Plant leaves turn yellow after moving to flowering phase

[SourdoughSoldier]

Hey all, brand new to the forum and glad to be here.

My veg has always been pretty healthy + doing well my first couple crops, however I have noticed my leaves started to yellow within a few days of moving into 12/12.

My veg is 18/6, and I've got an exhaust fan + stable temperatures and fans.

My flower room has a CO2 machine, and AC in it.

Within the first week of moving the plants over, they seem to get stressed and start to yellow. Most of the time I have been able to recover and have a good crop, but I feel I could be doing something better.

First post so let me know if I missed anything or how I can help. Cheers

 

[SourdoughSoldier]

Here are some pictures. It's all encompassing on the plant (not only higher or lower branches). It progresses for a week or 2 and I end up defoliating the plant around day 15-20 anyways.

It's happened consistently the last 3 crops, I thought it could have been spider mites (constant battle) but the last crop had NO pests and still turned out like this.

The plants end up usually doing fine but I still think I can improve. I'm so curious what is happening to my babies.

 

[rayi]

I used to have that. I started using grow nutes longer into flower and using less bloom. Plants use a lot of nitrogen during the stretch

 

[Madbud]

pH?

 

[Aqua Man]

CO2 machine you say? What kind?

I would be looking into ethylene tox.

 

[SourdoughSoldier]

I used to have that. I started using grow nutes longer into flower and using less bloom. Plants use a lot of nitrogen during the stretch

Interesting, I could see that. I have tried Veg nutes for the first week of flower, and also bloom nutrients the 1st week in the last 2 crops. No noticeable difference but maybe I try veg nutes for a week longer again.

pH?

Never tried or looked into it. The people I am learning from NEVER test pH, and NEVER flush with runoff.

I am not convinced what they are doing is correct, but they run a large operation. Every time I try a weekly or biweekly flush, my plants get stressed from being overwatered. This could be caused by a not strong enough root system though (I am still learning).

CO2 machine you say? What kind?

I would be looking into ethylene tox.

It's quite an old machine that still seems to be working. I inherited it from someone who left this house. I will look into ethylene tox and report back.

Thank you so much guys for all the help! I hope to be able to give back soon to this community.

 

[Aqua Man]

Interesting, I could see that. I have tried Veg nutes for the first week of flower, and also bloom nutrients the 1st week in the last 2 crops. No noticeable difference but maybe I try veg nutes for a week longer again.



Never tried or looked into it. The people I am learning from NEVER test pH, and NEVER flush with runoff.

I am not convinced what they are doing is correct, but they run a large operation. Every time I try a weekly or biweekly flush, my plants get stressed from being overwatered. This could be caused by a not strong enough root system though (I am still learning).




It's quite an old machine that still seems to be working. I inherited it from someone who left this house. I will look into ethylene tox and report back.

Thank you so much guys for all the help! I hope to be able to give back soon to this community.

Yeah that's sounds about right. I'm even more convinced that's the case with it being old.

 

[Madbud]

Try adding an ounce of apple cider vinegar to your next gallon of water.

 

[Beachwalker]

The people I am learning from NEVER test pH, and NEVER flush with runoff

^

 

[SourdoughSoldier]

Yeah that's sounds about right. I'm even more convinced that's the case with it being old.

These are what I am using.

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Controls-10-Burner-Dioxide-Generator/dp/B00CEYX83Q?th=1

I believe the Ares is a natural gas burner, but I don't know what that means. I never set it up, nor do I have to ever change anything. I think the propane ones are the ones you have to refill pretty consistently but I've never touched anything.

I can't figure out what natural gas means and what it burns, to see if ethlyene tox would be a byproduct.

 

[SourdoughSoldier]

The people I am learning from NEVER test pH, and NEVER flush with runoff

^

I am working for them. The first couple crops were complete failures because they gave me not enough guidance and too much work.

I have finally had a few decent crops on my own, but I am still on thin ice. It's difficult to change something and take a risk when 1 more bad crop could mean I am finished.

I am NOT saying what they do is correct. I believe + know I can eventually do better (with resources as helpful as you guys, how could I not).

But I need to take things slow and change them 1 by 1.

 

[Aqua Man]

I am working for them. The first couple crops were complete failures because they gave me not enough guidance and too much work.

I have finally had a few decent crops on my own, but I am still on thin ice. It's difficult to change something and take a risk when 1 more bad crop could mean I am finished.

I am NOT saying what they do is correct. I believe + know I can eventually do better (with resources as helpful as you guys, how could I not).

But I need to take things slow and change them 1 by 1.

If fully organic nutrients you don't need runoff. If using adequate source water you don't need to ph unless there are issues with precipitate Wich is not likely with organics.

