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sa.mokey
- 20
- 3
how does it work to get water to all areas of the plants roots?
oldskol4evr
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its a getto drip irrigation,,slowly emptying the jug,goes right down the stalk and works it way out,,garden trick ,so you dont feed weeds but only the plant,,just to try it,take a coke bottle,fill with water,poke a little hole in bottom and watch it,,slowly releases,and on mounds when you water ,it runs right down the hill,this way it slowly drips down the stalk and into the soil were it cant runoff,,try it,take a bottle to a plant outside and sit it right by the stalk of a flower or plant,,when the bottle is empty you will have a wet circle around it and it went deep instead of running off,,i have one grow i can get to easy and just have a milk jug buried beside the plant and just fill it every couple days,the top of soil is barely wet ,but root zone is alive and well,my other spot i have a 2 gal jug buired with just 2 hole in bottom,it feeds when the plant needs it,,this also keep them damn knats out your grows inside,cause the top drys quicker from the lights and you dont have issues with them little bastards
Organikz
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You toast the microherd as soon as you introduce nitrates. Anything that is organic that is in your soil isn't benefiting you at all...unless you've figured out how to do an organic living soil bottled salt nutrient grow.
I don't really know where you can go from here. Without mychorzai your plants roots cannot access the phos it needs.
You need a cal/mag. The stuff in your soil isn't doing anything for the plants. If you're feeding light step up a bit.
I don't really know where you can go from here. Without mychorzai your plants roots cannot access the phos it needs.
You need a cal/mag. The stuff in your soil isn't doing anything for the plants. If you're feeding light step up a bit.
whitepistols
- 174
- 63
@Organikz " You toast the micro herd as soon as you add nitrates"........show me the science behind that statement because its bullshit period...
Here is the basics of nitrogen
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrification
Here is a study between synthetic and organic ferts and there affects
http://scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=ja.2010.102.110&org=11
Bacteria do not know what is organic what is synthetic and neither does the plant. The differance between synthetic and a animal by product aka organic fert is the carbon content. Also animal by products are a slow release version of fert typically, where synthetics do not need to go through a conversion proces to be viable for use by the plant.
Its like saying that if you use any inorganic substance to grow a organic crop with it is no longer organic. Again that is a false statement because there are inorganic substances vital to sustaining life of that crop, yet everyone uses it and still states thier crop is organic.
Bacteria have to have nitrogen to live. Yes you can kill bacteria by going to toxic levels, guano and chiken manure are 2 good examples and yes if you use anhydrous ammonia you will kill the bacteria for a breif period.
If you use your inputs responsibly you will not kill the bacteria herds reguardless what you choose to use as a input.
The only reason I replied is to stop the misinformation being given out. To the op did not mean to derail the thread but I am trying to get the facts out in the open where they belong.
Here is the basics of nitrogen
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrification
Here is a study between synthetic and organic ferts and there affects
http://scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=ja.2010.102.110&org=11
Bacteria do not know what is organic what is synthetic and neither does the plant. The differance between synthetic and a animal by product aka organic fert is the carbon content. Also animal by products are a slow release version of fert typically, where synthetics do not need to go through a conversion proces to be viable for use by the plant.
Its like saying that if you use any inorganic substance to grow a organic crop with it is no longer organic. Again that is a false statement because there are inorganic substances vital to sustaining life of that crop, yet everyone uses it and still states thier crop is organic.
Bacteria have to have nitrogen to live. Yes you can kill bacteria by going to toxic levels, guano and chiken manure are 2 good examples and yes if you use anhydrous ammonia you will kill the bacteria for a breif period.
If you use your inputs responsibly you will not kill the bacteria herds reguardless what you choose to use as a input.
The only reason I replied is to stop the misinformation being given out. To the op did not mean to derail the thread but I am trying to get the facts out in the open where they belong.
Organikz
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- 263
Holy crap dude you are 100% right. I had always had it hammered into my head that bottled nutes will toast the soil biology or throw it into a crazy tailspin. After actually reading up on it because you pointed it out it you are correct. As a matter of fact soil life actually eats synthetic ferts.
