Flooming vs Airstones

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Desertboy

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I have an ORP controller google it for more information it basically tells me how much O2 is in a usable form in the reservoir. Higher== more O2

The lower figure is 4 12" airstones with a 40l/min pump

the higher one flooming only

With flooming and airstones the ORP was within 5 points of the flooming alone (It was lower) which is close enough to be within natural variation.

Reservoir is temperature controlled which will have the greatest effect on ORP.

Conclusion airstones and airpumps aerate the reservoir 20% less than flooming while increasing the pathogens in the reservoir exponentially.


I have a plant on the go with a DWC without airpumps or airstones
 
Flooming vs airstones
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motherlode

motherlode

@Rolln_J
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very interesting

but uhhhh - lol - whats flooming?

and how did you come to the conclusion that airstones exponentially increase pathogens?
 
Desertboy

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but uhhhh - lol - whats flooming?

and how did you come to the conclusion that airstones exponentially increase pathogens?


air is blown through an airstone which acts like a sponge for bacteria since Pythium is airborne over most of the planet it's not hard to become infected. In fact most reservoirs are infected hence the need for temperature control to keep the infection under control.

I was informed by a pro koi carp farm who ditched the airstones years ago.


This is flooming
 
motherlode

motherlode

@Rolln_J
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thx for the response - bad link though
 
Desertboy

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Some reason I can't copy and paste the url properly

I wanted to ask if a small aquarium pump and airstone is enough to oxygenate a couple hundred gallon vat or tank full of fish?
When it comes to aeration:​
Nothing comes close to "flooming" - This requires nothing more than a water-pump which can lay flat on the pond or tank bottom and force water upward to the surface of the vat.​
It is not important, or even desirable for the water being "floomed" to break the surface - we DO NOT want a geyser.
All we want is a gentle swell at the surface where the water looks like it's "bulging" over the pump location. You see, oxygen exchange occurs only in contact with atmospheric "air" which is 21% oxygen. Venturis and other bubblers simply create agitation of the water and the bubbles lift the water to the surface for gas exchange.
Even better, a water pump forces large amounts of water to the surface for gas exchange, and it does so "simply" and very quietly. Flooming is ideal in retailers tanks because, unlike air bubbles, flooming causes less surface distortion so the consumer can still see and buy fish.​
small_floomer2.png
A water pump lifts more water than an airstone could EVER lift to the surface for gas exchange.​
Almost any brand of pump can work. You will find some pumps "stand up" better than others. It can be disastrous if the pump lays over and stops "flooming" the surface.​
Also, if the pump DOES "geyser" the surface the risk is increased that the pond or vat could be pumped dry by the pump if it directed water over the edge and onto the ground.​
So, a gentle flooming in any tank or vat is superior aeration. And it's as simple as dropping in a submersible pump and aiming it at the heavens.​
Erik -​
This information has gone into wide spread use especially at the retail level because the fish for sale show up better without a cloud of bubbles on the surface. However, despite being a common thing, the pundits will not even try it because it must be patently wrong. Why try something they "know" is wrong? Remember, whatever they know, is the one and onl
 
motherlode

motherlode

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lol gotya - thought that might be what it is - never heard the term
 
tokinupon1

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This is interesting but is the electricity consumption far higher? Also what about the added heat of running a pump 24?
 
motherlode

motherlode

@Rolln_J
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well he is using a chiller - so it should be able to handle the amount of heat a small pump would put off
 
S

swisscheese

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Electricity and heat outweigh not having to use air stones and a pump it would seem.
 
mittenmedgrow

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I like it. How big of a pump u think I'd need to do a 55 gallon drum? Thanks.
 
tokinupon1

tokinupon1

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A chiller would be a must I was just wondering what the difference maybe in electricity usage from an air pump to a sump. And would u have to run the pump 24hrs. Also what size pump are you using and siZe of the res? Just curious questions I've wanted to do different aeration tests myself just haven't broke down and bought the equipment. Plus there's alot more my garden needs first
 
motherlode

motherlode

@Rolln_J
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I like it. How big of a pump u think I'd need to do a 55 gallon drum? Thanks.

I "floom" when Im mixing my nutes in the big (40 gal) brute can - Im using a 400 gph pump and its exactly as the article sescribes - just breaking the surface not a geyser

so you could go with maybe a 450-500 since the drum is taller

some pumps have the option of dif sizes for the out take which would give you some more control
 
motherlode

motherlode

@Rolln_J
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A chiller would be a must I was just wondering what the difference maybe in electricity usage from an air pump to a sump. And would u have to run the pump 24hrs. Also what size pump are you using and siZe of the res? Just curious questions I've wanted to do different aeration tests myself just haven't broke down and bought the equipment. Plus there's alot more my garden needs first

well it depends if your running a dwc you would floom contant - but if your just flooming your res you could put it on a timer so it comes on and mixes for 20 minutes or so before your feeding to get the o2 levels up - I have done this in the past just to keep my res nice and mixed
 
tokinupon1

tokinupon1

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Hmm I'll have to give this a shot next winter with my ebb tables I usually have to use a heater so this may work nicer also hate cleaning the funk off the airstones.
 
Desertboy

Desertboy

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Maxijet is 10w which is so little heat and usage as to not matter at all.

worst case scenario it's like having a 10w heater in the reservoir and the pump probably only bleeds 30% in heat so really a 3w heater nothing to worry about in relation to the benefits.

I only have to use the chiller May-mid September.

I only have a 90l reservoir and 1 plant with a 25l DWC capacity.
 
Desertboy

Desertboy

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I like it. How big of a pump u think I'd need to do a 55 gallon drum? Thanks.

maxijet 1000 should do nicely you only need a light surface movement.

I have 2 pumps on 24/7 in my reservoir one pumps to the aquafarm/DWC and the other pumps to the chiller these on their return and what O2 it picks up inside the DWC max's the ORP out.

You can raise the ORP more with Ozone but that's a different story and you can overdo ORP when dealing with ozone.

The heat put out by these maxijet's is really very small.
 
tokinupon1

tokinupon1

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Very good info guys.do you think this is going to benefit growth over airstones? Are you doing a side by side comparison?
 
Desertboy

Desertboy

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I have no need I would love someone else to do it but the ORP controller doesn't lie and I have better things to do involving wierd nm's of light, LED's and HPS.


I challenge someone to prove this wrong or buy their own ORP controller and confirm my results. Either way it'd be nice to get some actual data.

I'm involved in Far Red light experiments which is going to dominate my growing for at least a year with the other things I have in mind I simply don't have the time or resources to do the ground work on this one.
 
mittenmedgrow

mittenmedgrow

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Thanks M.L. and desertboy. I think I'll try this at my buddies grow. I'm a coco-nut now and dont run a res. at the moment.
 
motherlode

motherlode

@Rolln_J
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I read somewhere a long time ago that "flooming" (didnt know that term back then) added more DO then airstones

now we have some evidence to back that up - nice work desertboy
 

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