Beefcurtins
- 76
- 18
I don’t know if it will actually do anything it’s just a function on one of my uv light bars so figured it wouldn’t hurt using. Here’s the actually wavelength chart it doesn’t look like it goes to far past 750 so it’s mostly just extra far red. What I read says to use it 15 mins before lights on and after lights out to kind of lull it asleep and awake or something lol. Just as nightlight explained here. But they were fine no worries they looked just as fresh as they usually do in the morning.didn’t say it was, it was you who said ir light is useless to photo plants..
This is awesome thanks I couldn’t find much info about it with google searches main thing I can find is that Mara hydro article about uv and ir.For the sake of clarity, you should always name the specific wavelengths because plants do not have human eyes and do not perceive these wavelengths just as we do as abstract "red" "green" but they use several photoreceptors that can absorb a much broader spectrum although one -phytochrome- does have a breaking point at around 700nm, where red becomes farred and the light is no more PAR.
Plants can sense, and use, farred up to 780nm, very intricate lab tests have shown even a bit further down into IR, but real IR - talking heat radiation - that is wavelengths starting from 1000nm to way beyond 5000nm, this is what is usually been used in IR radiators etc.. these wavelengths do only heat up the leaves and are not sensed by phytochrome.
As for using FR "IR" at the end of the day, it's a "sleep" initiation, or better, it helps speed up the conversion of Pr to Pfr, which usually happens in the dark from alone but needs close to one hour. So to use a FR-EOD can help the accumulation of the hormones that trigger the flowering response, in other words, it's like the night had extra hour added, so instead doing 12/12 you can do 13h of light, followed by 15mins 730nm FR and just 11h of night. In order to pump more light in the plant, or you let it at 12h and just help it in case it mucks around, some genetics may indeed need more than 12h of night for the finish.
Now outside in nature the evening dawn there the spectrum is totally dominated by farred so this puts plants already "to sleep" this is why outside light pollution or fullmoon light etc may not matter. In the end it's a matter of the ratio of PAR red : farred which is measured and weighted against and this creates a hormone state which will further dicate how the plant is going to react to the ambient light scenario. So it's possible if the plant in sleep is illuminated with adequately strong light all the Pfr will transform and "awaken" the plant, then reveg or delay of the flowering transition can indeed occur.
One last word, as the article above stated you can neutralize a night interruption with ending in FR - that only works for a few times, like 2-3 consecutive days, after that, the plant will behave as being PAR illuminated. It's because PAR light is sensed by other receptors as well. But that trick does e.g. work if an accidental night interruption happened during flower, then do FR-EOD and it will be much less chance of reveg. Also when having to work in the growspace at night using a green mono, the FR-EOD is helpful. But don't use FR excessively several times throughout the flowering night - it also can delay flowering then, Bugbee did a thorough test on this one with Cannabis as well.
Cheers
oops didn’t mean to reply to this comment on my first one was trying to reply to zill loldidn’t say it was, it was you who said ir light is useless to photo plants..
My first reply was directed at you not nick lolYup just did. IR is not red light.
24 hours really? Its about 7 days since I switched to flower actually but with how they reacted to those two hours after lights off I can’t see them accepting it being on all night and then all during lights on.It will not harm them for such a little time, plus they are in veg so anything up to 24h works
Sorry for all the comments lmao but can you explain how I should be using the ir spectrum Ontop of the uv? I’m using 15 mins ir before lights on then uv turns on as main lights turn on for half hour. Then the end of the day I do ten on ten off ten off of ir before lights out while having uv on that whole half hour of on and off ir. Then uv turns off after half hour with the main lights. Then I leave the ir on for 10 mins after lights out. This is what I’ve come to read is the best to do but do you have any suggestions? You seem pretty damn knowledgeable hahahah. Also I’m using the spider farmer uv ir bars you can see above not like a uv ir light switch button on the light. Not sure if that makes a difference. Since you said 24 hours I could see if it was the switch but this extra supplemental lighting must be a lot stronger than if built into the lightFor the sake of clarity, you should always name the specific wavelengths because plants do not have human eyes and do not perceive these wavelengths just as we do as abstract "red" "green" but they use several photoreceptors that can absorb a much broader spectrum although one -phytochrome- does have a breaking point at around 700nm, where red becomes farred and the light is no more PAR.
