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Autoflower new growth is yellow

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Autoflower new growth is yellow

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Hello everyone
Ive got 2 do si dos autos in 15l pots with plagron growmix under a mars hydro ts1000.
Theyre at day 56 now and growth is slowing down from +3cm a day to about 1cm now.

Budsites are all clearly visible already and it had very vigorous growth during preflower
Ive noticed the newer growth all started becoming very light green and even borderline yellow. At first it were only the leaves all the way at the top that were newly forming but now its almost every young new leaf.
The older leaves at the bottom are still a rich dark green wich makes me think this isnt nitrogen deficiency since that usually starts at the lower leafs.

Ive used royal queen seeds growth and bloom tablets (brown and pink)
At day 33 when first stigmas showed i mixed half a growth tablet in 2l of water and divided it to both plants.
At day 50 I mixed 2x 1/4th of a bloom tablet in 2l of water so both plants got 1/4th of the tablet, maybe a bit more.

Does this look like some kind of deficiency?

Or is this normal since new growth exploded and the plant hasnt been able to fill up all of those leaves yet since it happened so fast?
 

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Hello everyone
Ive got 2 do si dos autos in 15l pots with plagron growmix under a mars hydro ts1000.
Theyre at day 56 now and growth is slowing down from +3cm a day to about 1cm now.

Budsites are all clearly visible already and it had very vigorous growth during preflower
Ive noticed the newer growth all started becoming very light green and even borderline yellow. At first it were only the leaves all the way at the top that were newly forming but now its almost every young new leaf.
The older leaves at the bottom are still a rich dark green wich makes me think this isnt nitrogen deficiency since that usually starts at the lower leafs.

Ive used royal queen seeds growth and bloom tablets (brown and pink)
At day 33 when first stigmas showed i mixed half a growth tablet in 2l of water and divided it to both plants.
At day 50 I mixed 2x 1/4th of a bloom tablet in 2l of water so both plants got 1/4th of the tablet, maybe a bit more.

Does this look like some kind of deficiency?

Or is this normal since new growth exploded and the plant hasnt been able to fill up all of those leaves yet since it happened so fast?
I’m going with that this is your new growth just coming up. I would give this new froth some time to fill in and green up a bit before you start mucking about with upping your nutes or anything too drastic.
 
I’m going with that this is your new growth just coming up. I would give this new froth some time to fill in and green up a bit before you start mucking about with upping your nutes or anything too drastic.
But some leaves are starting to show brown spots. First it was one or two but now its more.
These young leaves that are yellowish have been here for more than 3-4 days now so they shouldve turned regular green already

The plant next to it has more deeper green leaves but is starting to show alot of rusty spots.
 

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But some leaves are starting to show brown spots. First it was one or two but now its more.
These young leaves that are yellowish have been here for more than 3-4 days now so they shouldve turned regular green already

The plant next to it has more deeper green leaves but is starting to show alot of rusty spots.
What are your ppms measuring at in your water? How is your ph of your h2o? I notice some of these on plants as well, I usually just trim them off.
 
What are your ppms measuring at in your water? How is your ph of your h2o? I notice some of these on plants as well, I usually just trim them off.
I dont have a ppm or accurate PH tester.
I have test strips that show the runoff its between 6-7 closer to the side of 7.

If this is just something you can trim off i suppose it doesnt really impact yield that much?
 
I dont have a ppm or accurate PH tester.
I have test strips that show the runoff its between 6-7 closer to the side of 7.

If this is just something you can trim off i suppose it doesnt really impact yield that much?
I would continue to monitor any new growth. I would invest in a good ppm tester. I would also get your water ph down to at least 6. Getting more of a handle on your nute levels will help with your overall growth. What nutes are you using? Tap water or well water?
 
I would continue to monitor any new growth. I would invest in a good ppm tester. I would also get your water ph down to at least 6. Getting more of a handle on your nute levels will help with your overall growth. What nutes are you using? Tap water or well water?
I use cheap bottled spring water “christaline”.

I usually water them both with 2x2l bottles so they get 4l each untill some runoff.

On day 33 when first stigmas showed I mixed 1/2th of a royal queen seeds grow tablet (brown) into 2l of water and divided it over the two plants.
Then on day 50 I put 2x1/4th of a royal queen seeds bloom tablet (pink) in 2l of water and gave it to them both.
So per plant its 1/4th grow and 1/4th bloom tablet.

I fed very mild because theyre in 15l of plagron growmix wich is supposed to be pretty hot in terms of nutrients.

I dont have a crazy budget so should I get a good PH meter or PPM meter?
And I don’t know how to lower my PH to 6 accurately, I would think to put some vinegar in my water but that’s not very exact.
 
