Can you identify this bug?

[slikhik]

I'm about a week away from flowering but I noticed some plants are much smaller than others. After closer examination I found bugs growing in the plants roots. (see pics) Can anyone tell me what this bug is and how to treat it.
Treatment plan:
Step 1: Drench each basket in a five gallon solution of pyrethrin. (Done)
Step 2: Foliar spray all plants and the inside and outside of each module with pyrethrin. (Done)
Step 3: drain and refill system with new water.

Any help would be appreciated. thx!

 

[TurboNugs]

Root aphid...bayer systemic treatment fruit and veggies

 

[slikhik]

Thx turbo nugs. Are you able to eradicate it after one treatment or will it take multiple treatments?

 

[HydroRocks]

I would suggest Capulator's tri-pack as it would not only get rid of these root critters, but it also has other uses, like helping to grow a healthy strong root mass.....you want to try and avoid a "systemic" type product unless you absolutely have to, kinda a last resort type thing..... the stuff in Capulator's packs is a better way to go, its more effective and best of all it is a much more "natural" approach letting mother nature do what she does.....

Below is a excerpt from a article written about the dangers of systemic type products.....

Most pesticides type products are ‘residual’; that is, they cling to the surface of a plant and remain active for a certain amount of time. A approved naturally occurring soil organism that’s deadly to caterpillar pests—is a good example. You spray it on a plant being eaten by caterpillars and the caterpillars currently feeding on the sprayed leaves die, and so do any new ones that show up to feed for a while. How long that ‘while’ lasts depends on variables like temperature, rain, and sunlight.

‘Systemic’ products and pesticides are taken up inside the plant, typically through the root system, so that every part of the plant then contains the chemical. (I say ‘chemical’ here because I can’t think of any organic systemics.) As you can imagine, systemics on food crops are an especially bad idea. In fact, in one of their very first uses, the string beans they were “protecting” became as poisonous to people as the attacking bean beetles.

When most people understand what a "systemic" type product is, they usually do not want to use it anymore.....the problem then becomes finding out which products we use are "systemic" by design......this is a problem! Most folks do not know for example that SM-90 is a systemic product and they use it regularly without thought or care....

 

[Smoking Gun]

‘Systemic’ products and pesticides are taken up inside the plant, typically through the root system, so that every part of the plant then contains the chemical. (I say ‘chemical’ here because I can’t think of any organic systemics.) As you can imagine, systemics on food crops are an especially bad idea. In fact, in one of their very first uses, the string beans they were “protecting” became as poisonous to people as the attacking bean beetles.

Ok, this is just plain incorrect. There are plenty of natural systemic controls, one is SNS 209. It uses only rosemary oil to repel pests, not "chemicals". It would not be a good idea to apply the control several days before harvest, however if the use of the product is discontinued about two weeks before harvest it is perfectly safe.

Now let us also examine the use of the word 'chemical'. Even organics uses chemicals, much of what we encounter on a daily basis is chemical based. However we have used the term 'chemical' to mean unnatural and inorganic. The term inorganic or synthetic would far more accurate. Chemical just simply refers to the type of bonds the connect the atoms and molecules. We always have chemicals within our bodies and so do plants. So let us be very careful about using the term chemical.

 

[HydroRocks]

Hmmmmmmmm, I disagree with smoking gun, but then again this is a very typical response based on ignorance.......you should try and focus on the main point instead of focusing on a single word that I used and how it was used in a sentence like "chemical"....you can call it Mickey Fucking Mouse for all I care as it is irrelevant and not the point.....

I also NEVER claimed in my post that there are no natural systemic products like SNS209, which is not even what we are talking about here.....the product mentioned here was Bayer, not SNS209....but that is ok, just make it up as you go along and as you see fit....LOL!!

The point of my post is about the use of "systemic" products and there use on consumable's when they are NOT needed, when there is a BETTER and SAFER way that is more effective and will over all give your plants health and growth benefits.....but whatever.

I am sure you are a expert on systemic products and there use or misuse I should say....I would LOVE to see your proof that systemic products will leave the plant in 2 weeks time as well.....I am thinking how long the product takes to leave the plant will greatly depend on MANY factors....

Keep in mind that even TODAY we find traces of poisons we use to use many years ago, like Dursban for example, even after its ban for use in the USA, it is STILL detected in 100% of personal indoor air samples and 70% of umbilical-cord blood collected from pregnant women 18–35 years old.....

 

[TurboNugs]

Both have truths ^^^ being still in veg the plants should bounce back an not have much chemical in it by harvest. Quick an easy is what you need now or try Azamax....$0.02

 

[tattoojim]

just for the record fellas...dursban is not banned in the us of a..wikepiadia that shit...2 forms of that stuff lorsban and dursban...we used to use that stuff when i worked at a golf course

 

[green punk]

evergreen or ExciteR. They are pyrethrium based highest concentration available 6%. Mix 2 ml per gallon will kill them even with nutes. Then use bennies to eat carcuses . I had them never used any merit or bayer anything that goes systemic.
Good Luck, those things are the worst.