Plants can sense, and use, farred up to 780nm, very intricate lab tests have shown even a bit further down into IR, but real IR - talking heat radiation - that is wavelengths starting from 1000nm to way beyond 5000nm, this is what is usually been used in IR radiators etc.. these wavelengths do only heat up the leaves and are not sensed by phytochrome.
As for using FR "IR" at the end of the day, it's a "sleep" initiation, or better, it helps speed up the conversion of Pr to Pfr, which usually happens in the dark from alone but needs close to one hour. So to use a FR-EOD can help the accumulation of the hormones that trigger the flowering response, in other words, it's like the night had extra hour added, so instead doing 12/12 you can do 13h of light, followed by 15mins 730nm FR and just 11h of night. In order to pump more light in the plant, or you let it at 12h and just help it in case it mucks around, some genetics may indeed need more than 12h of night for the finish.
Now outside in nature the evening dawn there the spectrum is totally dominated by farred so this puts plants already "to sleep" this is why outside light pollution or fullmoon light etc may not matter. In the end it's a matter of the ratio of PAR red : farred which is measured and weighted against and this creates a hormone state which will further dicate how the plant is going to react to the ambient light scenario. So it's possible if the plant in sleep is illuminated with adequately strong light all the Pfr will transform and "awaken" the plant, then reveg or delay of the flowering transition can indeed occur.
One last word, as the article above stated you can neutralize a night interruption with ending in FR - that only works for a few times, like 2-3 consecutive days, after that, the plant will behave as being PAR illuminated. It's because PAR light is sensed by other receptors as well. But that trick does e.g. work if an accidental night interruption happened during flower, then do FR-EOD and it will be much less chance of reveg. Also when having to work in the growspace at night using a green mono, the FR-EOD is helpful. But don't use FR excessively several times throughout the flowering night - it also can delay flowering then, Bugbee did a thorough test on this one with Cannabis as well.
Cheers
There’s actually four extra light bars total. Two big ones just uv 30 watts and two smaller ones 40 watts thst half the ir with uv. Not sure if that would matter in making your suggestions lol. This is with the spider farmer g8600 at 60% soon to be 80% at week 3 of flowerIt will not harm them for such a little time, plus they are in veg so anything up to 24h works
Ok if you can trigger the 730 and 385nm separately then you got all option open to do it right.Sorry for all the comments lmao but can you explain how I should be using the ir spectrum Ontop of the uv? I’m using 15 mins ir before lights on then uv turns on as main lights turn on for half hour. Then the end of the day I do ten on ten off ten off of ir before lights out while having uv on that whole half hour of on and off ir. Then uv turns off after half hour with the main lights. Then I leave the ir on for 10 mins after lights out. This is what I’ve come to read is the best to do but do you have any suggestions? You seem pretty damn knowledgeable hahahah. Also I’m using the spider farmer uv ir bars you can see above not like a uv ir light switch button on the light. Not sure if that makes a difference. Since you said 24 hours I could see if it was the switch but this extra supplemental lighting must be a lot stronger than if built into the light
glasses? you shouldn’t even be in there when those lights are on, skin cancer, etc.. research..I've been trying to figure out this "FR EoD" "put them to bed" marketing by the Finnchy company. Apparently it involves me flipping switches on the light. smh. not very easy to do manually everyday.
I'm still trying to learn to measure UV-A and UV-B. but at this point, it's some trial n error and I'm not afraid to burn out some plants. My eyes are a different story, and the UV Glasses are next to the door, and I have to wear them or be blind. No excuses. Every Time. and damn can it hurt the vision.
Right now my Jr Mint x MAC1 is smelling very chocolate and aging beautiful. When I get my temperatures down in the next week or two I'll get the purple colors out of the fan leaves. 2nd run of this strain, with a bunch of clones. Some re-vegged, some not.
I guess I need some IR light bulbs for the Lights-Out time. If I want to go that far.
glasses? you shouldn’t even be in there when those lights are on, skin cancer, etc.. research..
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?