An Amazing OG Recipe I Want To Share With Everyone

[noone88]

Thanks for the post. I'm always looking for replacements for my nutrient program. I have a feeling that many nutrients are private-labeled nutrients with a fancy bottle and a brand name.

 

[MR.SOG]

socalkushtech -
what made you use floralicious+ at 10ml/gal instead of the recommended dose of 1ml/gal? it seems pretty excessive.

 

[greenthumbdanny]

Mr.SOG:

My Vegetative time for 8 plants is be anywhere between 4 - 6 weeks, not including the week or two hardening off under T5's before going in the Vegetative room. If there are 16 per light then the Vegetative time is 2 weeks, again not including the time for hardening off.

It all depends which one I use, if I am doing straight Hugo's then I am running 16 per light, so yes they go from Veg all the way through. If I use Delta 10's (4"x4"x4") I put them on top of 36"x6"x3" slabs cut equally into 3 pieces. So roughly each mini slab is 10"x6"x3", and the 4" goes on top of that. That is when I run 8 - 9 plants per light.

And yes I can definitely get a 1/4 lb a plant with the right veg time along with proper canopy training, as well as having the atmosphere dialed in properly. A lot of topping, super cropping, and a hell of a lot of bondage with cages goes a long way.

And no, I do not have root zone issues at all; since I use Piranha & Tarantula the whole cube is a whole mass of roots because of the symbiotic relationship the fungi produce so I do not have to worry about anything like that.

And no, I would not use the Uni-Slab, that thing is too damn big and would hold too much water. I want to water every day, not every other day or every other 2nd day. Plus the moisture inside of it can promote the profuse breeding on Fungus Gnats so you have to be careful...

The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|

Thanks for sharing Kind Man..
I am a firm believer in more roots = more fruit... What do ya think about them slabs vs the coco mats. I stack em up>>> I currently use the Hugo Blocks on coco mats @ 16 per 1K light.. What do ya think about throwing them slabs underneath the hugos>>>>That or Im thinking of the Big Mama's 8x8's:)

That is pretty impressive pulling a 1/4 pound off og:harvest:

:passingjoint:

Veg:
Pure blend pro grow as directed* or GH floranova grow at 6-800ppm
Calmg+150- 250ppms or
5-10/gallon
Revive 1ml/gallon
Roots excelerator 1ml/gal
some form of silicate.
Sperthrive 1drop/gallon
Floralicious+ 10ml/gallon
Oregonism XL or great white, as recommended w carboload throughout 1st week of bloom

Foliar veg & bloom:
VHO 400 ppm, every other day. Can exceed 200 ppm every application to 800ppms. Don't add anything except wetting agent like wet betty or coco-wet to PH 6.0 use until bloom, then discard VHO from mix when blooming
Superthrive 1 drop per gallon
Revive 4ml* per gallon
Floralicious+ 10ml/ gallon
Bills perfect fertilzer as recommended.

-----------------------------------
Bloom:
Floranova bloom or
GH Flora micro 5ml/gal & bloom 10ml per gallon or 800-1000ppm
Calmg+ 200- 250 ppms
I also throw a pinch of epsom salts for added mg. during the bloom phase. 2 things you really cant go overboard on in bloom… humic, fulvic, and Mg.
Floralicious+ 10ml/gallon
additional Diamond Nectar at recommended dose.
Vermicrop compost teas. add from week 3-7 at recommended dose. this will give you more complex flavors and it really helps keep the medium from building up salts. as does Hygrozyme.
Big bud or bud Xl. 200-250ppm throughout day 10-50
Overdrive, Moab, koolbloom powder, monster bloom, or shooting powder at 200ppm last 10 days before flush. (I like overdrive,shooting powder best.
Superthrive 1 drop/ gallon
Revive 1ml/gallon
Carboload 2-3 ml/gallon 1st/last 2 weeks of veg and bloom.
Barricade, pro silicate, silica, Protekt for ph up. this will help strengthen cellular walls and create larger vascular systems to suck food up. the thicker branches will also help hold the buds up, but trellising is still recommended.
---------------------------

Flush:
Week 1 carboload 2-3ml per gallon,
Floralicious+ 5ml/gallon
Hygrozym 5-8ml

