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Aqua quest 1 HP Titanium Aquarium Water Chiller

  • Thread starter Thread starter seebobsled
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Aqua quest 1 HP Titanium Aquarium Water Chiller

seebobsled 41 Replies 10,290 Views
Page 2 of 3 · Replies 21–40 of 42
#21
well called Sunlight supply and talked to there tech.He was not aware of the beeping but said you could poke something in it. He also noted to add a wider dead band to control the cycle better.He also said as long as air flow does not change I can put dyno-mat on the inside to help dampen soundand not void warranty.yahoo!! He liked the feedback and I encourage others to call or email. The voice of the people can change things. Also you can have them located outside but must be covered with vents.aka"dog house" as he said!
 
#22
"There is a max flow rate as well and with 5400 gallons you may be over it. "
Well that is total flow for the whole system. The manual said max 26.5 ft head height and my pump is 22.5 ft so it should never max the pressure.I can adjust all circuits. Three off the pump one to the chiller and two for rooms.
 
#23
Well I did some work on isolation. I live with an adjoining wall to my landlord and I am a light sleeper too so:

This is what I found that mounted the chiller to the uni-strut frame



Then I put these pads under the pump to sit on



It made it quiet as the kitchen exhaust fan over the stove. Heck the refrigerator is louder. I can't feel it in the next room like I could before.

If anyone wants to isolate vibrations the points to watch for is :
the most deflection option to absorb the most
match the item weight at each contact point to the mount rating(don't go overboard! It will be too hard and do nothing if not close weight rating )
I hope someone else will benefit from my info because I have received plenty!!thanks
 
#24
seebobsled said:
Well I did some work on isolation. I live with an adjoining wall to my landlord and I am a light sleeper too so:

This is what I found that mounted the chiller to the uni-strut frame



Then I put these pads under the pump to sit on



It made it quiet as the kitchen exhaust fan over the stove. Heck the refrigerator is louder. I can't feel it in the next room like I could before.

If anyone wants to isolate vibrations the points to watch for is :
the most deflection option to absorb the most
match the item weight at each contact point to the mount rating(don't go overboard! It will be too hard and do nothing if not close weight rating )
I hope someone else will benefit from my info because I have received plenty!!thanks
Click to expand...

Pretty cool man...thanks for passing on that info
 
#25
I've had similar problems with the noise from airpumps passing through walls and ceilings- in this case, I hung the pump from a bungee cord to isolate its vibration and it worked very well. This is definitely an essential 'stealth' skill...
 
#26
Yes bungees do work , I hang my fan and scrubber with heavy duty rubber bungees!!!

But for heavy or large loads, those mounts I think are better. I also changed two pads on the compressor side to #4C955 to better hold the uneven weight of the chiller. Then got two more #4C875 and used those on the water pump and not the cork pads. These isolators let motion in all directions like a bobble head when pushed!!

It is very important to know that vibrations will travel longer than the sound emitted. The low hertz frequencies are the hardest to isolate. The high frequencies can be dispersed and absorbed and has a harder time traveling long distances.

If a car passes with the radio rocking the bass is what you hear first and last . and if the windows are up less mid and highs to where you can not tell what song it is just the beat!

(ttystick you should like the comparison ) :sun

lets:bong2:
 
#27
fresca sol's??? Chillville

Hi

I have been doing testing. I have flow to 2 fresca sols with 600's running @ 4gpm flow in a 4x8 tent, room for tent is 70 deg.,chiller room (when running)82deg. So after 1 hour lights on only the tent goes to 87 deg. if I run my air exchanger also it can run lower but I have to have the chiller set to 50 deg to get 75 in tent. It seems the chiller is getting taxed and I am thinking fresca sols are too much for the eco plus.It cycles so much sometimes it has to wait for the delay to run again. I have to blow chiller room heat to the rest of the house already, why should the chiller take all the load??If fresca sols don't remove most of the heat and the air handler is basically controlling temp why use all the power to move heat to the chiller room and then move from the chiller room to rest of house.So the evac fan runs already to keep the chiller room cool. The lights needs to bypass the chiller or it will never cool on hotter days because my daytime highs avg. 60deg now and chiller struggles.

I'm thinking of ditching the fresca sols and change to cool tubes and use the chiller for air handlers and rez chilling and the co2 gen. drain to waste with ro waste water.
Or should I put a barrel in the garage for lights and passive chill on the lights out? Would you take the btu per hour and back calculate like sizing a chiller but for rez size?
 
