Post UC Questions and Concerns Here

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Chronic Monster

Chronic Monster

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Crazy , gettogrow was just saying how it saved the day. wanna take a pic of the roots now or did u already pull everything? the new root growth did look better in that ln that last pic.
 
UCHQ

UCHQ

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Using teas doesn't work over night which is why you should stick if you're going probiotic.

It's important to note that roots tend to look less pristine when using teas in water culture, but this lack of asthetic perfection shouldn't be mistaken for root problems.

As long are you're using a clean tea at a ultra low dosage you can do very well, just adjust to roots changing in appearence. The conditions that support ben. bio looks similar to the onset of pathogen issues.

One of the easiest ways to determine whether or not plant roots are diseased (outside of plant pathology) is to examine the root tips. If the root tips look healthy this is a better indicator of root health than the mass which can discolor even when healthy.

Having said this, Onesparks plants could be doing better than it appears...but the plants may lag while recovering. In situations where antibiotic cures (H2O2, Zone, UC Roots) fail it's proven to us that micro-biologically active aerated teas where the only thing to offer success. Specifically Red Worm based teas, containing no animal manure and low in carbs and proteins, as these can tend to foul water culture systems and feed pathogens.

Keep in mind.


Teas can lead to failure when used heavily, as one might in soil applications. Use in very low dosages to avoid building up potentially harmful biofilms...which can offer habitat to opportunistic diseases such as pythium, fusarium, etc.
 
U

UCCONFUSION

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your plastic is a joke. I had 2 SEPARATE systems break on the FIRST grow. Pay for thicker plastic.
 
P

phup

90
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Motherlode - BTK is a bacteria, harmless to humans (although I would not recommend drinking it), that is often used as a foilar to kill tree caterpillars. You can find it in the gardening section of Home Depot. The water culture/soil drench version is called BTI and is usually only found at specialty gardening stores, but either version works effectively. Run it for 3-4 hours then change out the rez.

Here's a quick FAQ
 
motherlode

motherlode

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Motherlode - BTK is a bacteria, harmless to humans (although I would not recommend drinking it), that is often used as a foilar to kill tree caterpillars. You can find it in the gardening section of Home Depot. The water culture/soil drench version is called BTI and is usually only found at specialty gardening stores, but either version works effectively. Run it for 3-4 hours then change out the rez.

Here's a quick FAQ


ah shit yeah Im familiar with BT - the K threw me off - lol thx for the reply
 
S

smokey_waters

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Hi,

I'm flipping them today.

I've got the water level at the bottom of the net pot. Should I just keep it there??

Also, I'm finally getting my top-off rez going. If I have a 400gph submersible pump to keep the nutes circulating, do I need to put in probiotics?
 
Phaivor

Phaivor

41
6
does any one know the name of the marine tool that looks like a balloon that you can pump up inside of tube and stops water from flowing???

I found it , it is a

Cylindrical Bag Plug, 3" with 2' Inflation Hose from (usabluebook.com)

• Plug a pipe through a tee opening
• Sizes for 3" through 36" pipe
• Prevent flooding of pit when replacing a section of sewer line


Item: 24558
Weight: 0.5 lbs
Catalog Price: $101.95
 
281731
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
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I found it , it is a

Cylindrical Bag Plug, 3" with 2' Inflation Hose from (usabluebook.com)

• Plug a pipe through a tee opening
• Sizes for 3" through 36" pipe
• Prevent flooding of pit when replacing a section of sewer line


Item: 24558
Weight: 0.5 lbs
Catalog Price: $101.95

I like this, it's a cool solution to many issues. What problem are you trying to solve with it?

What came to mind for me is my fireplace is drafty as hell all winter, and I was thinking of something much like this to stick up the flue and inflate to kill the draft coming down the chimney!

Of course, I'd have to find some other way for Santa to make it into the house...
 
Phaivor

Phaivor

41
6
I like this, it's a cool solution to many issues. What problem are you trying to solve with it?

