stltoed
- 324
- 93
What if you added walls to the inside of your tub? Or just do seperate tubs. The walls don't need to be perfect. Just enough to help isolate each root system. Even if they do get tangled, you could seperate them fairly regularly by hand so they dont clump together. Seems like seperate tubs would be easiest in the long run.Perpetual system. I have a flower room and a veg room. My clones will be thrown away. I will be starting 6 new seeds in a few weeks. From now on my big hydro room will be on 12/12, and my veg tent the clones are in will always be 18/6. So these wont ever go to flower, they will actually get thrown away. This was more for just pratice, now I know how easy it is to clone using hydro. But the plant/s in the picture is showing pistols, so its flowering already.
I would plant them now but im working out mentally how to stop my roots from tangling together and require cutting. Every option i can think of, like placing plastic weaving inside the tote, sounds good, yet ill still have to cut them out of it since it wont work for transplant. Only think I can think of is to fill my entire tote with hydroton, but its expensive. Ive never had a problem reusing it either. . but it will take away from my total water capacity, which is my favorite part. Perhaps I should add a res, and fill the tote with hydroton, then add water. I dont see how the roots could tangle then. A partition would work, but then i would need a waterfall for each section. . uhh. . not easy. .ill get there.
So i wanted to avoid all external plumbing, no gaskets, no bulkheads nothing that could leak. Once I get a new lid there will be no plumbing on top of it unlike currently.What if you added walls to the inside of your tub? Or just do seperate tubs. The walls don't need to be perfect. Just enough to help isolate each root system. Even if they do get tangled, you could seperate them fairly regularly by hand so they dont clump together. Seems like seperate tubs would be easiest in the long run.
Roots are fairly resilient. I chop the shit out of Moms when I root prune. It doesn't usually take too long to come back.
It wouldn't be hard to do. Just need some plastic sheet. What it would do is give you time to check roots and let you pull the ones apart that are getting comfortable with its neighbor. I hope it works for you!So i wanted to avoid all external plumbing, no gaskets, no bulkheads nothing that could leak. Once I get a new lid there will be no plumbing on top of it unlike currently.
I like the partition idea the best honestly. I could build a solid tic tac toe(like) partition, set it in the res where the top is water level. Then ill just have my t's do 2 sides, just pouring over top of the partion. . hmm i like it man. .way better than attaching res's or using hydroton. . i just needed a push in the right direction lol, ty
Ditch the mylar as it won't help reduce heat much. If temls an issue insulate the pipes and buckets.Less than a minute video @Aqua Man. All it doesn't show is inside my res and pure white roots, no tint to them.. And massive root mass. More mass under water than above lol..
Im done tucking, ph stable now at 5.7 for two days. Ppm went from 620 down to 550 over a week or so, prolly longer. Forgot when I made this batch. I could top it off with water, I imagine it's consumed around 1/4 of my system capacity lol.. Over 20 gallons and the ppm is still dropping.
Just wanting your overall thoughts as I plan on repeating this exact same process.
Today is 2 months from dry seeds that were placed in RO water. I had never grown as of Feb.
If you had to change one thing, an upgrade. . What would you change..im saying you have to make this system better to run multiple strains. I do plan on vegging them longer. And imma add another scrog for bud weight.
Also got my next seeds that will enter this system. That should be a real interesting grow lol..
I was starting to think its impossible to kill a plant in these systems. Your saying pathogens could be my worst issue. In that case I need to remove my carpet too lol. I also want to switch my light ventilation system up. Instead of cooling the lights with the room air, I want to strait pipe those lights through the room, and just pull regular house air 71f through the lights. It should cool them more due house air 71 and grow room air 77. Then I will have what they call a sealed, or somewhat sealed room. Perhaps then my window unit wont need to run for the entire 12hrs.Ditch the mylar as it won't help reduce heat much. If temls an issue insulate the pipes and buckets.