That's my bad
whitepistols
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All good, not trying to flame ya down....Carbon is the secret and its all good. This damn love we have for this mistress is complex and info is illusive. Much love, and keep growing hard as you can.
Organikz
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Sorry OP. Didn't mean to derail your thread with common garden myths.
What exactly do you feed? How much compared to what is recommended and how frequently?
Since learning what I've learned...heres my suggestion...compost or ewc/fulvic acid/aloe slurry.
Clackamas coots fix it all compost/ewc slurry
Add a cup of compost or ewc to a 1 qt mason jar
Also add 2.5 mil fulvic acid
1tsp aloe Vera or 1/4 tsp powdered aloe
Fill the rest of the jar with Luke warm water. Not hot at all but just not cold.
Put the lid on and shake the crap out of it. Let that sit for 30 minutes open the top to replenish oxygen and close the top. Shake just enough to move things around and create surface agitation unless it's already gone to slurry. Let it sit for 15 more minutes.
Spread this slurry like peanut butter around the base of the plant. Basically where it would cover the root zone, if you're in a small pot this would be the whole top layer, but don't allow it to make contact with the trunk.
☆ since your running into phos defficiency i would add a 1/4 cup of either bone meal or sea bird guano high phos.
People automatically think a deficiency means add more. It can be more complicated. There is a constant competition for nutrient in the soil. It could be caused by an imbalance in nutrients or biological life. Phosphorus is the most used throughout the life cycle as far as macros and a plant uses more calcium than phosphorus through its life cycle.
Micro nutes are overlooked yet they are responsible for processing and utilizing NPK. Sulfur is a must. Gypsum is a great source of calcium and sulfur.
Trace elements are way overlooked.
As @whitepistols mentioned carbon is your friend as are minerals obtained from rock dust. The best source is basalt which is igneous rock. Think of lush and vigorous growth in areas with volcanoes. They sell small 5 lb bags for too much.
I buy decent quality lava rock. A bag of flowerock runs around $17 but I had enough in 1 bag to make the rock dust and aeration I need in conjunction with uncharged biochar to make 2cf with highest recommended rock dust amendment.
Flowerock comes in 1.5 c.f. bags and is about 3/4 pieces. I double bag it in sand bags and use a tamper and give each sand bag a good few hits with a hand tamper. When you open the bags you end up with all sizes including dust. It's ideal to sift and run through different size screens and then I put all the dust in a new sandbag, labeled of course. Then what doesn't make it through the sifter is put through a milk crate. What falls through is bagged. I do no till so I also keep larger chunks to line the bottom of my containers. If you're running smaller container keep to pieces 3/8 or smaller for the base mix
I know this was long winded but I have learned the hard way and ledslead told me to make my mix and have it tested. Add amendments from there. If your minerals are right deficiencies are generally actual deficiencies and not lockouts.
Lockouts are hard to deal with. I finally unlocked calcium from nitro tox and now I'm running into phos issues due to high calcium.
What exactly do you feed? How much compared to what is recommended and how frequently?
Since learning what I've learned...heres my suggestion...compost or ewc/fulvic acid/aloe slurry.
Clackamas coots fix it all compost/ewc slurry
Add a cup of compost or ewc to a 1 qt mason jar
Also add 2.5 mil fulvic acid
1tsp aloe Vera or 1/4 tsp powdered aloe
Fill the rest of the jar with Luke warm water. Not hot at all but just not cold.
Put the lid on and shake the crap out of it. Let that sit for 30 minutes open the top to replenish oxygen and close the top. Shake just enough to move things around and create surface agitation unless it's already gone to slurry. Let it sit for 15 more minutes.
Spread this slurry like peanut butter around the base of the plant. Basically where it would cover the root zone, if you're in a small pot this would be the whole top layer, but don't allow it to make contact with the trunk.
☆ since your running into phos defficiency i would add a 1/4 cup of either bone meal or sea bird guano high phos.
People automatically think a deficiency means add more. It can be more complicated. There is a constant competition for nutrient in the soil. It could be caused by an imbalance in nutrients or biological life. Phosphorus is the most used throughout the life cycle as far as macros and a plant uses more calcium than phosphorus through its life cycle.
