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Cpurola's first indoor grow, alot to learn.

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Cpurola's first indoor grow, alot to learn.

cpurola 1,795 Replies 118,417 Views
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I don't really think anyones ego is offended, more or so different understandings and communication through Internet threads is very open to how things sound, no one's trying to start anything on @cpurola thread, we all are here to share information, sometimes you read things and interpret an attitude, and I'm sure we all can be a d!Β’k or an @$$hole every here and there, part of life. And no one tried to say you are wrong on the information you posted, @grayoldnproud I'm not here to put you down in any way or to start some petty bs, I'm sure there is a thing or two you know that I don't, either way, if @cpurola is having a good time and learning from her peers here, that's what matters πŸ‘πŸΌπŸ˜
 
Thanks Cpurrrr! I don’t wear them either! I used to all the time! Got tired of banging my melon on low hanging objects hidden by the bill! Decided it was less painful to just get a haircut and shit can the caps! Now, to start dwelling on some retaliation!πŸ˜ˆπŸ˜‚βœŒοΈ
Don't you dare..... LOL
 
For example were these students experienced growers and experienced with autoflowers? Did they only have 3 control and 3 variable plants?
Dr. Mattson is a well respected plant physiologist and of course students did the grunt work but Mattson signed off on it. This isn't slooch science. Methodology was very sound.

Method

The experiment used Cornell’s Light and Shade System Implementation (LASSI) lighting control algorithm (3) in four adjacent glass greenhouses at Cornell University in Ithaca, New York to grow three autoflowering hemp cultivars under DLI treatments of 15, 20, 25, and 30 molΒ·m-2Β·d-1 (see Figure 1). Seeds of autoflowering cultivars AutoCBD (supplier, Phylos), Maverick (supplier, Kayagene) and Pipeline (supplier, Kayagene) were germinated in moist paper towels on July 18, 2021. Two days later on July 20, seeds of each cultivar were planted in two-gallon containers with a peat-perlite substrate (Lambert LM-111) and placed into one of four greenhouse sections. A quantum sensor placed in the center of each greenhouse measured light intensity and was used by LASSI to make supplemental lighting and shade decisions to reach the greenhouse DLI targets. The experiment was arranged as a randomized complete block design with plants arranged in six blocks (each with one plant of each cultivar), in each of the four greenhouses. During the experimental period, plants were drip irrigated as needed with a fertilizer prepared from Jack’s 5-12-26 (JR Peters) and Calcium Nitrate 15.5-0-0 (Yara). Nutrient solution pH was maintained at 5.5–5.8 and electrical conductivity (EC) was maintained at 2.0 dS/m. Plants were harvested 84 days after seeding, air dried for 10 days, and flowers were separated from leaves and stems. Cannabinoid content of the apical meristem was analyzed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).
 
Glad we moved on from points and condensers. Can we go back to grow subjects now? Lol
Be my guest, please.
Oh, wait, that's MY cue. LOL

I believe I may have given my plants a case of mild LED burn.
They have been on level 4 for a few days and after being fed properly looked pretty good.
This afternoon I needed to check the light's power with a meter and turned it up to 10 for all of 20 mins. Now I'm noticing the top most leaves on one plant are much lighter than they were, and there are brown spots where there weren't before.
Another DUH moment. : /
 
Be my guest, please.
Oh, wait, that's MY cue. LOL

I believe I may have given my plants a case of mild LED burn.
They have been on level 4 for a few days and after being fed properly looked pretty good.
This afternoon I needed to check the light's power with a meter and turned it up to 10 for all of 20 mins. Now I'm noticing the top most leaves on one plant are much lighter than they were, and there are brown spots where there weren't before.
Another DUH moment. : /
Bright light will interfere with photosynthesis. In particular, gas exchange. It is not recommended to increase the brightness if the temperature and humidity cannot be controlled. It is optimal to find average values in the root zone that will allow you to work in any conditions. This way, the plant will not suffer from temperatures ranging from -4Β°C to +50Β°C, and humidity will not play a crucial role. This is a transformable environment where a balance is achieved.
 
Be my guest, please.
Oh, wait, that's MY cue. LOL

I believe I may have given my plants a case of mild LED burn.
They have been on level 4 for a few days and after being fed properly looked pretty good.
This afternoon I needed to check the light's power with a meter and turned it up to 10 for all of 20 mins. Now I'm noticing the top most leaves on one plant are much lighter than they were, and there are brown spots where there weren't before.
Another DUH moment. : /
does it look like this?

