4x8 Cali Connection Sfv Og

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Monster762

Monster762

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What do you guys think this issue is?
First I’m no pro at all.
Chit where are these from. Lower or upper. One looks like it was shaded n low airflow maybe spotting n probably wanting to fungi up. Lower leaf?
the other looks burned. Like p or even wind burn
higher up the plant maybe.

You check for bugs or rely on the ladybugs? And how well they work? Will they stay in a box n eat mites for real? I got broad mites but not in flower. Ladybugs is a lot cheaper than predators.
 
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eirk66

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5 or 6 bucks for 1500 cheap ipm ;) had aphids in veg got ride of em with the lady bugs.
 
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eirk66

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I went through every plant cleaned up all the bottoms and checked runoff on every plant. I marked the ones that were over 1000ppm highest one was 1500ppm on 700 scale and lower on ph 5.5-5.6 for lower side 5.6-5.9 I left alone will start watering with higher ph. Watered with around 6.0 and 180-200ppm.
 
Monster762

Monster762

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5 or 6 bucks for 1500 cheap ipm ;) had aphids in veg got ride of em with the lady bugs.
I know how cheap they are. Did they work? Supposedly ladybug attacks all mites n all. Do they just die off when food is gone? Do they escape easy?
 
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eirk66

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So I bought 1500 one bag. Then had abounch died to hot I think I was off by 3 weeks in temp change before it got cold so cal. Bought another bag of 1500 and it’s been enough to take care of bug problem. Also leave a couple of paper towels of water for them. I didn’t give any food to force them to force them to eat bugs or not eat basically.
 
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eirk66

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I know how cheap they are. Did they work? Supposedly ladybug attacks all mites n all. Do they just die off when food is gone? Do they escape easy?
Most lady bugs are gone now they worked well and I’d recommend giving them a shot instead of spraying something. Since most are gone vaccumed any dead ones up cleand bottom leaves and put sticky pads down.
 
Monster762

Monster762

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Most lady bugs are gone now they worked well and I’d recommend giving them a shot instead of spraying something. Since most are gone vaccumed any dead ones up cleand bottom leaves and put sticky pads down.
I’ll Definately Keep it in mind. I’m bug free now. They never made it to flower room thankfully.
 
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eirk66

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1/8 update
Still having high Ppm run off. just feed couple days ago around 550ppm and run off on the highest 1800+Ppm. Feed today 280ppm out 600ppm-1600ppm trying to get those numbers down.
 
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eirk66

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Any one have any other suggestions on the high ppm issue that I’m having or recommend different flushing just don’t want to hit it with nothing in mid flower. Thanks.
 
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WesleySnipes

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Any one have any other suggestions on the high ppm issue that I’m having or recommend different flushing just don’t want to hit it with nothing in mid flower. Thanks.
Your runoff numbers are not nearly as bad as you think. High runoff especially in coco is not a big concern due to its CEC, the cocos natural tendency to hold onto certain nutrients which it keeps away and doesnt allow the plant to use. You pH is way to low also, 6.0-6.3 is where you should be at, anything below 6.0 is getting to low (coco is not as similar to hydro as people are often led to believe). When you flush rather than using low PPM water like you were use a nomal strength feed but increase the volume of water to flush out whats left over and replacing it with the standard feed. The reason runoff like thid is important is because the plant always needs to eat. Think about it like you getting a McDonald's meal for every meal. Burger, fries, cola and when you're done eating there is still some fries left. And your next meal they bring you has fries even though you didnt eat all the fries from your previous meal. After 10 meals you have way to many uneaten leftover fries built up. That's just like when you feed your plant what it doesn't want it leaves behind. So next time (even every few feeds) you feed, you need to flush the "leftover fries" out by achieving runoff. Fyi I was never known for my analogies but it does the trick.
 
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eirk66

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Your runoff numbers are not nearly as bad as you think. High runoff especially in coco is not a big concern due to its CEC, the cocos natural tendency to hold onto certain nutrients which it keeps away and doesnt allow the plant to use. You pH is way to low also, 6.0-6.3 is where you should be at, anything below 6.0 is getting to low (coco is not as similar to hydro as people are often led to believe). When you flush rather than using low PPM water like you were use a nomal strength feed but increase the volume of water to flush out whats left over and replacing it with the standard feed. The reason runoff like thid is important is because the plant always needs to eat. Think about it like you getting a McDonald's meal for every meal. Burger, fries, cola and when you're done eating there is still some fries left. And your next meal they bring you has fries even though you didnt eat all the fries from your previous meal. After 10 meals you have way to many uneaten leftover fries built up. That's just like when you feed your plant what it doesn't want it leaves behind. So next time (even every few feeds) you feed, you need to flush the "leftover fries" out by achieving runoff. Fyi I was never known for my analogies but it does the trick.

So I just finished running about 60 gals of RO Water with clearrex and shot vacing got everything down to about 150ppm or less and 5.5-6ph. I will start feeding at quarter strength and add mammoth p.

Was a mission to do. Thank you for your response I will definitely bump the ph up on feeds.
 
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Burned Haze

Guest
Check under microscope 60x-100x scope, if mites ( one of your pictures it looks like pests )figure out what kind of mites species it is ( two spot, broad, russets ,broad) figure it out cause blindly fighting or assuming is just dumb. IPM is the key!



I would rotate from 4-6 products (that are ultra safe ) and even combo combine so you don’t ever make a super pest and guarantee you kill the all the stages of the pests.


1. Azaguard : 2x rate by concentration than azamax and approved everywhere ( applied foliar till 3-4th week , drench pest 5-6th week) the reason I apply this first is so they stop reproducing as fast.
2. Grandevo wdg:amazing IPM/preventive fighter for spider mites/tons of pests , can be used as drench and foliar (till 3rd week flower)
3.venerate xc :safe in flower stage In foliar (great tool to fight russet might with using grandevo /pfr/pyganic. So many people think it’s imposible but you can actually defeat them with these safe products )
4.PYGANIC 5.0 instantly kills all spider mites and works safely ( they use it to even kill pests on animals or bed bugs lols) it’s a flower
5.pfr97: shit tons of bennies to kill them pests/IPM
6.Botanigard 22 wp super safe, can be applied unlimited times (all the to harvest) and no resistance!. You can mix grandevo , pfr97,Botanigard 22wp together to make a super brew
7. 3-5% h202 with wetting agent (cleanses and dries pests, def pisses the off, ) use r/o water, cold water
8. Citric based pesticide like flying skull or dr Zymes would also help cause that’s a Instant




People will rely on one product/IPM plan but they won’t realize that the product isn’t killing all stages or all pest % and if anything that’s why most manuals say you need to rotate your defenses . People just deny it to yourself
 
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eirk66

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I think it was the ppm and low ph caused lock out. I’ll double check with scope tonight though and thank you for that good information and recommendations.
 
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