What am i doing wrong??!!

[JIMKSI64]

100% agree with Jim, your “soil” is a strange setup. Especially as “compost” could be almost anything (and normally mixed in at about 20% to forest humus and/or peat based soils).

That information should have been on the first entry. And we should have asked too

 

[Ninjadogma]

All in all your plants look pretty good from the pics, just want to say that.

Re: canoeing and stuff, yeah light or heat might be going on but usually with light too intense they will pray real hard too, an evolutionary response so the light energy hits the leaf at an angle where it can take in less... then you get the burnt tips that can't adjust to the energy. You're probably off by just a little, and if you use a light meter or a light meter phone app you can probably find that good ballpark distance to set your light. Temp and RH and circulation can all play hand in hand on making leaves canoe too as a response to the environment. Even if you can't fix it, the plant will live with it. Sometimes a little extra stress makes them throw a little extra resin or trichomes, some just don't have the ability.

Pieces of leaves getting messed with is a critter thing, not a bad idea any point of your grow to give the top a spritz of Captain Jack and the bottom a dose of Mosquito Dunk with your water every now and then if there's bugs around. Both stuff is natural, harmful to bugs but not people or plants. They're better as preventatives though. If you're in a jam you want a contact killer. Even insecticidal soap will get that job done in most cases. The age old advice is let thee soil dry back but I know how that goes, it's cool til it's time to water and then all the assholes come back around. That's where the Dunk and Jack come in.

 

[Ninjadogma]

All in all your plants look pretty good from the pics, just want to say that.

Re: canoeing and stuff, yeah light or heat might be going on but usually with light too intense they will pray real hard too, an evolutionary response so the light energy hits the leaf at an angle where it can take in less... then you get the burnt tips that can't adjust to the energy. You're probably off by just a little, and if you use a light meter or a light meter phone app you can probably find that good ballpark distance to set your light. Temp and RH and circulation can all play hand in hand on making leaves canoe too as a response to the environment. Even if you can't fix it, the plant will live with it. Sometimes a little extra stress makes them throw a little extra resin or trichomes, some just don't have the ability.

Pieces of leaves getting messed with is a critter thing, not a bad idea any point of your grow to give the top a spritz of Captain Jack and the bottom a dose of Mosquito Dunk with your water every now and then if there's bugs around. Both stuff is natural, harmful to bugs but not people or plants. They're better as preventatives though. If you're in a jam you want a contact killer. Even insecticidal soap will get that job done in most cases. The age old advice is let thee soil dry back but I know how that goes, it's cool til it's time to water and then all the assholes come back around. That's where the Dunk and Jack come in.

Just a follow up, went back and looked at photo maybe somebody already chimed in, might have had a leaf hopper sneak into your tent. Major a-holes, big leaf eaters, some of them kind of look like moths that don't fly very well when disturbed.

 

[YorkshireNewbie]

Are you using plant magic coco A+B in addition to another nutrient? You say 4ml of ? every watering, 4 ml of calmag, and also coco grow A+B. Am I understanding this right?

Yes, that's correct.

The coco A+B says they're base nutrients, and the info i could find online said it was advisable to use plant magic coco A+B alongside plant magic coco grow and then coco bloom.
I use calmag because that's what videos suggested.

 

[YorkshireNewbie]

All in all your plants look pretty good from the pics, just want to say that.

Re: canoeing and stuff, yeah light or heat might be going on but usually with light too intense they will pray real hard too, an evolutionary response so the light energy hits the leaf at an angle where it can take in less... then you get the burnt tips that can't adjust to the energy. You're probably off by just a little, and if you use a light meter or a light meter phone app you can probably find that good ballpark distance to set your light. Temp and RH and circulation can all play hand in hand on making leaves canoe too as a response to the environment. Even if you can't fix it, the plant will live with it. Sometimes a little extra stress makes them throw a little extra resin or trichomes, some just don't have the ability.

Pieces of leaves getting messed with is a critter thing, not a bad idea any point of your grow to give the top a spritz of Captain Jack and the bottom a dose of Mosquito Dunk with your water every now and then if there's bugs around. Both stuff is natural, harmful to bugs but not people or plants. They're better as preventatives though. If you're in a jam you want a contact killer. Even insecticidal soap will get that job done in most cases. The age old advice is let thee soil dry back but I know how that goes, it's cool til it's time to water and then all the assholes come back around. That's where the Dunk and Jack come in.

