Plant leaves turn yellow after moving to flowering phase

Aqua Man · Jul 22, 2020

SourdoughSoldier said:
Very cool. I have tried flushing but sometimes struggle with other problems that take precedence. Spider mites have come and gone and they cause everything to go yellow.

Sunshine #4 Mix. I agree nutrient buildup COULD do this, but it happens so quickly (within 2-3 days) of moving to flower the last 5/6 crops.

I have struggled with spider mites before and that makes the yellowing worse.

Also when I overwater, the yellowing gets worse. I don't make a habit of overwatering but when I flush it can take 4-5 days to dry up and plants don't love it. But I think I could have a stronger root system so they use it up quicker.

Pots may be a bit to big for a good wet/dry cycle. Is this always the case even in veg? Sunshine 4 has quite a bit of perlite (25-35%) are the pots on the floor? Cold root zones can also affect uptake.

I think there is more than 1 issue here

Beachwalker · Jul 22, 2020

Use distilled or RO water

SourdoughSoldier · Jul 22, 2020

Aqua Man said:
Pots may be a bit to big for a good wet/dry cycle. Is this always the case even in veg? Sunshine 4 has quite a bit of perlite (25-35%) are the pots on the floor? Cold root zones can also affect uptake.

I think there is more than 1 issue here

Pots are on the floor. I have made changes already and made the pots smaller once already. I am using the Haviland Plastic High Performance 4 gallon. I don't think cold root zones are the issue, the last few months temperatures don't get below 16-17 in my rooms.

Beachwalker · Jul 22, 2020

In my opinion you're not going to grow optimally without properly caring for your medium; if you take a slurry test post results, good luck.

SourdoughSoldier · Jul 22, 2020

Beachwalker said:
In my opinion you're not going to grow optimally without properly caring for your medium; if you take a slurry test post results, good luck.

View attachment 1004025

BW I agree with you that leaching + flushing is optimal. I never said anywhere it isn't.

I think the sudden onset of symptoms is because of the sudden change over (which seems like ethylene toxicity, or impure burning of co2)

I will do more research into sunshine mix #4 thank you. Any other recommended soils I should look into?

Aqua Man · Jul 22, 2020

Beachwalker said:
In my opinion you're not going to grow optimally without properly caring for your medium; if you take a slurry test post results, good luck.

View attachment 1004025

Yup I grow in it also. If synthetic nutrients (salts) you need to water with runoff, leeching excess available nutrients from the soil. With organic nutrients no run off is really needed because organic nutrients are not immediately available and the chance of toxicity is much lower because of this.

If you water to runoff with organics you can lose your available nutrients since they become available slowly.

Since synthetic nutrients are fully available for the most part you want to water with runoff to prevent a build up.

So it really depends on the type of nutrients you use and how available they are.

SourdoughSoldier · Jul 22, 2020

Aqua Man said:
Yup I grow in it also. If synthetic nutrients (salts) you need to water with runoff, leeching excess available nutrients from the soil. With organic nutrients no run off is really needed because organic nutrients are not immediately available and the chance of toxicity is much lower because of this.

If you water to runoff with organics you can lose your available nutrients since they become available slowly.

Since synthetic nutrients are fully available for the most part you want to water with runoff to prevent a build up.

So it really depends on the type of nutrients you use and how available they are.

FloraSeries®

FloraSeries® is the original 3-part hydroponic base nutrient system. Over 40 years ago, when the other guys were still in grade school, our scientists were hard at work with a mission: give growers a…

generalhydroponics.com

I am using the flora series, but on their website it looks like they were made for a hydroponic system? Lol??

I will curate a list of all my nutrients now and see if I can figure out if they are organic (not likely they are all organic)

Bought some tomato plants and chucked them in each room, we will see how they do tomorrow.

Aqua Man · Jul 22, 2020

SourdoughSoldier said:
FloraSeries®

FloraSeries® is the original 3-part hydroponic base nutrient system. Over 40 years ago, when the other guys were still in grade school, our scientists were hard at work with a mission: give growers a…

generalhydroponics.com

I am using the flora series, but on their website it looks like they were made for a hydroponic system? Lol??

