Planter01
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as I said, you know you can grow, your plants know this too. sometimes nature provides conditions for grey mold to flourish, sometimes its white mold from an influx of butterflies without competition, or some other virus as a consequence of hail or heavy rain, itself caused by gram positive microbes freezing water where temperatures might otherwise prohibit.@Organikz I've got kelp, Irish moss, bladderwort as well as lobster bodies, fish skins, hog chit, shells and I mow down the winter rye and buckwheat for the heat so what's the difference if I also use magnesium sulfate which is organic as dirt. Are the fulvic, saponin acids not present in my compost recipe. Even my indoor plants regularly get a rinsed. seaweed tea and even a tea made of finished compost. I've used an aerator in the past but haven't seen enough benifit to continue. Ill tell you @Organikz I dont leave the house without a handgun. Better to have and not need. Just picked up a 1000 124g CP RN bullets to reload. Those bullets will ride on 4.6 grains of W231and CCI primers. The best defense is a good offence. @Ecompost first off I like the Gill Scott sentiment. The absence and the threat are the obvious but the planning is spot on. Peace while building up the military does sort of defeat the purpose. God DAMMIT. Those plants were NEITHER overwatered or overfed. They are in nuteless Pro-Mix and have only gotten a touch of "tipping roots" I think it's called and just the smallest taste of nitrogen. I know how to water and i let them dry out a bit simple because the roots will take in some O2. I really do appreciate the guidance from all of you and i look into anything that might be a benifit whether indoors, outdoors or in the fruit and veggie garden. It took awhile to park the Roto tiller but accumulated knowledge and advice have led me to garden using cover crops a broad fork and a thick top dressing of compost. I change my growing methods willingly for improvement. @Ecompost the Botrytis beat me to a bloody pulp last year outdoors so I'll look into the controls you mention with great interest. Someone mentioned breeders breeding for drought, starvation and pest tolerence but i dont see it. As long as were getting 8 phenos out of a 10 pack of beans the breeding is incomplete and just a name. To find a variety that gives me what I want would be a god send. Botrytis brings tears to my eyes whenever I see the first sign and I have never won the battle. The last time I got repeatable results with a variety goes all the way back to 1982/83. I'm sorry I lost the lineage. I kept it going for years before I lost it. But I digress. I appreciate the advice and it all gets taken into account. Rock On
There is no stopping these molds buddy, they are as crucial to life as they are irritating for growers. I am sorry if I gave you the impression we might do anything other than attempt to inhibit the production of the certain proteins, themselves linked to the hosting and ongoing necrotrhopism of the mold.@Ecompost . I've tried bagging entire plants at the first sign of Botrytis but by then it's already infected other plants although it may take just a little bit of time. I'm in MA in Z6 but some maps put me in 6B. I have inoculated my property with basilicus (milky spore) as well as benificial nematodes and can't detect a benifit. Youve given me a lot to digest bud but i will. I wish the work of plant breeders could eliminate the rot. I rarely have trouble with pests with the exception of a small amount of leaf miner damage. Ive never had powdery mildew become an issue either. I also give my plants as much access to good ventilation as possible by pruning for airflow and allowing them to spread their wings without running into each other. It's Botrytis that is my nemesis. Last year we had a very wet spring which encouraged the rot and then September and October were wet which set the stage for the rot to spread faster than the local growers could bag the affected. It would be much easier to plant stains resistant to the rot but i havent be able to find anything that fits the bill. Maybe the solution is contained in your post but where would I find these beneficial bacteria and how do you propagate them.
@Organikz If your going to give advise some of which is solid you to have to 've willing to expand your horizons. It's very difficult to use to much Magnesium Sulphate in the form of Epsom Salt. Read up on it. It's organic and beneficial and no different than adding Fulvic acid and aloe Vera juice. Opinions should be supported by knowledge and all of us should be open to things they are unfamiliar with. I'll germinate in coconut water next time if you read up on Epsom. Rock on and keep growing.
so speaks a man that really never grew anything commerciallyno offense but @Ecompost as much as i respect him is teaching you all about some disease that you dont even need to educate yourself...how do you keep mold off of your plants...it's a combination of soil moisture, RH, and osmotic pressure within your plants (increased respiration)...that simple. if you keep maximum respiration where moisture is being pushed from inside the plant to outside the plant how does mold settle in?
VPD!!! moisture naturally moves to less moisture to make up for vapor pressure deficit.
