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Plant just came out of the ground, bad weather and no light will kill it?

  • Thread starter Thread starter roberto01234
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Plant just came out of the ground, bad weather and no light will kill it?

roberto01234 47 Replies 1,898 Views
Page 2 of 3 · Replies 21–40 of 48
#21
Galgrows said:
In the future you may want to keep it indoors till it's more developed.
I've tried what your doing and all autos just started to dwarf an flowers. Weather has to be consistently warm during the day 80f and not dip below 50f at night.
Photoperiod don't stall in lower temps just grow more slowly till temps are right.
Click to expand...

I don't play with autos but that's definitely something to consider is the time penalty with cold roots slowing the growth. I would expect the colder roots would also slow the aging metabolism but I don't think it works that way. They're born with an expiration date.
 
#22
Ninjadogma said:
Be careful there playing with your pH. There's times where you want to be watching it like a hawk like if you're doing hydroponics and if you're adding nutrients to water that could trigger a drastic change in value. But for just watering, unless you're chasing a specific known problem you've run into with your soil, don't get all hung up about it. Not sure what inspired you to adjust to 5.5 but if you're in soil and not doing a deliberate correction that is too low. If you know for a fact there's no buffers in the soil or you know they're gone (reused soil) then you can proactively "keep it in the middle" by adjusting your input to 6.5. Healthy range in soil is 6.0-7.0 so you're setting it right in the middle so it contributes no drift. Again that's only if you have a known issue. With the unreliability of pH pens that lose calibration, you are likely to make things worse and not better trying to manage something that doesn't really need to be managed.
Click to expand...

Makes sense since on the first try I was hospitalized and my mother watered the plants with water from the well, she said the grew good but she threw them away when they died. On the second try I used a ph solution and a cheap meter, but it wouldn't give accurate readings so the pH was way lower than what it should have been, and the plant came up very small. This year I bought a 50€ meter but sounds like it was useless. I don't know the soil pH as I'm reusing soil from last year and I've since thrown away the bag.

Galgrows said:
In
Click to expand...
Galgrows said:
the future you may want to keep it indoors till it's more developed.
I've tried what your doing and all autos just started to dwarf an flowers. Weather has to be consistently warm during the day 80f and not dip below 50f at night.
Photoperiod don't stall in lower temps just grow more slowly till temps are right.
Click to expand...

It's an auto though. Still I've left it outside under cover and I've seen some growth so I'm going to keep it outside at day.
 
#24
roberto01234 said:
It seems the plant is dead. Today I slept all day and forgot to bring it outside. It's not standing anymore. I've watered it a bit and put it outside.
Click to expand...

Hey Roberto at the end of the day it sounds like there were a couple things working against you with this attempt. Sorry it didn't work out.

Without going back and checking off every item, we had some unknown variables with pH and reused soil and you wound up trying to steer the pH. Reusing soil can be tricky. It needs to be cleaned up and recharged with nutrients and nutrient handling capability, and usually buffered to address any patterned pH drift. For now, you might just stick to new soil that already has buffers for balanced pH, a balanced nutrient load and good cation exchange. Then unless there's something really out of whack with your water supply, you can let the soil handle the pH management for you. Then the only time you need to worry about checking is when you're mixing nutrients that could put the mix too far out of range and in need of correction.
 
#25
Ninjadogma said:
Hey Roberto at the end of the day it sounds like there were a couple things working against you with this attempt. Sorry it didn't work out.

Without going back and checking off every item, we had some unknown variables with pH and reused soil and you wound up trying to steer the pH. Reusing soil can be tricky. It needs to be cleaned up and recharged with nutrients and nutrient handling capability, and usually buffered to address any patterned pH drift. For now, you might just stick to new soil that already has buffers for balanced pH, a balanced nutrient load and good cation exchange. Then unless there's something really out of whack with your water supply, you can let the soil handle the pH management for you. Then the only time you need to worry about checking is when you're mixing nutrients that could put the mix too far out of range and in need of correction.
Click to expand...

Hey it's not dead, after watering it yesterday stood back up again. About pH, I also have an "electrode" like tool which I used to measure the soil and it's around 7.5, isn't the right range from 5 to 7?
 
