14,000k metal halide bulb

[aireoponics]

Thinking of using a 14,000k metal halide bulb for flowering in order to increase resin production. I have used uvb cfls in former growes and witnessed good results. What do you guys think?

 

[aireoponics]

14k chart


http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...1t:429,r:1,s:16&tx=139&ty=64&biw=1280&bih=645

 

[aireoponics]

hps chart

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...t:429,r:17,s:71&tx=152&ty=86&biw=1280&bih=645

 

[Seamaiden]

Seems awfully blue to me, but I say try it.

 

[aireoponics]

I have read about growers using metal halide bulbs in flower for more uv light, also produces a stockier plant shorter inter node spacing. HPS causes more stretching.

 

[Seamaiden]

Yeah, but there's a HUGE range of color temps available in MH. From as low as 2700K (which is very warm/yellow-red) to as high as 20,000K, which is almost completely blue. These bulbs that are made in the higher Kelvin ranges (>6,500K) are all made for aquarium use, specifically to grow photosynthetic aquatic organisms--corals, clams, corallimorphs, anemones and other Scleractinians. What does that MEAN?

It means that these bulbs were designed to mimic equatorial (tropical) sunlight as it passes through water. Are we growing Mary under water? No, she's terrestrial and what she needs to flower is the first thing that's lost when light passes through water--the red end of the spectrum. No flowering plant can really flower without red spectra, in fact.

So, while some push of UV can help keep internode spacing tight, that can be achieved in other ways and it does not require an MH of 14,000K to get. All metal halide bulbs push UV light, all of them, and all HPS bulbs push zero UV light. So you can use a MH bulb of 4,000K (like the ones I get from Lowe's) and that could actually, in my currently limited opinion (because I haven't yet tried out my 10,000K 175W MH, cabbaged off a friend's reef tank hood) do you just as well as the 14,000K.

That is why I said that it seems awfully blue to me, because those high Kelvin rated bulbs don't usually have as much red spectra available. It is also said that reefers can experience microalgae, diatom and cyanobacterial blooms in presence of too much red light.

HPS don't cause stretching, it's something that happens naturally whether under the Big Metal Halide in the Sky or under artificial light. I found that MH does not prevent stretching, and saw no appreciable difference in trichome coverage between tables where I split MH and HPS. I think those aspects are a bit more difficult to quantify, and my main goal is to grow flowers.

Did you know that you can give the plants UV by using fluoros and CFLs? Yep, tis true.

 

[aireoponics]

yea I have and have used 26w 10.0 uvb bulbs reptiglo

 

[dextr0]

Thinking of using a 14,000k metal halide bulb for flowering in order to increase resin production. I have used uvb cfls in former growes and witnessed good results. What do you guys think?

Did u buy this bulb already, or have it layin around and just thinking of using it?

 

[-hydrofarmer-]

Thinking of using a 14,000k metal halide bulb for flowering in order to increase resin production. I have used uvb cfls in former growes and witnessed good results. What do you guys think?

Metal Halide bulbs have a balanced light spectrum which offers the most natural light output and promotes leaf growth. MH's balanced spectrum contains the common blue and red wavelengths needed by plants for most rapid growth. Plants can still be grown from start to finish but these bulbs are mainly for the veg cycle..

High Pressured Sodium bulbs are more effcient than MH bulbs producing about 10-15% more lumens per watt than a metal halide bulb. HPS emits orange/yellow color that is similar to the sun's spectrum in the mid-day. This light promotes flower growth..

well it might produce but not as much as the HPS..

 

[aireoponics]

Did u buy this bulb already, or have it layin around and just thinking of using it?

thinking about it

lumens dont mean anything in growing, lumen is what the human eye sees, human eyes see the green color spectrum best. Plants reflect the green color spectrum the most. So actuly the lower the lumen output it seem the better.

 

[Seamaiden]

What if I shared some papers with you that seem to show that plants actually do use the green wavelengths?

I agree with you (how can I not and be a thinking human being?), what really matters aren't lumens but PAR/PUR outputs. They're quite different from terrestrial vs aquatic photosynthetics.

 

[aireoponics]

I know that they use green light but they need the least amount of green light compared to red and blue, I think I am familiar with the chart or thread you are referring to. Have you checked out on youtube UVB and ME?

 

[Seamaiden]

No, I only ever use YouTube for music and funny stuff. Mind if I attach the papers in this thread? You're familiar but a lot of other people seem to think that plants are completely blind to green wavelengths.

GOD DAMMIT! I didn't save the papers on my old machine, which means they didn't make it onto my SmartWare HD. Sonofabitch. :evilgrin0040: Now all I can get are the fucking abstracts.

 

[dextr0]

What if I shared some papers with you that seem to show that plants actually do use the green wavelengths?

I agree with you (how can I not and be a thinking human being?), what really matters aren't lumens but PAR/PUR outputs. They're quite different from terrestrial vs aquatic photosynthetics.

Thats a good point sea I remember when I wanted a set up that had green, red, and blue..I to had papers on diff colors but there gone now. Ever since I started using my CMH bulb I stopped looking into light and such. Uv-B was a great interest of mine in relation to trichomes.

aireoponics,

To my understanding when using a bulb such as what you are implying only needs to be used 4 hrs per day to get the uvb in appropriate amounts (what wavelengths are hitting the canopy, how much of each wavelength is hitting the canopy, how much energy is lost from distance also has to be taken into consideration...it gets deep). Anything over that may be detrimental...


I have a link to a thread if your interested not on this site but good info none the less. Gojo is a beast and wish he was around to better explain. Anyway it might give u a better option of using bulbs and how to.

Edit..What I meant to say is you are far more likely to not be using the light in appropriate way to get what you are trying to get. If u want uv-b then thats what u should look to c if that specific bulb emits what u want and at what distance do u need to keep the bulb from canopy to get the desired effect.

 

[Underground]

lumens dont mean anything in growing, lumen is what the human eye sees, human eyes see the green color spectrum best. Plants reflect the green color spectrum the most. So actuly the lower the lumen output it seem the better.

That's the dumbest thing I have ever heard someone actually say. I completely understand what you are saying ( although I believe it is yellow we see best and not green), then you go and say what I highlighted in bold. How is it that you make that correlation? "less lumens = better" I mean? That, in no possible way, speaks to the relevance of lumens vs par. None. Nor does a drop in lumens equate to an increase in par.

I think SM did a great job explaining why it would no be as effective for growing.

 

[aireoponics]

yea i dont know what im talking about

http://blog.captive-aquatics.com/.a/6a010535f11c3d970c0133f5b4a954970b-800wi

 

[Seamaiden]

I got the green light papers from Gojo! I'll be damned...

Aireo, http://blog.captive-aquatics.com/ca...s-the-professional-aquarists-association.html
Friend of mine, the Bobster. This is news to me, though it doesn't surprise me. Been a long time been a long time been a long... time! Oh... shit, that site links back to a couple of sites I've been associated with. Oh well, the people I'm most afraid of already know me, so what's a woman gonna do, stop smoking her weed just because of it? Hell no! I'll keep growing til I can't grow no mo'!

In any event, let's educate instead of denigrate, shall we? Aire is correct, what we're really most interested in are PAR/PUR values. What is PAR, what is PUR? Acronyms, we Americans love 'em and they are as follows:
Photosynthetically Active Radiation
Photosynthetically Usable Radiation
And... I can't find a similar citation for PUR, so I'll give you this, because, apparently, Google gives me fish. What's Google trying to tell me?

 

[dextr0]

PUR Efficiency (µmol/s/W) - Photsynthetically Usable Radiation, how much of this light is actually usable by plants

UVB 315 nm–280 nm

 

[aireoponics]

ok so lets move this thread in the direction of what would be the best bulb for flowering with not the most lumens but that flowers our plants best, or best pur/watt

 

[Seamaiden]

HPS still seem to fit that bill for me, aireo. I used a 4,000K MH bulb for one flowering run, hoping to see some quantifiable difference, and I didn't. Not even trich coverage. Did a side-by-side thinking it would be more obvious to me. I am still chewing on playing around with that 10,000K MH bulb I have lying around, but haven't wired the thing back up.