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Cpurola's first indoor grow, alot to learn.

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Cpurola's first indoor grow, alot to learn.

cpurola 1,795 Replies 118,417 Views
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Your light most likely had a par map in the tech specs. It will usually give a ppfd and a distance.
It is important to proof your tool against the manufacturers listed power specs.
Seconded! Bravo! 👏👏
 
Wow.
I love growing FOOD outdoors.
Cannabis not so much.
Wrong area for pot. To much large scale agriculture nearby that can effect my food and I am sure it would effect cannabis plants.
And the unsure nature of September. Could be 78 could be 28.
Can always water the plants but can not turn off the late fall rains that happen and sometimes wiped out my corn and beans.
Pot outside.
Although the pondmatics grow would be fun. Float a couple of barrels with a top a basic 12v panel and a pump.
Wonder how a 390ppm with a respectable nitrogen load from ag run off would do in a constant circulation hydro grow.
Floating in the middle of my pond.
 
I had posted this before but will share here too. And over at autoflower.org there are several fantastic grows going with a lower DLI than what is usually seen in most forum responses.

Cannabis Science and Technology
January/February 2024 Volume7 Issue 1
Pages: 14-17
Cornell University Research on Hemp Responses to Light Treatments, Part 1
www.cannabissciencetech.com

"Traditionally, it is recommended to provide 30-40 mol·m-2·d-1 daily light integral (DLI) making this a higher light requiring crop than tomatoes or other fruiting crops. Some information is available in the literature for photoperiodic (such as how short days induce flowering) cannabis. For example, Rodriguez-Morrison, et al. (2021) reported linear increases in flower dry yield as the DLI increased from 8.6 to 77.8 mol·m-2·d-1. Across this broad DLI range a 0.5% increase in yield was reported for every 1% increase in DLI. Amazingly, cannabis responded positively to more light than is provided by the sun on a sunny day in the middle of summer (maximum possible DLI of 65 mol·m-2·d-1). As opposed to typically grown photoperiodic cannabis, autoflowering cannabis cultivars are seed-propagated and do not require short days to flower (photoperiod insensitive). No information is available in the scientific literature on the response of autoflowering cannabis to DLI.
Results:
When cultivars were grouped together, optimum flower dry weight was reached at 20 mol·m-2·d-1 and did not further increase at higher DLIs. Individual cultivar responses were not statistically significant but exhibited patterns of optimal DLI for yield at 20 mol·m-2·d-1 for AutoCBD and Pipeline and 30 mol·m-2·d-1 for Maverick.
DLI did not significantly impact the percentage of CBD or THC. However, for both cannabinoids there was a pattern for Maverick that increasing DLI led to an increase in CBD/THC, for example, CBD increased from 7.5 to 10% as DLI increased from 15 to 30 mol·m-2·d-1.
The Cornell researchers found that DLI responses of autoflowering CBD hemp are cultivar specific. Some cultivars (such as AutoCBD and Pipeline) appear to have lower DLI requirements than other cultivars (such as Maverick). In general, these autoflowering (non-photoperiodic) cultivars seem to have lower DLI requirements than photoperiodic hemp, though further research is required to study additional cultivars (especially directly comparing autoflowering to photoperiodic), as well as across a wider range of DLIs.
 
I had posted this before but will share here too. And over at autoflower.org there are several fantastic grows going with a lower DLI than what is usually seen in most forum responses.

Cannabis Science and Technology
January/February 2024 Volume7 Issue 1
Pages: 14-17
Cornell University Research on Hemp Responses to Light Treatments, Part 1
www.cannabissciencetech.com

"Traditionally, it is recommended to provide 30-40 mol·m-2·d-1 daily light integral (DLI) making this a higher light requiring crop than tomatoes or other fruiting crops. Some information is available in the literature for photoperiodic (such as how short days induce flowering) cannabis. For example, Rodriguez-Morrison, et al. (2021) reported linear increases in flower dry yield as the DLI increased from 8.6 to 77.8 mol·m-2·d-1. Across this broad DLI range a 0.5% increase in yield was reported for every 1% increase in DLI. Amazingly, cannabis responded positively to more light than is provided by the sun on a sunny day in the middle of summer (maximum possible DLI of 65 mol·m-2·d-1). As opposed to typically grown photoperiodic cannabis, autoflowering cannabis cultivars are seed-propagated and do not require short days to flower (photoperiod insensitive). No information is available in the scientific literature on the response of autoflowering cannabis to DLI.
Results:
When cultivars were grouped together, optimum flower dry weight was reached at 20 mol·m-2·d-1 and did not further increase at higher DLIs. Individual cultivar responses were not statistically significant but exhibited patterns of optimal DLI for yield at 20 mol·m-2·d-1 for AutoCBD and Pipeline and 30 mol·m-2·d-1 for Maverick.
DLI did not significantly impact the percentage of CBD or THC. However, for both cannabinoids there was a pattern for Maverick that increasing DLI led to an increase in CBD/THC, for example, CBD increased from 7.5 to 10% as DLI increased from 15 to 30 mol·m-2·d-1.
The Cornell researchers found that DLI responses of autoflowering CBD hemp are cultivar specific. Some cultivars (such as AutoCBD and Pipeline) appear to have lower DLI requirements than other cultivars (such as Maverick). In general, these autoflowering (non-photoperiodic) cultivars seem to have lower DLI requirements than photoperiodic hemp, though further research is required to study additional cultivars (especially directly comparing autoflowering to photoperiodic), as well as across a wider range of DLIs.
You have to remember that the autoflower is crossed with a photoperiod plant, the ruderalis is bred into the plant, making the dli per strain different for each strain. And there are a lot of variables to the utilizing more light intake into the plant.
 