#26
roberto01234 said:
Hey it's not dead, after watering it yesterday stood back up again. About pH, I also have an "electrode" like tool which I used to measure the soil and it's around 7.5, isn't the right range from 5 to 7?
Click to expand...
I've always heard 6.2 - 6.8 for soil. I'm pretty new to this as well. Big thing that had me at first was the whole watering. You hear don't over water, don't over water, let it dry back, let it moist back. It's all on what you are using brother. I love to repeat over and over. When it brought up," over watering". It's about the frequency and not the amount. Sure you need to keep a good understanding of the time and growth rate. That should be a good comparison to what's going on underneath. Also yes old soil would need to be reintroduced to a new supply of nutes. Don't let it get to you. Try multiple at a time and try new methods. What works for me won't be what is best for you. Find that good practice, learn, and become confident! I was right there with you about 4 months ago.
 
#27
roberto01234 said:
Hey it's not dead, after watering it yesterday stood back up again. About pH, I also have an "electrode" like tool which I used to measure the soil and it's around 7.5, isn't the right range from 5 to 7?
Click to expand...
Donmoe said:
I've always heard 6.2 - 6.8 for soil. I'm pretty new to this as well. Big thing that had me at first was the whole watering. You hear don't over water, don't over water, let it dry back, let it moist back. It's all on what you are using brother. I love to repeat over and over. When it brought up," over watering". It's about the frequency and not the amount. Sure you need to keep a good understanding of the time and growth rate. That should be a good comparison to what's going on underneath. Also yes old soil would need to be reintroduced to a new supply of nutes. Don't let it get to you. Try multiple at a time and try new methods. What works for me won't be what is best for you. Find that good practice, learn, and become confident! I was right there with you about 4 months ago.
Click to expand...
This scheme illustrates Ph range for soil and hydro.
I'll tell how i understand how it works.
I grow is soil so i use the right side of the scheme.

In theory the scheme shows the correct ph level is 6.53.
It also shows a range Between 6 and 6.8.
2 things worth taking notice of.

1st we can't keep the soil at 6.53 all time.

2nd as i think someone mentioned you can't really measure that.
I'l explain why, if interested.

So i can only use ph meter reading as a point in the right direction.
Ph strips are more precise in real life use but a calibrated ph meter can also do it.

The soil changes the ph value.
When it's wet the ph is a bit higher and when it dries it gets more acidic.
That swing in ph makes sure the plant gets the different nutes i needs if they are in the soil.
That's why i chose my soil with 6.2-6.8 ph range, but i don't think it need to be precise like that. I have grown in slightly different ph range too.
But in the end all we can do is trying to stay in that range estimating with a meter or ph strips.
Correcting if things looks off.

There was a time we didn't use meters to measure when we grew something.
That is also worth remembering.
Indsat billede


Sorry if it was a bit confusing but i'm a little tired.
 
#28
roberto01234 said:
Don't have anything of that lying around... Temperatures are around 16 celsius, I'm trying to understand if the lack of light will kill the plant faster than cold
Click to expand...
temps 14 and under will make her hibernate for a sprout that will kill it. lack of light will make it spend energy growing taller to get more light soo it will kill it as well since it will not grow leafs just long sooner or later it doesn't have strength to hold it self up and collapses


Quick Guide – Lux Levels for Optimal Cannabis Growth
< 15,000 lux – sparse or “stretchy” growth – plant isn’t getting enough light
15,000 – 50,000 lux – a good amount of light for healthy vegetative growth
45,000 – 70,000 lux – the optimal amount of light for cannabis plants in the flowering (budding) stage. If grow lights produce a lot of UV light (such as LEC), stay on the lower side of this range
70,000 – 85,000 lux – a lot of light, some strains thrive at this light level, but some plants (especially auto-flowering and Indica strains) lose their top leaves early under this light intensity. At these levels, lights need to be kept further away for healthy growth
> 85,000 lux – at this light intensity, you’ve hit the plant’s “saturation point” which means your plant can’t use all the light (most strains will experience light bleaching or other major signs of stress at this level!)
 