Micro nutes are overlooked yet they are responsible for processing and utilizing NPK. Sulfur is a must. Gypsum is a great source of calcium and sulfur.
Trace elements are way overlooked.
As @whitepistols mentioned carbon is your friend as are minerals obtained from rock dust. The best source is basalt which is igneous rock. Think of lush and vigorous growth in areas with volcanoes. They sell small 5 lb bags for too much.
I buy decent quality lava rock. A bag of flowerock runs around $17 but I had enough in 1 bag to make the rock dust and aeration I need in conjunction with uncharged biochar to make 2cf with highest recommended rock dust amendment.
Flowerock comes in 1.5 c.f. bags and is about 3/4 pieces. I double bag it in sand bags and use a tamper and give each sand bag a good few hits with a hand tamper. When you open the bags you end up with all sizes including dust. It's ideal to sift and run through different size screens and then I put all the dust in a new sandbag, labeled of course. Then what doesn't make it through the sifter is put through a milk crate. What falls through is bagged. I do no till so I also keep larger chunks to line the bottom of my containers. If you're running smaller container keep to pieces 3/8 or smaller for the base mix
I know this was long winded but I have learned the hard way and ledslead told me to make my mix and have it tested. Add amendments from there. If your minerals are right deficiencies are generally actual deficiencies and not lockouts.
Lockouts are hard to deal with. I finally unlocked calcium from nitro tox and now I'm running into phos issues due to high calcium.
dnewsome2
- 2,020
- 163
Sorry you're having that problem I know how much that can suck. If I had to take a second guess I would say maybe there is too much heat at the top of your canopy. Maybe when you switch to flower you drop the lights down? It could be the combination of all the things we talked about. Sometimes raising your light even two inches can bring temperatures down quite a bit. I know you're not a rookie and you probably already know about this. Sometimes it helps to take a thermometer that recordes your high and low temperatures and clip it to the top of the canopy. Good luck man I hope you get this figured out let me know.
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sa.mokey
- 20
- 3
. Yea I thought initially it would be a light problem but maybe I should have taken better more detailed pictures the light fell lower than usual but no burn but one leaf I flushed them last night and she is already growing white pistols on her tops again
My soil pH is between 6.5 and 7.1 just adding the plus or minus 3 that this tool measures for accuracy. I will see where thus goes once she dries out completely
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sa.mokey
- 20
- 3
I think I will try some humic fulvic since it seems to be unanimous as a way to salvage my girl
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sa.mokey
- 20
- 3
I'm starting to think it's a lockout problem aswell because I've used these nutes before with more than full strength and got a wonder harvest from one plant when I started been using them ever since with no issues other than not giving enough it's like this is the hardest thing for me because I've been spoiled from start with no serious issues in farming until now lol. But I want to tell you all Good or bad information given.... I appreciate all of you guys/gals help and concern to get me over the hump and make good of my somewhat unpleasant experience. Thank you all for the love and my you keep pouring it in until she is healthy Lil mama again
dnewsome2
- 2,020
- 163
They still look good,you're on top of it they'll be fine. You'll just have to spend a little more time with the ladies LOL
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sa.mokey
- 20
- 3
I'm starting to think it's a lockout problem aswell because I've used these nutes before with more than full strength and got a wonder harvest from one plant when I started been using them ever since with no issues other than not giving enough it's like this is the hardest thing for me because I've been spoiled from start with no serious issues in farming until now lol. But I want to tell you all God or bad information given.... I appreciate all of you guys/gals help and concern to get me over the hump and make good of my somewhat unpleasant experience. Thank you all for the love and my you keep pouring it in until she is healthy Lil mama again
S
sa.mokey
- 20
- 3
i will update everyone within a week on how she is doing with pictures of the new growth or if anything else becomes an issue
S
sa.mokey
- 20
- 3
i could careless about what happens to this thread as long as a solution is teh outcome because there is no one one way to do anything as far as gardening goes when you dont let nature do it so all info is good info as long as you have teh mind to discern between useful and apply and the info that doesnt. i will try a more organic grow in the future because of the wisdom i would gain from knowing many facets on how to do the same thing and be able to adapt when the change is needed i thank you for your information just even taking the time to offer insight that is very much appreciated
Organikz
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Water only super soil recipe is great. Just water her when she's dry. No guessing games or pHing
After thinking further about adding bottled nutes no an organic living soil another group of concerns is raised...sugar signaling interruption, nitrogen and phosphorus fixation, nutrient competition. They're looking only at the soil from what I've seen.
