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THE TRAINWRECK. Brought to you by thcfarrmer…..

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THE TRAINWRECK. Brought to you by thcfarrmer…..

by Captspaulding · Started
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Discussion below · 95,543 replies
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#78,581
🦣💨🤢🫢🤣

Hmmmm? Smells like ass...🤔😆
 

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#78,589
Ninjadogma said:
This one's worth sharing. Back in the early 90's wife and I watched Cape Fear right before bed. I had a bad dream. I was the family dog and some creep was threatening my family. I growled at him and he kicked at me, so I grabbed his foot with my jaws and bit down as hard as I could.

And my wife's side of that story is that I was having a bad dream, stirring and obviously really bothered. So she reached over, put her hand on my chest and tried to sooth me to calm me down when I abruptly put my face down and bit into her forearm with such force that I woke up to her screaming, "Ninja! Ninja!" and she had a deep bite mark.

Now dig this because this part is really curious. Several years later I was watching a documentary segment about parasomnia, which is erratic behaviors during sleep, sleepwalking and that kind of shit. The researcher was asked if there were any known triggers for parasomnia and I shit you not the guy said oddly there is a high occurrence of parasomnia events people have reported after watching a movie called Cape Fear.
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Two nights in a row someone mentioned a movie on here and I ended up watching it. But I won’t bite anyone in my sleep tonight, I think??
Although last night I got up for a drink of water and had to chose from a litany of cups, I think I chose wisely because my face didn’t melt.
 
#78,590
MartyMcFly42oh said:
New year eve 1996-97 I wake up at my friends house on a couch in the living room and witness a 300lb dude waking up from an alcoholic coma to urinate on the same couch they were sleeping on and then turned around and went back to sleep on the couch. I fortunately was on a different couch. Man did he have some explaining to do to his parents about that one. 🤣
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I remember one particular doozy I'd had back in 2015. So we were doing shots of premium aged rum too and popping pharma on top of
that and at one point during the night I guess I decided I wanted to smoke some weed so I broke into my overnight bag and grabbed my stash from the bag of toiletries I kept it in. When I woke up in the morning the pipe was sitting on my lap and it was filled with toothpaste. I have recollection of reaching for the weed that night. No recollection whatsoever as to what happened after that. 🤣
 
#78,591
Ninjadogma said:
The screenhouse was an answer to multiple issues... A layer of protection from the moths and butterflies; Rodent predation; Reduced PPFD with a shade cloth effect from the screen to better handle those 100+ degree days; and a local ordinance that requires outdoor cannabis to be kept in a "secure greenhouse."

That last feature, the secure part, really wont be complete until I put a floor base of some kind on it, because someone could just lift it up right now and grab a plant. I was thinking a galvanized "grill" type base for it, and when I do that I can put wheels on the bottom and then move it around like a cart anywhere I want to put it. From there I can then put in a single scrog net about a foot from the top and control it better for future runs and hopefully never worry about that vertical space again. What do yall think?
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What you’re building (at a glance)​


  • A 30"×30" plywood “deck” that bolts to a commercial can dolly.
  • A square EMT-conduit frame (84" tall) bolted to that deck.
  • Walls/roof skinned with welded wire mesh.
  • A full-height hinged door.
  • Three internal training levels (net or wire ring) at ~18", ~36", ~54".
  • Low-mounted ballast so it doesn’t tip when you roll it.

Example dolly spec (for sizing/loads): Rubbermaid BRUTE 2640 is ~18.2" diameter with a 250 lb continuous load rating and 5 casters. Many similar dollies exist (some claim 350–500 lb), but 250 lb is the conservative baseline. Rubbermaid Commercial ProductsGraybar
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Materials (Home-Depotable + Amazonable)​


Frame & base


  • 1" EMT conduit (10' sticks): 8 sticks (you’ll have extra).
  • Maker Pipe (or equivalent EMT clamp system)
    • 90° connectors: 8 (top corners + mid braces)
    • T-connectors: 8 (door frame & mid-rails)
    • Wall/“flange” mounts: 4 (to anchor corner posts to deck)
    • Hinge kit + latch kit: 1 each (or 2 stainless strap hinges + 1 spring latch).
  • 3/4" exterior plywood: 1 sheet, cut to 30"×30".
  • 1/4"×2" lag screws + washers: 16 (to mount flanges to deck).
  • 5/16"-18 through-bolts, fender washers, nyloc nuts: 5–8 (to bolt deck to dolly—see base notes).

Wire & training


  • Welded wire mesh, galvanized, 2"x4" grid, 14–16 ga, 36" wide rolls: ~40 ft total (walls + roof).
    (36" width lets you skin sides in two courses with a small overlap.)
  • Stainless zip ties or 14 ga galvanized wire: 100+.
  • Trellis net (elastic 3.5" squares) or 1/8" galvanized clothesline cable + turnbuckles for rigid “rings”.
  • (Optional) 1/8" aluminum flat bar (door edge stiffener) 72": 1.