#29
amneziaHaze said:
temps 14 and under will make her hibernate for a sprout that will kill it. lack of light will make it spend energy growing taller to get more light soo it will kill it as well since it will not grow leafs just long sooner or later it doesn't have strength to hold it self up and collapses


Quick Guide – Lux Levels for Optimal Cannabis Growth
< 15,000 lux – sparse or “stretchy” growth – plant isn’t getting enough light
15,000 – 50,000 lux – a good amount of light for healthy vegetative growth
45,000 – 70,000 lux – the optimal amount of light for cannabis plants in the flowering (budding) stage. If grow lights produce a lot of UV light (such as LEC), stay on the lower side of this range
70,000 – 85,000 lux – a lot of light, some strains thrive at this light level, but some plants (especially auto-flowering and Indica strains) lose their top leaves early under this light intensity. At these levels, lights need to be kept further away for healthy growth
> 85,000 lux – at this light intensity, you’ve hit the plant’s “saturation point” which means your plant can’t use all the light (most strains will experience light bleaching or other major signs of stress at this level!)
Click to expand...
Nice info.
I just want to add the limitations of the meter and the difference of the light source.
But looking at it, it pretty much looks like what i see with my setup and meter.
My indicas this grow like best below 50.000 lux.
Although i don't think i will push for 85.000 LUX. I feel the fun stops at 75.000'is in my setup
But if it is only on one high top i could go with 85.000 LUX.
Mine just makes nanas from that for some reason.
 
#30
trygrowup said:
Nice info.
I just want to add the limitations of the meter and the difference of the light source.
But looking at it, it pretty much looks like what i see with my setup and meter.
My indicas this grow like best below 50.000 lux.
Although i don't think i will push for 85.000 LUX. I feel the fun stops at 75.000'is in my setup
But if it is only on one high top i could go with 85.000 LUX.
Mine just makes nanas from that for some reason.
Click to expand...
try epson salt
and look at dli maybe you can play with power and time
 
#31
This one got around 75.000 LUX at the tops.
I got fooled a bit about the tips but they actually quite bright at the tips so i'm sure now it's light burn.
It made nanas at that light strength.
DSCI0990


amneziaHaze said:
try epson salt
and look at dli maybe you can play with power and time
Click to expand...
I think you're on to something with the epsom salt.
I've been thinking about what could be missing and i'll certainly try with epsom salt
 
#33
trygrowup said:
This one got around 75.000 LUX at the tops.
I got fooled a bit about the tips but they actually quite bright at the tips so i'm sure now it's light burn.
It made nanas at that light strength.
View attachment 2642332


I think you're on to something with the epsom salt.
I've been thinking about what could be missing and i'll certainly try with epsom salt
Click to expand...
you ever get the bottom leaf with lines or purple stem?
my nute says 0.52g/L but in flower i do double but i am dwc...
 
#36
#37
trygrowup said:
Hmmmm not really. Maybe. I'll check next time. It just my lower leafs has a lot of damage this grow so it is hard to tell but the skunk no1 with nanas doesn't look like it has that and not much red stems for my standard.
What do you say about this?
View attachment 2642391
View attachment 2642392
It's hard to see but the stem is a bit purple
Click to expand...
yellow is something else.
 
#39
amneziaHaze said:
yellow is something else.
Click to expand...
Yeah but it dosn't look like it has that other thing from your picture.
My guess about the yellow lower leafs is the plant doesn't need them. It's pretty dark down there. It has done like that all flower. Just speeding up now.
Could also be a feeding issue. But i don't think it looks like it takes the nutes from them like when it needs nutes.
 
#40
trygrowup said:
Yeah but it dosn't look like it has that other thing from your picture.
My guess about the yellow lower leafs is the plant doesn't need them. It's pretty dark down there. It has done like that all flower. Just speeding up now.
Could also be a feeding issue. But i don't think it looks like it takes the nutes from them like when it needs nutes.
Click to expand...
she needs them but the top was starving soo she sacrificed it. if you feed more they wouldn't do that i had grows where light would not touch the bottom you get yellow leafs but they are fresh not dead just dont need clorofil since light doesn't come there. in your case leafs next to the yellow one are green meaning light comes there but that leaf was in the biggest shadow. rest would follow over time

o yea since you don't have what i showed you in the pictures you dont have magnesium problems no need for epson salt.
 
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