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Advise please...1st time grower

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Advise please...1st time grower

Droppinplates84 88 Replies 8,438 Views
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Everything looks fine. Leaves are looking a little droopy. Normally caused from watering issue or they know its bedtime. How do you water? More important how often?

I would say 11 weeks is closer to advertised avg timeframe 75-80 days. Forget the timeframe. Youre probably 4 weeks maybe 3 before worrying about harvest. Lots of time for big buds. Sounds like youre doing things right so just keep doing it. Small change would be that the temp and rh could be higher if you have control. At that stage Im looking at 78f and 60-65 rh%. 1.1-1.2 vpd. I keep my day and night close until later in flower also.
Grow times are sales propaganda. So what, my 10-12wks go 14 weeks every time. I could do better. I'm doing allright. One flag came up in the reading - the nighttime temp. they wil go dormant if it goes too low. Can you timer a fan and shut it off, or temperature control it? I rigged in a high voltage heating thermostat. Two years ago, I had 10-12 wk type go dormant, just like in a live coma. Got rid of one at 4 months. That scared the other one, it harvested at 7 months.
 
Im in Columbus area. My plan is to start my seeds (Photo Periods) indoors with light at 15/9 so that when I put them outdoors June 1st, The lights on hours will be the same. Obviously ill be synching up the lights on/off same time as nature. Ive been getting told outdoor growing is fun as well. Of course ill be growing in my tent indoors as well(Auto Flowers) LOL. Happy growing!!

It also helps to take your seedlings outside occasionally when weather is nice, to harden them off, and get them acclimated to the sun's intensity. Adjust your time doing this. Start with an hour or two and increase as it grows and comes closer to transplanting
 
Should've asked. Are u going to use pots, raised beds, or straight into the ground.

If your going in ground, you can grow monsters.🤫
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Grow times are sales propaganda. So what, my 10-12wks go 14 weeks every time. I could do better. I'm doing allright. One flag came up in the reading - the nighttime temp. they wil go dormant if it goes too low. Can you timer a fan and shut it off, or temperature control it? I rigged in a high voltage heating thermostat. Two years ago, I had 10-12 wk type go dormant, just like in a live coma. Got rid of one at 4 months. That scared the other one, it harvested at 7 months.
Im confused. Im not the OP and I said everything you did in the post you replied to.
 
Good Morning everyone. Before jumping the gun and making a silly move that most new growers do, I wanted to chime in and get a bit more advise. I woke this morning and go and check on my girls like I always do. I noticed one of them was turning a strange light green color. In one pic you can clearly see difference in color than next to the other one. I water them all out of same bucket (aerated and Ph to 6.5 last watering, no nutes). Do you guys think this is because the Ph is 6.5 or is it needing more nitrogen? Next watering in a couple days I plan to feed them some nutes in wormcasting tea(not taking PPMs past 600). I give them about 1 gallon each, plenty or runoff. Thanks in advance, again, all advise welcome. (obviously the one in question is on the right)View attachment 2603050View attachment 2603051
Hard for me to say but I do see the lighter green. That one leaf would make me think ph issue but youve been on top of ph. Dont remember but if in soil then 6.5ph is a good spot.
 
Hard for me to say but I do see the lighter green. That one leaf would make me think ph issue but youve been on top of ph. Dont remember but if in soil then 6.5ph is a good spot.
Thanks, ill certainly double check ph at next watering....so I decided to look the symptoms up and make sure pics matched pretty close to what Im experiencing, and I think it may be calcium deficiency (based on color and couple dark spots here and there). So what I tried is I made a foliar spray ph to 6.0 and added very little cal-mag. Sprayed it directly on the plant in question, and if I am right, it should show some signs of improvement within 48 hours(hopefully). Even if its a slight improvement, it should confirm the issue. Then I will fully treat with cal-mag next watering and maybe even add a little lime to that pot. Hopefully this is an easy fix....lol
 