What came to mind for me is my fireplace is drafty as hell all winter, and I was thinking of something much like this to stick up the flue and inflate to kill the draft coming down the chimney!

Of course, I'd have to find some other way for Santa to make it into the house...

lol thanks for the laugh, if you have a leak in a bucket & you can not drain the hole system becouce you have plants in it but you need to change a bucket out then you would plug the pvc piping at both ends of the leaky bucket so you can drain just that one bucket so it can be fixed ASAP...:mmm
PS I thank santa would use the front door if you left him a note on the chimney telling him your not trying to keep him out... lol:bong2:
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
UCHQ, or for that matter anyone who can answer this question;

The main reason I didn't decide to purchase the Undercurrent unit was due to my reluctance to marry myself to uniseals.

When I built my own system, I used 1" bulkheads. Although I'm aware they come in many sizes, the 1" seemed a good compromise between performance and cost. The ones I use are from N-G-W, because the CAP equivalents are of poor quality. I have had very few problems with them. In fact, the only leaks I've found come from where the 1" plastic tubing I use to connect all the sites together slides over the barbed end of the bulkheads. This is a quick fix, since it has meant that the hose was kinked or pulled in some way. Straighten it out, and no more leak. If I ever encounter a more serious leak from this spot, I can always install a ziptie or even a hoseclamp. I've certainly never encountered any cracking issues, and I don't expect to since the bulkhead squeezes onto the container's surface and actually helps to strengthen the opening.

Now, I have a lot of respect for the UC machine, and so it's led me to ask why it is that the designers went with uniseals? Cost per unit? I don't see that much difference between bulkheads and uniseals. It has led to perhaps the largest perceived quality issue with the product- leakage and cracking around the uniseals. There had to be some good reasons why that choice was made, and whether that decision is being revisited for future versions?

Any insight would be most helpful.

On a similar note, I have built several RDWC systems now, all with tailbuckets. This is where I add nutrients and can look to see what's floating around in my system at a glance. It's also handy since I can place the return pumnp in the water and leave its filter in place, reducing the chances of some small foreign object like hydroton blocking flow. This is a very useful component, and I'm not sure why the UC designers didn't include it on their design?
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
lol thanks for the laugh, if you have a leak in a bucket & you can not drain the hole system becouce you have plants in it but you need to change a bucket out then you would plug the pvc piping at both ends of the leaky bucket so you can drain just that one bucket so it can be fixed ASAP...:mmm
PS I thank santa would use the front door if you left him a note on the chimney telling him your not trying to keep him out... lol:bong2:

The picure I saw seemed to show a bag much too large to fit in an opening only an inch to three inches in diameter. I'm wondering if a standard party balloon with a one way valve might not work just as well? Even if they're too fragile for more than one use, a bag of them would only cost a dollar or so!
 
Onespark

Onespark

280
18
DS - Wow. No tea ever? I love your grows but I am hurting here with the UC. Interesting to hear that from you.

Crazy , gettogrow was just saying how it saved the day. wanna take a pic of the roots now or did u already pull everything? the new root growth did look better in that ln that last pic.

I am getting ready to pull it. One Sour D just died...
Ucsddead


Chem X ECSD is still alive

Ucchemecsd


Roots..
Ucone

Uctwo

Ucthree


Sad stuff. Makes me want to get a job in real estate...not
 
P

phup

90
8
Ok. I'm starting to lose my mind about these curling leaves and slow growth. Notice the tip is burned brown and will eventually look like a jerry curl. The leaf margins are also discolored. I have had this problem for almost 3 weeks. I've tried flushing and am currently running around .3 EC. The strange thing is that I moved 16 of my worst plants from one location and another, replacing them with stronger healthier plants and now the ones that were once crappy looking look fine!?!? Nute profile at both locations is the same.

The only thing I can think is light levels to high or maybe a fungal infection?

Has anybody seen this sort of growth before? I'm stumped.
 
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UCHQ

UCHQ

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UCHQ, or for that matter anyone who can answer this question;

The main reason I didn't decide to purchase the Undercurrent unit was due to my reluctance to marry myself to uniseals.