Mobility & stability


  • Can dolly (round or square; locking casters preferred). If round, think BRUTE 2640-style. Rubbermaid Commercial Products
  • Ballast: two 25–35 lb sandbags (or two 12" concrete pavers) strapped low to the frame.
  • 4× rubber leveling feet or thin horse-stall mat scraps (to kill deck vibration/creep on the dolly).

Plant area


  • 16–20" plant saucer + risers.
  • 4× stainless eye bolts (deck corners) for LST tie-downs.


Cut list (EMT)​


  • Verticals (x4): 84"
  • Top square (x4): 30"
  • Mid-rails @ ~36" (x4): 30"
  • Door frame:
    • Hinge side vertical: 78"
    • Latch side vertical: 78"
    • Top/bottom rails: 24" each
      (Final door opening ≈ 24"W × 78"H inside a 30" bay; you keep 3" each side for posts/hardware.)

Tip: Deburr every cut. EMT loves to slice fingers worse than a deli slicer on Sunday.
Click to expand...


Build steps​


1) Make the rolling deck​


  1. Deck: Cut plywood 30"×30". Seal edges (poly or exterior paint).
  2. Locate dolly interface:
    • For a round BRUTE-style 18.2" dolly, center it under the deck. Mark 5–8 evenly spaced bolt locations on the dolly’s outer ring where material is thick.
    • Pilot drill the dolly with 3/16" (go slow—structural foam/plastic). Match-drill deck 5/16".
    • Through-bolt with 5/16" bolts + big fender washers top/bottom + nylocs. Do not overtighten (crush risk).
      (This is the most secure, lowest-profile method—no straps dragging near casters.) Rubbermaid Commercial Products (.com)
  3. Stick thin rubber pads between deck and dolly before tightening to kill slip/creak.

If you’re using a square 4-wheel base with a flat platform, through-bolt similarly at each corner rib.
Click to expand...

2) Stand the frame​


  1. Corner flanges: Layout 4 flange mounts on deck, inset 2" from each edge (gives 26" inside clear + wire skin thickness). Lag-screw them down.
  2. Install 4 vertical EMT posts (84") into the flanges.
  3. Top square: Use four 90° connectors to add 30" rails around the top, making a rigid cube.
  4. Mid-rails (~36" high): Add 30" rails on all four sides with T-connectors—this stiffens the frame and supports your mid trellis.

3) Door & latch​


  1. Use the front opening between posts for the door. Assemble a 24"×78" EMT rectangle with T’s & 90’s. Skin it with mesh (see below).
  2. Hinge the door to the left front post (hinge kit or two strap hinges around the EMT). Add a spring latch or cane-bolt on the right.

4) Skin it with wire​


  1. Walls: Wrap 36"-wide welded wire vertically. Each side is 84" tall, so run two courses (e.g., 48" + 40") with a 2" overlap at the middle rail. Tie every 4–6" along rails and posts.
  2. Roof: Cut a 30"×30" mesh panel and zip-tie to the top rails. This is your tie-up grid for colas.
  3. Door panel: Skin the door frame with mesh; fold edges and tie neatly. Add the aluminum flat bar along the latch side if you want extra stiffness.

5) Training levels & tie-downs​


  1. SCROG Level 1 @ ~18", Level 2 @ ~36", Level 3 @ ~54":
    • Fastest: stretch trellis net to the inside of the frame, zip-tie.
    • Cleanest: run 1/8" galvanized cable perimeter with corner eye-bolts + tiny turnbuckles and weave nylon line to make a rigid grid.
  2. Deck eye-bolts: Install one at each deck corner for low-stress LST ties.

6) Ballast & safety​


  1. Strap two 25–35 lb sandbags to the lower posts (front/back). This dramatically raises the tip threshold when rolling across thresholds or rough ground.
  2. If your dolly doesn’t have locking casters, wedge simple wheel chocks or add two lockable caster swaps.


Dimensions & clearances​


  • Overall: 30"×30"×84" (add ~1" for mesh).
  • Door: ~24"W × 78"H clear.
  • Dolly footprint: many round bases are ~18" Ø, so the deck overhangs ≈ 6" per side. That’s fine—ballast fixes the lever arm.