To me it looks like a classic Nitrogen fade. I am curious about the nutrition. Does it come with a feed chart? Does it recommend pH adjustment after mixing?
The idea that a product for use in this manner would tell you to cut tablets and such just seems unlikely but again never seen any grows with tablets.
 
To me it looks like a classic Nitrogen fade. I am curious about the nutrition. Does it come with a feed chart? Does it recommend pH adjustment after mixing?
The idea that a product for use in this manner would tell you to cut tablets and such just seems unlikely but again never seen any grows with tablets.
I thought nitrogen fades always showed first signs on older lower leaves and worked its way upwards?
In my case the lower old leaves are a good dark green.

I use tablets since their shelflife is way longer and I only grow 2 autos at a time.
I pasted a link to the site I got them from, I saw nothing about adjusting PH or anything.

 
I use cheap bottled spring water “christaline”.

I usually water them both with 2x2l bottles so they get 4l each untill some runoff.

On day 33 when first stigmas showed I mixed 1/2th of a royal queen seeds grow tablet (brown) into 2l of water and divided it over the two plants.
Then on day 50 I put 2x1/4th of a royal queen seeds bloom tablet (pink) in 2l of water and gave it to them both.
So per plant its 1/4th grow and 1/4th bloom tablet.

I fed very mild because theyre in 15l of plagron growmix wich is supposed to be pretty hot in terms of nutrients.

I dont have a crazy budget so should I get a good PH meter or PPM meter?
And I don’t know how to lower my PH to 6 accurately, I would think to put some vinegar in my water but that’s not very exact.
I would get a good ppm tester. You can use the ph test strips for your water, they are pretty cheap. Always go half of what manufacturers recommend on the nutes. You can always add more but you can take it away once it has been added.
 
I would get a good ppm tester. You can use the ph test strips for your water, they are pretty cheap. Always go half of what manufacturers recommend on the nutes. You can always add more but you can take it away once it has been added.
I just ordered a digital PH and EC/TDS tester.

About the leaves, does this look like a serious issue that might mess with my entire grow or just a minor aesthetic problem?

I havent grown enough to distinguish this from a real dangerous weedkilling problem lol
Ive put so much time in these plants and they turned out better than I ever expected so this leaf thing really breaks my heart
 
Howdy grower! Just doing a drive by on your post, impressed with that rapid 10 day growth. Plant just looks hungry to me, I think you're good. I presume you trust what you're feeding them has everything, but a couple things to note are the brown spots and general light color developing in some of the fans. So if upping the feeding you still see any of those brown spots developing, you could supplement with a little gypsum but always check compatibility of what you're adding and whether or not things have to be mixed in a certain order to avoid reactions that could block the nutrients. That pH is a bit high, it will grow okay where it's at but will do better with soil sitting around 6.2-6.5. Good luck and keep us posted with updated pics showing her happier and recovered and those buds starting to swell!
 
Howdy grower! Just doing a drive by on your post, impressed with that rapid 10 day growth. Plant just looks hungry to me, I think you're good. I presume you trust what you're feeding them has everything, but a couple things to note are the brown spots and general light color developing in some of the fans. So if upping the feeding you still see any of those brown spots developing, you could supplement with a little gypsum but always check compatibility of what you're adding and whether or not things have to be mixed in a certain order to avoid reactions that could block the nutrients. That pH is a bit high, it will grow okay where it's at but will do better with soil sitting around 6.2-6.5. Good luck and keep us posted with updated pics showing her happier and recovered and those buds starting to swell!
So since I watered regularly yesterday I should definitely feed next watering in 3-4 days?
Should i continue with the bloom tablets or mix 1/4th grow with 1/4th bloom in a bottle per plant?
 
I just ordered a digital PH and EC/TDS tester.

About the leaves, does this look like a serious issue that might mess with my entire grow or just a minor aesthetic problem?

I havent grown enough to distinguish this from a real dangerous weedkilling problem lol
Ive put so much time in these plants and they turned out better than I ever expected so this leaf thing really breaks my heart

Mostly esthetic where you're at and catching it early. I don't even see enough chlorophyll loss for you to drop a fan at this point. You'll be stuck staring at the minor damage when it recovers and it might write a fan or two off but the way you track recovery is healthy leaves not changing for the worse, not your sick leaves being repaired.
 
Mostly esthetic where you're at and catching it early. I don't even see enough chlorophyll loss for you to drop a fan at this point. You'll be stuck staring at the minor damage when it recovers and it might write a fan or two off but the way you track recovery is healthy leaves not changing for the worse, not your sick leaves being repaired.
Isnt the lack of chlorophyll a big issue since growth has slown down and there wont be much more new leaves forming?

I thought the chlorophyll that makes the leaves green was for the leaves to be able to take up light, so doesnt that mean those yellow/light green leaves arent doing anything?
 
Here’s some more pictures of both plants.