These are what I am using.

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Controls-10-Burner-Dioxide-Generator/dp/B00CEYX83Q?th=1

I believe the Ares is a natural gas burner, but I don't know what that means. I never set it up, nor do I have to ever change anything. I think the propane ones are the ones you have to refill pretty consistently but I've never touched anything.

I can't figure out what natural gas means and what it burns, to see if ethlyene tox would be a byproduct.

Ethylene from burners is usually cause by a inefficient burner. If the burners themselves are older then it's even more likely the case. Non the less small amounts are produced since non that I know of are % efficient so some ventilation is needed usually at intervals when using a burner.

 

[Beachwalker]

I am working for them. The first couple crops were complete failures because they gave me not enough guidance and too much work.

I have finally had a few decent crops on my own, but I am still on thin ice. It's difficult to change something and take a risk when 1 more bad crop could mean I am finished.

I am NOT saying what they do is correct. I believe + know I can eventually do better (with resources as helpful as you guys, how could I not).

But I need to take things slow and change them 1 by 1.

what medium is that?

 

[SourdoughSoldier]

If fully organic nutrients you don't need runoff. If using adequate source water you don't need to ph unless there are issues with precipitate Wich is not likely with organics.

Very interesting. I very likely have adequate source water. Not sure about if my nutrients are organic (doubt it, but I'll check them all out)

Ethylene from burners is usually cause by a inefficient burner. If the burners themselves are older then it's even more likely the case. Non the less small amounts are produced since non that I know of are % efficient so some ventilation is needed usually at intervals when using a burner.

Yeah this is what I am thinking it is too. I am going to buy a tomato plant as an indicator plant and see if it gets hurt. Will report back in 24 hours.

As for solutions, is it possible to crack open the door an inch so that eythlene leaks out? I understand CO2 would leak out as well so I am not sure if this is the right solution.

 

[SourdoughSoldier]

what medium is that?

I use soil

 

[Beachwalker]

The people I am learning from NEVER test pH, and NEVER flush with runoff

^

I thought so, so I reiterate this is your problem above, you've got salt buildup in your soil causing all kinds of lockouts; perform a slurry test and post results

recommend you start adjusting pH to 6.5 and gently flush every third watering with 2x the normal watering volume for best results, good luck.

 

[Aqua Man]

What soil and what nutrients?

I would agree that nutrient buildup could do this. But if it's as acute as you say (happening in less than a few days) I would start looking elsewhere where first. Something that comes on that fast exactly when changing rooms leads me to think environment first.

 

[Beachwalker]

Soil Ph Slurry Test - Step By Step With Photos

Knowing the pH of your growing medium is important from time to time. The soil pH slurry test is the easiest way of finding the true pH level of your soil based growing medium. For this you'll need: pH Meter - Cheap Amazon pH Pen - Blue Lab pH Pen - Blue Lab Soil pH Pen Cup or Container -...

www.thcfarmer.com

 

[SourdoughSoldier]

I thought so, so I reiterate this is your problem above, you've got salt buildup in your soil causing all kinds of lockouts; perform a slurry test and post results

recommend you start adjusting pH to 6.5 and gently flush every third watering with 2x the normal watering volume for best results, good luck.

Very cool. I have tried flushing but sometimes struggle with other problems that take precedence. Spider mites have come and gone and they cause everything to go yellow.

What soil and what nutrients?

I would agree that nutrient buildup could do this. But if it's as acute as you say (happening in less than a few days) I would start looking elsewhere where first. Something that comes on that fast exactly when changing rooms leads me to think environment first.

Sunshine #4 Mix. I agree nutrient buildup COULD do this, but it happens so quickly (within 2-3 days) of moving to flower the last 5/6 crops.

I have struggled with spider mites before and that makes the yellowing worse.

Also when I overwater, the yellowing gets worse. I don't make a habit of overwatering but when I flush it can take 4-5 days to dry up and plants don't love it. But I think I could have a stronger root system so they use it up quicker.

 

[SourdoughSoldier]

Soil Ph Slurry Test - Step By Step With Photos

Knowing the pH of your growing medium is important from time to time. The soil pH slurry test is the easiest way of finding the true pH level of your soil based growing medium. For this you'll need: pH Meter - Cheap Amazon pH Pen - Blue Lab pH Pen - Blue Lab Soil pH Pen Cup or Container -...

www.thcfarmer.com

Very cool, I will give this a try as well. I'm about to make a list of all the nutrients I use and figure out if they change pH or not.

What does it mean by distilled water? I have a high end filter at home, would this work? Or a type of bottled water?