Wow.
I love growing FOOD outdoors.
Cannabis not so much.
Wrong area for pot. To much large scale agriculture nearby that can effect my food and I am sure it would effect cannabis plants.
And the unsure nature of September. Could be 78 could be 28.
Can always water the plants but can not turn off the late fall rains that happen and sometimes wiped out my corn and beans.
Pot outside.
Although the pondmatics grow would be fun. Float a couple of barrels with a top a basic 12v panel and a pump.
Wonder how a 390ppm with a respectable nitrogen load from ag run off would do in a constant circulation hydro grow.
Floating in the middle of my pond.
Life is full of “ifs” . I find the whole indoor thing pretty cool, just not my cool. It’s like you cats are building a rocket ship, I just wanna drive around town!
 
Life is full of “ifs” . I find the whole indoor thing pretty cool, just not my cool. It’s like you cats are building a rocket ship, I just wanna drive around town!
But to drive you need to understand how the vehicle works, to race you start getting into physics and getting a feel for it as well as knowing your car top to bottom
 
One must consider a grower's reason for growing. If I were a commercial grower, I probably would think about statistics like grams per watt. I'm not a commercial grower, however, so I just try to grow healthy plants.
 
Cpurola.
A recommendation I have taken right out of my grow diaries.
Your light most likely had a par map in the tech specs. It will usually give a ppfd and a distance.
It is important to proof your tool against the manufacturers listed power specs. The reason I do this is to ensure the reading is as correct as I can.
The other reason is the last pic you have up shows a plant that should be at prolly 350-450 ppfd and if not would be a stretchy little plant asking for more light.
It is not leading me to believe your light is set properly and your tool is off.
Jmo.
I have turned down the light several times the last 2 weeks, thinking it was frying the leaves, when actually I was not giving them enough water.
I found the PAR map of the light and downloaded the Photone app. The Photone reads about 50 higher than the meter.
The plants are looking better and I moved them to a window for pics.

First is top down, then side, then closeup.

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I have turned down the light several times the last 2 weeks, thinking it was frying the leaves, when actually I was not giving them enough water.
I found the PAR map of the light and downloaded the Photone app. The Photone reads about 50 higher than the meter.
The plants are looking better and I moved them to a window for pics.

First is top down, then side, then closeup.

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Next
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They are looking a lot happier, and you can tell just in that short time in the difference from before
 
One must consider a grower's reason for growing. If I were a commercial grower, I probably would think about statistics like grams per watt. I'm not a commercial grower, however, so I just try to grow healthy plants.
Its not about commercial, lol. Commercial has so many different ways of growing. The knowledge that I have comes from the medical days, when you were trying to get top shelf product
 
It was only an example of a reason for growing and wasn't directed toward anyone in particular.
I didn't think it was 🙂 I was just going off of experience of why I took the time to learn these things. I did grow back in the day for a co-op, but things change over time, like you said it really depends on the reason for growing. I have fun playing with genetics these days and just running test on certain strains, gathering information on how far I can push my strains that I have produced, to see if they are worth putting in rotation for my main flower room. But I have to also make sure they will fall into a similar nutrient schedule I have for the other plants
 
You have to remember
I have to...now you might be asking a lot of me. 😉
that the autoflower is crossed with a photoperiod plant, the ruderalis is bred into the plant, making the dli per strain different for each strain. And there are a lot of variables to the utilizing more light intake into the plant.
I am well aware but thanks for reminding me. I do believe they point that out but speaking generally they did not show a significant amount of difference between those strains they included. Would that result hold utilizing other strains....maybe or maybe not. Questions to be answered. Perhaps they will.

Now of course what you personally could do is run some tests of your own. Duplicate it over several runs with varying strains and varying DLI amounts and see. Start your own thread on it and I would follow it.👍
 
I have to...now you might be asking a lot of me. 😉

I am well aware but thanks for reminding me. I do believe they point that out but speaking generally they did not show a significant amount of difference between those strains they included. Would that result hold utilizing other strains....maybe or maybe not. Questions to be answered. Perhaps they will.

Now of course what you personally could do is run some tests of your own. Duplicate it over several runs with varying strains and varying DLI amounts and see. Start your own thread on it and I would follow it.👍
Yeah I don't do autos for indoors, it's not worth me switching from a rotational setup to growing everything from seed. I do post things, just not often. I don't have a reason to post anything other than the genetics I am working on and how they are growing. Doing genetic crossing while trying to produce enough flower to supply my half sized snoop dogg habit.
 
No you don't.
So you don't know how to start it, bypass the safety for engaging it into drive by pressing the brake? And then using the gas to go forward? It's a basic know how to how something works 😉 again not here to argue lol just to watch a person improve as they grow
 
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