30 years since i was able to grow some weeds. i am now the proud parent of some beautiful girls.... : )( :

[Eledin]

And if you dont mind going bio-mineral instead of organic I recommend sensi ph perfect. Not only it will calibrate the ph for you (you still should check it but it helps) but it has everything your plant needs and with fast absorption. Also it doesnt kill microorganisms if you dont over use it unlike synthetic nutrients. The price is more or less the same as biobizz but instead of being organic or synthetic is bio-mineral and its more complete than biobizz. Part A is a calmag and part B is the NPK but both have chelated minerals, humic and fulvic acids, l-aminoacids and a couple more things besides the NPK (for sensi ph perfect).

 

[Eledin]

With sensi ph you get 2 bottles of 500ml which is 1 liter, you can go for bigger bottles if you want (the bigger the cheaper) since this one doesnt ferment.

Composition sensi grow​

Part A has an NPK ratio of 3-0-0

Component Analysis:

1. 3% Calcium
2. 3% Nitrogen Nitrate

It is made up of:

• Magnesium Nitrate
• Calcium nitrate
• Iron
• Iron amino-chelates
• Calcium Amino-chelates
• Magnesium amino-chelates
• Zinc
• Copper
• Zinc Amino-chelates
• Copper Amino-chelates
• Manganese
• Manganese amino-chelates
• Boron Amino-chelates
• Molybdenum Amino-chelates
• Cobalt amino-chelates
• L-Arginine
• L-Alanine
• L-Aspartic Acid
• L-Glutamine
• L-Cysteine
• L-Glutamic Acid
• L-Histidine
• L-Glycine
• L-Leucine
• L-Isoleucine
• L-Histidine
• L-Hydroxyproline
• L-Methionine
• L-Lysine
• L-Serine
• L-Proline
• L-Phenylalanine
• L-Methionine
• L-Threonine
• L-Valine
• L-Tyrosine
• L-Threonine
• L-Tryptophan
• Humic Acids
• Acidity regulator mixtures

As for part B the NPK ratio is 1-2-6

Component Analysis:

1. 6% Potassium
2. 2% Phosphate
3. 1.3% Sulfur
4. 1% Nitrogen
5. 0.03% Urea

It is made up of:

• Potassium Phosphate
• Potassium Nitrate
• Potassium Sulfate
• Nitrogen Amino-chelates
• Potassium amino-chelates
• L-Arginine
• L-Cysteine
• L-Aspartic Acid
• L-Glutamic Acid
• L-Glutamine
• L-Alanine
• L-Glycine
• L-Hydroxyproline
• L-Leucine
• L-Isoleucine
• L-Lysine
• L-Histidine
• L-Methionine
• L-Proline
• L-Phenylalanine
• L-Threonine
• L-Serine
• L-Tyrosine
• L-Valine
• L-Tryptophan
• Urea
• Exclusive blend of acidity regulators

Composition sensi bloom​

Part A has an NPK ratio of 3-0-0

Component analysis:

1. 3% Nitrogen
2. 2.1% Calcium
3. 0.8% Urea

It is made up of:

• Calcium nitrate
• Magnesium Nitrate
• Magnesium amino-chelates
• Iron
• Iron amino-chelates
• Manganese amino-chelates
• Zinc Amino-chelates
• Manganese, Zinc
• Copper
• Copper Amino-chelates
• Molybdenum Amino-chelates
• Cobalt amino-chelates
• Calcium Amino-chelates
• Urea
• L-Arginine
• L-Alanine
• L-cysteine
• L-Aspartic Acid
• L-glutamine
• L-Glutamic Acid
• L-hydroxyproline
• L-Glycine
• L-Histidine
• L-leucine
• L-isoleucine
• L-lysine
• L-proline
• L-Methionine
• L-serine
• L-Phenylalanine
• L-Tryptophan, L-Threonine
• L-tyrosine
• L-Valine
• Humic Acids
• Exclusive blends of plant-derived flowering cofactors

Part B has a slightly higher NPK ratio, to be exact it is 2-4-8

Component Analysis:

1. 8% Potassium
2. 4% Potassium
3. 2% Nitrogen
4. 0.4% Sulfur
5. 0.27% Urea

It is made up of:

• Monopotassium Phosphate
• Potassium Nitrate
• Potassium Sulfate
• Nitrogen Amino-chelates
• Potassium amino-chelates
• Urea
• L-Arginine
• L-Alanine
• L-Cysteine
• L-Aspartic Acid
• L-Glutamine
• L-Glycine
• L-Glutamic Acid
• L-Histidine
• L-Isoleucine
• L-Hydroxyproline
• L-Lysine
• L-Leucine
• L-Methionine
• L-Phenylalanine
• L-Serine
• L-Proline
• L-Valine
• L-Tyrosine
• L-Tryptophan
• L-Threonine
• Exclusive blend of plant-based flowering cofactors
• pH stabilizers
• Fulvic Acid

 

[Eledin]

If youre wondering what is the difference in between just minerals or chelated minerals;
Chelated minerals are bound to an organic molecule which ensures that it wont interact with other chemicals changing its chemical form in the short term and also are way more easy to absorb by the plant.

 

[JaBy]

At what distance is the light and what light did you have again? I see yellow tips which means that either the light is too close/bright or they had too much PK (if you didnt feed them its because of the compost I guess).
You need to buy nutrients if you want them to be happy, biobizz has a very cheap base for veg and bloom if you dont wanna spend much but still wanna go organic. You dont need to buy all the supplements, or any at all, but you need a base NPK liquid calibrated for weed. Most likely the PK burns, if its not the light, its due to lack of nitrogen as the leaves suggest. Rust spots are usually a mineral deficiency but I only see 1 so far, in number 2.

i have been adding the 7-5-7 organic fert to the soil to deter any lack of nutes. i also have some 4-6-5 organic fert. i have mixed all the soil i had with the composting material as well. i wouldn't say it isn't the light but i doubt it. the light is further away from the plants then they have ever been. during the 1st grow the light was within a couple inches from the top of the plants and it wasn't harming them. i'd guess the light is about a foot or two in order to allow for the light to spread out better. curious that the same thing hasn't affected the last 2 plants. from what i recall the only thing i did different for them was to mix in about a teaspoon of cinnamon into the soil for them. i didn't do this for #1 & #2. actually i have been altering what i do with #3 and the og by what i see with #1 & #2. when i saw that the first one i transplanted was too saturated in the dixie cup so i cut back greatly how much water i gave to the others. don't know if this was something that directly helped but so far the last 2 plants do appear much healthier. i wouldn't rule out a slight bit of extra moisture with #1 & #2 as i'm still guaging the bigger pots as to how, when and how much i water them so it's always possible for lingering issues to be at play.

i would like at some point perhaps to get a decent ph tester but not right now. i've seen some of the symptoms listed as potential issues but some seem to be contradictory as they could be either low or high ph depending on the particular symptom. as well as some could be caused by a lack of nutes and others could be from an overbundance of particular nutes.

good to know about the biobizz stuff. definitely something i'll consider at some point.

i've seen where the rust spots can appear. considering if it's lockout in some way, either ph or nute excess or deficiency. curious thing is both have different behaviors. #2 has what i would consider a even yellowing where #1 has what i would consider a blush yellowing where the green appears as a blush effect on the leaves affected. i'm also considering if the yellowing leaves might not be normal behavior for those particular plants.

 

[JaBy]

View attachment 2451665
View attachment 2451666
Very cheap, with 1 liter of each you have for several grows. Dont buy the big ones because they will ferment and while the plant can still absorb the nutrients the PH of your water will go down a lot if it ferments.

i love the fact that they are liquid. the ferts i got are all solid slow release. a liquid would make nutrient adjustments so much easier and the change in the plant would be seen so much quicker. now i feel i have to give them some time to see what happens when i try to add nutrients.

 

[JaBy]

And if you dont mind going bio-mineral instead of organic I recommend sensi ph perfect. Not only it will calibrate the ph for you (you still should check it but it helps) but it has everything your plant needs and with fast absorption. Also it doesnt kill microorganisms if you dont over use it unlike synthetic nutrients. The price is more or less the same as biobizz but instead of being organic or synthetic is bio-mineral and its more complete than biobizz. Part A is a calmag and part B is the NPK but both have chelated minerals, humic and fulvic acids, l-aminoacids and a couple more things besides the NPK (for sensi ph perfect).

very nice. definitely something i could look into. very good to know. is it liquid, i assume it is as to the fast absorbtion.

