Planter01 said:

View attachment 772851 View attachment 772853 View attachment 772854 @Ecompost The complexity of life and it's necessary components in a handful of dirt from a garden is difficult to accurately conceptualize. I can tend the dirt at the most basic level with NPK , micronutrients and water how do you encourage the good molds, mycelium but keep the bad stuff out. I don't think the question is whether our friend organic has grown commercially. The question should be has he grown outdoors and has he had to face Botrytis or powdery mildew. I don't know anyone who has successfully fought off botrot once it arrives. I don't care what your spacing is or how open you prune your plants or if you have the best air flow possible but your toast once it gets here. @Organikz dude get a grip of yourself with the personal attack. If you offered advise that I thought merited following I would. So I use solo cups. I had a very rough start that has nothing to do with solo cups or fulvic acid I was just putting it out there. What equipment do you have that I don't? I'm running 900 watts of 50 watt 3590's @ 3500k being pushed by the meanwell. drivers. I have another 300 watts of Cobs to attach to heat sinks and build a frame for. I was hoping to take cuts out of my main space and grow then out under 4500 lumens. I forget what my par value came in at last time but it was good right out to the periphery. What's your set up organik that lets you scoff at solo cups and preach what you think is the gospel. Let me see your plants again so I'll know how its done. I think you know a lot but have decided to stop learning. The 12 root bound, overwatered and nutrient poisoned plants just might make it. If you had given me any advise I could have actually used in this grow i would have. Well i really do hope you have a great grow and wish you nothing but the best but relax bud. You don't demand respect, you earn it.

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In terms of how to encourage the right microbes, firstly, despite what the whippersnapper is failing to acknowledge via his last outburst, CO2 is the only measure of how healthy living soil is, unless you have a microscope and extensive training or the ability to gene sequence.
You can count all the ppms of this that and the other, add xyz amendments, but if they aint being mobilized, then it dont matter. CO2 leaking from the soil, tells us aerobic bacteria and fungus are present and working. It is this army of microfauna that feeds plants and maintains soils system health.
Why this is such a problem for people to understand I dont get. Especially super humans like we have here, growing with organic amendments. Low CO2 levels means little to no mineralization, it can also mean little to no Oxygen. So low levels can indicate conditions favorable to pathogens like Botrytis before you plant, during growth, after harvest or whenever. The test is surely simple enough for even pot growers to understand? Aerobic organisms like say humans, and or beneficial plant based microbes, not pathogens, and animals, insects and so on in general, breathe in Oxygen, and out CO2, so knowing how much CO2 is easier than trying to measure O2 flux based on a background of 210,000ppms.
I am staggered in a community that leaps on growing innovation, to find such resistance to what is a simple low cost test which proves if you have efficient soil or not without going to the effort of counting PPMS NPK in some make believe lab situation at higher cost. I can only assume these heroes of biology are petrified their soil doesnt live up to the hype they give it?

Next, depending on the material, depending on the community of microbes. You get different microbes for compost, than you would get by adding chitin based material, or you would attract different microbes based on certain living plants, eg marigolds, clover and so on. Learning which microbes suppress BC condias and what conditions these favor will be part of the solution i feel.
ttps://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25028422
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3835784/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5209367/

and finally
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12222952

Jumping Jesus!! I should have just cut my loses and moved on. After a very rough start I thought that the girls would have settled in and regrouped but I guess not. Most of them have all the signs of to much nitrogen with wrinkled new growth and a deeper green than the pics show. Some of them look healthy but I have never seen so many nodes on such small plants. They've never been pinched and other than a tsp of Epsom in four gallons of seaweed tea all they've had for nutes was something given to me called "Tappen Roots". The label says 6 to 8 tsps per gallon of water and I'm only at a couple tsps per gallon and not at every watering. It's NPK is .01/.0/.01 and I thought it was just micros. The medium is 75% nute less Pro Mix with a Bag O Dirt from the grow shop thrown in to stretch the Pro Mix. I've got new beans coming and I'm gonna pretend this grow never happened. I would say live and learn but I haven't learned crap with this debacle.

Planter01 said:

Jumping Jesus!! I should have just cut my loses and moved on. After a very rough start I thought that the girls would have settled in and regrouped but I guess not. Most of them have all the signs of to much nitrogen with wrinkled new growth and a deeper green than the pics show. Some of them look healthy but I have never seen so many nodes on such small plants. They've never been pinched and other than a tsp of Epsom in four gallons of seaweed tea all they've had for nutes was something given to me called "Tappen Roots". The label says 6 to 8 tsps per gallon of water and I'm only at a couple tsps per gallon and not at every watering. It's NPK is .01/.0/.01 and I thought it was just micros. The medium is 75% nute less Pro Mix with a Bag O Dirt from the grow shop thrown in to stretch the Pro Mix. I've got new beans coming and I'm gonna pretend this grow never happened. I would say live and learn but I haven't learned crap with this debacle.
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well what wont you do, use, next time?

@Ecompost These girls were hurting before they even hit the dirt. There were multiple varieties from different breeders and vendors. The only thing different was that I had given away the seedling mats I had used for years and replaced them with new ones. Even though i used strapping to get the trays 3/4 of an inch off the mats it was still too hot. I use the mats because the floors are a cold concrete. Cooked from the start the 12 out of 60 struggled along. Right now 6 of the 12 are still doomed but I'll just watch them until they're stealing light. They do have a lot of branching and they all seem to have very tight nodes. Its like it's a function of heat. WTH I'll just see how it plays out but I'm thinking don't cook your beans.

Planter01 said:

@Ecompost These girls were hurting before they even hit the dirt. There were multiple varieties from different breeders and vendors. The only thing different was that I had given away the seedling mats I had used for years and replaced them with new ones. Even though i used strapping to get the trays 3/4 of an inch off the mats it was still too hot. I use the mats because the floors are a cold concrete. Cooked from the start the 12 out of 60 struggled along. Right now 6 of the 12 are still doomed but I'll just watch them until they're stealing light. They do have a lot of branching and they all seem to have very tight nodes. Its like it's a function of heat. WTH I'll just see how it plays out but I'm thinking don't cook your beans.View attachment 774724 View attachment 774725 View attachment 774726

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no excessive heat is a real problem :-)