Expensive but possibly worth putting a shut off and union for each bucket so you can move em for pruning or have on sick and die can remove from the system.
If HID Possibly switch to LED
Once you start getting to upper 70f things can go wrong really fast. Personally I found no faster growth over 74f but that just personal observation.I was starting to think its impossible to kill a plant in these systems. Your saying pathogens could be my worst issue. In that case I need to remove my carpet too lol. I also want to switch my light ventilation system up. Instead of cooling the lights with the room air, I want to strait pipe those lights through the room, and just pull regular house air 71f through the lights. It should cool them more due house air 71 and grow room air 77. Then I will have what they call a sealed, or somewhat sealed room. Perhaps then my window unit wont need to run for the entire 12hrs.
Ironically, I will only be buying more HIDS due to their price. I can install and vent a 1000w hid for under 200 bucks, covering a 4x4 flower footprint. With becoming a caregiver, i might not be able to do expensive upgrades as to needing more grow rooms. I will agree, I shouldnt be running hids, only leds.
So your saying ditch the mylar on top of the buckets right, not the walls lol. So im having troubles keeping my res temps up honestly. I put that aquarium heater in and at lights off water gets 69, lights on 70-71. Just takes all day to heat up with a 100w aquarium heater. I put the mylar on the top of the bucket lids to stop light from blasting through the netpots, and to reflect the light back up. I took off carpet i had laying over my return line as to heat the water faster. I only had it on there to stop light leaks from entering. My main goal is stopping light from entering the system and maintaing a constant res temp of 72. My dumb ass bumped my window unit and turned it to high fan instead of high cool, and yea. .it ran like that for 24hrs apparently. I got off work yesterday, entered my grow room, and got blasted with 77F, opened the flower room and its reading 83, res temps were 76 lol. . i was like well shit. . thats one way to do it. My fear is my grow room temp going over 80, idk why but i try to keep it under 80. Cant really explain that one . . anyways. .thanks for your advice as usual sir
Last question, have you tried running res temps at 77? Sounds impossible due to microbial growth, but have you tried it lol. .Im just saying, when i got home yesterday, and that res temp hit 77, them plants looked like they loved it. Idk. . I guess im saying is it benefitial if someone could control it, or are there no gains and just adding extra work fighting microbes. oh and wont I have a less chance of random pathogens since im running a live system, meaning multiple strains issues.
SexyHad to defoliate a bit, it a little thick in some places. Also topped off res with around 15 gallon. Added silica blast and then my usual combo.
I put a video of my res on before I added anything. This res was a few weeks old. No slime on the tote itself. Just a hair on the air/water lines. Little bit of floaties but smells fine, like an aquarium almost lol.. No rotting or anything unusual.
Roots look great and are in the first video.
Ppms 560, ph 5.6, water temp 73
View attachment 1174808
View attachment 1174810
Plants look good man!
Thanks man. It's actually pretty stable too.Plants look good man!
Calmag issues can be trying.Thanks man. It's actually pretty stable too.
I don't have to tell anyone lol, I could act like all has went perfect. Yet I'm pretty sure I ran the system low on calmag. The best looking plant had what looked like some calmag, which is why I topped off early. Funny cause the rest were perfect. Regardless I must of caught it instantly due to new growth being perfect now and stupid fast. I also upped my calmag % for flowering from now on now too just incase. I was putting equal micro and calmag in lol.. Then half of that grow, then I double my micro/calmag dose and that's my bloom blend. I imagine I can cut my micro back and bump my calmag. Basically less micro more calmag.
I need to buy some more testing kits, npk would be nice to comprehend, and perhaps salinity... For future endeavors.
So basically the bottom right plant should be bigger lol..
So after typing this I have to frame up another door in the back by the fan. I can pull the fan out and crawl around under and hopefully find a spot to stand up.You are going to have your hands full when this is in full flower.. There's no room for you in there as it is.. Valid, certainly, no wasted words.. Happy? about the same..
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?