1000W DIY LED GROW LIGHT

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Johnsmithled

Johnsmithled

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This is how I built an overpowered light worth $2500+ on the market for only $850. All currency is CAD.

*BEFORE STARTING*
Watch the 6 part growmau5 series to learn the wiring:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UlM5uvO7sao

For the grounding plug:

1000w diy led grow light


Technical:


4x Hlg 185H 700ma in series drivers (i suggest you buy the newer 240H model) $250


40x 5000K $350


7x 3000K $25

(You can use less I used way too many)

All are bridgelux Gen 3/ C3 (Make sure theyre all plug in only dont mess around with the solder ones unless you have 100+hours experience in soldering)
The 3000k ones I used were soulder onlys. Lost a couple due to human error

Total Cost (TC): $575


Frame:
(Choose a better material for frame, I used wood composite because I was lazy)

Wood composite 2x2ft v


Matching plastic 2x2ft (painting frame) $50?


Thermal tape (sized to the width of the led bars) $20


TC: $70-100


Electric:


100’ length 20guage solid core wire $60


50 pack 2 wire wagos 221 $25


4x plastic junction boxes 4inch x 4inch x 3inch (make sure it comes with something to plug up the holes and hold the wire)$40


500 assorted pack heatshrink tubing $20 (good to help fit in junction box)


4x Leviton 515PV 15Amp 125Volt grounding plug $20

25’ 16guage wire (for the grounding plug) $20

TC:$165
-Everything is super flexible here just make sure your amps and volt calculations are solid.
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Last edited:
Johnsmithled

Johnsmithled

6
3
SETTING UP THE DIMMERS

(Very easy if you do it like i did in these pictures)

All you need is:
•100k potentiometers (maybe an ohm meter if you want to make sure ur dimmers go all the way to 100, most dont they go to like 92 or 97)

•20 guage wire (same as the led strips)

•Plastic junction box (make sure its got rubber wire holders that you cut a hole through with scissors and put the wire/ potentiometer through)

•211 Wago wire connector

•soldering machine (temperature is dependant on what kind of solder you use) $25

• silver solder (find a lower temp soldering machine ~360f for silver) $20
DCCBA688 1D47 4E92 A91F B490997AC1B5
0188C6C3 760B 4D2B A183 3686906CD3A4
C59E3229 E7C2 4C6C 941F 3B23B36B969E
E028631E D14C 4B94 82A2 BB91DB461D34
 
PipeCarver

PipeCarver

Supporter
5,643
313
SETTING UP THE DIMMERS

(Very easy if you do it like i did in these pictures)

All you need is:
•100k potentiometers (maybe an ohm meter if you want to make sure ur dimmers go all the way to 100, most dont they go to like 92 or 97)

•20 guage wire (same as the led strips)

•Plastic junction box (make sure its got rubber wire holders that you cut a hole through with scissors and put the wire/ potentiometer through)

•211 Wago wire connector

•soldering machine (temperature is dependant on what kind of solder you use) $25

• silver solder (find a lower temp soldering machine ~360f for silver) $20
View attachment 1349484View attachment 1349485View attachment 1349486View attachment 1349487
Hey thanks for all the work putting that together for us....I'm sure there's a few that will follow along and create those lights, I re read it because I wondered why a wood frame...lol.....I've built a few things with hard plastic and a blow torch or heat gun.....would you stay away from metal frames? aluminum would look sharp...
 
BigBlonde

BigBlonde

1,379
263
How's the heat dissipation? Has it been a problem?

I use ViparSpectra lights that have large heat sinks, and it still helps to add a cooling fan.
 
Johnsmithled

Johnsmithled

6
3
How's the heat dissipation? Has it been a problem?

I use ViparSpectra lights that have large heat sinks, and it still helps to add a cooling fan.
With 1-2 fans blowing on the drivers and another 1-2 fans blowing on the light, both will be 30-35C at 100% power. I made this light too powerful, during the whole veg cycle I only need to run all the 4 drivers at 10-20% power so the heat stays at around 20C with a fan or two blowing on everything. Without fans and on 100% power (not reccomended unless you use less led strips) it gets to 40-45C max 50C, which is still technically in the safe range although this light was built for efficiency so the goal is to stay at 20C.
 
Johnsmithled

Johnsmithled

6
3
With 1-2 fans blowing on the drivers and another 1-2 fans blowing on the light, both will be 30-35C at 100% power. I made this light too powerful, during the whole veg cycle I only need to run all the 4 drivers at 10-20% power so the heat stays at around 20C with a fan or two blowing on everything. Without fans and on 100% power (not reccomended unless you use less led strips) it gets to 40-45C max 50C, which is still technically in the safe range although this light was built for efficiency so the goal is to stay at 20C.
Just be exactly clear. The heat dissipation is great and very easy to manage. You will never have to run this thing on full 100% power, it is too powerful.
 
Johnsmithled

Johnsmithled

6
3
Hey thanks for all the work putting that together for us....I'm sure there's a few that will follow along and create those lights, I re read it because I wondered why a wood frame...lol.....I've built a few things with hard plastic and a blow torch or heat gun.....would you stay away from metal frames? aluminum would look sharp...
Id think aluminum would be the best choice. Thats what all the amazon led lights are made of. The frame is so light is wiggles a bit in the wind, not an issue but something that should probably be considered when choosing a frame; make it heavy enough.
 
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