Grow Room Electrical

So I have a little bit of electrical I'm trying to figure out. I have 2 greenbeams and a de on the way all 240v. I want to keep modifications to the electrical to the minimum. I have a unused dryer outlet it my basement wired to a dedicated 30amp 240v circuit. The dryer outlet is a Nema 14-30r 125v-250v 30amp outlet. I recently fished some 10-3 from that outlet to my grow room. I also purchased a 30/50a 125/250v Nema 14-30p male plug. Is it ok to wire the 10-3 to the plug to avoid having to take apart the receptale? Also all the receptacles for the light need to be 240v 20a correct? Is it safe to wire a 2 20amp receptacles to one another? I've been also looking at light controllers to solve this issue. This one in particular

Last thing I have a dedicated outlet 20a 120v circuit but only 15a receptacle I purchased some 14-2 to run from that outlet. Is that going to be ok as long as I put a duplex 15a receptacles on it?

I'm a eager to get things going and plan on getting a journal started here shortly. Thanks in advance.

Quicksilv312 said:

So I have a little bit of electrical I'm trying to figure out. I have 2 greenbeams and a de on the way all 240v. I want to keep modifications to the electrical to the minimum. I have a unused dryer outlet it my basement wired to a dedicated 30amp 240v circuit. The dryer outlet is a Nema 14-30r 125v-250v 30amp outlet. I recently fished some 10-3 from that outlet to my grow room. I also purchased a 30/50a 125/250v Nema 14-30p male plug. Is it ok to wire the 10-3 to the plug to avoid having to take apart the receptale? Also all the receptacles for the light need to be 240v 20a correct? Is it safe to wire a 2 20amp receptacles to one another? I've been also looking at light controllers to solve this issue. This one in particular

Last thing I have a dedicated outlet 20a 120v circuit but only 15a receptacle I purchased some 14-2 to run from that outlet. Is that going to be ok as long as I put a duplex 15a receptacles on it?

I'm a eager to get things going and plan on getting a journal started here shortly. Thanks in advance.

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Im not an electrician and therefore my comments should just be taken as a personal experience account. I wouldn'twant to be accountable for misinformed advice. Having said that, i personally have used a preexisting 220v outlet to power several 1k lights, when you use 220v the amperage is reduced by 50% roughly. So with a 30amp circuit braker you coild easily use 5, 1k watt lights. What i have done is wire the actual outlet directly to an autopilot light controler with a relay trigger. The relay gos to a 110v outlet on a timer snd the ballasts straight to the light controller.

Always consult with a professional if at all possible. Best of luck to you.

Quicksilv312 said:

So I have a little bit of electrical I'm trying to figure out. I have 2 greenbeams and a de on the way all 240v. I want to keep modifications to the electrical to the minimum. I have a unused dryer outlet it my basement wired to a dedicated 30amp 240v circuit. The dryer outlet is a Nema 14-30r 125v-250v 30amp outlet. I recently fished some 10-3 from that outlet to my grow room. I also purchased a 30/50a 125/250v Nema 14-30p male plug. Is it ok to wire the 10-3 to the plug to avoid having to take apart the receptale? Also all the receptacles for the light need to be 240v 20a correct? Is it safe to wire a 2 20amp receptacles to one another? I've been also looking at light controllers to solve this issue. This one in particular

Last thing I have a dedicated outlet 20a 120v circuit but only 15a receptacle I purchased some 14-2 to run from that outlet. Is that going to be ok as long as I put a duplex 15a receptacles on it?

I'm a eager to get things going and plan on getting a journal started here shortly. Thanks in advance.

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On the 220v dryer plug..
Your best bet is to use a controller to time the lights via a 120v trigger cord and relay, like Xrm does. But yes you can split-bolt wires as a junction for multiple outlets..take heed to wrap well and thick with quality electrical tape if you do...put the junctions, evenly spaced in a work box.
The other way is to wire a dryer end plug and that will exist as your junction to feed a controller. You do not need 10-3...10-2 grounded is enough. But since you already have it, 2 hots and a ground is all you will use..the neutral (white)will be capped at the controller side(new 220 receptacles are 10-3 by code these days to provide 120v such as a timer or added ground etc). In order to find out exactly which blades of the receptacle are hot and which is ground and neutral..you need to open the receptacle up and have a look. Wire Black and Red as hot..match your green to green(ground) and white to white (neutral)..then at the controller, hook up your hots and ground and cap the neutral.

Yes you can wire 15 amp 120v on 20 amp 120v circuit..just not the other way around. 14-2 should be okay..unless it is a ridiculously long run..or you intend to upgrade the receptacle to a 20 amp plug..then use 12-2.

Thanks for the advice, I will pick up that light controller and just pick up the matching 30a receptacle for it. I will have a dedicated 30a 240v, a dedicated 15a 120v and a shared 15a 120v for the room. Should handle plenty of amps now.

