That's pretty sick - for those using an atmospheric controller, it's got an auto restart so you can plug that sonuvabitch right into your Sentinel, etc............that's badass.

Nice find.

The msrp listed has them at $1500 and $1800 :-)

Heavily overpriced imo.

I purchased my 24K+ BTU minisplits for $1600 a piece.

Half.

Ramsond Corp. out of Detroit.

When I need another A/C, Ill be headed their way.....

Illegal growers (or even legal who really value their privacy) have to pay a premium for the ability to not have an HVAC guy coming into their garden.

Thats actually a pretty good price, the one with the 16ft line. Check out Excelair if you want to see some waaaaaaaay over priced mini's.
All the features are pretty much standard on most inverter mini splits. But it only has a 1 year warranty.
Harborpoint sells a 12k btu DIY for the same price ($1499) and has a 3 year parts, 5 year compressor warranty.
Also, theirs no mention of compressor brand. (Though, most no name mini's use Toshiba, Hitachi or Panasonic compressors <-All pretty reliable.)
Nonetheless, it's a good sign of things to come when Sunlight Supply starts selling DIY mini splits.

So just got word from my local shop that an ideal air 2 ton and 3 ton are very near to being released. Also they are dropping the heat pump to get the costs down on the new units.

Evlme2, any idea on the outside compressor size of this unit?

I'd have to squeeze it into a small opening in my crawlspace (an outdoor unit is not an option, unfortunately - but my crawlspace stays cool year round - 65-70F when it's 100F outside, so the AC wouldn't be able to get it up to 90F, methinks).

Also, how often do minis crap out? I see a lot of talk of warranties and whatnot - I don't do warranties, so if mine craps out I'm shit outta luck - what kind of odds are we looking at with that?

And how "easy" are we talking for a DIY install? I'm an absolute retard and can fuck up most anything - is it as simple as attaching lines via some connectors, plugging it in and calling it a day?

Seems like my watercooling idea isn't gonna work so now we're on mini-splits.

Oh, last question - it says it's only recommended for 120 square feet? I have a small heat load (4 600s air-cooled), and a 400HPS non air-cooled (along with some fluoros and a chiller or two) in a 14x10x8 heavily insulated room in a non-insulated garage - yay or nay on it being able to cool that?

Finally, the outside unit leaks water, correct? So there would be water exhausted into my crawlspace (where the outside unit is) whenever it's running?

Sorry for the long question(s).

Bobby Smith said:

Evlme2, any idea on the outside compressor size of this unit?

I'd have to squeeze it into a small opening in my crawlspace (an outdoor unit is not an option, unfortunately - but my crawlspace stays cool year round - 65-70F when it's 100F outside, so the AC wouldn't be able to get it up to 90F, methinks).

Also, how often do minis crap out? I see a lot of talk of warranties and whatnot - I don't do warranties, so if mine craps out I'm shit outta luck - what kind of odds are we looking at with that?

And how "easy" are we talking for a DIY install? I'm an absolute retard and can fuck up most anything - is it as simple as attaching lines via some connectors, plugging it in and calling it a day?

Seems like my watercooling idea isn't gonna work so now we're on mini-splits.

Oh, last question - it says it's only recommended for 120 square feet? I have a small heat load (4 600s air-cooled), and a 400HPS non air-cooled (along with some fluoros and a chiller or two) in a 14x10x8 heavily insulated room in a non-insulated garage - yay or nay on it being able to cool that?

Finally, the outside unit leaks water, correct? So there would be water exhausted into my crawlspace (where the outside unit is) whenever it's running?

Sorry for the long question(s).

Click to expand...

Woohoo! Mini split! Now we are talking the good shit here man.:icon_spin:

Sorry, my mini split is by far my best piece of equipment. I get excited when the subject comes up.

Sunlight has no specs or manuals for the unit at all. I would estimate 3'L x 2'H x 1'W. Mini split has to be more reliable than a portable any day of the week. The connections are no worse than your CO2 generator. Especially because this thing is "pre charged, pre wired, & DIY" (unless they lie). I wired mine and mounted everything. An AC guy came for the final connection with the pipes, since they had to be vacuumed. Not that bad. The inside unit has the drain hose, not the outside unit. If you need, you can connect a condensate pump if a drain is not handy nearby. As far as capacity, It is cutting it kinda close if you ask me. Is it possible to air cool the 400, and get the chillers out of the room? Worst case, you could always use the portable to supplement in the hot months if it gets out of hand.

-TF

TF, I think you're right that it's a touch undersized, but again, the heat load is pretty small - have a 14K portable in there now, so this is actually (much) more powerful than that when you compare the numbers - also much more efficient, obviously.