Good Morning everyone. Before jumping the gun and making a silly move that most new growers do, I wanted to chime in and get a bit more advise. I woke this morning and go and check on my girls like I always do. I noticed one of them was turning a strange light green color. In one pic you can clearly see difference in color than next to the other one. I water them all out of same bucket (aerated and Ph to 6.5 last watering, no nutes). Do you guys think this is because the Ph is 6.5 or is it needing more nitrogen? Next watering in a couple days I plan to feed them some nutes in wormcasting tea(not taking PPMs past 600). I give them about 1 gallon each, plenty or runoff. Thanks in advance, again, all advise welcome. (obviously the one in question is on the right)View attachment 2603050View attachment 2603051
The plant on the right doesn't look like it's experiencing Ca issues. The dark stems and light color point to a P issue. Next step is figuring out if it's a deficiency or a lock out. For P we first look at root zone temp/pH/moisture

A 65° night time temp with fans blowing on wet fabric pots (hopefully not sitting directly in the floor) will lower the temp in the root zone by at least 10°. A 55° root zone will lock out P.

I apologize for not reading the thread in detail but are you checking run off numbers? I saw you are using FF trio but I didn't catch what medium you're in.
 
The plant on the right doesn't look like it's experiencing Ca issues. The dark stems and light color point to a P issue. Next step is figuring out if it's a deficiency or a lock out. For P we first look at root zone temp/pH/moisture

A 65° night time temp with fans blowing on wet fabric pots (hopefully not sitting directly in the floor) will lower the temp in the root zone by at least 10°. A 55° root zone will lock out P.

I apologize for not reading the thread in detail but are you checking run off numbers? I saw you are using FF trio but I didn't catch what medium you're in.
No need to apologise. Well about a week and a half ago I was forced to flush down to 300 PPM due to a very high runoff (1300 PPM). They bounced back pretty well and I gave them a wormcasting tea with a bloom booster not going past 600-650 PPM....this last watering was just a ph of 6.5 with no nutes.....Im thinking that this one is just hungry, but the couple brown spots on the leaves leads me a little to think calcium deficiency. Oh and all feedings are based using spring water from Kroger, LOL.

I use a heater in the tent keeping day temps 75-78 at 60-64% humidity...night time I dont go past 70 degrees and RH roughly same as daytime as I am keeping it locked in at 1.2 VDP.

The funny thing is this is a 4x2 tent, all fed from same water (I mix all feedings in 5 gallon bucket), and this is the only one that has this issue.

Any thoughts?? LOL
 
So I was looking at the light schedule for Ohio and the 1st of June would be a few mins shy of 15 hours of light per day. Do you think I should just start in my tent with 15 hours of light all the way til I transplant them outdoors? that way there will be no light changes from seed until natural light takes over outdoors

15 hours is totally fine but you might want to crank up the light intensity a little or bring it closer to the plants for a higher DLI that more closely resembles an 18 hour schedule if the plants can handle it. This way you're giving them comparable energy with less hours under the light and not depriving them of potential photosynthesis growth. Not to mention cranking up the intensity a little will help prepare them for the 1500-2000 ppfd they'll get in the sun. And something else I just thought of, if you're transitioning them outside in hot weather, a shade cloth can offer a huge assist. Until they're adjusted they tend to be able to handle heat coming their way or intense light, but not both hitting them at the same time. That's what makes em collapse.
 