I will curate a list of all my nutrients now and see if I can figure out if they are organic (not likely they are all organic)

Bought some tomato plants and chucked them in each room, we will see how they do tomorrow.

Then @Beachwalker is correct you should be watering to runoff.

Tornadohunting420 · Jul 22, 2020

SourdoughSoldier said:
Here are some pictures. It's all encompassing on the plant (not only higher or lower branches). It progresses for a week or 2 and I end up defoliating the plant around day 15-20 anyways.

It's happened consistently the last 3 crops, I thought it could have been spider mites (constant battle) but the last crop had NO pests and still turned out like this.

The plants end up usually doing fine but I still think I can improve. I'm so curious what is happening to my babies.

Di you go right to bloom nutes ? Or do you flush before flowering ? Lots could be going on ph issue? Humidity well you said u have a.c. is it blowing in the plants ? What's the lights on and lights off temps ?

Beachwalker · Jul 22, 2020

GH Flora Trio drops my 8.9 tap water down to 5.6 so I recommend you also start adjusting pH to 6.2 - 6.4 for best results, best of luck

Dirtbag · Jul 22, 2020

Not ph'ing, no runoff ever, pots on the floor, dropping N in flower.. What kinda circus act is teaching you how to grow?

Agree there is several things not right. And I agree the fact that it happens when you switch rooms is a tell that it could be environmental as Aqua pointed out. Or it could be the result of several things gone wrong. Transition is stressful and plants need to be on point to get through it in good health.

Aqua Man · Jul 22, 2020

Dirtbag said:
Not ph'ing, no runoff ever, pots on the floor, dropping N in flower.. What kinda circus act is teaching you how to grow?

Agree there is several things not right. And I agree the fact that it happens when you switch rooms is a tell that it could be environmental as Aqua pointed out. Or it could be the result of several things gone wrong. Transition is stressful and plants need to be on point to get through it in good health.

Yeah there is a few thing contributing I would say. This is a good summary.

SourdoughSoldier · Jul 22, 2020

Dirtbag said:
Not ph'ing, no runoff ever, pots on the floor, dropping N in flower.. What kinda circus act is teaching you how to grow?

Agree there is several things not right. And I agree the fact that it happens when you switch rooms is a tell that it could be environmental as Aqua pointed out. Or it could be the result of several things gone wrong. Transition is stressful and plants need to be on point to get through it in good health.

Dropping N in flower -> I am not sure what you mean. My feed schedule has my Micro INCREASING through flower phase.

Pots on the floor -> Making the roots colder? So it slows them down?

No pH + run off -> I agree with you guys this needs to be looked into. I got constantly told no run off but everything I read contradicted it.

Tornadohunting420 said:
Di you go right to bloom nutes ? Or do you flush before flowering ? Lots could be going on ph issue? Humidity well you said u have a.c. is it blowing in the plants ? What's the lights on and lights off temps ?

I do not flush before flowering, that is a good idea. I have flopped between going straight to bloom nutes. It didn't seem to make a difference (but if I'm not flushing properly, I am not sure it will).

AC is not blowing on the plants. Day temperature around 25-26, night temperature between 19-22. Since it's summer I have fans blowing at night or it sits at 25 all day.

I agree with you guys theres lots of room for improvement. I'll see if I can find a picture in my phone of one of the last crops I had. Thank you all sincerely,

SourdoughSoldier · Jul 22, 2020

Canadagrower said:
Man those leaves look really dark. Maybe the light but seems like too much nitrogen. It is sucking up nitrogen like a mofo. As suggested above, ph may be off or over nute. Sucks flushing all the money in the pot down the drain but if it saves your girls, do it. I always found a sweet spot for PH. I usually ph to 6.6 in soil and drop to 6.2 or 3 and start over every 3 waterings. Just makes sure I get all out of the soil and avoid nute def.

I don't remember exactly where in the timeframe these pictures were from. They were from a couple crops ago. I was just getting pictures to help.

Every 3 waterings, that means 2 nute to 1 water/flush correct? That's the ratio I have been following.

