Seamaiden
Living dead girl
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Yep, the fungus gnat paper was confused with another one about RAs that was talking about RAs of conifers. I saved the FG paper, didn't save the RA paper, got them confused and switched around and a whole mess.Seamaiden:
I think this might have been the study you where thinking of.
This thread is meant to help folks be prepared for what can only be called A Grower's Biggest Headaches. So, what I would like is for those 'in the know' on any issue that you think is pertinent, that YOU maybe wish someone had given you the heads-up about, to put that here. A Medicine Chest/War Cabinet, if you will, these are things that you should have on-hand to wage battle at a moment's notice, or at the very least stave off damage until you can wage a proper war.
I'm going to begin with some stuff that's off the toppa my head. Good-to-haves & must-haves.
Ok, that's what I'm coming up with while having an almost-three-year-old trying to get my attention. Please add to this list as you see fit! (The bullet option is up top, makes listing fun.)
This thread is meant to help folks be prepared for what can only be called A Grower's Biggest Headaches. So, what I would like is for those 'in the know' on any issue that you think is pertinent, that YOU maybe wish someone had given you the heads-up about, to put that here. A Medicine Chest/War Cabinet, if you will, these are things that you should have on-hand to wage battle at a moment's notice, or at the very least stave off damage until you can wage a proper war.
I'm going to begin with some stuff that's off the toppa my head. Good-to-haves & must-haves.
Ok, that's what I'm coming up with while having an almost-three-year-old trying to get my attention. Please add to this list as you see fit! (The bullet option is up top, makes listing fun.)
Safer's Caterpillar Spray is, I believe, most commonly found, but I had to purchase another product. As long as it contains Bacillus thuringiensis (usually subspecies... karsaki? I can't remember) then that's one of the good products. Another good subspecies, what's found in Mosquito Dunks, is Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis.
Epsom provides magnesium and sulfur, needs to be used sparingly in my opinion (the box directions are outrageous to me) as either a foliar or root feed. Root feeding can usually safely go as high as 1tsp per gallon, but I really prefer to go low and slow, as one Ohsogreen has always reminded me, and typically start at 1/4tsp per gallon.
Seaweed extract is like a complete nutrition pie. Any time is a good time for pie, and any time is a good time for seaweed extracts. Meals, too, though you either need to make a tea with them or top-dress. Seaweed can offer many micronutrients that may not be found in other products you're using.
It *is* possible to go too strong with certain seaweed or kelp products, so watch the plants. Applied as foliar sprays it can help with disease resistance, though it needs to be applied on a very regular basis (weekly or possibly more often). When using as a foliar, I typically begin at quarter strength of the recommended dosage on the bottle, even if it has foliar strength directions IF those directions say to use it at the same strength as root feed.
In other words, it always pays to go easy and observe the plants before you make changes. I think that's the most difficult thing, learning to read the plants. Just like with every other organism, if you think about it.
I was surprised no one mentioned Neem oil, until the last & most recent post.
It's great as a natural pesticide that can be used foliar or in the roots. Works to stunt growth of anything that eats it. Since I began to use it as a preventative measure, I've hardly encountered a thing during the whole process.
I find a product called "Organocide" also works very well for me with the added bonus of being able to spray even ripe flowers.
It seems to me however, that the most important thing regarding long-term insect eradication, rather than simply maintaining control, is doing the research necessary to figure out the biological modus operandi and reproductive cycles so you can apply your pesticides according to those cycles.
:harvest:In the case of spider mites it works for me to kill the living bugs with a healthy application of sprayed or fogged organocide, followed by a foliar application and soil drench using neem oil. Three days later, all the eggs should be hatching- and the neem should be there for them to eat, keeping them from developing into adults and reproducing- at which point another application of organocide is applied. it takes 3 to 7 days for them to develop into adults, so even if preventative measures are also taken (neem oil), I'll still hit them again with both neem oil and organocide. The Reproductive cycle, if I remember correctly, is like 11 days from hatched to ready to reproduce- so understanding their vulnerabilities associated with each growth stage was instrumental for me in effectively combatting these little fuckers.
If that doesn't work, or they are particularly aggressive, azamax/azatrol applied at the same intervals (during veg only in my garden) will usually do the trick.
Makes me realize most of the problems are imported into the garden..
Gorilla tape has worked for me to plug holes in tray. No leaks yet. I guess we should add some good duct tape to the list.
organicide is fish oil based and i wouldnt spray on ripe flowers... but when you open the bottle, you would know that!
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