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Air Cool Cmh Bulbs?

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Air Cool Cmh Bulbs?

heisen 95 Replies 11,709 Views
Page 3 of 5 · Replies 41–60 of 96
#41
Freshone said:
Pharm hand is on the money,if you are air cooling your lights you are losing at least 10% to glass(any glass) and by cooling your bulb you are changing the spectrum losing even more.Take your bulbs out of air cooled hoods and you will see a big bump in yield and plant vigor.
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I have run my hoods without glass and ventilation in winter and it made no measurable difference.

The glass has been tested to only lose 4%. I wish I had the links.

Cool happy plants is more important to results. Or at least as important.
 
#42
MIMedGrower said:
Better reflectors have tempered glass which does not block it as much.

My metal halide in a glass enclosed blockbuster lamp still tints my uv tinting glasses.
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Tempering glass just makes it resistant to shattering it doesn't allow for more light transmission. Your glasses are tinting because of the uvA ,the glass allows a good portion of that through,however UVB is what's been proven to increase thc content. http://wiki.cancer.org.au/policy/Position_statement_-_Tinted_windows
UVA is still good for bringing out the anthocyanins aka purple but uvb is the hard one to come by and the tempered glass blocks it all. Standard mh are great for UV supplementation crushing the cmh in terms of output..... UVA and B


MIMedGrower said:
You are forgetting that an air cooled hood can be run closer to the plants actually increasing the amount of photons to the canopy.

Demon can get his cmh to 12". I can't seem to get closer than 16" open and vertical.

But uv is compromised. And the Phillips bulb I use is meant for vertical mounting for best par.
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I touched on this in an earlier post. First law of thermodynamics: energy cannot be created or destroyed. When you raise your lights your photons are just spreading out according to inverse square law they're all still there until they hit something that isn't 100% reflective they just keep bouncing around losing energy each bounce depending on the pigment/material they're bouncing off of. They hit something flat black and it mostly all gets converted to heat. And the closer you bring your light the smaller your footprint is so you lose space you could have more or wider plants. Plus your plants can only use/tolerate so much light intensity before the enzymatic wheel that drives photosynthesis just slips or your plant gets fried.
When I ran ac hoods I could put my hand on the glass in the winter time so I thought I could keep my lights really close but it just fried my plants and melted trichs. AC hood guys always bring that up but it really is a moot point.
In the case of multiple light sources running them higher will also give you more overlap ,less shade angles and more penetration......If I'm wrong, show me some info saying otherwise- I take no offense to being corrected I'm all about learning
 
#43
PharmHand said:
Tempering glass just makes it resistant to shattering it doesn't allow for more light transmission. Your glasses are tinting because of the uvA ,the glass allows a good portion of that through,however UVB is what's been proven to increase thc content. http://wiki.cancer.org.au/policy/Position_statement_-_Tinted_windows
UVA is still good for bringing out the anthocyanins aka purple but uvb is the hard one to come by and the tempered glass blocks it all. Standard mh are great for UV supplementation crushing the cmh in terms of output..... UVA and B




I touched on this in an earlier post. First law of thermodynamics: energy cannot be created or destroyed. When you raise your lights your photons are just spreading out according to inverse square law they're all still there until they hit something that isn't 100% reflective they just keep bouncing around losing energy each bounce depending on the pigment/material they're bouncing off of. They hit something flat black and it mostly all gets converted to heat. And the closer you bring your light the smaller your footprint is so you lose space you could have more or wider plants. Plus your plants can only use/tolerate so much light intensity before the enzymatic wheel that drives photosynthesis just slips or your plant gets fried.
When I ran ac hoods I could put my hand on the glass in the winter time so I thought I could keep my lights really close but it just fried my plants and melted trichs. AC hood guys always bring that up but it really is a moot point.
In the case of multiple light sources running them higher will also give you more overlap ,less shade angles and more penetration......If I'm wrong, show me some info saying otherwise- I take no offense to being corrected I'm all about learning
Click to expand...


Good Info here and I don't mind being corrected either.

Only thing is all rooms are different. High and diffuse light may work for a large room. But in my little spare bedroom I would not be able to get the lights to the approx. 18" sweet spot for most plants in my room without air cooling. I have a 6.5 height and only 7 feet of space.

I would need a tornado to cool open fixtures. I know. I open them in the coldest part of winter when my basement goes cold underneath. It does not affect yield in any noticeable way and the plants seem to want to be a few inches farther away from the open bulbs.

To me this again reinforces the distance thing.

Also I use direct down reflectors. Lifting them does not increase the footprint. They are engineered for 4 foot square footprints.

And I build the garden around the optimum light to footprint. I would not get similar results if I tried to spread out the light. I have tried.

You have made some generalities here that do not prove themselves in my garden.

Also I don't have a link handy but the uv loss from glass is from the angle. That is why tinting sunglasses do not tint in the car through the windshield.

