Frankster
Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
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Excellent information mimed, thanks. That opens my eyes to that specific issue. So when you go up, what do you look for @being on the toxic side? Burnt tips? is that the first sign? Or is the inter-noding what your paying attention too, while dialing it in.Just a nutrient note;
brittle stems is from mild to advanced potassium deficiency. And it may be the tallest plant that has it.
I had better stem strength when adding silica but the brittleness was not present unless I had npk shortage.
and the added silica eventually raised my ph too high. I would go light (1-1.5ml protekt ) in the future.
also a bit more nitrogen can soften stems up.
Here's some of the early stages in doing some revision bending, the second time, during early flower.
Excellent information mimed, thanks. That opens my eyes to that specific issue. So when you go up, what do you look for @being on the toxic side? Burnt tips? is that the first sign? Or is the inter-noding what your paying attention too, while dialing it in.
I don’t overthink or pretend I can control uptake in potting soil. I use only ocean forest with 25% perlite through veg with my well water only and transplants to bigger pots with fresh soil. Cup, 1 gallon, 3 gallon. Then use only pure blend pro grow when the nutrients deplete in the final pot around week 2-3 in 12/12.
I try to give only what the plants need and go up in strength only about .2 ec at a time. Starting at 5 ml and almost never over 17.5 ml. I add the pbpg every watering once started. If I see leaf stress or brittle stems or whatever I give water only and measure the runoff to see what is needed. Then usually just pour a gallon of lighter strength nutes through. If I see a low ec or high ph I may raise the nute strength.
as long as it’s available the plant will take what it needs from the medium. We don’t actually feed the plant anything. We just restock the soil.
If you want to control things further that’s what hydro is for imo.
When I start to act like I am controlling things my plants tend to degrade. When I look at it like I said above and just supply only what they need and let them do their thing they seem to flourish.
I agree, like this one, she needs a little tlc, but she's got good bones. Look at all the new tops on her, and she's made it though the fire, now she just needs the proper care to fill-out all those budding sites I created.
I don’t overthink or pretend I can control uptake in potting soil. I use only ocean forest with 25% perlite through veg with my well water only and transplants to bigger pots with fresh soil. Cup, 1 gallon, 3 gallon. Then use only pure blend pro grow when the nutrients deplete in the final pot around week 2-3 in 12/12.
I try to give only what the plants need and go up in strength only about .2 ec at a time. Starting at 5 ml and almost never over 17.5 ml. I add the pbpg every watering once started. If I see leaf stress or brittle stems or whatever I give water only and measure the runoff to see what is needed. Then usually just pour a gallon of lighter strength nutes through. If I see a low ec or high ph I may raise the nute strength.
as long as it’s available the plant will take what it needs from the medium. We don’t actually feed the plant anything. We just restock the soil.
If you want to control things further that’s what hydro is for imo.
When I start to act like I am controlling things my plants tend to degrade. When I look at it like I said above and just supply only what they need and let them do their thing they seem to flourish.
U mean 200 EC(100ppm) of pbpg at earlier flower? . Starting at 5 ml/gal?I don’t overthink or pretend I can control uptake in potting soil. I use only ocean forest with 25% perlite through veg with my well water only and transplants to bigger pots with fresh soil. Cup, 1 gallon, 3 gallon. Then use only pure blend pro grow when the nutrients deplete in the final pot around week 2-3 in 12/12.
I try to give only what the plants need and go up in strength only about .2 ec at a time. Starting at 5 ml and almost never over 17.5 ml. I add the pbpg every watering once started. If I see leaf stress or brittle stems or whatever I give water only and measure the runoff to see what is needed. Then usually just pour a gallon of lighter strength nutes through. If I see a low ec or high ph I may raise the nute strength.
as long as it’s available the plant will take what it needs from the medium. We don’t actually feed the plant anything. We just restock the soil.
If you want to control things further that’s what hydro is for imo.
When I start to act like I am controlling things my plants tend to degrade. When I look at it like I said above and just supply only what they need and let them do their thing they seem to flourish.
U mean 200 EC(100ppm) of pbpg at earlier flower? . Starting at 5 ml/gal?
So I think I'm around week 2 of flowering, and been using this master blend.
When I start adding in the mono-phosphate, am I getting close soon?
Yea, I've been holding it around 600 for the smaller ones, and 900-1000 max, for the auto's that are in flower. Frankenstiens are beast with the intake, I expect that to some degree. I think your right, go mid, and dial the ratio's in better, so you can see what the fuck is actually happening.I would never be more than 1/2 to 2/3 of these directions. I like my input with chemical salt fertilizers to be between 1.0 (500ppm)and 1.5 (750ppm) max each watering.
I've started using my normal water also.
Yea, I've been holding it around 600 for the smaller ones, and 900-1000 max, for the auto's that are in flower. Frankenstiens are beast with the intake, I expect that to some degree. I think your right, go mid, and dial the ratio's in better, so you can see what the fuck is actually happening.
I was really worried when you pointed out my potassium deficit, but it's fine now, and it got ironed out in a timely manner, no harm, no foul.
My inter-nodes are developing normal, for an auto, most are look pretty damn good, actually.
I agree, people tend to want things immediately. I'll do things like check my plants, and I'll leave the lights down for awhile, while I'm tending them, and doing foliars. I am big into foliars now, my plants get sprays of some type virtually everyday, especially though sprout -> veg-> early flower. I back off to mid and late flowering, but still do a few minor treatments though-out with my glycerol surfactant. It allows me to put trace amounts of minerals in to adjust something like this in a quicker manner.Sometimes @Frankster i overthink all this and then start micro managing the plants. I always mess up the nutrition over or under feeding when I do this. They don’t respond fast like we think. So when I am thinking to feed the depleting soil to make sure it has enough but not too much complete balanced fertilizer then the plants tend to green back up in a few days.
plants want simple consistency. Humans want to control manage and overthink. We are not like them. Lol. :-)
I think that's probably a very accurate statement. I never thought I would see HPS showed the door, but that's what it looks like from here. I used to run dual 1200's, and I can do better with a single 650watts. and as much as a single 1000w HPS with my 350w. (and I used MH bulbs during veg) and the inter-noding looks much tighter, especially during veg.I also wanted to add that I am flowering under 600w hps. Lamps. Your new led puts down a lot more light than the hps does. So while I am at half strength nutes you may need full strength to keep up with the high light.
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