soil and all. Im finishing that soil off and then I’ll be in my custom “pro mix” stuff across the bar! : ) loving it so far… so far lol!
 
#188
JaBy said:
i would agree but i would suggest that the way they are displacing the soil is providing an area where there is air although air doesn't mean oxygen neccessarily. i look at how healthy the plant looks as a guide post but this can mean that a plant might look healthy and be a slower developer due to this. the most important indicator to me is how much root structure is evident. once they are sufficiently developed judging how much to water them is a breeze. i always try to saturate the soil to the point where any pooled up water at the bottom is absorbed within 10 minutes. fairly easy, all i do at that point is keep an eye on when they need water again.
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Yes I understand. Im not saying you cant grow a healthy plant in plastic without transpiration or drainage holes but I would never do it because problemns are bound to happen eventually (doesnt mean it will every grow). Since I started using textile pots I never went back to plastic pots, now I use the plastic pots to lift plants that didnt grow tall enough, thats the only use I have for them 🤣 and mind you that mine had holes. Sometimes just because you cant see negative effects doesnt mean theyre not there. There's many things that can happen that wont give you any signs but will affect the development of the plants. Slower growth and buds that are not at its full potential are the 2 major problems that even if your plant looks healthy you can get.
 
#190
Eledin said:
Yes I understand. Im not saying you cant grow a healthy plant in plastic without transpiration or drainage holes but I would never do it because problemns are bound to happen eventually (doesnt mean it will every grow). Since I started using textile pots I never went back to plastic pots, now I use the plastic pots to lift plants that didnt grow tall enough, thats the only use I have for them 🤣 and mind you that mine had holes. Sometimes just because you cant see negative effects doesnt mean theyre not there. There's many things that can happen that wont give you any signs but will affect the development of the plants. Slower growth and buds that are not at its full potential are the 2 major problems that even if your plant looks healthy you can get.
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wow, your a dick, there are multitudes of plastic containers out there without a purpose, waiting for a chance to feel some fulfillment in life, just surviving to slowly degrade in the dying sunset...... 🤔🤔🤔😂😂

i would agree, there's greater chance for disaster doing things this way. look what happened to #1 & 3 this last grow 😰🥵🤢🤧. i would consider still it has to do with the characteristics of the soil as well as other aspects (severe over watering 😱😱😱), they never recovered. at this point with this grow i've got to effectively manage their progress better than the last time. one thing i'm thinking is there have been some very good outcomes, the oregon grape and to some degree the #2 which is on par with the o g. curious as it is, the lemon kush is behaving much like the o g. this might suggest either i'm not managing the others well or they are predisposed to be difficult as opposed to the known strain seeds. i have to bear in mind that the plants in this grow were transplanted from the dixie cups they started in too early. i like to see a good bit of roots around the soil before transplanting. this inevitably led me to need to take care how much water they got at first. it would make sense for more air in this scenario as it would enable the soil to dry out on it's own preventing the water from stagnating.

i gotta say

i was just comparing some pics. these 2 pics are or have #2 in them.the pics were taken 10 days apart, the first is from today. it's hard to believe it's the same plant.

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