#28
Sounds like you need to lengthen the cycle time of the chiller by adding more water to the system. What res size are you running now? I would probably suggest at least 50-75 gallons . This will help alot, your chiller will be on longer but it will also be off longer, it will stop short cycling which it is doing now. Also if your flowrate isn't right this can cause you to short cycle the chiller, short cycling is wasting electricity.

If you need to get your water to 50 in order to cool the tent it means that you don't have enough heat exchange happening in the tent. For an example you can cool 3 1k watt lights with one ice box but the water will have to be 40 degrees, if you added one more ice box you can raise the water temperature to 50 degrees and get the same results, with three ice boxes you can use 60 degree water to get the same results. So basically if you add more heat exchangers in your tent then you won't have to run the water so cold to keep the tent cool. This will keep the chiller from cycling as much too. Keep this in mind, you can actually add enough heat exchangers that your tent can be the same temp as your water, not that I'm suggesting that you do that, just something to think about.

Don't ditch the frescas, you are really close to having it dialed in...don't give up!
 
#29
I have 55 gal rez. I did slow the flow to the chiller witch helped. but not solved.


Well I have been pondering the cheapest moving of heat and where I want it.
The lights seams more efficient to move the mass of heat with a fan. It isn't making sense to push all heat in water if I need it for the rest of the house. I have to transfer it back to air. So 10.5 amps for the chiller and 1 to 2 amps for fans. If there is radiant heat with air or water cooling and I want the heat elsewhere in air of the house so what's cheaper? The chiller and fresca sol looks to do double the work to move the heat for my design. Now if I didn't want the heat and had room for a separate rez for lights outside and not look weird or heat a pool,hot tub,well ; that would make sense to me. After my testing, that chiller will never work in summer if working hard in winter.

The big problem I had with air cooling in summer was hoods being heaters on lights out because daytime air was heating them. Winter I think the hoods would be like ice boxes and too cold lights out. I am going to use a
electric back draft damper @ .25 amps for lights with it's own intake and duct it to the chiller room (4'x4'x8' with 2 inch foam walls) that duct it to rest of house for heat.



I am not ditching water cooling but is the fresca sols really right for a chiller? Heck bare bulb it if the chiller is taking all the load right? Then none of the lumen is blocked by glass and water. They say water helps boost the spectrum's but glass is 7 to 14% lumen loss (2 layers).

I run sealed rooms for total control of room. Bare bulb looks to be pricy to run, like fresca sols on chillers. If I have to run more iceboxes then that's more fans too. The air cooling lights it should remove maybe 75% of heat. That would be cutting the load on the chiller to handle the summer ambient temps. This is Not a large scale grow just medical.
Cost of power is the largest drain of my cash each month. Just trying to find the best bang for the buck.

Please school me more master!! I will be a master soon too I hope. I learned lots.

Thanks
 
#30
I have an aqua quest chiller

Hello fellow farmers I just setup the 1 hp aqua quest chiller honestly it's way over kill for my setup I have a UC 4xxl-13 the water flow rate states 1000-1800 GPH but I have a used 950 Gph pump laying around so I hooked up and I ran a test powered up the room let the water get to 75 F turned on the chiller and it cooled it down to 65 F in less than 15 min it barely kicks on. My tent has 3000w lights co2 and dehumidifier so there heat in there. I thought its was going to be a cheap chiller but honestly it not just that the inlet and outlet size are odd 1.5"
 
#31
Oh yea that sucker is noisey when the compressor starts on sounds like when a big relay turns on sound like a thump lol
 
#32
Wow over 900 views and one user.

Thanks for responding johnnyrex. I hope it works for you and not buy it from "aqua guy". I could not get info from the seller on ebay or the manufacture so it scared me because if I had problems the same service or lack of would be had. That noise is probably the relay. I have a beep on start up that I filled it with clear silicone and muffled it. Please keep me updated here or pm me.
 
#33
seebobsled said:
Wow over 900 views and one user.

Thanks for responding johnnyrex. I hope it works for you and not buy it from "aqua guy". I could not get info from the seller on ebay or the manufacture so it scared me because if I had problems the same service or lack of would be had. That noise is probably the relay. I have a beep on start up that I filled it with clear silicone and muffled it. Please keep me updated here or pm me.
Click to expand...

