Much better pics there Maton.
Okay you're primed to go - but definately move that cannon fan to that exhaust you've got there. I'd mount it directly to the exhaust, with maybe some weatherstripping between the piping to keep vibration down.
Trichomie said:
ive heard the inline fans pull better than push so you could even move that inline up to the attic and have it pull air . Hope this helps! Peace
You've heard? Haha.
Yea, it's called the Bernoulli principle. Very important.
It's how planes fly.
Airflow will be far greater, always *much* better to pull that push - you get that high-pressure>low pressure Bernoulli effect of fluid dynamics - instead of just shoving the weight of the air around.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernoulli's_principle
On that point, I disagree with pretty much everything Metameric posted:
Metameric said:
NOT for actively venting light heat with an outside intake. If you place it at the end of the chain, it will be pulling stinky air into the fixtures through the cracks in the line/tape and blowing it outside.
Yea for some reason hydro-employees spout this line of logic all the time but it's really a bad read of fluid dynamics and also inherently makes makes two poorly founded presumptions that Metameric himself doesn't make for his own suggestion 1) the hood is shitty; and 2) the insulated duct work has holes (what? Did you see his picture?)
Whatever "cracks" are in his hood (and lots of hoods are a little cheap here but Maton's looks okay - he can tell us if it is completely airtight or not) are going to be very large - if it's like my EasyCool6 - it might not be hermetically sealed, but it *is* effectively airtight.
If you have un-kinked ducting like Maton's and a large, powerful fan - like Maton's - you can pretty much point to places where air will move with no effort - and places where it will move only with *alot* of effort - like whatever 'cracks' on the corners of the hood for instance - you can again rely on the Bernoulli principle to tell you where the airflow will come from.
So if some infintesimally small fraction of the airflow is somehow "unfiltered" off the hood - it isn't going to generate some grow-revealing phantom smell.
. . . what might reveal some phantom smell is recirculating the same stagnant, pungent grow air through the same room over and over again . . .
Anyway, apparently, the same logic doesn't apply to Metameric's suggestion, since all the same "cracks" and holes in the line magically disappeer when you pull the air from the outside:
Metameric said:
I would keep the room a closed system and have the carbon recirculating air around the room, keeping your AC cooled air in the house, but have a vent somewhere pull air into the room with a 6" 'inductor' (~$30 at home depot, lowes, etc) then blowing out your roof vent. No scrubbing is necessary, as there will be no stink sucked into the system.
Maton, put the fan at the end of the line. The carbon filter at the beginning, and the hoods and lights in the middle.
Everything flows best that way.
Keeps the air moving, smell down, and room cool.
Metameric said:
Every watt generates roughly 3.4BTUs, so 600w=~2000BTU.
Sort of - but not for HID lighting.
You're moving that watt around too much - letting it do to many things - a "watt" in an electrical rating somewhere doesn't immediately translate into that equivalent amount of heat-by-product.
The "600w" in 600w HPS means that the device has 600watts of input power at the bulb.
"Watt" is just a way of quantifying joules-per-second, the watts can't both be heat and light.
Obviously, most of that 600w is light.
Maton said:
Also is there any other upgrades that would be effective besides a co2 system that Im trying to get?
Um. To add co2 to that particular arrangement, you'd need to rework things pretty considerably and add a second cannon fan to effectively deal with odor.
Why don't you add another light or two first? You already have plenty of airflow.
co2 is the *last* thing to do here - you have lots of space and headroom with the equipment you have.
EDIT: Maton, I forgot you had a A/C there. Um - I actually would probably drop that - you'd free up electricity for lights and that cannon fan has got to move massive amounts of air.
If you really want to use it - Metameric was right about running a outside vent to the lamps, then back outside - that is the way to do this - but you'd have to get a second cannon fan to treat the air in the grow space itself with the carbon filter since the cannon fan you have will be taken up with lamp-cooling duty.