When I say "chillers" I'm not talking 1/4 or 1/2HP like you RDWC types run - one is 1/15 and one is 1/8th, and I'm still undecided as to which I'm gonna use on my 12 gallon flowering reservoir (the other won't be in use until I turn my mother setup from an E&F table to lp aero).

I agree, an 18K would be perfect, but I have no problem either not running during the hottest months of the summer or running less lights, so I'm just gonna make it work - also, run my lights at night so during the day the AC would only have to keep the room and the 400 (running for 6 of 12 hours) at 75F, and then at night when lights are running with CO2 it can go up to the low 80s.

Question: how much room do minis need? Was gonna install right next to my room in the "dead" part of my garage, and the "non-fan" side would basically be within inches of a wall - I'm sure this isn't recommended, but how bad is it really?

And how does the heating/AC work for 12/12 days? Can it be set on a timer for 74/82 or something like that? And will it perform both heat and AC independently as needs arise, or is it set for only one? I.e, will it heat my room during the day when temps can drop into the 60s and then cool it later that night when the lights are running and it's into the mid 80s?

Thanks guys - BTW, for comparable 20 SEER units it's $1100+, so this unit isn't that big of a ripoff.

Bobby,
I have no idea if the ac in question has separate day and night settings. Although mine is pretty deluxe, no separate setting for day/night. I just set it for one temp and roll with it. No heat either. Although my area doesn't really freeze in the winter. I would say that the unit would just plug into your sentinal controller. That means that it will be cool only. I would just run a small space heater off the heat control outlet if you need the extra warmth. I think that you could squeeze the outside in that space, as long as the fan has good flow, and the unit is not directly touching the wall.

So TF, you keep your temps constant for an entire 24 hour cycle? No difference between day and night temps?

And I was thinking about running a space heater, but it'd definitely have to be a propane or natural gas because I'd refuse to run an electric one - that being said, we're getting hit with much colder than normal temperatures (like low 20s at night), and it's staying ~68F with just a 400HPS running in there.

Figure when totally set up with plants and all (chillers, pumps, other heat adding devices) I shouldn't ever really need a heater - sucks they don't have a DIY install that's just an AC because I don't feel like paying for a heater I'll never use.

Also, I'd have to think about how to run that AC in conjunction with the Sentinel - it wouldn't really work because the Sentinel would cycle it on and off constantly which kinda ruins the point of an inverter (if I understand correctly).

Bobby Smith said:

Evlme2, any idea on the outside compressor size of this unit?

I'd have to squeeze it into a small opening in my crawlspace (an outdoor unit is not an option, unfortunately - but my crawlspace stays cool year round - 65-70F when it's 100F outside, so the AC wouldn't be able to get it up to 90F, methinks).

Also, how often do minis crap out? I see a lot of talk of warranties and whatnot - I don't do warranties, so if mine craps out I'm shit outta luck - what kind of odds are we looking at with that?

And how "easy" are we talking for a DIY install? I'm an absolute retard and can fuck up most anything - is it as simple as attaching lines via some connectors, plugging it in and calling it a day?

Seems like my watercooling idea isn't gonna work so now we're on mini-splits.

Oh, last question - it says it's only recommended for 120 square feet? I have a small heat load (4 600s air-cooled), and a 400HPS non air-cooled (along with some fluoros and a chiller or two) in a 14x10x8 heavily insulated room in a non-insulated garage - yay or nay on it being able to cool that?

Finally, the outside unit leaks water, correct? So there would be water exhausted into my crawlspace (where the outside unit is) whenever it's running?

Sorry for the long question(s).

Click to expand...