No problem I actually called the aqua quest company and bought it from them yea they don't speak English very well but then again I took a gamble but it's legit the only problem I had was getting the fittings I had to go to home depot and buy PVC piping with reducers from 1.5" down to 3/4" dso I can fit the hose to the pump but once I got it, it well very well. Yea I think it's the relay that sound like that I personally don't like it thinking about selling the unit and down grading to 1/4 hp cause it way over kill for what I have.
My unit doesnt beep at all the only thing it does when it kicks on is that thump sound only
 
#34
I went with the eco plus commercial 1.5 hp and other than no adjustment for the temp swing.It runs well.
 
#35
Well updates

It's running good. I ditched the fresca sol's for now. Might do a side by side against air cooled to see if water and 2 layers of glass make a difference. Will do a separate rez for passive cooling @ lights out instead of using the chiller.

Plants are still adjusting but starting to bounce back. Flowering will start soon.

thanks to all that helped and looked.
and a BIG thanks to Chillville
 
#36
Sorry brother I got rid of it 2 weeks ago and bought a 1/4hp which is great
 
#37
seebobsled said:
I have 55 gal rez. I did slow the flow to the chiller witch helped. but not solved.


Well I have been pondering the cheapest moving of heat and where I want it.
The lights seams more efficient to move the mass of heat with a fan. It isn't making sense to push all heat in water if I need it for the rest of the house. I have to transfer it back to air. So 10.5 amps for the chiller and 1 to 2 amps for fans. If there is radiant heat with air or water cooling and I want the heat elsewhere in air of the house so what's cheaper? The chiller and fresca sol looks to do double the work to move the heat for my design. Now if I didn't want the heat and had room for a separate rez for lights outside and not look weird or heat a pool,hot tub,well ; that would make sense to me. After my testing, that chiller will never work in summer if working hard in winter.

The big problem I had with air cooling in summer was hoods being heaters on lights out because daytime air was heating them. Winter I think the hoods would be like ice boxes and too cold lights out. I am going to use a
electric back draft damper @ .25 amps for lights with it's own intake and duct it to the chiller room (4'x4'x8' with 2 inch foam walls) that duct it to rest of house for heat.



I am not ditching water cooling but is the fresca sols really right for a chiller? Heck bare bulb it if the chiller is taking all the load right? Then none of the lumen is blocked by glass and water. They say water helps boost the spectrum's but glass is 7 to 14% lumen loss (2 layers).

I run sealed rooms for total control of room. Bare bulb looks to be pricy to run, like fresca sols on chillers. If I have to run more iceboxes then that's more fans too. The air cooling lights it should remove maybe 75% of heat. That would be cutting the load on the chiller to handle the summer ambient temps. This is Not a large scale grow just medical.
Cost of power is the largest drain of my cash each month. Just trying to find the best bang for the buck.

Please school me more master!! I will be a master soon too I hope. I learned lots.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I have been watching your experience with fresca sol with interest. To cool an 8x1000W sealed room, I run air from the house through 8" ducting and ocho hoods. The air is pulled through the system by one 8" maxfan, which blows the hot air outside. I do not watercool any of the lights, to me it seemed very wasteful to do that. Thus, the only air to be cooled is the ambient air in the sealed room, and to do this I have two 8" maxfans blowing through 2 iceboxes. Not only is this plenty of capacity, but I get a lot of condensation building up on the iceboxes. If I can properly channel this condensate away I may be able to do without my dehumidifier- and the expense of running it- altogether.

The water is in its own circuit, and I run separate cooling circuits through the iceboxes and also through cooling coils in the RDWC hydro systems in the same room. This way I only need one chiller to cool everything, in this case a 2 ton chillking. It sits on the windowsill outside in the summer, and inside providing most of the heat to the house in the winter... The January gas bill was $40!

With this setup, the chiller still runs less than half the time and keeps up with the 8x1000w room without breaking a sweat.

If what you're cooling is a tent and you want to use some of the heat to warm your house, why not just run air through the hood and back out into the house? That would cool the tent, heat the house and should create minimal smell because if it's properly set up there's no air mixing between the light venting and the ambient air in the tent.
 
#38
Must of missed I ditched fresca sols for now and went back to air cooled sealed hoods but added an electric damper. The fan,damper and lights all triggered together. The lights have a time delay so damper is open when lights come on.

I have had to insulate everything to control sweating where I don't want it. I had to slow down my fan to the heat exchanger because it was blowing water all over. Looks like I got it together . Thanks for following!
 
#39
2012 04 03 19 29 33 924

well here is a picture for an update
 
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