Aqua Man
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I'm going nowhere brother this place, members and staff are like family to me.
I'm going nowhere brother this place, members and staff are like family to me.So I wasn't for sure what to do with my building. I now plan on moving into the basement and renting my house.
This would leave me with approx 3500 sqft of floor space upstairs with 25ft at peak vaulted ceilings lol.. I should grow weed, but I can't legally and my current grows are legal. Long story short, I will have to build a biofloc shrimp farm upstairs. I might add another level if I can keep it short enough.
So this plan will take a few years. Once I draw up the floor plans, and my purchase list for equipment, feed and all thst shit.. I will have to hit you up. You better be around for a few years lol.. I just know it will work perfect with your help so I'd be dumb not to. The startup cost isn't that much compared to most businesses and I live in the mid west, no access to fresh not frozen shrimp except for farms like what I want.
Or you could just run the water thru some plants and let them take care of the nitrates.No shrimp in aquaponics they are to sensitive to nitrogen etc.
Tilapia work well.
The bacteria that consume nitrates are anaerobic not exactly what we want. The nitrogen conversion is done by several different bacteria and you can grow your own colony without anything else but water and ammonia as they will occur natural and then you adjust the bioload and surface area they can attach to. It goes ammonia to nitrite then nitrite to nitrates thise are both aerobic and then nitrogen consuming are anaerobic. What you are looking for is an algae scrubber... I have made a few and sized properly I can keep my nitrates under 10ppm and most of the tie almost 0. You want a certain type of algae that's fast growing. I found green hair algae to be the best. I ca walk ya through how to make one if you like
Thing is not many plants that are not aquatic that will live off very low nutrients. Micrograms and things like herbs and lettuce would prob work well. The green hair algae will eat to 0 ppm the downside is the bioload determines the sq footage and they could be dam huge in some cases.Or you could just run the water thru some plants and let them take care of the nitrates.
So it's about 30ft wide. That ibeam is dead center. Pretty sure I could fill the entire upstairs with water lol.Ok I was reading there are some freshwater lrwns that are suitable but they like shrimp are sensitive and need good water quality. The benefit is a large part of thier diet is algae. So you can save on food by doing algae scrubbers on a large scale and not the commercial ones that are kinda retarded imo.
@Cashmeh I'm curious though have you considered the weigh of water in an upstairs location?
That alone to me would make it unfeasible. Water is I think 8.33lb per gal and on the level I'm assuming you are thinking seems like something you have to consider.
In sterile systems yes. Yet in my system since I use microbes, they actually lower my ph once colonized. That said, the plants natural growth will raise the ph. Mine stays roughly the same always lol..PH and PPM relationship
Can someone please confirm and/or correct me on my understanding of PH and PPM..
I'm understanding it like this:
If PH rises slowly and PPM rises significantly like 50-100 increase that means the plant is drinking just water and im probably locking the nutes out from the plant. To correct this i should put more fresh water in to lower the ppm
If ph rises say from say 5.8 to 6.4 and the PPM has dropped that means that the plant is taking in the nutes causing the PH to jump and i could add more nutrient water
If PH and PPM hold steady they are in balance....is that a good thing?
Any help i smuch appreciated!
After adding the cal-mag and monitoring PPM and PH levels twice daily that struggling plant is making a come back...the new growth looks nice and green!
that makes sense thank you!In sterile systems yes. Yet in my system since I use microbes, they actually lower my ph once colonized. That said, the plants natural growth will raise the ph. Mine stays roughly the same always lol..
I wouldn't directly link ph and ppm either.
I might be wrong here but I feel the lower your ph, the faster the plant absorbs nutrients. I also don't believe in hydro underfeeding. I vegged some pretty big plants at 300ppm. I would say you want your ppm to drop slowly, and you want your ph to not fluctuate.
Larger system capacity does wonder for ph swings.
Example if you had 100 gallons in that system, you wouldn't notice you ph move... Hell it might take 2 full days to drop 10ppm points...
I'm not saying they are not linked, perhaps they are, I just think there are too many variables for them to be.
i thought so too, i have the filter attached to my sink faucet, it is almost tim eto replace it so maybe itll drop after thatRO should be coming in a lot closer to zero , mine for eg is 4-6
Thats not a true ro unit. Those sink filters don't do nothing for filtration.i thought so too, i have the filter attached to my sink faucet, it is almost tim eto replace it so maybe itll drop after that
well that makes a lot more sense nowThats not a true ro unit. Those sink filters don't do nothing for filtration.
I got my under sink ro system for 50 bucks. After 400gallon ran through it my ppm is 11.
Nah it just trickles thorough.. Slow flowWould a unit like this also required some sort of pressure vessel to force the water through the membrane?
A booster pump will give you better gallons per day. My booster pump runs at 150 psiWould a unit like this also required some sort of pressure vessel to force the water through the membrane?
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