 
Be my guest, please.
Oh, wait, that's MY cue. LOL

I believe I may have given my plants a case of mild LED burn.
They have been on level 4 for a few days and after being fed properly looked pretty good.
This afternoon I needed to check the light's power with a meter and turned it up to 10 for all of 20 mins. Now I'm noticing the top most leaves on one plant are much lighter than they were, and there are brown spots where there weren't before.
Another DUH moment. : /
maybe this?

 
does it look like this?

Yes, as a matter of fact it does.
Stupid phone made it yellow, but the leaf is very pale yellow.

20251202 203152
 
Ive played with my lights for short periods without causing damage. I dont have scientific sources to back me but i dont think 20-30 mins would do damage that quickly.
Yes, as a matter of fact it does.View attachment 2572461
there you go. heres the link with many problems and fixes.

 
Yes, as a matter of fact it does.
Stupid phone made it yellow, but the leaf is very pale yellow.

View attachment 2572461
I also think that we should pay attention to the basic interactions. Nitrogen-potassium. Because we can calculate all the ratios based on the nitrogen level. Potassium acts as a balance for nitrogen absorption. When it's cold outside, it's preferable to choose a 1:1 ratio that matches the growing season. However, in indoor conditions, the opposite is true. Controlling the amount of rainfall is crucial. This means that we can provide you with maximum doses of sulfur and potassium. It's a bit confusing. But the relationship is as follows: temperature - solubility - concentration. Temperature is nitrogen, and the higher the temperature, the more potassium is required. Sulfur solubility is temperature, and the higher the temperature, the less potassium is required. Concentration is calcium, and the hotter it is, the less total salt is required, including calcium. However, it is always important to rely on nitrogen-potassium. It can be confusing, which is why I always recommend testing my solution.🀭With any amount of light.🀣In this case, the following ratio will be crucial. The colder it is, the less light is required. The hotter it is, the more light is required. However, in cold weather, there is a risk of over-illumination and excessive watering. However, this does not occur in a home environment.It may be cold in the tundra, but there is little precipitation, so I think it works even in the tundra.πŸ’ŠπŸ’‰Excessive watering can also have a negative impact in conditions of high humidity. However, we can control it in our homes. And water less often than usual.
 
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I also think that we should pay attention to the basic interactions. Nitrogen-potassium. Because we can calculate all the ratios based on the nitrogen level. Potassium acts as a balance for nitrogen absorption. When it's cold outside, it's preferable to choose a 1:1 ratio that matches the growing season. However, in indoor conditions, the opposite is true. Controlling the amount of rainfall is crucial. This means that we can provide you with maximum doses of sulfur and potassium. It's a bit confusing. But the relationship is as follows: temperature - solubility - concentration. Temperature is nitrogen, and the higher the temperature, the more potassium is required. Sulfur solubility is temperature, and the higher the temperature, the less potassium is required. Concentration is calcium, and the hotter it is, the less total salt is required, including calcium. However, it is always important to rely on nitrogen-potassium. It can be confusing, which is why I always recommend testing my solution.🀭With any amount of light.🀣In this case, the following ratio will be crucial. The colder it is, the less light is required. The hotter it is, the more light is required. However, in cold weather, there is a risk of over-illumination and excessive watering. However, this does not occur in a home environment.It may be cold in the tundra, but there is little precipitation, so I think it works even in the tundra.πŸ’ŠπŸ’‰Excessive watering can also have a negative impact in conditions of high humidity. However, we can control it in our homes. And water less often than usual.
Thank you, I will try to understand all that tomorrow. When I'm not so floaty. LOL
 
To many cooks in the kitchen spoil the broth πŸ˜‚πŸ‘ as much as people like to think u need a phd to grow weed it’s really not that complicated air water food simples the simpler you keep it the less u mess with em the better they grow I reckon u should try coco/perlite for indoor easy peasy feed n watch em grow way less trouble than soil I reckon no over watering problems it’s just easy In saying that they looking way better @cpurola hope your enjoying the process cause that’s what it’s all about growing is funπŸ˜‚πŸ‘
 
To many cooks in the kitchen spoil the broth πŸ˜‚πŸ‘ as much as people like to think u need a phd to grow weed it’s really not that complicated air water food simples the simpler you keep it the less u mess with em the better they grow I reckon u should try coco/perlite for indoor easy peasy feed n watch em grow way less trouble than soil I reckon no over watering problems it’s just easy In saying that they looking way better @cpurola hope your enjoying the process cause that’s what it’s all about growing is funπŸ˜‚πŸ‘
Yes, this is true, but you'll agree that it's convenient to control only the watering schedule. This applies to both hot and cold weather. However, if you feel that watering is too infrequent during cold weather, you can reduce the amount of sulfur and potassium. Similarly, if you find that watering is too frequent during hot weather, you can reduce the amount of calcium. This is simply a matter of convenience.
 
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