 

[JaBy]

With sensi ph you get 2 bottles of 500ml which is 1 liter, you can go for bigger bottles if you want (the bigger the cheaper) since this one doesnt ferment.
View attachment 2451674

View attachment 2451675

Composition sensi grow​

Part A has an NPK ratio of 3-0-0

Component Analysis:

1. 3% Calcium
2. 3% Nitrogen Nitrate

It is made up of:

• Magnesium Nitrate
• Calcium nitrate
• Iron
• Iron amino-chelates
• Calcium Amino-chelates
• Magnesium amino-chelates
• Zinc
• Copper
• Zinc Amino-chelates
• Copper Amino-chelates
• Manganese
• Manganese amino-chelates
• Boron Amino-chelates
• Molybdenum Amino-chelates
• Cobalt amino-chelates
• L-Arginine
• L-Alanine
• L-Aspartic Acid
• L-Glutamine
• L-Cysteine
• L-Glutamic Acid
• L-Histidine
• L-Glycine
• L-Leucine
• L-Isoleucine
• L-Histidine
• L-Hydroxyproline
• L-Methionine
• L-Lysine
• L-Serine
• L-Proline
• L-Phenylalanine
• L-Methionine
• L-Threonine
• L-Valine
• L-Tyrosine
• L-Threonine
• L-Tryptophan
• Humic Acids
• Acidity regulator mixtures

As for part B the NPK ratio is 1-2-6

Component Analysis:

1. 6% Potassium
2. 2% Phosphate
3. 1.3% Sulfur
4. 1% Nitrogen
5. 0.03% Urea

It is made up of:

• Potassium Phosphate
• Potassium Nitrate
• Potassium Sulfate
• Nitrogen Amino-chelates
• Potassium amino-chelates
• L-Arginine
• L-Cysteine
• L-Aspartic Acid
• L-Glutamic Acid
• L-Glutamine
• L-Alanine
• L-Glycine
• L-Hydroxyproline
• L-Leucine
• L-Isoleucine
• L-Lysine
• L-Histidine
• L-Methionine
• L-Proline
• L-Phenylalanine
• L-Threonine
• L-Serine
• L-Tyrosine
• L-Valine
• L-Tryptophan
• Urea
• Exclusive blend of acidity regulators

Composition sensi bloom​

Part A has an NPK ratio of 3-0-0

Component analysis:

1. 3% Nitrogen
2. 2.1% Calcium
3. 0.8% Urea

It is made up of:

• Calcium nitrate
• Magnesium Nitrate
• Magnesium amino-chelates
• Iron
• Iron amino-chelates
• Manganese amino-chelates
• Zinc Amino-chelates
• Manganese, Zinc
• Copper
• Copper Amino-chelates
• Molybdenum Amino-chelates
• Cobalt amino-chelates
• Calcium Amino-chelates
• Urea
• L-Arginine
• L-Alanine
• L-cysteine
• L-Aspartic Acid
• L-glutamine
• L-Glutamic Acid
• L-hydroxyproline
• L-Glycine
• L-Histidine
• L-leucine
• L-isoleucine
• L-lysine
• L-proline
• L-Methionine
• L-serine
• L-Phenylalanine
• L-Tryptophan, L-Threonine
• L-tyrosine
• L-Valine
• Humic Acids
• Exclusive blends of plant-derived flowering cofactors

Part B has a slightly higher NPK ratio, to be exact it is 2-4-8

Component Analysis:

1. 8% Potassium
2. 4% Potassium
3. 2% Nitrogen
4. 0.4% Sulfur
5. 0.27% Urea

It is made up of:

• Monopotassium Phosphate
• Potassium Nitrate
• Potassium Sulfate
• Nitrogen Amino-chelates
• Potassium amino-chelates
• Urea
• L-Arginine
• L-Alanine
• L-Cysteine
• L-Aspartic Acid
• L-Glutamine
• L-Glycine
• L-Glutamic Acid
• L-Histidine
• L-Isoleucine
• L-Hydroxyproline
• L-Lysine
• L-Leucine
• L-Methionine
• L-Phenylalanine
• L-Serine
• L-Proline
• L-Valine
• L-Tyrosine
• L-Tryptophan
• L-Threonine
• Exclusive blend of plant-based flowering cofactors
• pH stabilizers
• Fulvic Acid

quite impressive. if things go well here i might just check that out. i don't plan too far ahead most of the time as to how unstable these room rental situations can become. extra supplies and possessions are always potentially left behind if things aren't stable.

