Log In Register

1st DWC Grow..need help identifying whats wrong

  • Thread starter Thread starter jcsaszar09
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

1st DWC Grow..need help identifying whats wrong

jcsaszar09 56 Replies 5,985 Views
Page 1 of 3 · Replies 1–20 of 57
jcsaszar09

jcsaszar09

Posts
12
Reactions
7
Joined
Sep 24, 2021
Points
3
1st dwc growneed help identifying whats wrong


About to do the 2nd week of feeding and am wondering if a full flush would be better. PH rose over 6.5 but its been around 5.8-6.2 but still no change...i thought maybe a Cal-Mag issue (im using RO water for the buckets)...any help is greatly appreciated!
 
What nutrient line are you running? What all solutions have you added to your ro water? What was your starting and current ppms. Can we see a picture of the roots?
 
currently running fox farms hydro nutrients schedule....this is an Zkittles autoflower so ive cut the amount used by 1/4...First week was 1.5 tsp of Big Bloom, .75 tsp of Grow Big, and a drop of Kangaroots. Current PPM is around 350 and hasnt moved much from last week......tried to get the best pic of the root below...i have 3 other autoflowers growing at the same time another Zkittles, 1 Gelato and 1 Wedding Cake....One thing i noticed is that the water is still very cloudy on this one in question whereas the Wedding cake water is almost clear and i added the same amount of Nutes to all the plants last friday...Ive been keeping the water the bucekts between 64-69 by using a frozen water bottle and its worked really well.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8CF1D82160FA-1.jpeg
    IMG_8CF1D82160FA-1.jpeg
    177.4 KB · Views: 127
I should also state that the other Zkittles plant is starting to show the same effect on the leaves....the two other strains seem to be fine...i also have a Mars Hydro 2000 running at 50% roughly 26 inches from the plants as of right now
 
Sorry i keep forgetting details that might be helpful....i live in Colorado so keeping the humidity between 40-60 has been kind of hard witht he ventilation system running in the grow tent. I have two humidifers going right now one cool mist the other hot (if that makes sense)...the "hot mist" humidifier is closest to this suffering plant so i wasnt sure if the hot water mist could cause something like this...thanks again for all the help!
 
Sorry i keep forgetting details that might be helpful....i live in Colorado so keeping the humidity between 40-60 has been kind of hard witht he ventilation system running in the grow tent. I have two humidifers going right now one cool mist the other hot (if that makes sense)...the "hot mist" humidifier is closest to this suffering plant so i wasnt sure if the hot water mist could cause something like this...thanks again for all the

Hi There is your answer keep humidifiers away from plant as they generate heat /plus if the mist is hot , you will leaf deformations may occur like yours, once your plant grow the 5th node ...top them and raise the ppm to 500-600, keep your p/h 6.0 , make sure you have a small fan or 2 running keep temps at 80 , if its higher use C02 bag...... make sure your air supply to buckets good also
good luck
Dr Stadanko
 
haha what would you recommend?
Well I've had my easiest results with just maxigrow and maxibloom powder. And hydrogen peroxide. I've had other more complex recipes. But this last hydro experiment went so well I decided to use that method for hydro exclusively. I was using 10 grams a gallon. Sometimes a bit less. I never expected scoops of powder to replace my 3 parts plus supplement concoctions. But it did. And was better. Color. Smell. Yield. Texture. Weight. All great. But nothing wrong with a cheap 3 part GH. Or PH perfect. There's also a basic 3 part for hard water that can work well. But I mean. I added one scoop per bucket per week. With peroxide. It was always at 6.0 PH. And under 600 watts it was over a pound a light. Of medium yielding kush. It was my simplest hydro recipe grow attempt. One that even the house keeper could do for a grow. White ashes. 3 days in just tap water before the cut. I am of the less is more school.
 
I want to say you need calmag, but I don't know enough about fox farms. I would say most of us new, and even alot of experienced growers use flora trio and calmag. You can run equal ratios of flora with calmag, say 1ml calmag, 1ml micro, 1ml grow, and 1ml bloom and it will work perfect.

If you were running flora, we would have had you fixed already lol.. I'm sure someone will come tell you the exact def your having but I guess I'll be that guy and say you need calmag.
 
Gonna ask a list of questions here so you can get the right info out.

The basics....
1. Water level

2. Water change frequency

3. List of equipment (all of it including make and models) absolutely everything any fans etc.

4. How are you mixing those nutes... im with @Ponky on thise nutes. Ditch em and I only say that because I see a lot of posts involving them and have no experience with them.

5. What additives are you using? Ph up, ph down, cak mag etc.

6 are you running live or sterile?

Day and night temps.

I'll start by saying get thise humidifiers out of the tent. You condition the room the tent sits in not the tent itself.

Your water temp is to cold.

And I'll save the rest for later.
 
I wont add much cause these guys will help more but for a few basics, ...watch the New growth on Top mostly...dont sweat the beat up under neath stuff as much...
When you do get DWC dialed it will be Fast as Fook...
So get ready cause you have a challenge on your hands..I ran solo DWC buckets for 4 yrs....Loved it!!....Fast growth and massive yields...it was hard to keep up with it!...heheh
I did design a DWC feeding system if you get to a point and want try my method..but its BODWC - Bio Organic DWC...
I used to pull 3-4oz's off of 2gal painters buckets...
This is what Our BubbaOkush looks like at 3+oz in a 2gal solo....
power to it

btw....Im in Englewood now bro.....and hold Real Vintage solid Genetics....hit me up...
FOE20
 

Attachments

  • DWCroots_11-09-08.jpg
    DWCroots_11-09-08.jpg
    123.6 KB · Views: 105
  • DWCroots2_11-09-08.jpg
    DWCroots2_11-09-08.jpg
    108.7 KB · Views: 112
  • BubOGfullViewPic1v2_12-18-06.jpg
    BubOGfullViewPic1v2_12-18-06.jpg
    117.9 KB · Views: 117
I wont add much cause these guys will help more but for a few basics, ...watch the New growth on Top mostly...dont sweat the beat up under neath stuff as much...
When you do get DWC dialed it will be Fast as Fook...
So get ready cause you have a challenge on your hands..I ran solo DWC buckets for 4 yrs....Loved it!!....Fast growth and massive yields...it was hard to keep up with it!...heheh
I did design a DWC feeding system if you get to a point and want try my method..but its BODWC - Bio Organic DWC...
I used to pull 3-4oz's off of 2gal painters buckets...
This is what Our BubbaOkush looks like at 3+oz in a 2gal solo....
power to it
FOE20
I just need to clarify one word I seen a few time.... ok 2 words but who's counting.

Bio organic... assuming this is like teas etc where the nutrients are already in available form and not in organic form. Basically derived from organic sources?

One day I would mind a good discussion on it.

I know organics is not the easiest to do in hydro... speaking organic form where the nutrients are being broken down in the system naturally by bacteria. But I believe it's actually not all that hard to using traditional organic amendments in a system modified to do so. Basically a waterfall through amended media of varying makeups to allow the microbes to flourish and repopulate since most of the specic ones needed require more air exposure and surface area to attach to than the system we run currently.
 
My plant looked similar.

Calmag at an ec of .6 maybe a bit more should fix that.
Imo thats crazy high amount of cal mag.

OP your water level and airstones are going to be crucial at the start. You will also need to be top feeding them once a day or more until the root hit the water.
 
300ppm in Ro works well with a bit of silica and bit of rapid root and of coarse something to keep it clean, hydroguard for example or maybe bio clean

check out this rock star, lol
2 weeks from seed

mind you the roots will be a bit cleaner tonight.
 

Attachments

  • 3E8C4E17-D812-4E8C-881F-BAF85C62BE1C.jpeg
    3E8C4E17-D812-4E8C-881F-BAF85C62BE1C.jpeg
    101.9 KB · Views: 105
300ppm in Ro works well with a bit of silica and bit of rapid root and of coarse something to keep it clean, hydroguard for example or maybe bio clean

check out this rock star, lol
2 weeks from seed

mind you the roots will be a bit cleaner tonight.
If it works it works. Personally I don't see a need to go over about 150ppm of cal mag as long as your environment is allowing for good transpiration rates.
 
I just need to clarify one word I seen a few time.... ok 2 words but who's counting.

Bio organic... assuming this is like teas etc where the nutrients are already in available form and not in organic form. Basically derived from organic sources?

One day I would mind a good discussion on it.

I know organics is not the easiest to do in hydro... speaking organic form where the nutrients are being broken down in the system naturally by bacteria. But I believe it's actually not all that hard to using traditional organic amendments in a system modified to do so. Basically a waterfall through amended media of varying makeups to allow the microbes to flourish and repopulate since most of the specic ones needed require more air exposure and surface area to attach to than the system we run currently.
Was waiting for someone to ask about this...
Bio Organic in my view is a combination of both Raw Organics or a version of concentrated Organics but used in conjunction and in a Biochemistry way....with all sorts of ingredients, Salts or Boosters mixed in used as Supplements to the Base...Its a combination of
"Organic chem.....organic chemistry's dependence on synthesis and reaction problems.
Biochemistry is the branch of science that explores the chemical processes within and related to living organisms....
Biochemistry focuses on processes happening at a molecular level. It focuses on what's happening inside our cells, studying components like proteins, lipids and organelles.
What Im doing is Biochem with Organics and other ingredients on Cannabis.....Think that covers the basics of why I call it Bio-Organic-Chemistry...
@Aqua Man the reason I devised this is cause I found no middle ground between Organics and BioChem....So I created it...
Actually if you look for pH uptake charts...You'll only find 2 versions...Soil/Organic and Hydro...Theres no Organic Hydro...So thats why I did a study on micro elements for over 6yrs... 3 Uptake charts shown, Soil, Hydro..and my own version of Organic Hydro - aka Bio Organic Chemistry in a Hydro application...
To be fair theres more to it then whats shown...The pH ranges Flux in more extreme way in Hydro so my application is based on more then just the base results...
Many other factors to consider but IMO there needed to be a In between from Organic to Hydro....Enjoy

Btw Using Organics in DWC is not simple...Theres many factors to think on and be prepared for...Most use a sterile root bios...
What Im suggesting is not based on sterility...But more working with slight amounts of organics and certain concentrates...power to it
FOE20
 

Attachments

  • PH_Chart-Soil.jpg
    PH_Chart-Soil.jpg
    41.3 KB · Views: 105
  • PH_Chart-Hydro-2.jpg
    PH_Chart-Hydro-2.jpg
    41.1 KB · Views: 98
  • PH_Chart-HydroOrganic-FOE20.jpg
    PH_Chart-HydroOrganic-FOE20.jpg
    41.5 KB · Views: 102
Last edited:
Was waiting for someone to ask about this...
Bio Organic in my view is a combination of both Raw Organics or a version of concentrated Organics but used in conjunction and in a Biochemistry way....with all sorts of ingredients, Salts or Boosters mixed in used as Supplements to the Base...Its a combination of
"Organic chem.....organic chemistry's dependence on synthesis and reaction problems.
Biochemistry is the branch of science that explores the chemical processes within and related to living organisms....
Biochemistry focuses on processes happening at a molecular level. It focuses on what's happening inside our cells, studying components like proteins, lipids and organelles.
What Im doing is Biochem with Organics and other ingredients on Cannabis.....Think that covers the basics of why I call it Bio-Organic-Chemistry...
@Aqua Man the reason I devised this is cause I found no middle ground between Organics and BioChem....So I created it...
Actually if you look for pH uptake charts...You'll only find 2 versions...Soil/Organic and Hydro...Theres no Organic Hydro...So thats why I did a study on micro elements for over 6yrs... 3 Uptake charts shown, Soil, Hydro..and my own version of Organic Hydro - aka Bio Organic Chemistry in a Hydro application...
To be fair theres more to it then whats shown...The pH ranges Flux in more extreme way in Hydro so my application is based on more then just the base results...
Many other factors to consider but IMO there needed to be a In between from Organic to Hydro....Enjoy

Btw Using Organics in DWC is not simple...Theres many factors to think on and be prepared for...Most use a sterile root bios...
What Im suggesting is not based on sterility...But more working with slight amounts of organics and certain concentrates...power to it
FOE20
I'm completely grasping this. I had spent 20 yrs or so breeding fish and propagating aquatic plants and there is no replacement for cycled and will established tank.

With very sensitive species in saltwater you want a tank running for many months to a yr to establish the biodiversity needed for a healthy stable self sustaining environment.

I have built algae scrubbers and have a decent grasp on bacteria and microbes for no formal education.

I am curious how you accomplish this in your system? My brain says the easy way would be a trickle type filter filled with you media such as ceramic, sand, peat (PH control and humic/fulvic acid), even soil with more clay and amendments on different trays for largest pore size to smallest. Sand is an amazing filter (used for such in many pools) that would maximize air exposure and provide tons of surface area for bacteria populations of a wide range of classifications. Basically could use something like a stackable bin system with the bottoms cut out and window screen and filter sponge (also a great home for bacteria) to line them.

Basically a recirc system with a biofilter that serves as nutrient source and provides a huge amount of benefit to preventing any root infections.

Ok I'll stop my rambling I could go on for days lol
 
I just need to clarify one word I seen a few time.... ok 2 words but who's counting.

Bio organic... assuming this is like teas etc where the nutrients are already in available form and not in organic form. Basically derived from organic sources?

One day I would mind a good discussion on it.

I know organics is not the easiest to do in hydro... speaking organic form where the nutrients are being broken down in the system naturally by bacteria. But I believe it's actually not all that hard to using traditional organic amendments in a system modified to do so. Basically a waterfall through amended media of varying makeups to allow the microbes to flourish and repopulate since most of the specic ones needed require more air exposure and surface area to attach to than the system we run currently.

Never been a better time for you to start a new topic on Organic Tea's and other things indoor organic. πŸ‘πŸ™‚
 
Page 1 of 3 · Replies 1–20 of 57
Back
Top Bottom