 

[Mr postman]

Azatrol OMRI approved.

Research it and you wont be sorry. Having said that i still wouldnt use it past the stretch(or once you have bud development in flower.

 

[Smoking Gun]

Hmmmmmmmm, I disagree with smoking gun, but then again this is a very typical response based on ignorance.......you should try and focus on the main point instead of focusing on a single word that I used and how it was used in a sentence like "chemical"....you can call it Mickey Fucking Mouse for all I care as it is irrelevant and not the point.....

I also NEVER claimed in my post that there are no natural systemic products like SNS209, which is not even what we are talking about here.....the product mentioned here was Bayer, not SNS209....but that is ok, just make it up as you go along and as you see fit....LOL!!

The point of my post is about the use of "systemic" products and there use on consumable's when they are NOT needed, when there is a BETTER and SAFER way that is more effective and will over all give your plants health and growth benefits.....but whatever.

I am sure you are a expert on systemic products and there use or misuse I should say....I would LOVE to see your proof that systemic products will leave the plant in 2 weeks time as well.....I am thinking how long the product takes to leave the plant will greatly depend on MANY factors....

Keep in mind that even TODAY we find traces of poisons we use to use many years ago, like Dursban for example, even after its ban for use in the USA, it is STILL detected in 100% of personal indoor air samples and 70% of umbilical-cord blood collected from pregnant women 18–35 years old.....

Hydro, I was not attacking you and I am sorry you took my post personally. I was simply trying to inform all, the term 'chemical' is often misused and I was trying to remedy that; it was far from the point I was focusing on. Also you did state you know no organic systemics, and brought one to light. That was the point of my post, there are natural and organic systemics that are same for food products.

 

[Surfr]

Azatrol DOES NOT WORK. Caps packs will help with MOST bugs, but will not eradicate them fully. Myself and others have experienced this. Your best bet it to hit them with some ExciteR or Evergreen first. If those do not work, go with the Merit75.. I just went through the second Aphid world war. Shit was not fun.

 

[Patanjali]

I've been battling root aphids for months. They can reproduce asexually and are very difficult to get rid of. If you are going to use any form of imidicloprid (Bayer tree&shrub, merit75, mallet, etc) I would use it as very early in veg as possible. Don't even think of using this stuff during flowering. I've done quite a bit of reading and talking with other growers, and the general consensus I found was get out the big guns right away. Azamax will knock them back, but it did not eradicate them for me. I also recommend dunking the pot in the solution and letting it sit for a while rather then just watering it in. Just my 2¢ from dealing with these little demons!

 

[ECOutlaw]

Use the Merit75 or mallet now. Then kontos and/or evergreen/excitr. These things suck and I lost all my genetics when I had them. My plants got a sickness from them that did not go away even after they were dead and gone. The grape ape is the only strain that I was able to save. Don't try a prolonged drawn out battle they will win. Think Fast n Furious.

 

[motiv303]

I had Root Aphids BADLY a while back, tried EVERYTHING (Azamax, Azatrol, Met 52, boiling hot water, microbe lift, Diatomaceous earth, cloning everything/ tossing all infected plants, all new pots/trays/saucers, on and on) none of it killed them. Imidicloprid (Bayer in my case) and Spectracide Triazicide are the only things that worked on the fuckers. Pyrethium bombs and sticky traps got the flyers, bayer and Spec for the crawlers (veg only of course), and teas with Caps Packs to get the root zones back in shape and seems to help keep the RA from colonizing again. Predatory nematodes (Steinernema Feltiae) helped as well. Root Aphids are nightmarish creatures, hit them hard, NOW! Thats my $0.02. Peace and good luck. Motiv

 

[thehappygardener]

Root aphids are a bitch. It may take months to erradicate. Dont expect any over-night fix. I tried just about everything my local grow store had to offer with little success. When coming up with a game plan you should analyze everything including your grow methods. I did a side by side comparision a while back with rockwool, hydroton and coco grows. What i noticed is that the root aphids had a tendency to spread faster between rockwool and hydroton (faster access to roots). My next step was to phase in only coco for about 4-6months treated heavily(double the reccomended rate) with MET52(met is nonsytemic). I used met granular for the root bastards and Met liquid for fliers. You can probably substitute pyrethium bomb for the liquid. After six months my problem was gone. Then i phased back into my rockwool techniques. Ive worked with several other med companies in colorado that have had similar results with this method. Good luck. Nothing is easy fighting those little bastards.

 

[FireWithin]

I've been growing for some time now and thankfully have never had a issue with these bugs. After following many threads with this issue, now , I'm becoming seriously paranoid of these ra's and want to apply every ounce of prevention to avoid them. Where is most suspected these bastards r entering all these gardens and any input on avoiding them from the farm here, would certainly be gold! Many thanks and blessings to every1 here and your endeavors-FW

 

[thehappygardener]

I live in a med state, so everyone is trading genetics at a fast past. RA's are totally out of control here. The best prevention is keeping a lock down approach to your garden. Dont bring in any new strains. Work from seeds. Dont let anyone into your garden...