Mate, this comment was such a relief to read!
You basically addressed my major concerns and eased my mind big time.
Thats awesome.

 

[YorkshireNewbie]

100% agree with Jim, your “soil” is a strange setup. Especially as “compost” could be almost anything (and normally mixed in at about 20% to forest humus and/or peat based soils).

I fully agree.

When I started off with the seeds, I was absolutely brand new.
I didn't have any experience or knowledge, and its only now, after 6 weeks of desperately cramming new information about how to grow that I realise just how many fuck ups I've made.
I'll say this though, when I reported the plants, they all had a healthy root system.

My guiding thought as I set out on this journey was that its a weed and can grow in the roughest of places.
I underestimated massively the need to meet certain baseline requirements.

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

I didn't have any experience or knowledge, and its only now, after 6 weeks of desperately cramming new information about how to grow that I realise just how many fuck ups I've made.

Don't beat yourself up about that. I've lost track of all the mistakes I've made. That's partly because I like to experiment and learn new things about growing. What makes this a nice hobby is how much there is to learn. Even so, a newbie can still get a good crop. Just wait till you get your first harvest. The satisfaction makes it all worthwhile.

 

[mancorn]

Yes, that's correct.

The coco A+B says they're base nutrients, and the info i could find online said it was advisable to use plant magic coco A+B alongside plant magic coco grow and then coco bloom.
I use calmag because that's what videos suggested.

I know nothing about Plant Magic products, but sounds like you have 4 nutrient bottles, which sounds excessive. Coco is an inert growing medium - meaning it doesn't contain nutrients and won't readily release any into the growing environment. So when growers use coco they’re flooding the medium (normally several times a day) with nutrients, but these nutrients don’t stick around and instead drain away. So you need a constant supply.

However you can mix coco into other soil/compost (as it will help retain moisture, help with drainage and aeration). But in the later case the nutrients are going to bind to your soil/compost and hang around and can build up over time. My guess would be that the info you have from Plant Magic feed chart (?) is telling you how much to use for hydro or pure coco grows. You should look at manufacturers web site and make sure you’re following the recommended feed for soil, not coco.

 

[JIMKSI64]

I would also suggest using the 3 horizontal navigation bars top left to find the grow diaries section. When in this section use the spyglass to search for terms coco and soil.
Either follow a few successful diaries and see how they schedule nutes and flushes or weather they soak the coco to runoff with the nutes like most do. If the grower is active you can PM for a consult as most folks around here help one another.
Good luck

 

[Ninjadogma]

Mate, this comment was such a relief to read!
You basically addressed my major concerns and eased my mind big time.
Thats awesome.

Growing weed is supposed to be therapeutic, not a source of anxiety.

 

[RoadKillSkunkHunt]

I fully agree.

When I started off with the seeds, I was absolutely brand new.
I didn't have any experience or knowledge, and its only now, after 6 weeks of desperately cramming new information about how to grow that I realise just how many fuck ups I've made.
I'll say this though, when I reported the plants, they all had a healthy root system.

My guiding thought as I set out on this journey was that its a weed and can grow in the roughest of places.
I underestimated massively the need to meet certain baseline requirements.

Oh yes! When it comes to cannabis, that is so true. Anyone can grow a plant. Not everyone can grow craft level cannabis without a bit of trial and error.

For starters, the posts from the others who have been helping you are pretty much spot on so I won't spend a bunch of time adding to those thoughts. One thing I noticed though is your in COCO but from what I have been reading, you're "seeing it" as a soil mix. Its not. It's got completely different characteristics than potting soil. So, with that said, lets re-focus our thoughts and try to see it as a form of hydroponics. Essentially that is what it is since coco in its own has zero nutrients in it.

I caught in one of the posts above that you're watering every 3rd day. That would be something a soil grower might do (water every 3-4 days is common in soil). Coco typically gets watered daily. People use a light nutrient solution and feed their plants more often than a soil grower would. So basically in a nut shell, I think your whole grow (which does look pretty good so far despite the struggles) would benefit tremendously if you approached the grow as if you're in a hydroponic medium. Here's a few charts that hopefully will help you out.

This chart shows your pH range for your nutrient/water solution. This is important in coco. Most tap water will be outside of this accepted range so if you haven't been pH-ing your feed, you will want to start doing that.

This one here gives you an idea where your ppfd, DLI, VPD, grow room and leaf surface temperatures should be at different stages of the grow.

This chart gives you a visual for when your plants will be peaking on different nutrients throughout the grow. This should give you a visual reference to what is needed when.

Once again, your plants look pretty good so far! Keep us posted on how things are going.

 

[Grownsince95]

I think your plants look fantastic and you probably shouldn't change a thing. Zero reason to go back to 18/6.

Small amounts of stress like that are not always a bad thing. Sometimes it's the cost of doing business.

 

[YorkshireNewbie]

Just a quick update:

Last night I raised the tents internal fan as high as I can get it, so the plants aren't having wind blown directly at them, and I turned the extractor fan off.
The plants seemed a lot better this morning, and I shall investigate further when I get home from work.
If my hunch proves correct, then direct wind from the fan could be contributing greatly to the leaf curl.

Fingers crossed x

That would be an easy fix.

Have a great day folks.

 

[mancorn]

One thing I noticed though is your in COCO but from what I have been reading, you're "seeing it" as a soil mix.

OP has a mix of coco and compost, so not going to be able to water as a typical coco (as it’s not going to dry out with the compost). If it was me I’d up pot adding soil and try to nudge the grow towards “soil” instead of using coco techniques.

 

[Oldchucky]

I think this is a must read for Coco growers and the bunch that likes to mix mediums! A lot of information in there and some of those boys were pretty sharp back then! Just an FYI!

 

[Grownsince95]

I think this is a must read for Coco growers and the bunch that likes to mix mediums! A lot of information in there and some of those boys were pretty sharp back then! Just an FYI!View attachment 2477557

@Aquaman the legend

 

[Grownsince95]

I think this is a must read for Coco growers and the bunch that likes to mix mediums! A lot of information in there and some of those boys were pretty sharp back then! Just an FYI!View attachment 2477557

"Back then"..... you're hilarious @Oldchucky

 

[Oldchucky]

"Back then"..... you're hilarious @Oldchucky

Ouch! I can look back five years! But I can’t look forward more than a day! Ha ha!

 

[Racker]

Your vpd is on the high side. Plants look fine.
Reason for high vpd
1. High room temp
2. Low RH%
3. High radiation from light
4. Co2 level too high
5. Ec too high
6. Watering interval too long.
Skip al the above that is ok in your room and the reason for high vpd is what's left.

 

[YorkshireNewbie]

Your vpd is on the high side. Plants look fine.
Reason for high vpd
1. High room temp
2. Low RH%
3. High radiation from light
4. Co2 level too high
5. Ec too high
6. Watering interval too long.
Skip al the above that is ok in your room and the reason for high vpd is what's left.

This makes the most sense to me, given what I'm seeing with my plants.
Thank you.

Whenever I turn the extractor fan on, even on the lower setting, the plants curl up aggressively, and quickly, but I need to have it on, especially when the buds begin to grow (fingers crossed)
Ive got a dilemma on my hands unless I can find a way to fix it.

I live in apartments which were converted from commercials premises, and my only windows open into a courtyard with high walls on all four sides. Not much wind gets down here, and the fresh air gets blown over the top of the walls long before It reaches down to me, 50 yards below. Consequently i suspect the air is, as you identified, very dry.
Ive bought a duct booster fan, but only after buying it did I realise it only circulates half the amount of air as my extractor removes, so might have wasted my money there. Still, it wasn't a gmhugd expense so I can but the 5 inch model which is only about 20 cubic ft per hour less, and I hope the air flow in the tent will be almost neutral then.
I'm also going to try running some ducting from the inlet hole (and duct booster fan) right up to the window to get some better air, albeit not the best still.
I've got a humidifier going 24/7 and the plants do look a lot better after a couple of days with no extractor, however within minutes of me turning it back on to see what happens the leaves curl up quick.

I'll just keep trying different things to see what works.