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I start uv right after the stretch phase and run all the way through. Can use almost any nutrients and get the same quality.
Nice... this is how i use themSo soon I can test uv-treated cannabis.
I bought two 18 w tubes and put them behind bars as picture's show:
20 $*2 piece and one 20 w bulb. 56 w and 4w from bugkiller. It is rolls in top so adjust where I want them and also move them in the other level.
60 w uva-uvb extra . The 4 from led of 120 i really don't know so much about bot they are sure good for the spektrum.
As the 100w cfl I put in for better and differnt spektra.View attachment 613967 View attachment 613968
Thats real nice , that's how I first wanted to do but I had to buy from Germany the TCL-uv's. Only two kinds of uv bulbs where I live. One of them produced to little uv-b so Thats why I bought TCL ( TCL I can change 6 $ , bulb good here 25 $ and cost for transport ). Little bit trickier to hang up but as you can se very simple , doesn't look perfect but the plant's will produce more THC to ME :) .Nice... this is how i use them
If THCV is Produced or THC as name for all THC's . That I can't read about from SLU ( Swedish Agric university ).UV spectrum increases THC-V not THC. If you want a good UV-A/B light, look into reptile lights. Trixie Desert Pro 12.0 puts out 12% UV spectrum. Can't beat that.
Pictures two of them I wrote 6 jul. I ordered two blacklightsglad you tried n tested the uv mate.ive got mine off at the moment.too much heat,so had to move everything that's not essential .should be good in a few days.whats the deal with these black disco lights then?are they of the uv spectrum or something different?have you got a picture.thanks.
Yes maybe your'e right , what is best really don't know myself , but if you should buy everything now one setup , yes hps and mh best option.personally if you think its does better then all the power to you maybe try MH and HPS combo
Thanks for reminder , Before I run HPS and MH , maybe the easiest would been to use 250w MH in top before adding spec uv ? Now I can test both :)personally if you think its does better then all the power to you maybe try MH and HPS combo
Look for reptisun 10.0 on amazon. They are for lizards... and the cheapest i have found and easiest to hangThats real nice , that's how I first wanted to do but I had to buy from Germany the TCL-uv's. Only two kinds of uv bulbs where I live. One of them produced to little uv-b so Thats why I bought TCL ( TCL I can change 6 $ , bulb good here 25 $ and cost for transport ). Little bit trickier to hang up but as you can se very simple , doesn't look perfect but the plant's will produce more THC to ME :) .
ref: ( Swedish agricultural university ) uv-b increase THC
I belive in broad spectrum so it's HPS CFL TCL LED so from UV-B to Infrared
Oh thats a little better yet... 12.0sUV spectrum increases THC-V not THC. If you want a good UV-A/B light, look into reptile lights. Trixie Desert Pro 12.0 puts out 12% UV spectrum. Can't beat that.
Got mine via Walmart - 46" T5HO for about 28$ each plus shipping. Shop around.Look for reptisun 10.0 on amazon. They are for lizards... and the cheapest i have found and easiest to hang
I use them from about week 2 (after stretch) all the way through flower and i keep them withing 12 inches of the canopy
Nice information, thanksI selected the reptisun lamps because they are made in volume (cheap) and seem to have the right spectrum that includes UV-A in the correct ratio to UV-B and some significant output in the blue spectrum. I figure the references I provided may be a bit on the TL;DR side for many folks - however the specifics are there - and apply to the fruit (flowering) stage of cannabis: UV-B causes specific responses, not unlike low-stress training (LST) . UV-A is *required* to fix the damage created by UV-B (reactivation) - longer wavelength blue is also needed as part of the (obvious) evolutionary adaption.
There are two basic evolutionary adaptions present in many plants that are present in cannabis. The first is this adaption to survive and cope with various light conditions due to latitude or the filtering condition of the atmosphere ( Ozone layer filtering of short wavelengths like UV-C and to a large degree UV-B) as well as the well-known PAR spectrum ( There is a thing such as "Too much light" - see:How Much Light Is Too Much? )
The second adaption is to excess atmospheric CO2. This comes from the time of the PETM event - The reason why our plants will likely outlive any insult we do to the planet - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paleocene–Eocene_Thermal_Maximum - As many in the greenhouse business have long known, CO2 is a tool that can be used when adequate light is available.
I think it is important to note - these are not things beginners should try - it only confuses the already confused. You need to be an accomplished plant grower/observer with a stable environment before adding advanced techniques such as CO2 supplementation. In my experience, the introduction of CO2 generates humidity issues from increased transpiration. I simply added a dehumidifier and that solved the issue.
I haven't found any consistent advice for UV spectrum exposure for cannabis as yet - I think I may have to figure that out on my own.
I think the ones i get are about 20 bucks on amazon.. i have been to a pet store and they mark them up to 30 bucks a bulb.Got mine via Walmart - 46" T5HO for about 28$ each plus shipping. Shop around.
As far as consistent advice on exposure.. they have many references on the % of uvb you want but they dont have a specific way to use them. I use them all day with the other hps. I know at dusk and dawn the uv is a lot less but we still get some exposure anytime the sun is out. Then youll hear others just use it an hour per day... others will use it last 2 weeks of flower.I selected the reptisun lamps because they are made in volume (cheap) and seem to have the right spectrum that includes UV-A in the correct ratio to UV-B and some significant output in the blue spectrum. I figure the references I provided may be a bit on the TL;DR side for many folks - however the specifics are there - and apply to the fruit (flowering) stage of cannabis: UV-B causes specific responses, not unlike low-stress training (LST) . UV-A is *required* to fix the damage created by UV-B (reactivation) - longer wavelength blue is also needed as part of the (obvious) evolutionary adaption.
There are two basic evolutionary adaptions present in many plants that are present in cannabis. The first is this adaption to survive and cope with various light conditions due to latitude or the filtering condition of the atmosphere ( Ozone layer filtering of short wavelengths like UV-C and to a large degree UV-B) as well as the well-known PAR spectrum ( There is a thing such as "Too much light" - see:How Much Light Is Too Much? )
The second adaption is to excess atmospheric CO2. This comes from the time of the PETM event - The reason why our plants will likely outlive any insult we do to the planet - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paleocene–Eocene_Thermal_Maximum - As many in the greenhouse business have long known, CO2 is a tool that can be used when adequate light is available.
I think it is important to note - these are not things beginners should try - it only confuses the already confused. You need to be an accomplished plant grower/observer with a stable environment before adding advanced techniques such as CO2 supplementation. In my experience, the introduction of CO2 generates humidity issues from increased transpiration. I simply added a dehumidifier and that solved the issue.
I haven't found any consistent advice for UV spectrum exposure for cannabis as yet - I think I may have to figure that out on my own.