Week 2
RO water Ph'ed to 5.2-5.5 until plants leaves yellow/purple and begin to fall off. Allow the plant to fully mature by letting the plant eat off it's stored food in foliage. This flush will insure that.
I have flushed for over 20 days to achieve full maturation. Best yeild,* taste, bouquet, but went 10-1/2 weeks.
----------------------------------------
Environment:
Day- Air 72-82 degrees
40-55% relative humidity.
Resivior temp 69-74
Dark cycle temps* 59-70
---------------------------------------
Notes:
Ph should be dropped 1/10th a point/week from start to finish
Week 1 bloom should be about 6.1
Wk 2 6.0 wk 3 5.9 wk 4 5.8 week 5 5.7 wk 6 5.6 wk 7 5.5 til finished.
Ppm should never really need to exceed 1200ppm.

If this seems complicated, go the simple route written below. I guarantee better quality with the above formula if you can keep your PH stabile, though yield will be about the same or a little better if environment is perfect.
Flush with 6.0 between res changes every 10 days.
OregonismXL or great white is a replacement for both hydroguard and/or P&T for $30... Shits off the hook
----------------------------------------
Basic bloom formula:
floranova 1 part 800-1000 ppms (5-8ml/gal)
Calmg+ 250 ppms
Floralicious+ 10ml/gallon
Carbo flush

Simplicity rocks y'all, and it stays stabile. nothing to encourage suspension fallout, and just works great. If you are not experienced, or you are but have had the 2+ program screw you up, this is a simple regiment that works for anything! it will look good, smell great, taste good and be very potent. the erg above is really for pros. As pro's can usually dictate what their plants need and can adjust the formula as needed.

Please don't for 1 second let the guy at the hydro store fool you into believing that all you need to do is buy $5000 in gimmicky products to get the best yields and quality. it does not work that way. it takes decades to learn what plants want and when. the calculator AN gives you is inaccurate, it is designed to do one thing.. Take your money!

Hey thanks for sharing socal..
I know what ya mean by the flushing>>> especially in your week 2 of flushing I am in 100% in agreeance ya's.
:passingjoint:

 

[SOCALKUSHTECH]

socalkushtech -
what made you use floralicious+ at 10ml/gal instead of the recommended dose of 1ml/gal? it seems pretty excessive.

I wish I had pics to show you why. I used to have palets of humic and fulvic acid from AN. I would add a liter of each to every 70 gallon res. my bubbakush would trich out so hard some trichromes would actually explode! leaving amber globs almost a 1/4" in diameter all over the buds by day 50. I never seen anything like it in my life! so now use 5-10x the recommended dose of humics
notice I use diamond nectar on top of floralicious+ even though it already has the humics in it? you will never see more trichrome and flower development without using it excessively :420:

 

[noone88]

AN humic and fulvic is expensive though :(

Anyone have alternatives to humic and fulvic acid (humic and fulvic by itself, not in blends like PBP). Does Diamond Nectar have enough humic/fulvic to use by itself?

 

[REGISTRD]

AN humic and fulvic is expensive though :(

Anyone have alternatives to humic and fulvic acid (humic and fulvic by itself, not in blends like PBP). Does Diamond Nectar have enough humic/fulvic to use by itself?

Ya good points!! Not sure if the Diamond Nector is the equal to the F1(fulvic acid) or not...

So ya Socalkushtech..If your using a 2 part A. B. what is the alternatives to getting your fulvics/humics at a cheaper cost compared to AN..
what would you say Flora plus is compared to in the AN line?
Also noticed you still put BIg bud and overdrive what are the alternatives to those??

 

[noone88]

I use 500ml of F1/H2 in my 115 gal reservoirs. I wonder if increasing it would have any noticeable change.

I used to use Big Bud from AN, but I have switched to Ginormous from Humboldt Nutrients as my bloom enhancer during the middle of my bloom cycle.

The application rate on the label says 5-15ml per gallon, but I have found 2-5 ml per gallon is sufficient. Even using 3ml per gallon, I start getting nute burn on the edges.

I use the GH gro/micro/bloom 1:2:3 as my base.

What's the reasoning for using a different bloom enhancer for the end of the bloom cycle? ie big bud/overdrive, ginormous/big up?

 

[SOCALKUSHTECH]

Noone88 the different PK ratios will help swell calyx formation and give the plant that last little push. it will also help harden off the buds and fill in the gaps when applied at the right time.