15 hours is totally fine but you might want to crank up the light intensity a little or bring it closer to the plants for a higher DLI that more closely resembles an 18 hour schedule if the plants can handle it. This way you're giving them comparable energy with less hours under the light and not depriving them of potential photosynthesis growth. Not to mention cranking up the intensity a little will help prepare them for the 1500-2000 ppfd they'll get in the sun. And something else I just thought of, if you're transitioning them outside in hot weather, a shade cloth can offer a huge assist. Until they're adjusted they tend to be able to handle heat coming their way or intense light, but not both hitting them at the same time. That's what makes em collapse.
Oh damn I didnt think of that, thanks
 
The funny thing is this is a 4x2 tent, all fed from same water (I mix all feedings in 5 gallon bucket), and this is the only one that has this issue.
From what Ive read here and your greenhouse pics its clear to me that you have a greenthumb. Youre doing a good job monitoring your babies and youre catching this change pretty early. I probably wouldve given her a couple more days before making changes and seeing what she did. The foliar spray isnt a drastic change though and a good play to eliminate a possibility.
 
Thought I would post better, closer pictures. Not sure what to make of this. Only one of my 3 plants look like this. Its the middle plant in case that matters lol
IMG 8973
IMG 8974
IMG 8972
 
From what Ive read here and your greenhouse pics its clear to me that you have a greenthumb. Youre doing a good job monitoring your babies and youre catching this change pretty early. I probably wouldve given her a couple more days before making changes and seeing what she did. The foliar spray isnt a drastic change though and a good play to eliminate a possibility.
Thanks, I appreciate the compliment and confidence in me, LOL
Im trying to be extra careful. I just posted closer, better pics of the issue. Next feeding im going a whole array of FoxFarm Trio including cal-mag to cover all bases, but making sure I keep my PPMS roughly 600-700 (flushing is pain in ass, LOL). If its a lack of something, that should get it.

Correct me if Im wrong, but if its an surplus of a nute would it turn darker, not lighter?
 
Does your tent have a fresh air inlet influencing one pot and not the other? The root temp advice from @Grownsince95 is solid.
I do have a 6 inch fan helping bring in fresh air from the vent on one side, but this issue is affecting the middle plant. Now that you brought that up, I have my heater hose in the middle of the tent closest to the plant in question. I wonder if that could be the culprit 🤔🤔
 
No need to apologise. Well about a week and a half ago I was forced to flush down to 300 PPM due to a very high runoff (1300 PPM). They bounced back pretty well and I gave them a wormcasting tea with a bloom booster not going past 600-650 PPM....this last watering was just a ph of 6.5 with no nutes.....Im thinking that this one is just hungry, but the couple brown spots on the leaves leads me a little to think calcium deficiency. Oh and all feedings are based using spring water from Kroger, LOL.

I use a heater in the tent keeping day temps 75-78 at 60-64% humidity...night time I dont go past 70 degrees and RH roughly same as daytime as I am keeping it locked in at 1.2 VDP.

The funny thing is this is a 4x2 tent, all fed from same water (I mix all feedings in 5 gallon bucket), and this is the only one that has this issue.

Any thoughts?? LOL
"Past 70 degrees" above or below? Your OP said night temps were 65°. Wet pots with a fan blowing on them will be 10° colder putting you in the danger zone for lockout.

You still haven't mentioned the growing medium. This is very important for diagnosis.

Thought I would post better, closer pictures. Not sure what to make of this. Only one of my 3 plants look like this. Its the middle plant in case that matters lolView attachment 2603285View attachment 2603286View attachment 2603284

Classic beginning of P and Mg issues on those leaves.

I think your root zone may be too cold at night.
 
"Past 70 degrees" above or below? Your OP said night temps were 65°. Wet pots with a fan blowing on them will be 10° colder putting you in the danger zone for lockout.

You still haven't mentioned the growing medium. This is very important for diagnosis.



Classic beginning of P and Mg issues on those leaves.

I think your root zone may be too cold at night.
My apologies...Im growing in soil. Foxfarm to be more specific, lol
 
I do have a 6 inch fan helping bring in fresh air from the vent on one side, but this issue is affecting the middle plant. Now that you brought that up, I have my heater hose in the middle of the tent closest to the plant in question. I wonder if that could be the culprit 🤔🤔
Too hot of a root zone can have the same negative affects.
 
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