Load & stability reality check​


  • Wet 7–10 gal fabric pot: ~35–55 lb.
  • Frame + mesh + deck + hardware: ~45–65 lb.
  • Ballast (recommended): +50–70 lb.
  • Total rolling mass: ~130–190 lb ⇒ well inside a conservative 250 lb dolly rating. (If you buy a 350–500 lb unit, even more margin.) Rubbermaid Commercial ProductsShopAtDeanVevor

Rules of the road:


  • Move slow on flat floors. Don’t side-load curbs/thresholds; pull straight over.
  • Keep ballast low. If you hang stuff up high (fans, lights), add more ballast down low.
  • If it will live near a wall, consider a simple wall leash (light strap) as an anti-tip anchor.


Options & upgrades​


  • “No drill” variant: Build a 18–18.5" round plywood puck screwed under the deck that nests into a round dolly’s pocket, then use four 1" cam straps around the dolly’s perimeter and deck. It works, but through-bolts are cleaner and lower profile.
  • Unistrut version (heavier, bomb-proof): Swap EMT for 1-5/8" strut + corner gussets; bolt it straight to the deck. It’s overkill but glorious.
  • Removable panels: Split each side’s mesh into two panels and secure with shower-curtain snap rings. Panels lift off for grooming/defol.
  • Drain control: Line the deck under the saucer with a cut scrap of pond liner or a 30" spill tray.
  • Tool mounts: Magnetic strip or hose clamps on posts for snips, pH pen, etc.


Quick cost ballpark (very rough, US big-box)​


  • EMT + connectors + hinges/latch: $120–$200 (EMT is cheap; connectors drive this).
  • Mesh + ties/wire: $50–$90.
  • Plywood + bolts/lag screws/finish: $60–$100.
  • Dolly/base: $45–$120 depending on model/brand. The Home Depot
  • Ballast: $10–$30 (play sand) or free if you have pavers.

Call it $200
 
#78,593
MartyMcFly42oh said:
Two nights in a row someone mentioned a movie on here and I ended up watching it. But I won’t bite anyone in my sleep tonight, I think??
Although last night I got up for a drink of water and had to chose from a litany of cups, I think I chose wisely because my face didn’t melt.
Click to expand...

"The Man With One Red Shoe"
 
#78,595
closettrapper217 said:
Bahaha this whole time I thought you worked for Sherwin Williams lmao

Or really liked the smell of paint or something bahahahahahahah
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2006 or 7, at hippie camp, one genius decided to sit by a campfire and huff paint. A few others joined him and something happened to set all their faces on fire. It's kinda on the wall of shame for fucked up shit. In 30 years there's been like 4 fatalities maybe and one just took a nap in a hot tent in full sunlight.
The other 3 were real geniuses, eh? One of the paint kids, one guy forced a tank of nitrous onto an easy up and opened the valve all the way jammed in his mouth, and one put a car on shitty support in dirt on an incline.
 
#78,596
ChairmanFester said:
"The Man With One Red Shoe"
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I gotta break out of the 80’s and 90’s for a few movies, although I will probably watch that at some point. Tom Hanks was always worth the watch. Speaking of the 80-90’s most recent film I watched him in was Bonfire of the Vanities. Which turns out had no burning cabinets, not one.🤔
 
#78,597
ChairmanFester said:
The clown in IT (the book and 90s series STUPID MOVIES DON'T COUNT FUCK!) ripped Georgie's arm off because he couldn't get him into the drain fast enough to be unnoticed, as he is distracted while feeding and unable to use illusion magic.
Click to expand...

I think I tied the last couple of posts together nicely with that one ☝🏽 😉
 
#78,598
Captspaulding said:
I go pretty hard in the paint when it comes to supercropping my guy
I use it all the time for taking an unruly lanky plant and putting it back into my Lights footprint if it grows outside of optimum growing space or for the classic explosive growth type deal and I’m with you, bro when I learned it, I never stopped using it. it’s super handy to have in the tool kit I even have some tutorial videos on it that I made for people here
But I really do enjoy manipulating these plants and making them do whatever the fuck I want them to and that’s definitely one of the main ways to do it outside of LST
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I got Squirrley 🤣✌️💨

She is about two weeks into flower. We will see what happens .

Your videos are super helpful ✌️💨👊

IMG 7929
 
#78,599
You know what's real good is my AI asked why I have a big can air filter in my tent when I'm not filtering air for any reason. My reason is because it was in the box. But that's ok because my theoretical benefit of positive pressure is horse shit and I need minimal negative pressure visible in the fabric. I was unconvinced until a flick of the scroll wheel showed a diagram and math.
I don't have to believe AI if I believe math.
So I'll be disassembling a ton of shit again but that's ok because I can clean it all too, it's only been about a week since a major overhaul anyway. Guess I get to measure lights. AGAIN lol.
I think NL5 is going to retard flower at 22 days out of spite for root loss. Maybe not though. It's certainly an abused plant. Wouldn't be my tent if something completely fucked wasn't happening, I hope I'm a case study for smarter folk lol.
 
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