3% Hydrogen Peroxide dosage rate for natural fungicide use

[ghost79]

When it comes to foliar spraying your crop w/ a natural fungicide, 3% hydrogen peroxide is what to use. My question is what's the correct/accurate dosage rate and frequency for using 3%H.P. Example: How many teaspoons,ect./ gallon of water do I use for it to be effective when foliar spraying w/ hydrogen peroxide? Please help me out, I have a fungal disease and need to wipe it out A.S.A.P. Thanks guys/gals:)

 

[LexLuthor]

I don't think your suppose to dilute 3% peroxide alot. People use 30+% peroxide and dilute it down to 2-3% so you could probably use it 50/50 peroxide/water. I've never used it before so I'm not positive about this, but thats just my opinion so hopefully someone with exp. using hydrogen peroxide will be able to verify if I'm correct or not, good luck with your plants.

 

[mchappy]

I don't think your suppose to dilute 3% peroxide alot. People use 30+% peroxide and dilute it down to 2-3% so you could probably use it 50/50 peroxide/water. I've never used it before so I'm not positive about this, but thats just my opinion so hopefully someone with exp. using hydrogen peroxide will be able to verify if I'm correct or not, good luck with your plants.

Correct. Ideally you get the food grade H2O2 at 30% and dilute but if you cant find/afford it you can use the 3% straight or dilute slightly to make it go a little farther

 

[Lowman]

3% HP should be diluted to 30ml/Gallon of water.

 

[mal]

How can you say its what to use then ask how much to use, kinda funny LOL. I hope all is well with you and yours

I've got termites that will eat my root stem right in two so when I see a plant they have affected I will dump a full bottle of the 3% h2o2 right around the stem and the plant will usually make it to harvest FYI

mal

 

[LexLuthor]

3% HP should be diluted to 30ml/Gallon of water.

Bro, if you dilute 3% peroxide at 30 ml per gallon, your gonna end up with a solution thats about 7/100th of 1% hydrogen peroxide. I have never heard of anyone diluting peroxide to such a weak solution. I'm not saying your wrong, but if you don't mind I would like for you to explain how you came to that number. I know foliar's are suppose to be weaker then most root drench solutions, but it just seems like such an insignificant amount that it won't have any effect.

 

[ghost79]

Which one of you is correct? I need to be certain. Hopefully someone with experience w/ H.P. knows, hopefully you're reading this right now. I know for a fact that H.P. kills fungus on contact and is very effective. However, I'm new to using H.P. obviously. I don't know which one of you is correct, if any of you are at all, not saying you aren't, I just need to hear more than one person backing one application rate up to be certain. Anyway's, thanks a lot to you al,l good luck this season!!

 

[Lowman]

Bro, if you dilute 3% peroxide at 30 ml per gallon, your gonna end up with a solution thats about 7/100th of 1% hydrogen peroxide. I have never heard of anyone diluting peroxide to such a weak solution. I'm not saying your wrong, but if you don't mind I would like for you to explain how you came to that number. I know foliar's are suppose to be weaker then most root drench solutions, but it just seems like such an insignificant amount that it won't have any effect.

I ddn't say that is the strongest dilution to use. Most articles I have read state 3ml/gallon of 30% HP. If you do the math...I get 30ml/gallon of 3% HP. No doubt it can be used at stronger levels.

 

[ghost79]

now i got to do math

 

[GR33NL3AF]

Ive sprayed with straight 3%, works great...No harm or notice on final product. Spray away.

 

[LexLuthor]

I ddn't say that is the strongest dilution to use. Most articles I have read state 3ml/gallon of 30% HP. If you do the math...I get 30ml/gallon of 3% HP. No doubt it can be used at stronger levels.

Thats cool, your just going by what you have seen in articles and I'm going by what I've seen from growers. I have always heard if you dilute 30% down to 2-3% it will work great.

So ghost, I think you found your answer, multiple people said its perfectly fine to use it at 3% and they have done it before with good results, so you should be fine without any dilution, but if you want it could be diluted 50/50 just to make it last longer.