Sorry my man, didn't see you had asked me a question...
All single zone mini splits are no bigger than the large size suit cases allowed on a plane. And you can carry one by yourself.
The inside part is about about 2 1/2 ' long and weighs40 lbs.
These are the brands generally considered to be on top of the game;
Mitsubishi, Fujitsu, Lg, Sanyo, Friedrich, Daikon.
I try and stay away from any company that doesn't make their own compressors. (Don't let anyone tell you they're all the same, THEY ARE NOT THE SAME)
Anything other than a name brand is a a gamble.
In the AC world, you truly get what you pay for. I have a few dead mini splits in my garage to prove it.
If you cannot afford top of the line then go with a supplier that has good customer service because you will be calling them for parts.
As for warranties, I don't do them either. Another reason I buy the most reliable I can afford. But I do take into consideration the warranty offered.
Mitsubishi has one of the longest warranties, and thats because they are that reliable.
I do my own installs so that voids warranties anyway, but at least I can remove/replace it myself.
Cheap brands are getting better, but be weary.
But I will admit this, if those cheap units keep progressing the way they are then I may consider one again. Seeing as how I know how to install them myself now then I have no problem removing/replacing them if the price is right. But for now, nothing touches my Mr.Slim. Expensive, yes. Peace of mind when I have 20 grand worth of plants depending on it, PRICELESS!
There are true diy models available now but none of the major brands make them. I heard that Friedrich is supposed to come out with a true DIY model but nothing from them so far.
On a regular mini split, the install part is easy (mounting the units, wiring them ,etc) but you need to vacuum the lines and thats where most people stop because you need a vacuum pump.
I got tired of having to break down in the middle of a grow and have a tech out to install a new unit so I learned how to do it myself. Bought a pump (JB DV-85N) and have done 6 so far and they're all working perfectly.
(You might be asking yourself why choose a non diy model. For me it's because the diy models are not from a major manufacturer. My friend has one and it's been running flawlessly but it is not as quiet as my Mitsu. It is particularly loud when the compressor slows down.)
So if can fuck things up that easy then you're only two options are a true DIY model, here->
Or have a tech come out and vacuum the lines OR learn to do it yourself.
It is the inside unit that produces water. The outside makes water when the heat pump is on, if you got one with heat.
The inside unit uses a drain hose attached to it. I ran mine outside thru the same hole I made for the lineset and power cables. You could drop the hose in a 5 gallon bucket and empty when full etc. Lots of ways to deal with that easily.
I think your space is slightly too big for that unit. If their are no lights in the room then you could cool and area twice what they recommend but it's the lights that really add heat.
Also, because you'll be mounting the outside unit in an attic then it will not run as efficiently as if it were outside. It will run, and it will cool, just not a good as if it were mounted outside.
I think an 18k would be perfect for you.
Some people can get away with a small unit but then it never stops running at max so all inverter benefits are lost.
Any other questions, ask away. I love sharing what I learned about mini splits, they are gaining popularity here in the U.S. (everyone is Europe has them) and growers are getting hip to them to the point where growing supply companies are selling them. Things will only get better technology and price wise!:RastaBong:

Ha, thanks for the info - asked you a question in the AC thread, but I guess I'll ask it here instead:

1) What is your occupation/day job? Trying to get a feel for how handy you are when you say that you "taught" yourself to install minis.

2) How much are the tools/gauges/etc. needed?

Because if your answer to #1 is "accountant who never messed with tools" and the answer to #2 is "a hundred or so bucks", than I'm willing to give it a shot and try to install my own.

I'm really not very tech savvy or handy with tools or knowledgeable about electricity, HVAC, or anything like that, so I'm guessing it's not a good idea for me to try (but I'm up for anything - couldn't change a tire last year and have built a sealed room singlehandedly as well as that PVC thing in my avatar, so I'm a reasonably fast learner).

Attached are some pics of the space the outside unit would be in - these are old pics, obviously, but you can see the area in-between the wall and the door where the unit would sit.

Also, the garage (the dead area, where the outside unit is) would constantly be getting fresh, cool air from my crawlspace even in the dead of summer.

And the outside unit wouldn't be in the attic, it'd be in the empty garage space.

EDIT: yeah, not worried about the water at all - will just drain it into that PVC which runs to my outside vegetable garden bed :)

DOUBLE EDIT: just checked the price of that vacuum pump and it's $400+ - probably not a worthwhile one-time purchase for me.

HA ha, my day job is a night job. I drive a street sweeper for a living. I am extremely mechanically inclined. I too knew nothing about HVAC,Plumbing, Electrical etc, but I learned and built my own room, installed sub-panels/wires/breakers/etc. I learned it all. Kinda like a jack of all trades/master of none.
By the way you describe your skills,( and the obvious expense of a vacuum pump, though you can get it much cheaper) just have a tech vacuum the lines. You can easily mount the units and wire them yourself, they do come with instructions.
Ah ok, it'll be mounted in the garage. I think you'll be ok their. I know someone who has an Lg mounted in his garage and it only heats up the air a little (he cracks the garage door if the air get too warm) and you still don't hear the thing because minis (especially the expensive ones) air almost completely silent.
I hesitate to recommend the 12k btu unit because I'm afraid it may be slightly too small.
Tell me, how hot todes it get in the room in the dead of summer? O dead of summer with lights on? That will help determine size.
Btw, thats a very nice space to work with in your pics.

Here's a good video showing the process of installing a mini split.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUJMzKPwjbI
If you only do installs and don't mess around and leak out a lot of freon then you won't need a tank or scale. Also, I don't use a micron gauge. I know my pump is powerful enough to pull a deep vacuum so I just let it run for an hour and it is always good to go.
How did I learn this? By watching the first tech who came out and vacuumed the lines on the first unit I bought. Funny thing is, that tech looked at the brand of mini split (Amcor) and said, "nice unit, good luck finding parts for it if it ever goes".
Guess what, it's sitting in my junk pile in my garage...
if you have any questions after watching that video, ask away. I can guide you thru what equipment you won't need. The guy in the vid is an Lg tech so he has ever gadget available, but any tech will tell you that you don't need all of them if you know what you're doing.
evl

Well hell, if having a technician over to my grow was an option than we wouldn't need to be having this conversation :)

Average summer high temps from June-August are 80, 82, 86 - the garage generally gets about 10 degrees warmer than that with the sun beating down on it, but again, this is a brand new build so I'm not sure how things are going to react.