 

[JaBy]

If youre wondering what is the difference in between just minerals or chelated minerals;
Chelated minerals are bound to an organic molecule which ensures that it wont interact with other chemicals changing its chemical form in the short term and also are way more easy to absorb by the plant.

i like the part where it will promote a proper ph as well as nute levels. if things at some point suggest to me i'll be where i'm at for a while i'll very likely go for it. i'd have to reconsider what to do with the compost thing. i kind of like being able to compost things like coffee grounds as i feel it's such a waste to throw them out...... and given how much coffee i drink i get a lotta used grounds.

 

[JaBy]

With sensi ph you get 2 bottles of 500ml which is 1 liter, you can go for bigger bottles if you want (the bigger the cheaper) since this one doesnt ferment.
View attachment 2451674

View attachment 2451675

Composition sensi grow​

Part A has an NPK ratio of 3-0-0

Component Analysis:

1. 3% Calcium
2. 3% Nitrogen Nitrate

It is made up of:

• Magnesium Nitrate
• Calcium nitrate
• Iron
• Iron amino-chelates
• Calcium Amino-chelates
• Magnesium amino-chelates
• Zinc
• Copper
• Zinc Amino-chelates
• Copper Amino-chelates
• Manganese
• Manganese amino-chelates
• Boron Amino-chelates
• Molybdenum Amino-chelates
• Cobalt amino-chelates
• L-Arginine
• L-Alanine
• L-Aspartic Acid
• L-Glutamine
• L-Cysteine
• L-Glutamic Acid
• L-Histidine
• L-Glycine
• L-Leucine
• L-Isoleucine
• L-Histidine
• L-Hydroxyproline
• L-Methionine
• L-Lysine
• L-Serine
• L-Proline
• L-Phenylalanine
• L-Methionine
• L-Threonine
• L-Valine
• L-Tyrosine
• L-Threonine
• L-Tryptophan
• Humic Acids
• Acidity regulator mixtures

As for part B the NPK ratio is 1-2-6

Component Analysis:

1. 6% Potassium
2. 2% Phosphate
3. 1.3% Sulfur
4. 1% Nitrogen
5. 0.03% Urea

It is made up of:

• Potassium Phosphate
• Potassium Nitrate
• Potassium Sulfate
• Nitrogen Amino-chelates
• Potassium amino-chelates
• L-Arginine
• L-Cysteine
• L-Aspartic Acid
• L-Glutamic Acid
• L-Glutamine
• L-Alanine
• L-Glycine
• L-Hydroxyproline
• L-Leucine
• L-Isoleucine
• L-Lysine
• L-Histidine
• L-Methionine
• L-Proline
• L-Phenylalanine
• L-Threonine
• L-Serine
• L-Tyrosine
• L-Valine
• L-Tryptophan
• Urea
• Exclusive blend of acidity regulators

Composition sensi bloom​

Part A has an NPK ratio of 3-0-0

Component analysis:

1. 3% Nitrogen
2. 2.1% Calcium
3. 0.8% Urea

It is made up of:

• Calcium nitrate
• Magnesium Nitrate
• Magnesium amino-chelates
• Iron
• Iron amino-chelates
• Manganese amino-chelates
• Zinc Amino-chelates
• Manganese, Zinc
• Copper
• Copper Amino-chelates
• Molybdenum Amino-chelates
• Cobalt amino-chelates
• Calcium Amino-chelates
• Urea
• L-Arginine
• L-Alanine
• L-cysteine
• L-Aspartic Acid
• L-glutamine
• L-Glutamic Acid
• L-hydroxyproline
• L-Glycine
• L-Histidine
• L-leucine
• L-isoleucine
• L-lysine
• L-proline
• L-Methionine
• L-serine
• L-Phenylalanine
• L-Tryptophan, L-Threonine
• L-tyrosine
• L-Valine
• Humic Acids
• Exclusive blends of plant-derived flowering cofactors

Part B has a slightly higher NPK ratio, to be exact it is 2-4-8

Component Analysis:

1. 8% Potassium
2. 4% Potassium
3. 2% Nitrogen
4. 0.4% Sulfur
5. 0.27% Urea

It is made up of:

• Monopotassium Phosphate
• Potassium Nitrate
• Potassium Sulfate
• Nitrogen Amino-chelates
• Potassium amino-chelates
• Urea
• L-Arginine
• L-Alanine
• L-Cysteine
• L-Aspartic Acid
• L-Glutamine
• L-Glycine
• L-Glutamic Acid
• L-Histidine
• L-Isoleucine
• L-Hydroxyproline
• L-Lysine
• L-Leucine
• L-Methionine
• L-Phenylalanine
• L-Serine
• L-Proline
• L-Valine
• L-Tyrosine
• L-Tryptophan
• L-Threonine
• Exclusive blend of plant-based flowering cofactors
• pH stabilizers
• Fulvic Acid

can this be used in soil. from what i saw at their website it appears to be for hydro. that's a beautiful thing about hydro, liquid fertiliser. i haven't looked to see what is available for soil as i had grabbed what was available and hadn't planned on foliar feeds which i considered why i would have wanted a liquid in addition with the ferts i had picked up.

 

[JaBy]

And if you dont mind going bio-mineral instead of organic I recommend sensi ph perfect. Not only it will calibrate the ph for you (you still should check it but it helps) but it has everything your plant needs and with fast absorption. Also it doesnt kill microorganisms if you dont over use it unlike synthetic nutrients. The price is more or less the same as biobizz but instead of being organic or synthetic is bio-mineral and its more complete than biobizz. Part A is a calmag and part B is the NPK but both have chelated minerals, humic and fulvic acids, l-aminoacids and a couple more things besides the NPK (for sensi ph perfect).

ok i see what you mean about the bio mineral. that would be for a different growing medium. i would probably stick with soil so the biobizz would be more my speed.

 

[Eledin]

i have been adding the 7-5-7 organic fert to the soil to deter any lack of nutes. i also have some 4-6-5 organic fert. i have mixed all the soil i had with the composting material as well. i wouldn't say it isn't the light but i doubt it. the light is further away from the plants then they have ever been. during the 1st grow the light was within a couple inches from the top of the plants and it wasn't harming them. i'd guess the light is about a foot or two in order to allow for the light to spread out better. curious that the same thing hasn't affected the last 2 plants. from what i recall the only thing i did different for them was to mix in about a teaspoon of cinnamon into the soil for them. i didn't do this for #1 & #2. actually i have been altering what i do with #3 and the og by what i see with #1 & #2. when i saw that the first one i transplanted was too saturated in the dixie cup so i cut back greatly how much water i gave to the others. don't know if this was something that directly helped but so far the last 2 plants do appear much healthier. i wouldn't rule out a slight bit of extra moisture with #1 & #2 as i'm still guaging the bigger pots as to how, when and how much i water them so it's always possible for lingering issues to be at play.

i would like at some point perhaps to get a decent ph tester but not right now. i've seen some of the symptoms listed as potential issues but some seem to be contradictory as they could be either low or high ph depending on the particular symptom. as well as some could be caused by a lack of nutes and others could be from an overbundance of particular nutes.

good to know about the biobizz stuff. definitely something i'll consider at some point.

i've seen where the rust spots can appear. considering if it's lockout in some way, either ph or nute excess or deficiency. curious thing is both have different behaviors. #2 has what i would consider a even yellowing where #1 has what i would consider a blush yellowing where the green appears as a blush effect on the leaves affected. i'm also considering if the yellowing leaves might not be normal behavior for those particular plants.

Then its definetely too much food. All the tips seem to be burned, which indicates PK burn if its not the light which I doubt too since even the lower leaves have them. The yellowing on the edges might be the same reason. My conclussion after knowing all what you said is that the soil had more PK than N. The depleted leaves are the nitrogen deficiency while the ones that are yellowing on the edges can be either a deficiency or an excess. Potassium deficiency looks like that but it looks like the soil was too hot not too light so it could be overwatering or PH like you said. If youre feeding them with tap water you should get a PH meter because the PH can be waaay to high. The PH from my tap water is around 9, max recommended to avoid nute umbalance and unproper absorption is 7, thats way too much, my nutes help bring it down and I have some ph down in case I need it. Sometimes something I add is too acidic like iguana juice + big bud and I have to PH up a little bit so I dont burn them and again, to not cause nute umbalance due to unproper intake. I use the ph droplets kit from GH theyre a cheap fix if you cant afford a good PH meter. Without having the information on all important parameters its hard to diagnose what could be the problem. Overall theyre doing quite good I would say though, right? As long as the pale one doesnt keep getting more pale.

 

[Eledin]

ok i see what you mean about the bio mineral. that would be for a different growing medium. i would probably stick with soil so the biobizz would be more my speed.

