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stickynick
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welcome to the farm stickynick!
'sounds like a plan.
i'm sure others will chime in.
'just a couple of things to think about . . .
you might consider shooting for higher temps during the day for more effective CO2 use. 1,800 ppm is a waste. i've seen numbers that anything over 1,200 or 1,500 ppm is a waste.
using two smaller chillers instead of a larger chiller is odd . . . unless you already have them and want to put them to use.
i haven't run Canna . . . but i'd skip the booster. 'seems like a lot of folks, including me, have run into problems with various boosters . . . and the upside when it works well is negligible.
depending on your native temperatures, you may be in need of more a/c. i prefer at least 6k btu per 1,000w.
i hope that you're drywalling or plastering over that plywood before the paint. in a moist room you risk mold growing on that plywood. best to seal it up and paint a smooth surface.
one thing i notice that you haven't covered is room exhaust. it's very helpful to exhaust your room at the transition from day to night, get all the CO2 out and fresh air in.
. . . and, the biggest battle that you'll have is keeping the humidity up. those a/c's are damn good dehumidifiers, and especially during veg and early flower, you're going to want to counteract that with massive humidification.
I agree with everything said.
1800 ppm is insanity. Absolute waste of co2 even if its sitting in a sealed room and not leaking anywhere.
I have mine set to turn on at 900ppm and off @ 1100 ppm. I never see above 1200 unless I'm in the room for awhile.
The two chillers thing also boggles my mind. I can perefectly read that you want some "backup" type thing with a chiller but honestly its a silly idea that makes no sense.
Out of the thousands of growers, have you ever seen anyone run a double chikler? Didn't think so. Now do you think that's because we are all dumb and you know something we don't or simply because its completely unnecessary
Might as well touch on the other pionts you listed.
Nutrients ive never used canna. But if using canna nutrients I WOULD NOT follow CCH20 ec chart . if I were you, I'd google canna stats calculator and get to the Angel fire page that has it. Plug in the values and weight of canna a+b into the calculator and work the ml/gal until you get the ideal n-p-k-mg of 100-100-200-60 but the leaner the better so I aim a little less.
After that, mix it into a gal of your water and read ppm. that's your full ppm. Start veg at 25% and work your way up to 100% as the plants call for it.
66-68 is fine, dont need to aim for 65 all the time.
Mini split can take a sealed room with 100% humidity to 20% in about 5 minutes. You will 10000000052526827251% need a humidifier with lights on.
You will 100% need a dehumid with lights off. Mini splits don't run very long and the plants sweat like crazy. You'll have a pool in that room within 5 minutes of lights off
Also I'd go up to 82 degress with co2 instead of 78. 72+ at night since you don't want more than a 10 degree drop
I think there's more but I have to get back to trimming
Might as well touch on the other pionts you listed.
Nutrients ive never used canna. But if using canna nutrients I WOULD NOT follow CCH20 ec chart . if I were you, I'd google canna stats calculator and get to the Angel fire page that has it. Plug in the values and weight of canna a+b into the calculator and work the ml/gal until you get the ideal n-p-k-mg of 100-100-200-60 but the leaner the better so I aim a little less. Happy trimming.
After that, mix it into a gal of your water and read ppm. that's your full ppm. Start veg at 25% and work your way up to 100% as the plants call for it.
66-68 is fine, dont need to aim for 65 all the time.
Mini split can take a sealed room with 100% humidity to 20% in about 5 minutes. You will 10000000052526827251% need a humidifier with lights on.
You will 100% need a dehumid with lights off. Mini splits don't run very long and the plants sweat like crazy. You'll have a pool in that room within 5 minutes of lights off
Also I'd go up to 82 degress with co2 instead of 78. 72+ at night since you don't want more than a 10 degree drop
I think there's more but I have to get back to trimming
by the sounds of it you're in europe, which has different building materials than what is available in cali. with what we have available here, i frame in lumber, sheath in plywood, cover that with 5/8" drywall, mud, caulk, prime, and paint several coats with flat latex. it provides a sealed environment that will do alright with high humidity and is easy to clean. the plywood allows me to put a screw in anywhere and get structural support. a room built like this will last many years without a problem. you'll need to figure out how to achieve something similar with whatever materials and skills you have available. if you're building a room that is expected to be used for less or more time, you may make different design decisions.
re: exhaust . . . you will want to exhaust. both smell and insects can be addressed with filters, carbon filter for smell and a shroom filter for insects. for your size room i'd recommend a 12" duct exhaust and a 12" duct intake. a damper on each duct and everything on a timer to open her up and exhaust for 20-30 minutes at lights off. your plants will thank you for it.
generally, you can grow weed in low humidity and high heat, etc., but FooDoo and I have made recommendations to improve the room you've already planned. number of lights and how many splits is the easy part. figuring out how you're going to maintain the best VPD is what steps up the game.
"I can't find a single unit off the shelf with enough capacity to do the job." option #1: get two. option #2: build a smaller room.
if you have concrete floors with drainage you might opt for centrifugal humidifiers. during veg you may want 70-80% humidity. you'll need several humidifiers because those a/c units are going to be trying to suck out every bit of moisture you put in. at the end of flower you may want your humidity at 30%, you'll remove the humidifiers and let you a/c keep it down.
and to answer your question, 1,800 ppm of CO2 will not harm your plants and will not harm you. it's just money down the drain. and FooDoo is right about wrestling those 70#ers.
also, beware of the CC nutrient chart you're looking at. if you've been reading everything at the farm you've seen that everyone is going much lighter on the nutes than any chart that i've seen recommends.
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