Also, there's ducting running from my crawlspace (65-70F in the DEAD of summer, and lower than that for the other 9-10 months of the year) which has two 6" inlines attached and will be pumping in cool crawlspace air during the day, although it'll be pumping out the heat from 4 aircooled 600s at night.

There's also some unintentional holes in the garage (not the room obviously, the garage it's located in) for air to escape, so I think the air turnover will be pretty good - best guess, with the mini running full power on the hottest day(s) of the year, I'd doubt it gets over 100F.

I realize and appreciate that the unit may be undersized for the dead of summer here when we can get the occasional 95F day, but unfortunately that's just gonna have to be a fact of life as a non-HVAC tech in a non-med state - worst comes to worst, can just run half my flowering unit during the summer, or even just run the 400 and do some pollen chucking - this is a hobby, not how I pay my bills, so I have some leeway.

Have zero interest in having to have an AC run 24/7 to keep my grow cool, as our house central air is inefficient as shit and leads to massive powerbills by itself - not looking to draw any attention with a $1K powerbill - or really having to pay for a $1K powerbill, honestly :).

EDIT: Lol, watched that video this morning and pretty much turned it off when they started listing the equipment you needed........I was like "nah, butzy".

I would chance it as well.
See, I'm in Florida and you can imagine the heat we deal with in the summer. More likely than not you will be ok. And of coarse shutting off a lamp is an option.
We're non medical as well so I totally understand your plight. Thankfully you have a way around things by way of a diy system. They work great and it is literally plug-n-play. It took us longer to mount the units than it did to connect everything.
If/when you do buy that unit I'd love to see some pics of it!
Good luck and let me know how it all goes.

evlme2 said:

I would chance it as well.
See, I'm in Florida and you can imagine the heat we deal with in the summer. More likely than not you will be ok. And of coarse shutting off a lamp is an option.
We're non medical as well so I totally understand your plight. Thankfully you have a way around things by way of a diy system. They work great and it is literally plug-n-play. It took us longer to mount the units than it did to connect everything.
If/when you do buy that unit I'd love to see some pics of it!
Good luck and let me know how it all goes.

Click to expand...

Thanks man, appreciate all your help.

Actually heading down to my parent's new crib tomorrow morning in Fort Myers for a few days (if you're anywhere in that area).

And yeah, once I get this system dialed in I should be pulling 6ish pounds per harvest - I can easily live with three harvests a year and let my equipment rest for the summer - just wanna get rid of that stupid fucking portable I bought sooner rather than later.

EDIT: Evlme, quick question - does the unit have to be set to either heat or cool, or does it maintain a temperature on its own? I.e., will the unit decide to heat at 60F to get to 70F and then cool at 80F to get to 70F automatically, or you (I) need to manually switch it?

"Auto Changeover" is the technical name of the function you're asking about. I don't see that listed in the specs but sometimes you have to find the actual manufacturer's specs.
My Mitsu has that function. My Amcor didnt. And I don't think my Shinco did either. Chances are that one doesn't either. So yeah, you'll have to use the remote to manually go to heat mode. Btw, they are GREAT heaters!
No matter what though, I can GUARANTEE you that that unit will operate MUCH more efficiently AND effectively then the portable. You will be amazed my man.
Bring a jacket with you bro, it's freakin cold here! In fact, my Mitsu went into heat mode last night and is still heating...
I'm on the exact other side of Fla from Ft.Meyers. Think Space ships ;)

evlme2 said:

"Auto Changeover" is the technical name of the function you're asking about. I don't see that listed in the specs but sometimes you have to find the actual manufacturer's specs.
My Mitsu has that function. My Amcor didnt. And I don't think my Shinco did either. Chances are that one doesn't either. So yeah, you'll have to use the remote to manually go to heat mode. Btw, they are GREAT heaters!
No matter what though, I can GUARANTEE you that that unit will operate MUCH more efficiently AND effectively then the portable. You will be amazed my man.
Bring a jacket with you bro, it's freakin cold here! In fact, my Mitsu went into heat mode last night and is still heating...
I'm on the exact other side of Fla from Ft.Meyers. Think Space ships ;)

Click to expand...

Yeah, the efficiency is #2 on the list, with the fact that it won't exhaust air out being #1 on the list.

Plus, even though it says 12K BTUs, the max is at 14.5KBTUs, which must beat the shit outta my 14K portable.

And my parents have a place in West Palm as well, maybe I'll hit you up when I head down that way :RastaBong: