Pharm hand is on the money,if you are air cooling your lights you are losing at least 10% to glass(any glass) and by cooling your bulb you are changing the spectrum losing even more.Take your bulbs out of air cooled hoods and you will see a big bump in yield and plant vigor.
Tempering glass just makes it resistant to shattering it doesn't allow for more light transmission. Your glasses are tinting because of the uvA ,the glass allows a good portion of that through,however UVB is what's been proven to increase thc content. http://wiki.cancer.org.au/policy/Position_statement_-_Tinted_windowsBetter reflectors have tempered glass which does not block it as much.
My metal halide in a glass enclosed blockbuster lamp still tints my uv tinting glasses.
You are forgetting that an air cooled hood can be run closer to the plants actually increasing the amount of photons to the canopy.
Demon can get his cmh to 12". I can't seem to get closer than 16" open and vertical.
But uv is compromised. And the Phillips bulb I use is meant for vertical mounting for best par.
Tempering glass just makes it resistant to shattering it doesn't allow for more light transmission. Your glasses are tinting because of the uvA ,the glass allows a good portion of that through,however UVB is what's been proven to increase thc content. http://wiki.cancer.org.au/policy/Position_statement_-_Tinted_windows
UVA is still good for bringing out the anthocyanins aka purple but uvb is the hard one to come by and the tempered glass blocks it all. Standard mh are great for UV supplementation crushing the cmh in terms of output..... UVA and B
I touched on this in an earlier post. First law of thermodynamics: energy cannot be created or destroyed. When you raise your lights your photons are just spreading out according to inverse square law they're all still there until they hit something that isn't 100% reflective they just keep bouncing around losing energy each bounce depending on the pigment/material they're bouncing off of. They hit something flat black and it mostly all gets converted to heat. And the closer you bring your light the smaller your footprint is so you lose space you could have more or wider plants. Plus your plants can only use/tolerate so much light intensity before the enzymatic wheel that drives photosynthesis just slips or your plant gets fried.
When I ran ac hoods I could put my hand on the glass in the winter time so I thought I could keep my lights really close but it just fried my plants and melted trichs. AC hood guys always bring that up but it really is a moot point.
In the case of multiple light sources running them higher will also give you more overlap ,less shade angles and more penetration......If I'm wrong, show me some info saying otherwise- I take no offense to being corrected I'm all about learning
The only didference from tempered glass and "raw" glass. Tempered will break i to very small and safe pieces. Raw glass, will break off into large pueces and can kill you how sharp they are. I used to do residential and commercial glass
Some hoods have lead free glass. I think that's what blocks uva/uvb. Im Not 100% though.
Can go to any glass shop.and get lead free glass. Shouldn't be more than $40 per hood.
Come on now guys, it's 2017.... No need for speculation. Google that shit.... I gave the links.... Lead free glass which your hoods and most windows already are does not transmit uvb plain and simple click the link.... 90-91% transmission of light, fact.... I've lead you to the water, go on take a lil sip you'll like it.... Here's another linkThat's it. It was low lead glass that allows some uv b through.
From everything I've read they make far less heat per watt so you'll likely need a lot less cooling.... Check out the '14er guys on IG GuyForget SilentAmbassador they're running 20k+ of 315s with a single 5ton absolutely killing it. Good luck!My ballast and bulbs will be here tues.I'm excited to run them.I'm gonna try and run them open hood if u can and than go from there
There is of course glass that transmits more UV and lower but it's really expensive. A hood using it would cost significantly more putting it way out of price feasibility. Any manufacturer using that kind of glass would be advertising that feature. Look in the corner of your hoods glass pane for a manufacturer stamp. Unless it's Chinese glass it should say something like carlite( that's what mine said). Whatever the name is, google it see what you can find out. I'm interested to see what they are. Peace :)
This is what I'm hoping for.if I can get down to 18 inches and my account isn't kicking on every 5 min I'm goodFrom everything I've read they make far less heat per watt so you'll likely need a lot less cooling.... Check out the '14er guys on IG GuyForget SilentAmbassador they're running 20k+ of 315s with a single 5ton absolutely killing it. Good luck!
12"
Np probs here
Ive been waiting for someone to mfgr a ac hood plate glass in low iron glass like they do for reef tanks. Low iron glass allows more of the needed uv and par to hit the plants while staying with a ac hood. Far as I know the only low iron glass used in horticulture is solistek uses it in it s 10,000 k MH finishing bulb.Better reflectors have tempered glass which does not block it as much.
My metal halide in a glass enclosed blockbuster lamp still tints my uv tinting glasses.
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