Are they making sure all natural processes are taking place in a proper manner in which genetic expressions are at their maximum potential. How does it affect yields?
The real question being why bother using living soil if you're using bottled nutes? You don't need the middle man.
After thinking further about adding bottled nutes no an organic living soil another group of concerns is raised...sugar signaling interruption, nitrogen and phosphorus fixation, nutrient competition. They're looking only at the soil from what I've seen.
Are they making sure all natural processes are taking place in a proper manner in which genetic expressions are at their maximum potential. How does it affect yields?
The real question being why bother using living soil if you're using bottled nutes? You don't need the middle man.
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whitepistols
- 174
- 63
If you are using fox farm nutes 1 bottle in there system is called bushdoctor boomerang. It has a higher % of minerals than normally used.
Get a bottle and feed it to your plant. I do not remember the list that is in it but know 1 is boron. Fox farms is not a very balanced nute if just using the trio set. Your plant having all those lovely tops is needing more of the minerals. If your minerals are not balanced you will go in lock out.
I have used fox farms products and that boomerang will bring a damn near dead plant back to life. I have bought ornamentals in the death row areas of plant nureserys for pennies gave a feed of it to them and have a healthy plant in 2 weeks.
Fulvic is a great item to use. Trueth be told I am a salt grower and I use fulvics religiously. I think whats going on is your heavy on some minerals and light on others. That is the cause of the lock out, since your using fox farm nutes there mineral product is the boomerang. Here is the mineral wheel if you want to know why lock out issues here is a link that explains imbalances, look at this mineral wheel,
https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...r-making-nutrient-deficiency-diagnoses.60485/
Get a bottle and feed it to your plant. I do not remember the list that is in it but know 1 is boron. Fox farms is not a very balanced nute if just using the trio set. Your plant having all those lovely tops is needing more of the minerals. If your minerals are not balanced you will go in lock out.
I have used fox farms products and that boomerang will bring a damn near dead plant back to life. I have bought ornamentals in the death row areas of plant nureserys for pennies gave a feed of it to them and have a healthy plant in 2 weeks.
Fulvic is a great item to use. Trueth be told I am a salt grower and I use fulvics religiously. I think whats going on is your heavy on some minerals and light on others. That is the cause of the lock out, since your using fox farm nutes there mineral product is the boomerang. Here is the mineral wheel if you want to know why lock out issues here is a link that explains imbalances, look at this mineral wheel,
https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...r-making-nutrient-deficiency-diagnoses.60485/
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whitepistols
- 174
- 63
Your showing calcium defficiancy because there is not enough boron in the trio set you are using.
The defficiany link in the above post can shed some information on this. Here is a soil feed chart showing how much boomerang to use
I hope this helps you out. The plant in my avatar was grown with fox farms.
I tell everyone even if your not using fox farms get and keep that boomerang around because it will snap a plant out of defficiances fast within a week at the most.
The defficiany link in the above post can shed some information on this. Here is a soil feed chart showing how much boomerang to use
I hope this helps you out. The plant in my avatar was grown with fox farms.
I tell everyone even if your not using fox farms get and keep that boomerang around because it will snap a plant out of defficiances fast within a week at the most.
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Organikz
- 3,562
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Fulvic is da bomb. Works extremely well when mixed with liquid kelp or kelp meal. I've brought a dead peppermint plant back to life with it.
I put some in my girlfriends roses so they would last. The sons of bitches rooted!
Fulvic acid is so effective they have done experiments where the plants weren't supplied light but continued to grow. It keeps photosynthesis rolling somehow.
It's absorbed through cell wall membrane and doesn't need roots to enter.
I put some in my girlfriends roses so they would last. The sons of bitches rooted!
Fulvic acid is so effective they have done experiments where the plants weren't supplied light but continued to grow. It keeps photosynthesis rolling somehow.
It's absorbed through cell wall membrane and doesn't need roots to enter.
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