So the RH in the environment is like 80% and your soil is only like 40%...VDP will push against your plants and hold moisture within them or even want to push moisture back into the buds...this is how mold forms...tada
agreedWell then move on organik. I don't really care what the great Oz does but I've read enough on benifits of Epsom salts from dozens of sources so I'm comfortable with it. It's a lot easier concept to grasp than Aloe Vera and fulvic acid. Talk bout over complicating weed growing. Im good and ill continue to grow with few problems. Comparing milk of magnesia to magnesium sulphate is a stretch and it shows me that your opinions are not flexible and that your not willing to look into things you apparently know nothing of. Best of luck to you my brudda.
whats funny is that you, me and everyone is learning from this just as planter might be too, so while everyone is giving advice, try not to be all I am super knowledgeable, it really doesnt suit any one here and makes it more difficult to accept the data since its so loaded in the 1st case and off putting because of it.@Planter01
I am assuming you know more than the late clackamas coot because he has specifically told people not to use sul-po-mag in soil for this very reason. Milk of magnesia binds up the enzymes and acids im your stomach. Its literally slowing microbial activity. My adding all of that magnesium you are preventing the chelation of calcium all right
Anyway it's more than likely contributing to your bud rot...
"When too much magnesium contributes to a deficiency in calcium, the result is limited fruit production and poor storage root production. The North Dakota Department of Agriculture states a deficiency in calcium causes blossom end rot in tomato plants and affects the growth of leaves on beat plants negatively. A potassium deficiency affects the leaves of the plants, generally attacking the lower leaves first. You can detect a deficiency by yellowing or striping in the leaves. Gradually, the lack of potassium affects the entire leaf system, disturbing plant production by limiting the movement of water and other nutrients through the plant."
You can kill whatever that shit is with saponin tea made with 1/4 tsp powdered ritha to a quart of water.
This will be the last advice if it's not taken. I got shit to do...
So what does this have to do with growing commercially or the pictures of pathogens you're posting man? None apply here. He has a droopy as plant in a solo cup. What's the answer in all that shit? You want people to measure co2 bursts? Get real. Hes using a solo cup for a pot. I doubt he has the equipment. He wont listen to mine and he damn sure doesnt understand that if he doesnt know magnesium compacts soil. You could sell him product then right? You cant talk circles around me bro. You twist the truth to sell your product...yep...anything else? I could debunk the whole line...test it...youre no better than the kid at the hydro shop...so speaks a man that really never grew anything commercially
they are recovering @-) nothing else to say :-)View attachment 772851 View attachment 772853 View attachment 772854 @Ecompost The complexity of life and it's necessary components in a handful of dirt from a garden is difficult to accurately conceptualize. I can tend the dirt at the most basic level with NPK , micronutrients and water how do you encourage the good molds, mycelium but keep the bad stuff out. I don't think the question is whether our friend organic has grown commercially. The question should be has he grown outdoors and has he had to face Botrytis or powdery mildew. I don't know anyone who has successfully fought off botrot once it arrives. I don't care what your spacing is or how open you prune your plants or if you have the best air flow possible but your toast once it gets here. @Organikz dude get a grip of yourself with the personal attack. If you offered advise that I thought merited following I would. So I use solo cups. I had a very rough start that has nothing to do with solo cups or fulvic acid I was just putting it out there. What equipment do you have that I don't? I'm running 900 watts of 50 watt 3590's @ 3500k being pushed by the meanwell. drivers. I have another 300 watts of Cobs to attach to heat sinks and build a frame for. I was hoping to take cuts out of my main space and grow then out under 4500 lumens. I forget what my par value came in at last time but it was good right out to the periphery. What's your set up organik that lets you scoff at solo cups and preach what you think is the gospel. Let me see your plants again so I'll know how its done. I think you know a lot but have decided to stop learning. The 12 root bound, overwatered and nutrient poisoned plants just might make it. If you had given me any advise I could have actually used in this grow i would have. Well i really do hope you have a great grow and wish you nothing but the best but relax bud. You don't demand respect, you earn it.
it means you cant offer advice to a man unless you have walked in his shoes, which you clearly havent! The thread owner was bright enough to understand the sentiment.So what does this have to do with growing commercially or the pictures of pathogens you're posting man? None apply here. He has a droopy as plant in a solo cup. What's the answer in all that shit? You want people to measure co2 bursts? Get real. Hes using a solo cup for a pot. I doubt he has the equipment. He wont listen to mine and he damn sure doesnt understand that if he doesnt know magnesium compacts soil. You could sell him product then right? You cant talk circles around me bro. You twist the truth to sell your product...yep...anything else? I could debunk the whole line...test it...youre no better than the kid at the hydro shop...
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