10k uce 15xxl raspberry kush, GDP

[hogan400]

Seems the new start on my thread was lost, no biggie.

10k
uce15xxl with eco plus 1/2hp chiller
2 minisplits
2 frigidaire dehueys
d.m. zone/ucroots in bloom
cch2o bloomA/B and Boost

12 raspberry cuts
3 grand dad purp cuts
growstones instead of hydroton

This rd I insulated the tubs, covered the tops of the pvc with reflectix tape to help block some light for what its worth.
D

ay 5.

 

[hogan400]

Update,

Im suffering serious root I cant solve. I thought it was bad cal mag since after I added it my water became cloudy the next morning. I also noticed hydroton dust on the edges of the waters surface and root tips. I drained, cleaned, flushed, it seemed to be covering new roots and causing stress. I added nutes, ph balanced and boom! Same thing next day... I cut out the cal mag, also pulled the stressed ladies and put them into new "growstones". Puffed recycled glass product. The ladies look like shit!

Im stating to wonder if this is a algae or biofilm? On the second clean and flush it came back twice as fast, twice as bad, I would swear its relative to the hydroton?! Same color as the dust... today is basically a restart with the stones and d.master grow a/b and Zone at 2ml a gallon.

Anyone using the ewc tea? I hear some good stuff in rdwc but not undercurrent yet?
Anyone using 3+ml of zone?I realize I cannot use it "with" zone or sterile application.

I am shook at this point as the ladies were looking good for 2 days two different times now and this problem keeps persisting!

 

[Blackman]

Maybe try lowering warter temp

 

[farmseeker]

Hey Hogan... what are the dimensions of your room?

 

[GeneticFreak]

Your gonna notice way more efficiency out of your chiller with that insulation. Like what you did with the fans hogan! One of my biggest problems was air flow under the canopy keeping co2 moving. Tea worked really good for me. I'm not looking forward to that uc transition on my next run. Its a pain in the ass watching plants suffer like that. I'm gonna try to brew the whole run and not run any zone or h2o2.

 

[hogan400]

blackman, water temps 64. always are.
fseeker, room is 13 x 18 roughly.

Gf, fans work nicely. Used the last few weeks of my run but the canopy hid them.
whats the 411 on the tea? I can find several recipe's but no application rates? How do you work it?

 

[Bubblehaze]

You should consider switching your air hoses to black they will keep causing problems until changed with small plants like that. I have had that problem before.Good luck

 

[hogan400]

doing some reading on ozone introduction into the water to kill all pathogens, especially algae, bio films, pathogens and the like. Anyone have any experience with this?

 

[farmseeker]

Thanks Hogan! I would also like to see if Ozone in the air would help, actaully I have Ozone coming out of the light exhaust duct and I know it is getting sucked up into my air pump.... I have to say outta 3 runs I have had no root problems.....

 

[smokie]

I think DS uses UV filter inline with UC, do you have a UV for your fresh water?
I believe some people had issues with black airhose heating up the air, not sure ive only used clear.

 

[GeneticFreak]

If memory serves me correct I used 1 cup tea per gallon. I don't remember how frequent though. Do a search in the farm and you'll find the link or maybe the recipe with dosing. Worked very well for me, I noticed new white roots after three days and almost all slime was gone.

 

[hogan400]

Uv sterilizer (ultraviolet light) is actually a good idea in the preventative stages and for sterilizing water on introduction. In aquatic use it does not kill the parasite but passing thru the light will render them unable to reproduce. With pathogens in gardening it also has the same basic principal, but still once they are on the fish or in the water or roots they can do damage till they run their life cycle or the host is ghost!

Ozone uses corona discharge in air or water and penetrates the cells on contact, destroying them. It also kills parasites on contact and basically burns them to death. Ozone is super corrosive, and will eat plastics and metals alike in air or water. Its been used in other countries for 20+ yrs in water treatment for algae and slime reduction specifically. I just cant seem to find the application rates, and time on/off for hydro roots to be able to keep from burning them? I have a Orp meter but it prob isnt gonna tell me time frames, and give me a good schedule to start with. There are several reports and studies about using it for greenhouse and veggie growing, with A+ results.

Ive seen 2 members here that say they use it with positive results. Im waiting back for a response still and the site has been up and down so I hope I can get a answer or idea quick enough to aid me.

good input farmseeker, gf, thanks

 

[Shady]

Love the new diggs hogan! Hope you knock this round outta the park...

 

[hogan400]

Thanks shady, seems me and many other dwc and rdwc growers locally are getting crushed with the slime. Im trying to figure out a way to smash it back. This rd is looking good and at last peek the water wasnt cloudy... Had a couple 1.75lbr's in that middle row... some way less on the outside... haha. Im all in FTW this rd!!

 

[All4freedumb]

What up Hogan.. I forgot, are you using RO?

 

[Legallyflying]

Hey hogan. You NEED the tea and the tea WORKS! The original thread is over at roll it up. Google Heisenberg tea.