 

[Chobble]

Its 3% H202 preferably food grade. Dont dilute 3% 50/50. I dont even agree that this is the best method, but go for it.

It will kill anything currently living on the leaf and quickly dissipate as the extra molecule of oxygen is lost. It is really pointless to use this as a preventative. It just kills any beneficial life and opens up a lot of room for things to grow.

Now if you where to do treat with hydrogen peroxide and then treat with a fungal compost tea you may be in a better position

Chobble

 

[StonerB]

Not to worry you but you can spray whatever percent you want and it wont kill ALL the disease. Fungal infections are spread by VERY tiny spores that become easily airborne. Unless you are willing to spray inside your ventilation systems, which is near impossible you will still have spores floating around waiting for the right environment to start all over again. The spray ideas are good to limp you through untill harvest but the real fix is to moniter and/or fix the cause which is normally an environment issue. Even if your humidity and ventilation is in check these tiny spores can be brought in on clothing or by invading pests. Once its in your room one of the only ways to knock it completely out is by burning sulpher. The sulpher fumes are one of the few solutions that will get into evry nook and cranny of the room including your ventilation systems that are now infected with spores. I wouldnt do this with a crop in the room but if you can get to the harvest with the sprays, in-between crops sulpher the shit out of the room with ALL your tools inside of it. I have heard of people sterilizing rooms with heavy doses of ozone but ozone itself is dangerous and unpredictable. At least with the acid gas you know the exact risks. Once you have sterilized the room many growers use some form of UV sterilizing on their air systems to prevent it from happening again. Also be sure to have filters on ALL incoming air if you run a vented room. A sealed room is somewhat less an issue but it can still come in on clothing or tools. Fungus is a bitch no matter how you look at it so its best to prevent it from the get go. Some will even re-build entire rooms because of persistant infections.

 

[Chobble]

Not to worry you but you can spray whatever percent you want and it wont kill ALL the disease. Fungal infections are spread by VERY tiny spores that become easily airborne. Unless you are willing to spray inside your ventilation systems, which is near impossible you will still have spores floating around waiting for the right environment to start all over again. The spray ideas are good to limp you through untill harvest but the real fix is to moniter and/or fix the cause which is normally an environment issue. Even if your humidity and ventilation is in check these tiny spores can be brought in on clothing or by invading pests. Once its in your room one of the only ways to knock it completely out is by burning sulpher. The sulpher fumes are one of the few solutions that will get into evry nook and cranny of the room including your ventilation systems that are now infected with spores. I wouldnt do this with a crop in the room but if you can get to the harvest with the sprays, in-between crops sulpher the shit out of the room with ALL your tools inside of it. I have heard of people sterilizing rooms with heavy doses of ozone but ozone itself is dangerous and unpredictable. At least with the acid gas you know the exact risks. Once you have sterilized the room many growers use some form of UV sterilizing on their air systems to prevent it from happening again. Also be sure to have filters on ALL incoming air if you run a vented room. A sealed room is somewhat less an issue but it can still come in on clothing or tools. Fungus is a bitch no matter how you look at it so its best to prevent it from the get go. Some will even re-build entire rooms because of persistant infections.

fyi, This is a thread in outdoor growing. Pretty much all of this is null and void outside.

Chobble

 

[StonerB]

^^^^^damn I should have read more. Sorry about that. Outdoors is a whole other animal. Pretty much no options but to spray. Being outdoors I agree with Chobble 100% that a compost tea is the way to go. Sure the peroxide is naturally derived but its not the way nature works. Bad fungi should be kept in check with good fungi. Bad bacteria should be killed with good bacteria. Out doors will never be sterile and thats what the peroxide is trying to do. A good compost tea will not give overnight results but its going to do much better in the long run for your plant. Ive seen negative results in end product from the peroxide. It tends to overdry everything it touches. You lose most if not all smell and flovor also when used consistantly. You get a flower thats unnaturally clean if that makes sense. Im sure evryone has seen the jorge cervantes video of him doing it and sure it kills the fungi but the flowers will taste like ass. Unless the flowers will be used for cooking, extracting or something like that I would stay away from the peroxide.