When I built my own system, I used 1" bulkheads. Although I'm aware they come in many sizes, the 1" seemed a good compromise between performance and cost. The ones I use are from N-G-W, because the CAP equivalents are of poor quality. I have had very few problems with them. In fact, the only leaks I've found come from where the 1" plastic tubing I use to connect all the sites together slides over the barbed end of the bulkheads. This is a quick fix, since it has meant that the hose was kinked or pulled in some way. Straighten it out, and no more leak. If I ever encounter a more serious leak from this spot, I can always install a ziptie or even a hoseclamp. I've certainly never encountered any cracking issues, and I don't expect to since the bulkhead squeezes onto the container's surface and actually helps to strengthen the opening.

Now, I have a lot of respect for the UC machine, and so it's led me to ask why it is that the designers went with uniseals? Cost per unit? I don't see that much difference between bulkheads and uniseals. It has led to perhaps the largest perceived quality issue with the product- leakage and cracking around the uniseals. There had to be some good reasons why that choice was made, and whether that decision is being revisited for future versions?

Any insight would be most helpful.

On a similar note, I have built several RDWC systems now, all with tailbuckets. This is where I add nutrients and can look to see what's floating around in my system at a glance. It's also handy since I can place the return pumnp in the water and leave its filter in place, reducing the chances of some small foreign object like hydroton blocking flow. This is a very useful component, and I'm not sure why the UC designers didn't include it on their design?

We've been using Uniseals on our modules for well over 6 years, with reliable results. Cost comparatively when working with 2 & 3" pvc, bulk heads are priced too high given the frequency of junctions on our systems. Look into larger bulkheads to learn more.

1" is not an option as it restricts flow too much for the UC design to operate properly. 1" tub fittings work well for hobby & lower flow set ups but fall short for higher flow apps like the UC.

As for "tail bucket" feature sounds like it works well for you. Given we already add length to our system with our Epicenter, the inclusion of yet an additional bucket isn't an option for standard UC applications. Though for those preferring to add this feature, is an easy addition/ substitution for the return manifold.

You can be certain that CC's R&D has some game changing products, features in the pipeline that will make operating hydro systems more efficient and convenient. Based on your observations, I can assure you they are features and tools you'll be able to appreciate.
 
Onespark

Onespark

280
18
The only thing I can think is light levels to high or maybe a fungal infection?

Has anybody seen this sort of growth before? I'm stumped.

Doubt it's light but lets see what the more successful folks have to say on that. Probably too high PPM / EC like everyone keeps saying. Yes, I have seen that happen right before things got serious in the UC. How are the roots looking? Lets see 'em.
 
UCHQ

UCHQ

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ph....consider that it may be during pH adjustments and chemistry maintenance that you are shocking/stressing the plants. The look of your plants is indicative of caustic salt related issues. Note the dullness of the leaf tissue, a good indicator your plants are dehydrated.

To diagnose more accurately, please list water type & specific nutes being used.
 
UCHQ

UCHQ

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phup

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Doubt it's light but lets see what the more successful folks have to say on that. Probably too high PPM / EC like everyone keeps saying. Yes, I have seen that happen right before things got serious in the UC. How are the roots looking? Lets see 'em.

Roots are pretty decently white, some minor brown near the top but very little. I hear you about high EC but that plant is running in 0.2 EC. We are talking 200 ml of H&G plus 100 ml of cal mag for 200 gallons. By serious you mean previous to them exploding or turning to crap?
 
P

phup

90
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ph....consider that it may be during pH adjustments and chemistry maintenance that you are shocking/stressing the plants. The look of your plants is indicative of caustic salt related issues. Note the dullness of the leaf tissue, a good indicator your plants are dehydrated.

To diagnose more accurately, please list water type & specific nutes being used.

RO water and H&G aqua flakes. I always mix any nute/ph adjustments into 5 gallons of water before adding it to epicenter over the course of 15 minutes.
 
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