As you can clearly see the greener one’s internodes are much closer together so its much shorter and the canopy is more even.
The leaves on top are more dark green but it has more rusty spots.

On the right is the plant that stretched more, it has more long branches and spaced apart budsites but the yellowing leaves with some developing brown spots. Only the bottom older leaves are the right colour that’s why I didnt think it was nitrogen depletion
 

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So since I watered regularly yesterday I should definitely feed next watering in 3-4 days?
Should i continue with the bloom tablets or mix 1/4th grow with 1/4th bloom in a bottle per plant?

Yeah that one always frustrates me when I miss an opportunity for a feeding and the problem with dry amends, tablets and spikes is they all take TIME to work. It's a great way to grow once you get it dialed in, the drys tend to be much more forgiving with over feeding but you have to time your amends right so you have the availability waiting when they need it. You don't really get to do fixes on the fly with dry nutes, it's more like steering a very large ship that moves very slowly and you have to begin your turns well in advance of coming upon them.
 
Yeah that one always frustrates me when I miss an opportunity for a feeding and the problem with dry amends, tablets and spikes is they all take TIME to work. It's a great way to grow once you get it dialed in, the drys tend to be much more forgiving with over feeding but you have to time your amends right so you have the availability waiting when they need it. You don't really get to do fixes on the fly with dry nutes, it's more like steering a very large ship that moves very slowly and you have to begin your turns well in advance of coming upon them.
I thought they were mineral nutrients that are instantly available to the plants since they don’t have to be converted by the microbes anymore?

Thats the reason ive been watering untill 20% runoff
 
The first grow of a strain is where you learn the nutritional needs and the light limits for the specific plant. I am on my 3rd grow on my specific Apple Fritter and the first 3 plants got amended differently and I figured this out
You are correct that nitrogen is a mobile nutrient and that a fade would normally rob lowers. I have no answer for that. I have looked at the nutrients and as I suspected you are not using it to the feed chart. There is also a huge hole in nitrogen in the bloom tab and a complete lack of phosphorus in the grow tab. In addition this appears to be a chemical nutrient system that is readily available to the plant but as always that is dependant on a proper pH environment.
2 ways to get sideways on chemical nutes. Overuse can cause a lockout. pH out of range for uptake.

Any chance we had a bout of overwatering for a week or 2 in the history of the grow? Wet feet syndrome would explain this.

Chemical ferts in soil work fine but they have rules to follow. Normally a grower checks the incoming EC and the outgoing EC for trends when things go wrong. It will indicate a plant eating or a plant in lockout. When testing the outflow for EC is when you check your pot pH.
Lots of guys run chemicals at feed chart specs and never check anything and never have a problem. I is not one of those guys as I run organic top dress and ferts.
Good luck.
Went back to post the NPK and it looks like RQS translation of the page from German to English is hosed. I found it the first time I linked but the second time it went all German and dropped the information.
 
The first grow of a strain is where you learn the nutritional needs and the light limits for the specific plant. I am on my 3rd grow on my specific Apple Fritter and the first 3 plants got amended differently and I figured this out
You are correct that nitrogen is a mobile nutrient and that a fade would normally rob lowers. I have no answer for that. I have looked at the nutrients and as I suspected you are not using it to the feed chart. There is also a huge hole in nitrogen in the bloom tab and a complete lack of phosphorus in the grow tab. In addition this appears to be a chemical nutrient system that is readily available to the plant but as always that is dependant on a proper pH environment.
2 ways to get sideways on chemical nutes. Overuse can cause a lockout. pH out of range for uptake.

Any chance we had a bout of overwatering for a week or 2 in the history of the grow? Wet feet syndrome would explain this.

Chemical ferts in soil work fine but they have rules to follow. Normally a grower checks the incoming EC and the outgoing EC for trends when things go wrong. It will indicate a plant eating or a plant in lockout. When testing the outflow for EC is when you check your pot pH.
Lots of guys run chemicals at feed chart specs and never check anything and never have a problem. I is not one of those guys as I run organic top dress and ferts.
Good luck.
Went back to post the NPK and it looks like RQS translation of the page from German to English is hosed. I found it the first time I linked but the second time it went all German and dropped the information.
Thanks for looking into it!

No there wasnt really an overwatering issue this grow, I messed up my first indoor grow by overwatering and I was very careful this time. I let the soil dry out untill the leaves started slightly wilting to make sure the pots had a wet/dry cycle.

So would it be a solution for my next watering in 3-4 days to just add 1/4th of both tablets into 4l of water for each plant?

I ordered a PH and EC/TDS testers so I should be able to measure the EC of the nutrient solutions before I water and then check the runoff PH and EC together to see whats going on in the pots.

The only thing im stuck at is if combining those 2 tablets in small dosages would fix it.

For now I turned my light to 75% to slow down the plants need for nutrients
 
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