REG Fulvic acid in 50% powder form was available at home depot. if you google humic or fulvic acid you can find commercial agriculture powders over 20% concentrated for $20 a pound. Diamond nectar has so many false rumours about it. the bottle says one thing, but I have heard straight from the horses mouth that it is the only way to register the product and that it is the purest form of humics your going to find. don't be fooled by the label that reads .001%. it's super strong stuff. If you like Humic, try Fossil fuel. just make sure to wear your work clothes. the stuff is straight black!

 

[noone88]

I heard the same thing about Diamond Nectar; they had to mislabel it to get it approved. California does not approve of fulvic or humic (can't remember which).

Thanks for the info regarding using different bloom enhancers.

What do you think of Scorpion Juice/Bud Factor X?

 

[noone88]

Humic and Fulvic in powder form. 300 grams for $20. Application rate is approximately 0.5g per gallon.

 

[SOCALKUSHTECH]

[QUOTE

What do you think of Scorpion Juice/Bud Factor X?[/QUOTE]

I don't. Aspirin and crab shells? chitosan is good, but sacrylic acid is no bueno. what is bud factor X?

 

[noone88]

They got rid of SJ and it's replaced with bud factor X. Supposedly a combination of Scorpion Juice and one of their older bloom enhancers.

 

[CheechWizard]

AN humic and fulvic is expensive though :(

Anyone have alternatives to humic and fulvic acid (humic and fulvic by itself, not in blends like PBP). Does Diamond Nectar have enough humic/fulvic to use by itself?

A good quality humic acid I recommend is Humax. Its cheap, you can get 5 gallons for $60. Use it @1tbs per. gallon.

 

[noone88]

Thanks, I ordered the BioAG powder. I'll give the Humax a try next cycle.

I manage 5x115 gallon flowering reservoirs on 10 day changes. Anything to make the nutrients a bit more efficient/cheaper goes a long way.

 

[chranotik]

There are a few other points I want to touch on that are more important than the nutrient solution itself. Because if you do not have these conditions at their optimum state, the nutrients you are using will not be used to their maximum potential.

First, I want to touch on the temperature aspect. With CO2 enriched air at 2000 ppm's or higher, it is perfectly acceptable to run your temperatures between 78 - 82 degrees. Anything higher than that transpiration comes to a halt, and your plants will literally drown, as well as having internal damage from extreme heat exposure. Even with lower amounts of CO2 enrichment (1000 ppm - 1600 ppm), you should run no lower than 72 and no higher than 79 degrees.

Second, humidity plays a huge role in plant transpiration as well as disease/pathogen proliferation. Keep humidity at all times no higher than 55% during the flowering period to ensure optimal plant transpiration and non proliferation of plant and canopy diseases and pathogens.

Third, keep your water temperature at no lower than 63 and no higher than 72! Dissolved oxygen is most present in solution at 62 degrees Fahrenheit and is completely diminished at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. To reach optimum nutrient uptake, keep your reservoir temperatures between 67 - 70 for best results.

Fourth, as stated above, keep your CO2 enrichment at (or preferably above) 1600 ppms at all times during flowering. The more CO2 you pump to them the more they can use it to build sugars and optimize photosynthesis and bud formation.

Keep in mind everyone that the most basic elements for photosynthesis are Light, CO2, Water, and the Atmosphere conditions stated above. They all have a symbiotic relationship with each other. If one of these conditions is at 50%, they're all at 50%.

I cannot stress enough that the atmosphere is the most important factor in any grow!!! More important than any nutrient you can give them, because if these requirements are not fulfilled your nutrients will not be working at their optimum potential! Money is lost, and as expensive as these nutrients are, there is no need or room to waste.

Hope this helps! I know it sure helped me when I first learned it!

The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|

aren't you supposed to cut out or lower the co2 ppms in the last 2 weeks for potency?

 

[chranotik]

There are a few other points I want to touch on that are more important than the nutrient solution itself. Because if you do not have these conditions at their optimum state, the nutrients you are using will not be used to their maximum potential.