 

[ghost79]

What kind of compost tea would you "StonerB"? and Chobble use? And anyone else for that matter. That sounds good, a healthy dose of compost tea. however, I'm not familiar with teas. where could I purchase some premaid compost tea? Or should I make it and how? Thanks a million;)

 

[Chobble]

^^^^^damn I should have read more. Sorry about that. Outdoors is a whole other animal. Pretty much no options but to spray. Being outdoors I agree with Chobble 100% that a compost tea is the way to go. Sure the peroxide is naturally derived but its not the way nature works. Bad fungi should be kept in check with good fungi. Bad bacteria should be killed with good bacteria. Out doors will never be sterile and thats what the peroxide is trying to do. A good compost tea will not give overnight results but its going to do much better in the long run for your plant. Ive seen negative results in end product from the peroxide. It tends to overdry everything it touches. You lose most if not all smell and flovor also when used consistantly. You get a flower thats unnaturally clean if that makes sense. Im sure evryone has seen the jorge cervantes video of him doing it and sure it kills the fungi but the flowers will taste like ass. Unless the flowers will be used for cooking, extracting or something like that I would stay away from the peroxide.

Yeah.. Thats why I only recommend one "Nuking" of H202. The idea is to open up as much room for the new beneficial to have a home. H202 used repedably is never a good idea. Plants don't have a natural enzyme we do to protect our cells from its harmful properties. Thus why it fizzes etc in an open wound, it cleans out the dead cells and the alive ones are un-effected due to this one enzyme (I'm not opening a bio book at the moment, do some research if you want its name really isnt important). Thats what translates into the plant drying out.

What kind of compost tea would you "StonerB"? and Chobble use? And anyone else for that matter. That sounds good, a healthy dose of compost tea. however, I'm not familiar with teas. where could I purchase some premaid compost tea? Or should I make it and how? Thanks a million;)

I own/run a company that makes and delivers compost tea to over 20 farms here in Santa Cruz County. If you need a few gallons I can hook you up with a sample.

If thats out of your way, Making compost tea is actually a lot easier then it sounds. Pick up a good bag of worm castings, some unsulfured molasses (Health food stores sell this in bulk and for about a 1/4 of the price hydro stores sell it to you), a fish tank pump and a hydroponic airstone (The long ones not the little dinky ones for a fish tank).

There are plenty of great places on the web with simple tutorials but Compost tea is a fertilizer, pesticide and fungicide and it will be the best investment you ever make. Toss me a PM or whatevs if yo uhave any more questions about making it, I brew about 800-900 gallons a week.

Chobble

 

[StonerB]

Vermi-T is one of the easiest to find but you are way better brewing your own. Most hydro stores brew this up about once a week and then store it in the fridge. The refrigeration kills off some of the life so its always best to use it the day its brewed. I would bet the one created by "chobble" is just as good or better so try his out. The best thing about this stuff is its nearly impossible to overdose with it. It can be used from germination all the way through harvest. Once you get the basics of brewing the worm tea its very easy to add some NPK in with it by adding various guanos to the brewer. Some guanos are high N and others are almost all PK but all the above come with massive doses of bennies. Many outdoor growers brew there own nutes this way because the price of the bulk guanos is way cheaper than any of the popular liquid lines. Just be aware that when brewing guanos and teas you must plan your feeding a day or two ahead of time to allow the brewing process to do its thing. Personally I will always add a little kelp into all brews also. Floralicious plus or Liquid karma are good sources of kelp to add to the brews. If you start brewing a bunch of it the molasis can be bought in 5 gallon jugs at feed supply stores.

 

[J777]

would peroxide work on bud rot???!!! went out to the palnts today any found some on some the buds??

 

[another_sellout]

Cut that bud and bury it in your compost pile. Bud rot has to be removed. Sorry about your loss.