Some uv but not all is hindered by the glass. Some of both get through.

The extra frost from uv is equal from my open 315 cmh and my glass enclosed Hortilux 600 Blue.

And I believe tempered is a process that also yields clearer glass.
 
#44
The only didference from tempered glass and "raw" glass. Tempered will break i to very small and safe pieces. Raw glass, will break off into large pueces and can kill you how sharp they are. I used to do residential and commercial glass
 
#45
DemonTrich said:
The only didference from tempered glass and "raw" glass. Tempered will break i to very small and safe pieces. Raw glass, will break off into large pueces and can kill you how sharp they are. I used to do residential and commercial glass
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Isn't there something better about the high line reflector glass? I can't remember what I read but it was a benefit of the Blockbuster from sunlight supply.
 
#46
Some hoods have lead free glass. I think that's what blocks uva/uvb. Im Not 100% though.
 
#49
DemonTrich said:
Can go to any glass shop.and get lead free glass. Shouldn't be more than $40 per hood.
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With all the talk of uv I am surprised this is the first time this mod has come up. It could be an effective upgrade.

I will have to do some research on glass and uv.

The 10k solis tec finishing bulbs outer jacket is low lead glass. Maybe there is something to this?

Thanks for the tip.
 
#51
Interesting to see Chm is starting to be used more. If you have a Phillips bulb coming why not ditch the hood run it bare? There should be advantages since they run cooler.

I am not positive but just starting a stacked bare bulb vert run. From what I have seen with 600's now the plant should get closer than ever.

The a.c. issue may finally met it's match. Instead of running a.c. so hard maybe a extra bulb or 2 can be added in. I am really curious as others are so what's left to do but run and find out.
 
#52
MIMedGrower said:
That's it. It was low lead glass that allows some uv b through.
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Come on now guys, it's 2017.... No need for speculation. Google that shit.... I gave the links.... Lead free glass which your hoods and most windows already are does not transmit uvb plain and simple click the link.... 90-91% transmission of light, fact.... I've lead you to the water, go on take a lil sip you'll like it.... Here's another link
http://www.explainthatstuff.com/glass.html
 
#53
heisenbubble said:
My ballast and bulbs will be here tues.I'm excited to run them.I'm gonna try and run them open hood if u can and than go from there
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From everything I've read they make far less heat per watt so you'll likely need a lot less cooling.... Check out the '14er guys on IG GuyForget SilentAmbassador they're running 20k+ of 315s with a single 5ton absolutely killing it. Good luck!
 
#54
There is of course glass that transmits more UV and lower but it's really expensive. A hood using it would cost significantly more putting it way out of price feasibility. Any manufacturer using that kind of glass would be advertising that feature. Look in the corner of your hoods glass pane for a manufacturer stamp. Unless it's Chinese glass it should say something like carlite( that's what mine said). Whatever the name is, google it see what you can find out. I'm interested to see what they are. Peace :)
 
#55
PharmHand said:
There is of course glass that transmits more UV and lower but it's really expensive. A hood using it would cost significantly more putting it way out of price feasibility. Any manufacturer using that kind of glass would be advertising that feature. Look in the corner of your hoods glass pane for a manufacturer stamp. Unless it's Chinese glass it should say something like carlite( that's what mine said). Whatever the name is, google it see what you can find out. I'm interested to see what they are. Peace :)
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Here is the description of the bulb. It says low iron or (low e) glass.

I was mistaken when I said lead. I meant iron.

But I do not know much about glass. I have now read your links.



Have not found it in my reflector. I am wrong about the glass there.

i should not have posted so hastily.
 
#56
PharmHand said:
From everything I've read they make far less heat per watt so you'll likely need a lot less cooling.... Check out the '14er guys on IG GuyForget SilentAmbassador they're running 20k+ of 315s with a single 5ton absolutely killing it. Good luck!
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This is what I'm hoping for.if I can get down to 18 inches and my account isn't kicking on every 5 min I'm good
 
#58
DemonTrich said:
12"
Np probs here
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Air cooled for that distance.

I am unsure why everyone says the bulb runs cooler. Cooler than what? A 600 or 1000 watt bulb.

It runs at a higher average temp for its wattage and that is why it puts out so much usable light. Higher temp fuller spectrum from the gasses inside.
 
#59
My a.c. kicks on less with 4x315 ac vs 3x600hps in a.c. hoods in the past.
 
#60
MIMedGrower said:
Better reflectors have tempered glass which does not block it as much.

My metal halide in a glass enclosed blockbuster lamp still tints my uv tinting glasses.
Click to expand...
Ive been waiting for someone to mfgr a ac hood plate glass in low iron glass like they do for reef tanks. Low iron glass allows more of the needed uv and par to hit the plants while staying with a ac hood. Far as I know the only low iron glass used in horticulture is solistek uses it in it s 10,000 k MH finishing bulb.
 
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