Hi all, I just picked up one of these: http://m.ebay.com/itm/110V-Digital-...-99-RH-HM-40-Type-US-/281762303023?nav=SEARCH

And I plan to use it to control a humidifier. Only issue is the humidifier runs at 8 amps and the switch on the above controller is only rated for 5 amps. From what I understand this can be remedied with a 10-15amp relay but I am at a loss on choosing one and installing it.

Seems like a fairly simple maneuver I just have no experience wiring electronics.

Thanks!

Savage Henry said:

Hi all, I just picked up one of these: http://m.ebay.com/itm/110V-Digital-...-99-RH-HM-40-Type-US-/281762303023?nav=SEARCH

And I plan to use it to control a humidifier. Only issue is the humidifier runs at 8 amps and the switch on the above controller is only rated for 5 amps. From what I understand this can be remedied with a 10-15amp relay but I am at a loss on choosing one and installing it.

Seems like a fairly simple maneuver I just have no experience wiring electronics.

Thanks!

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IMO the more contacts and junctions you have the higher the risk of failure. This is a simple fix..instead of buying the relay..just buy a higher rated humidistat and make clean work of it.
https://www.amazon.com/docooler-Dig...ywords=Digital+Air+Humidity+Controller+10+amp

BTW..relays can be simple animals that usually include simple schematics..unless it is a broad range use device, in which case it can seem very complicated. Here's a quick look to appease your curiosity.
https://www.hvacquick.com/howtos/howto_relay.php

Natural said:

IMO the more contacts and junctions you have the higher the risk of failure. This is a simple fix..instead of buying the relay..just buy a higher rated humidistat and make clean work of it.
https://www.amazon.com/docooler-Dig...ywords=Digital+Air+Humidity+Controller+10+amp

BTW..relays can be simple animals that usually include simple schematics..unless it is a broad range use device, in which case it can seem very complicated. Here's a quick look to appease your curiosity.
https://www.hvacquick.com/howtos/howto_relay.php

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Word. Thanks, boss. This is what happens when I impulse buy, didn't occur to me until I got the thing in the mail to check the amperage of the humidifier. Chalk that move up to an excess of espesso and smoke in the am.

I see your point with the probability of failure increasing with each added component, but let's say I was to tinker with this anyway, would you recommend a solid state or coil relay?

I may have to put in a photosensor switch as well so the thing doesn't kick on during lights out, but I'll check to see how it restarts if I simply plug it into a timer first.

Savage Henry said:

Hi all, I just picked up one of these: http://m.ebay.com/itm/110V-Digital-...-99-RH-HM-40-Type-US-/281762303023?nav=SEARCH

And I plan to use it to control a humidifier. Only issue is the humidifier runs at 8 amps and the switch on the above controller is only rated for 5 amps. From what I understand this can be remedied with a 10-15amp relay but I am at a loss on choosing one and installing it.

Seems like a fairly simple maneuver I just have no experience wiring electronics.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Try to find some one with experience to do it.

Savage Henry said:

Word. Thanks, boss. This is what happens when I impulse buy, didn't occur to me until I got the thing in the mail to check the amperage of the humidifier. Chalk that move up to an excess of espesso and smoke in the am.

I see your point with the probability of failure increasing with each added component, but let's say I was to tinker with this anyway, would you recommend a solid state or coil relay?

I may have to put in a photosensor switch as well so the thing doesn't kick on during lights out, but I'll check to see how it restarts if I simply plug it into a timer first.

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At lights out is usually when humidity spikes. Lights go out , plants transpire ,hot air rises and humidity spikes. Get a thermostat that records highest and lowest tempd for each day

X.rm said:

At lights out is usually when humidity spikes. Lights go out , plants transpire ,hot air rises and humidity spikes. Get a thermostat that records highest and lowest tempd for each day

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For sure, man, already on that. I'm just trying to rig up a humidifier so I can dial in my vpd when the lights are on.:)

Savage Henry said:

Word. Thanks, boss. This is what happens when I impulse buy, didn't occur to me until I got the thing in the mail to check the amperage of the humidifier. Chalk that move up to an excess of espesso and smoke in the am.

I see your point with the probability of failure increasing with each added component, but let's say I was to tinker with this anyway, would you recommend a solid state or coil relay?

I may have to put in a photosensor switch as well so the thing doesn't kick on during lights out, but I'll check to see how it restarts if I simply plug it into a timer first.

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I wouldn't..but the electromechanical one won't rob the load and be affected by high temps as much. I only use relays in automotive settings and have not fiddled with HVAC relays as much. You might get better advice in the AC/HVAC thread from Johnboy.
Have you seen this video..not sure if the chinese manual is correct or wrong after watching it and reading the comments. But might lend you some insight if you were planning on wiring the humidistat as a relay with a separate power source as opposed to wiring in place of factory control board.