Sensi ph perfect is for soil, Im confused as to what made you think its not for soil. They have the regular one for soil and the coco version aswell which I would guess if you wanna go hydro you would take the coco version. Coco tends to build more salts, specially if you dont water it properly, so my guess is that the coco version is addapted to deal with salts in coco while the regular version relies on the magnessium and sulfur like epsom salts to avoid salt build up in the soil.

 

[Eledin]

i love the fact that they are liquid. the ferts i got are all solid slow release. a liquid would make nutrient adjustments so much easier and the change in the plant would be seen so much quicker. now i feel i have to give them some time to see what happens when i try to add nutrients.

Exactly! Thats why I have both ammendments and liquid nutrients. I provide a solid well ammended soil but not too much, then I try to reach their maximum potential with liquids because with ammendments you have to wait and you cant adjust in time or if you use too much youre fucked but certainly a rich soil will make them grow bigger and thicker.

 

[Eledin]

i like the part where it will promote a proper ph as well as nute levels. if things at some point suggest to me i'll be where i'm at for a while i'll very likely go for it. i'd have to reconsider what to do with the compost thing. i kind of like being able to compost things like coffee grounds as i feel it's such a waste to throw them out...... and given how much coffee i drink i get a lotta used grounds.

I feel you, I started with kitchen scraps because I always wanna make use of what I have but unless you have a farm youre gonna need to buy some stuff to balance your compost and you still wont be able to use most of your coffee grounds because that would be way too much. I would suggest that you learn how to create a balanced compost if you wanna keep doing it and just put around 10% of the total volume of the pot from your compost. Maybe if you balance it properly you can go up to 20% but if youre going from seed I think its a bit over kill to go 20%. Maybe 20% for the new soil after the transplant.

 

[Eledin]

Also if you wanna ammend your soil you need to buy a light mix, make sure is a mix for seedlings. If you buy a soil that is meant to have food for them for weeks and you add more even if its only 10% of compost, it can make your early life plant difficult and they can get stunted and of course show burnt tips and even edges when it progresses.

 

[Eledin]

Dont you guys have ricycling bins in the US? Where I live they come pick up each kind of trash one day of the week and theyre marked with QR codes so if you start messing around and throwing organic material in the plastic bin youre gonna get a warning and if you keep doing it youre gonna get fined. I feel better throwing all the organic material in the organic bin, I know its gonna be used to make compost for fields to produce food instead of going to a garbage dump that will contaminate the soil and water.

 

[Eledin]

very nice. definitely something i could look into. very good to know. is it liquid, i assume it is as to the fast absorbtion.

Yes both biobizz and sensi ph are liquids and fit for soil, also as you say faster absorption so you feed more often and depending on what you see you decide if you should increase, decrease or stay at that dosage.

 

[Eledin]

can this be used in soil. from what i saw at their website it appears to be for hydro. that's a beautiful thing about hydro, liquid fertiliser. i haven't looked to see what is available for soil as i had grabbed what was available and hadn't planned on foliar feeds which i considered why i would have wanted a liquid in addition with the ferts i had picked up.

Ah I see why, they market it as designed for hydro but it works as good in soil, been using that line for years before swaping to full organic. Hell I always have sensi grow and bloom at hand in case I need to fix a deficiency quick but that doesnt happen often, thats because its absorved faster than organic liquids but organic liquids are still faster than organic ammendments.

 

[Eledin]

I would say that sensi ph perfect is superior to biobizz in terms of what it offers, slightly more expensive but not much. Athena is another line that is marketed for hydro but you can use in soil without any problem, its one of the best lines but its also expensive.
The major difference between biobizz and sensi ph perfect is that you dont need to flush with biobizz and you will get a more organic taste, to me it tastes more hashy and sometimes more earthy too, depends on the strain. But hey, not all the cannabis cup winners are grown organic, its a matter of preference. In terms of performance sensi ph wins, but if you wanna go organic you need to go for biobizz. There are other options too, I just chose the cheapest ones without sacrificing your plants needs.

 

[Eledin]

If you wanted to go for an organic liquid that includes all of what sensi ph perfect has to offer the price will increase because you will be needing to buy supplements or go for something more expensive like Iguana Juice which is 100% organic and besides the NPK it has a lot of goodies like the chelated minerals, aminoacids, calmag, vitamins, etc... and its the one I use to push my plants without having to buy a lot of supplements.