Dirtbag · Jul 23, 2020

With the pots on the floor maybe there was just no means of dealing with runoff and that's why they didnt want you doing it that way? Plants should ideally be up off the floor, and have either a drain table or tray or some method of collecting/discarding the runoff. You dont want plants on the floor sitting in puddles.

As for my comment about dropping N, I just read you switched to bloom nutrients which usually means an NPK with low N and high P and K. Which if the EC is kept in the same range means less N usually. But you're right I dont really know what you're feeding.

SourdoughSoldier · Jul 23, 2020

@Dirtbag The old pots were HUGE, had run off with saucers under it. Was 10x the work and they were my first couple crops so they were terrible anyways.

Went to smaller pots, but I am still considering going smaller still (or maybe 4 gallon but shorter + wider).

There's too many plants to have saucers or a drain tray, and I have a low ceiling (maybe 8') so there's no need for huge pots.

I switch to bloom nutrients after a few days to a week after moving them over. I continue to feed Micro/Grow/Bloom through flower. So all my bases should be covered.

Would posting a feeding schedule be helpful?

jannw · Jul 23, 2020

I had the same problem...

Tornadohunting420 · Jul 23, 2020

SourdoughSoldier said:
Dropping N in flower -> I am not sure what you mean. My feed schedule has my Micro INCREASING through flower phase.

Pots on the floor -> Making the roots colder? So it slows them down?

No pH + run off -> I agree with you guys this needs to be looked into. I got constantly told no run off but everything I read contradicted it.

I do not flush before flowering, that is a good idea. I have flopped between going straight to bloom nutes. It didn't seem to make a difference (but if I'm not flushing properly, I am not sure it will).

AC is not blowing on the plants. Day temperature around 25-26, night temperature between 19-22. Since it's summer I have fans blowing at night or it sits at 25 all day.

I agree with you guys theres lots of room for improvement. I'll see if I can find a picture in my phone of one of the last crops I had. Thank you all sincerely,

Put them up a lil bit on something I raise my pots off the basement floor n yes u should have run off u dont need to always but if u dont get any runoff the nutes are getting built up in the soil which will eventually cause nutrient lockout. I use soup cans etc to keep em off the floor even a skid is good just paint it white.

basscaptain · Jul 23, 2020

SourdoughSoldier said:
@Dirtbag The old pots were HUGE, had run off with saucers under it. Was 10x the work and they were my first couple crops so they were terrible anyways.

Went to smaller pots, but I am still considering going smaller still (or maybe 4 gallon but shorter + wider).

There's too many plants to have saucers or a drain tray, and I have a low ceiling (maybe 8') so there's no need for huge pots.

I switch to bloom nutrients after a few days to a week after moving them over. I continue to feed Micro/Grow/Bloom through flower. So all my bases should be covered.

Would posting a feeding schedule be helpful?

I can all ready tell you ........ your in deep but can turn it around...... listen to these guys they know there shit..............................

If your going to grow by eye Like I do............................ you need More time but the only way to lrean is doing it......... you don't need smaller pots......................... you need to water 1 day, feed MKP 1 day, water 1 day, feed cal-mag 1 day, water 1 day, feed Potassium Nitrate 1 day and etc....

good luck

Tornadohunting420 · Jul 23, 2020

basscaptain said:
I can all ready tell you ........ your in deep but can turn it around...... listen to these guys they know there shit..............................

If your going to grow by eye Like I do............................ you need More time but the only way to lrean is doing it......... you don't need smaller pots......................... you need to water 1 day, feed MKP 1 day, water 1 day, feed cal-mag 1 day, water 1 day, feed Potassium Nitrate 1 day and etc....

good luck

Good info n if it's too much work your in the wrong business Cannabis takes alot of work man to achieve good crops constantly trimming tying watering checking temps harvesting filling the room up again. Maybe try 1 or 2 monsters veg longer with heavy lst . Less waterings fill the space right in. Big pots 20 g would work .

Plant leaves turn yellow after moving to flowering phase

Aqua Man

Beachwalker

SourdoughSoldier

Beachwalker

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Aqua Man

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Dirtbag

Aqua Man

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