Basically it's:

1 gallon water
1 tbsp molasis
10 ml hydro shield. (the botanicare stuff)
1 big handful of ancient forest
I scoop of myco spores

Aerate the shit out of it and don't let it get too cold. 2-3 days later filter it and add 1 cup per gallon.

Add 1 cup per 5 gallons every 3 days.

The 1 cup/g is to fix problems the 1 cup/5 is the typical "maintenance dose". You can refrigerate what you don't use for like 10 days.

It works spectacular!!! When zone, bleach and h2o2 fail, this stuff works.

Start tomorrow then when you have the brew ready flush your entire system, rinse the crude off the roots, mix 1/2 strength nutes and add all the tea. In 3-4 days your problem will be gone. I would actually crown feed all the tea to get at the rot in your net pots.

It will turn your grow around !

 

[hogan400]

All4,
I used r.o water and tap. Same thing with both. I remembered when my first rd started getting weird and I had some clouding issues exactly the same. I have sinced replaced every nute and related product, ran tests. It clouds with straight tap or r.o by itself in the uc. With or without plants. crazy shit. Quicker with plants of course.

I believe its an algae/bio film in the system, I can get out if Im using hydroton if that sounds weird.
Im starting day 3 with the growstones after a fresh scrubbing, toilet bowl scrubbing, physan20, then a bio green kleen spray and wipe, then a full 45 min extra flush, bleaching of lids, root port covers, air-stones, airlines, and pvc fittings. If I have to clean this bitch again Ima cry. lol

legallyflying,
I really appreciate your help. I read up and am ready, however Im in a waiting mode because since I did the final swap of hydroton for growstones it seems my clouding has not started again.... Crossing my fingers of course. Also my ladies have root nubs so maybe when they touch the water this will change. Im gonna brew tea soon as I see clouding starting or roots browning. Im also very interested in Ozone because of the university studies and things I have read. Its just all large scale.
Thanks guys. Lets fuck this shit up!!

 

[All4freedumb]

Just a thought... I noticed in my rooms that while running with hydroton, I hate that shit, there was a significant amount of light getting into the buckets through the net pots. I'm sure this is not the cause to your issue but it might also be helping the culprit some. I covered my tops completely and I swear there is a different smell of the water in the buckets (even compared to the uncovered epi), nicer roots and thicker stalks. I have ran this strain before but not near the quality of roots or such fat stalks. I am running CS nutes for the first time as well so I can't give it all to the buckets being blacked out but I swear ill cover them every time now..
With the way you vegged did you have massive roots out your net pot upon transfer into the UC? What did the inner roots look like when you pulled out hydroton and replaced with grow stones? I was wondering if its an issue of your old roots dieing off and putting slime into your water.. Are you top feeding? I swear brother top feeding with higher ppms then in the UC and keeping water at bottom of net pot until the roots grab has been key to me. After they have been eating higher ppms and the roots take to the water I raise the water level up and top feed one last day.. I kinda think that has kept my roots in my net pot healthy through my transfer.. I have NO doubt you will work it out and kill this round brother.. I'll be here watching and admiring..

Peace.. A4FD

 

[Legallyflying]

Check out my he slimed me thread. I went through the same exact thing. Scrubbed the hell out of everything and bombed the shit out of everything. Bleach, physan20, zOne and h2o2.

Top feeding tea made my roots explode. (along with desert squirrels advice of dyna bloom and low ph)

I had read up on ozone and saw that to kill everything it had to pass though the sterilizer so unless you can pass your roots through the sterilizer....its not going to do much. Same thing with UV.

Spend the $50 to get enough stuff to make like 50 gallons of tea. I'm telling you it works wonders. If you got alike while running zone and other sterilizers I can almost guarantee that it will come back. Or at least mine did. All that cleaning work then two days later....slime

 

[ttystikk]

I had horrible problems with rootzone pathogens until I got my RDWC water down below 62. Once I did that, it cleared up and stayed that way, whether I added DM Zone, or H2O2 or nothing at all. Until I did that, nothing else worked. I have to conclude that dropping the water temps down was the decisive step, at least for me.

I dropped my water temps that much on the advice of Jalisco Kid, among others- he said that such temps knock out the pythium rot and give bennies the upper hand.

This squares with other data as well; water holds MORE oxygen in solution as temperature falls, and most undesirable critters in the water are anaerobic, meaning they don't like oxygen- whereas most bennies are aerobic, meaning the more oxygen the better for them! Colder water makes for an easier time oxygenating it and tilts the playing field towards the grower and whatever bennies he's running...

As ever, it's possible to have too much of a good thing; water temps in the mid 50s or lower apparently slow growth.

Finally, I like the blankets you've put on your UC, and I plan to do the same- as much for light proofing as for temperature stability. On the other hand, I do have a small concern here; currently, my water temps fall in the dark period to between 62 and 64 F, and rise to 66 or even 70 F by the end of the light period. I wonder if that temp fluctuation isn't so bad? After all, it drops the temps every night low enough to stop the nasties, and then in the daytime it warms up- which no doubt helps plant metabolism. I wonder if the blankets would just slow my plants' growth?