PiffinOut
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I think that no matter how good cobs get, they'll never be as good as strips. And at the moment the best strips might be the lm301h sl strips (in terms of both efficiency and spectrum).
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On strips, the diodes are more spread out so they are easier to cool and are therefore more efficient.Strips are essentially the same thing as COBs just laid out differently and only capable of mid range power. The spectrum can be changed with both depending on the phosphor coat. Efficiency is relative. The most efficient light is pretty dark.
On strips, the diodes are more spread out so they are easier to cool and are therefore more efficient.
I agree that you should pick the right tool for the job. I just don't see when cobs would be that tool. They undisputedly have worse coverage and efficiency.timber lighting still disagrees and only offers strip lights for low ceiling height or vertical racks. Cobs still rule for trees.
The answer is to pick the right tool for the job. Not parrot the current marketing.
Diodes run brighter when cooler.dont know where you got this info but same diodes at same wattage same efficiency. Possible longer life with better cooling but only more even spread for sure with strips. Which is why they can be placed closer to the plants.
Diodes run brighter when cooler.
Look at an lm301 datasheet. There will be a luminous flux/temperature graph.no i dont think so. an overheated one would be dimmer eventually.
I agree that you should pick the right tool for the job. I just don't see when cobs would be that tool. They undisputedly have worse coverage and efficiency.
Look at an lm301 datasheet. There will be a luminous flux/temperature graph.
It's the difference between 950 and 1000 ppfd. I'd take the 1000 with better coverage any day.i dont doubt there is a minor difference but it doesnt apply to the minor difference in layout of diodes. And it sure doesnt matter to the plants.
Even the difference between the old samsung diodes and new ones is very minor to final results.
It's the difference between 950 and 1000 ppfd. I'd take the 1000 with better coverage any day.
That's just from the temperature difference. The coverage is also a factor. Without good coverage, you could have a super bright light but not be able to use all of it because it would just burn the plants in the middle.better remove all the lowers and start spreading out your colas. ;-)
but seriously you are way overthinking this. 50 ppf is not going to matter over gardening skills.
That's just from the temperature difference. The coverage is also a factor. Without good coverage, you could have a super bright light but not be able to use all of it because it would just burn the plants in the middle.
Just a side note that is unrelated to horticulture. Im finding the discussion bit on strips here to be somewhat entertaining, as they have been all the rage for planted/reef tanks for a few years now.
I think thats primarily due to strips producing very even and uniform light distribution within the tank which wont blind the fish or create hotspots for algae blooms. Some people use cree led spotlights for specific intensive centerpiece plants but for the most part everyone raves about strips for general light canopy coverage. In my brief research on this forum I was kinda suprised strips havent really made their way into the horticulture as much as they have in aquaculture but I figure that it was due to very different environments and general lighting requirements from being underwater.
In the aquatic community even PAR coverage and reflection area is everything, especially for reaching large background plants and carpeting foreground plants like dwarf hairgrass. Very energy intensive centerpiece plants like red tiger lilies usually get their own dedicated spotlight style fixture to keep the plant compact and encourage it to branch within a specified range.
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