First, I want to touch on the temperature aspect. With CO2 enriched air at 2000 ppm's or higher, it is perfectly acceptable to run your temperatures between 78 - 82 degrees. Anything higher than that transpiration comes to a halt, and your plants will literally drown, as well as having internal damage from extreme heat exposure. Even with lower amounts of CO2 enrichment (1000 ppm - 1600 ppm), you should run no lower than 72 and no higher than 79 degrees.

Second, humidity plays a huge role in plant transpiration as well as disease/pathogen proliferation. Keep humidity at all times no higher than 55% during the flowering period to ensure optimal plant transpiration and non proliferation of plant and canopy diseases and pathogens.

Third, keep your water temperature at no lower than 63 and no higher than 72! Dissolved oxygen is most present in solution at 62 degrees Fahrenheit and is completely diminished at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. To reach optimum nutrient uptake, keep your reservoir temperatures between 67 - 70 for best results.

Fourth, as stated above, keep your CO2 enrichment at (or preferably above) 1600 ppms at all times during flowering. The more CO2 you pump to them the more they can use it to build sugars and optimize photosynthesis and bud formation.

Keep in mind everyone that the most basic elements for photosynthesis are Light, CO2, Water, and the Atmosphere conditions stated above. They all have a symbiotic relationship with each other. If one of these conditions is at 50%, they're all at 50%.

I cannot stress enough that the atmosphere is the most important factor in any grow!!! More important than any nutrient you can give them, because if these requirements are not fulfilled your nutrients will not be working at their optimum potential! Money is lost, and as expensive as these nutrients are, there is no need or room to waste.

Hope this helps! I know it sure helped me when I first learned it!

The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|

aren't you supposed to cut out or lower co2 ppms in the last 2 weeks for potency?

 

[chranotik]

ah stupid slow internet, could someone delete that other post please.

 

[tgrower420]

Thank you,

Thank you Mr. M for all your help and advice it is much appricated! - frick,frack

 

[The Kind Man]

SoCalKushTech:

Good looking out S.C.K.T. that is a nice recipe! Thank you very much for sharing it! I am sure everyone here will learn from it! Spread the knowledge!!! Again good looking out!

GreenThumbDanny:

Hey GTD, no problem at all.

You are 150% right that more roots equals more fruit. Everything in nature is proportional, the top of your plant is roughly equal to that of its root zone. So it is only natural that if you have more roots you have more & bigger flowers because of all that extra nutrient uptake occurring.

I am a firm believer in sticking to one media throughout when it comes to those particular two mediums... If you are using Rockwool stick with it. If you are using Coco stick with it. Don't mix them.

You see, Coco has a different Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) than Rockwool, and requires different nutrients in different proportions to thrive to its peak potential. Since Coco is naturally high in Phosphorus & Potassium and initially causes Calcium and Magnesium to not be released properly to the root zone, nutrients requirements need to be adjusted accordingly.

All this being said, what satisfies your Rockwool nutritional regiment is usually too high in Phosphorus and Potassium for Coco so you have a higher chance of nutrient lockout and/or nutrient burning occurring when the roots hit the coir as well as Calcium or Magnesium deficiencies and/or toxicity's, which can snow ball into a plethora of other Macro and Micro nutrient deficiencies and/or toxicity's.

I have tried putting the Hugo's on top of slabs but again it held too much water to where I could water only every other day, so I only use 4-inch cubes of top of slabs. That Big Momma sounds interesting, but again it might hold too much water.
But hey, do not get me wrong, putting Hugo's on top of slabs or Big Momma's is much more forgiving if you happen to miss a day in your room watering wise. So if your room isn't accessible everyday that is a good way to go. For me it is not because when I have a project going I am there everyday, so that just works for me. But if it works for you, hell ya go for it!

The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|

 

[The Kind Man]

Chranotik:

Here is how I keep my CO2 ppms in the room:

Cloning:
Normal Air (where I am approximately 500 ppm)

Hardening Off:
H1 - 700
H 1.5 - 800

Vegetative:
V1 - 1000
V2 - 1100
V3 - 1200
V4 - 1300
V5 (if necessary) - 1400

Flowering:
F1 - 1700
F2 - 1800
F3 - 2000
F4 - 2200
F5 - 2200
F6 - 2200
F7 - 2000
F8 - 1800
F9 - 1500 (Only 3-4 days in then it gets shut off)
F10 - normal air

Hope this helps.

The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|