Air Cooled Hood Info

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rmoltis

rmoltis

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This is the first time i ever read a good reason to push air past the lights rather than pulling air .and everything you posted makes sense,nice.thanks.

No problem.

Half the battle is understanding why.

A clear and thorough explanation can go a long ways.

Hope this helps people :)
 
Natural

Natural

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rmoltis on point! if you are cooling multiple lights and if you can swing it..run the fan and ducting for the lights on it's own loop with no filter..maybe a dust shroom. Then you can put your fan/filter (intake/out-take) on their own separate lines too.
 
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DANKSY

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i like the answer provided by science. it makes sense. but, i have pushed and pulled air through lights... and pushing has never worked as well. maybe its just me.. but i could never get it to work well.
 
rmoltis

rmoltis

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i like the answer provided by science. it makes sense. but, i have pushed and pulled air through lights... and pushing has never worked as well. maybe its just me.. but i could never get it to work well.


That is interesting.
What part of it doesn't work for you?
I'm not trying to argue or anything just curious.

I read in many fan manufacturer specs to place fan before the light fixture. To avoid heat exposure.
But they give no other explanations as to their decisions why other than the heat reduces their effective lifespan.
 
Natural

Natural

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i like the answer provided by science. it makes sense. but, i have pushed and pulled air through lights... and pushing has never worked as well. maybe its just me.. but i could never get it to work well.
hey bro..been a busy week..been meaning to msg you.
We would probably need a wind speed calculator to prove one way or another which is more efficient..but the reason I push is because these crappy raptor hoods leak like a mofo. When I push I go and tape the whistles up..and make sure I over-size the piss out of the fan with a reducer. Finally gave up on these and bought these cooltubes with big ass box reflectors, currently being installed..donating these raptors to a new home.
 
rmoltis

rmoltis

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hey bro..been a busy week..been meaning to msg you.
We would probably need a wind speed calculator to prove one way or another which is more efficient..but the reason I push is because these crappy raptor hoods leak like a mofo. When I push I go and tape the whistles up..and make sure I over-size the piss out of the fan with a reducer. Finally gave up on these and bought these cooltubes with big ass box reflectors, currently being installed..donating these raptors to a new home.

It may not simply be a cfm thing in/out.
Air under pressure may flow fewer cfms but the higher pressure in theory may carry away more btu's.

We would have to have a way to calculate how many btu's get removed per minute or hour between the 2 options.


I agree with you on the leaking fixtures and ducting being one of the main reasons I like the idea.
I like knowing if it leaks back into the tent it will be scrubbed air being rescrubbed.
vs
unfiltered air being drawn through light fixture and ducting when pulled from the end point.

I bet your gonna love your cooltubes.
They maintain the shape of the ducting and don't cause wierd wind patterns like inside a square hood.
Sounds like those fixtures added more resistance.
 
Natural

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right..just measure the ambient temps of the hoods maybe..gotta be close in cfm's
 
ArcticOrange

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You can do it without the ac... i do and i run them in summer.
Run your lights at night and get a 400 cfm blower for each 1k hood. Pump the air into the space from the bottom and dump the air into the next room.

Live in northern climate running 600w with reflector hood in roughly half that space. 400cfm fan for the light and one for exhaust, i exhaust the air into the living area for heat in the winter. My space sits at 72-74 degrees 24/7 no ac.
 
GT21

GT21

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Live in northern climate running 600w with reflector hood in roughly half that space. 400cfm fan for the light and one for exhaust, i exhaust the air into the living area for heat in the winter. My space sits at 72-74 degrees 24/7 no ac.
Same here... pump n dumps are truly the most efficient way to go. I run open 1ks but its the same principle. .. move all the air from point a to point b and let the room bring in new stuff.
 
ArcticOrange

ArcticOrange

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Same here... pump n dumps are truly the most efficient way to go. I run open 1ks but its the same principle. .. move all the air from point a to point b and let the room bring in new stuff.

Agreed, i never wanna have to factor AC into my grams per watt calc.
 
GT21

GT21

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Agreed, i never wanna have to factor AC into my grams per watt calc.
Nor use a heater in the winter.... a dehumidifier is a different story but ya.... way more efficient if you have a touch of hvac or air circulation knowledge. .. here it gets to 108 in the summer but my lights dont come on till 9-10 at night
 
Ooopsi

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@rmoltis great! Fyi: I made the changes. Working like a charm. Before, I had it like this: open hood on one side, ducting to the exterior, exhaust standing outside the box, filter. Now the setup is: filter, exhaust, hood, all air is just pushed out of the top of the box. Keeps the temperatures +- 4 degress lower than with the previous setup. The air has to travel a shorter distance too so all in all I prefer this to my last setup. It's a bit more quiet as well. Many thanks mate!
 
Borat

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  1. @rmoltis I dont think the higher pressure better heat absorption aspect will work in these circumstances. 5 bar is ~70 psi and even 2 bar(where it seems barely incrementally better heat capacity would begin) is 30 psi or 2 times atmospheric pressure. Do you know how to what pressure ~400-600 cfm pushed through 6" would be because I doubt there would be much resistance/pressure. Kinda interesting though, learning how to make a sealed room is shitty and Im trying to determine if Co2 enrichment will be worth the extra upfront and perpetual costs of the whole room.:sweating:
 
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