Hi folks. I got a slight problem maybe someone can help with. I have a 600 watt dimable ballast that has stopped working, its brand new so got a new one on the way, no probs there, apart from plants sitting in day light room and light schedule been messed up :-( The thing is im thinking this could either be a manufacturers fault or something im running has caused it, if the latter i need to sort it as obviously i dont want to blow another :-( So ive first checked all electrics and all is fine, ive also looked inside the contactor that is a ECOTECHNICS POWERSTAR LIGHTING CONTACTOR RELAY, sorry bout caps, just copied and pasted :) when i look inside it has 2 wires going nowhere, they have contacts on the end to attach somewhere but there are no free conacts and no where else for them to go. Has any one taken one of these appart bfore and if so is it normal to have 2 wires going nowhere. Many thanks NUBE

newbie1 said:

Hi folks. I got a slight problem maybe someone can help with. I have a 600 watt dimable ballast that has stopped working, its brand new so got a new one on the way, no probs there, apart from plants sitting in day light room and light schedule been messed up :-( The thing is im thinking this could either be a manufacturers fault or something im running has caused it, if the latter i need to sort it as obviously i dont want to blow another :-( So ive first checked all electrics and all is fine, ive also looked inside the contactor that is a ECOTECHNICS POWERSTAR LIGHTING CONTACTOR RELAY, sorry bout caps, just copied and pasted :) when i look inside it has 2 wires going nowhere, they have contacts on the end to attach somewhere but there are no free conacts and no where else for them to go. Has any one taken one of these appart bfore and if so is it normal to have 2 wires going nowhere. Many thanks NUBE

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I have no idear if your relay killed your ballast. The specs on that ecotechnic seem pretty lightweight with no arc protection.
Get a heavy duty ballast timer instead. like one of these..
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aquariam-Reptile-House-Heater-Switch/dp/B00GEUTVWI

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLUG-AND-...-600W-GROW-LIGHTS-FOR-GROW-TENT-/270732866707

Thanks for reply @Natural :) Ive got this timer (pic) that i think is a heavy duty. (Its not this make but the same type) If i have one of these is it okay to run straight from wall socket

newbie1 said:

Thanks for reply @Natural :) Ive got this timer (pic) that i think is a heavy duty. (Its not this make but the same type) If i have one of these is it okay to run straight from wall socket

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I'm not very familiar with UK type timers in general, as I'm in the States, but as long as it's rated high enough to run the amps on your ballast I don't see a problem with it.

Hello, I am looking for help wiring a Ranco ETC temp controller back on to a 5 ton CHillking Chiller. I am unsure which connections need to go where inside the ranco controller . Power and temp are on but I do not know how to use the ranco controller to turn on the compressor, what to connect to common, and n/o or n/c

SmokeyMcP0t said:

Hello, I am looking for help wiring a Ranco ETC temp controller back on to a 5 ton CHillking Chiller. I am unsure which connections need to go where inside the ranco controller . Power and temp are on but I do not know how to use the ranco controller to turn on the compressor, what to connect to common, and n/o or n/c

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According to the pdf here it will depend on the supply voltage.
Inspect the wiring diagram. The "load" indication always describes the device being powered, in this case your chiller. The wire going to "COM" and also branching to the "load" device is going to be common or white. Apparently "C" seems to indicate where the sensor interrupts the voltage line in some of the diagrams. Diagram 4 is typical for 120volt wiring and figure 5 is for 240v. I don't see them using N/C in any of the diagrams. If you need further explanation I suggest calling Ranco in Plain City.

Is there an easy way to determine my supply voltage? And a further explanation of what that is. This controller is powered on by means of a standard wall outlet (on the far right block using the inputs labeled 120 and common). But the chiller is installed on 220. I have a few live wires I can test but I am unsure what to look for on a multi meter. So You are saying I positively need a branching wire ?I planned to use figure six but I am unsure which wire would be considered what. I hope this makes sense, thanks for your help. I can take whatever pictures necessary

Well from the looks of it you have the power to the controller wired correctly..which is 120v. You answered your question about the chiller being 240v. In this case you won't need to branch the common as you have 2 different voltages and will use fig 6.
Your picture is misleading as I cannot determine what wire that is feeding up through the bottom along with your control "power cord".
240v typically has 2 hots and a ground, there is no need for a common wire. Although, it is code to install 4 wire 240v now..which means 2 hots a ground and a neutral. In most cases the neutral is used to run an lcd panel or timer of a high voltage device such as a dryer or stove. The neutral allows one leg to be utilized to provide the need for 120v in addition to the main power which is 240. Devices such as ballasts only require 2 hots and a ground for over-load safety. I'm not exactly sure the requirement for a chiller. But by looking at the tabs where you wire in the chiller should tell the tale.
The problem I'm having with this diagram, is that it is not indicated whether or not it is only showing the 2 hot wires feeding the chiller aka "load" or whether it includes the ground wire. An educated guess is that it is only showing both hot wires of the 240v (which is basically 2 wires at 120v). In that thinking, where the 2 hot wires coming from the panel to your chiller go are simple. First..one wire goes continuously to the chiller and one gets wired into "C" and continues out of "N/O" to the device.
I would double check with the manufacturer that this is correct. These companies are used to questions like this. Do you follow me?