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LEDs causing magnesium like issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tattooguy8
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LEDs causing magnesium like issues

Tattooguy8 202 Replies 9,228 Views
Page 2 of 11 · Replies 21–40 of 203
#21
Tattooguy8 said:
The most confusing part of this is if I put these girls in the flowering room with almost identical parameters they perk right up. Not perfect but respectable looking plants. I go from struggling at 200 ppfd to 600 ppfd.

Someone mentioned earlier root ball temps. I guess that’s the only thing I haven’t played with. Should I be heating the root balls directly? Sounds pretty crazy to me.
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whats the exact differences in the rooms? Vpd could be a bit high for veg if your hitting 55 rh%.

Tattooguy8 said:
I decided to break open the root ball and most of the roots were growing between the pot and media. So confusing.
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Seems like its the peat.
 
#22
Tattooguy8 said:
View attachment 2600325
Check this out. This was a mom I had in a one gallon. This plant was in this pot for four months roughly. Way too long I know but I’m always fiddling with stuff. I decided to break open the root ball and most of the roots were growing between the pot and media. So confusing.
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not a root expert here. could roots that grow in the peat be dying and giving that look?
 
#24
GasPlease said:
whats the exact differences in the rooms? Vpd could be a bit high for veg if your hitting 55 rh%.


Seems like its the peat.
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As of right now in the veg room the temp is 83.7 and the humidity is 60.8. Leaf temp is roughly 78 degrees. I just started running 84 degrees about a week ago as I was having very slow transpiration. For the past few years both rooms are 82 degrees and almost identical humidity. Slight variations here and there but so close it’s negligible.

The funny thing is the plants that came out of those one gallons were fairly healthy. A tiny bit of salt burn from high ec but nice and green. Half the girls are in coco right now and the results are similar. I have no idea why the roots were avoiding that peat. 25 years and I’ve never seen any of these issues. It’s almost like my water is poisonous and it causes root zone issues. How can that be with ro water?
 
#25
GasPlease said:
Ph in the peat?
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6.2-6.5 seems best in my environment but what do I know. I know the peat buffers ph and I haven’t noticed a huge difference moving it around that much. It does seem like the closer to 5.9 I try to run it the worst things get. Same goes for coco. I’ve never been able to run the usual ph in coco either.
 
#26
GasPlease said:
not a root expert here. could roots that grow in the peat be dying and giving that look?
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Man your guess is as good as mine. Really seems like they wanted nothing to do with it. I’m on top of watering. I do water by hand and it’s a twice a day deal. It’s a chore but I enjoy being with my plants. Im pretty consistent with the drybacks and not overwatering. 25 years of this hobby and this is all new to me.
 
#27
My kind led light has instructions to keep the temperature above 85 degrees because the led causes transpiration issues where they don’t open. My ac affinity light doesn’t have this suggestion. My current grow I cranked that kind light up temp went up to 85 and the leaf pissed a river in front of my eyes. I posted a photo of it somewhere on the trainwreck. Probably going to be difficult locating it but I will see if I can find it.
 
#28
IMG 5229
IMG 5647
There it is. Never seen anything like it .
 
#30
Tattooguy8 said:
Whoa that’s crazy. Did you notice a difference in your plants at all?
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Yes , they out grew the tent so I don’t have long term results on how effective it was. All the white stuff you see near the leaf stem is the reflection of the light on the river. Then you can see a few spots where the stoma opened on ends where it’s just spots of water. That particular plant at the very least wasn’t sweating until it hit the 85 which most growers don’t recommend here yet that light manufacturer does. As you can see from the photo it pissed. So much that I wanted to take it out from under the light so it didn’t burn.
 
#31
I looked into peat and its considered hydro. It could be a combo of things. You might try 6.0ph. Your preferred ppfd for 18/6. Mag is available between 5.8-6.2ph in peat. Since youre running 24 on she is working overtime with no rest. It could cause her to pull mag from the leaves before getting it from the roots if shes tired and already struggling with ph. Im probably telling you things you already know but Im just throwing things out there
 
#35
Tattooguy8 said:
Yep. At 200 ppfd at 24 hours dli is still way low. Shouldn’t really be a factor but who knows.
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I was more pointing towards the all the differences between led and hid at 24hrs on.

There is a radiant heat difference that the plants react differently to.
The spectrums are different which cause different reactions. LED has way more blue light which can overwhelm the plant at 24hrs.
LEDs are vastly more efficient that 24hrs is pushing her much harder than the hids did.
 
#36
GasPlease said:
I was more pointing towards the all the differences between led and hid at 24hrs on.

There is a radiant heat difference that the plants react differently to.
The spectrums are different which cause different reactions. LED has way more blue light which can overwhelm the plant at 24hrs.
LEDs are vastly more efficient that 24hrs is pushing her much harder than the hids did.
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I’m sure you’re exactly right. What I don’t get is I can throw those sick girls right into my flower room straight into 600 ppfd and in a week they’ll look pretty damn good. Even though it’s 12/12 that’s still more than double the dli. That would mean the plants should be able to handle 300 ppfd at 24 hours? Maybe this is the part I have all messed up. Running lights at 7’ off the ground 3-4 feet above the tops at 20% is pretty low. Longer than I like node spacing that’s for sure. Seedlings stretch for the light at this pofd if that’s any indicator. I see more stretch with a dark period in veg. Maybe I should do 18/6 at 400 ppfd and see what happens. Just takes half the damn day for my temps to come back up after that. Uuuhhh
 
#39
GasPlease said:
They get rest?
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I’m definitely not stuck in my ways. I’ve tried all of this. Been down all these roads. I’m sure you know marijuana don’t require a dark period like some plants. Now I’m not saying that necessarily relates to my situation. Dli is what matters is it not? If that’s not true then flu and par charts are worth nothing?

Also the t5 I sprout my seeds under and live under the first two weeks of their life at on 24 hours a day as well. The bulbs are 1” from the tops at all times and they are 6500k. That’s pretty blue isn’t it? If I didn’t see so many growers around the globe running much higher ppfd than me at 24 hours at a much lower ec I wouldn’t think twice.

Another reason I e always settled on 24 hours is I’ve had and still have a few moms that borderline start to flower at 18/6.

Also when I experimented with shorter days I also had unacceptable node spacing especially on seedlings while tight node spacing under the t5.
 
#40
GasPlease said:
Hope you get this figured out. I be checking in to see.
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I really appreciate you diggin in and trying to help me out. I’ve read through hundreds of threads on various forums of people having my identical issue and unfortunately they go unresolved. It’s amazing actually how nobody goes back into the thread and say what they ended up doing. I’m making a promise to come in here and let everyone know what the fix is. I have a feeling it’s gonna be some crazy one off issue with my water or something that can’t even be tested in a regular water test or some crazy crap.

Shit I used to do food, water, water, food, water food No real rhyme or reason and had beautiful plants. Crazy.
 
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