Nugg said:

The last pic posted says most of it..temps way to low...pH.is way to low..and ppm.are 3 times over the legal limit..haha..your air temps are ok..rh..ok.. maybe little higher..I prefer at first...and soon as put seed in put it in your tank..not in a open container for air and lights and everything else to come in contact with your fragile new roots...you do them things I promise you will make it to water..cheers.seeds and time are money..

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those are not the numbers for the seedlings, they are for the survivor of the first germination of a pair. The seedlings get nothing but bottled water until i see roots. Then i put them in 3in net pots so that the bottom is on dry hydrostone. At the time they go into the grow cabinet rez the ppm was about 250. It stayed there until last week. I plan on doing the same with the Root Riots since i don't know how they behave. Fellow farmer have implored me to pay close attention to how much splash gets to the RR cubes so i added another layer of stones. PH is exactly 6.0 and stable.

The photo published earlier was of the flower cabinet. The rez is still cycling after the last grow (hydroguard & PlusLife and has been running about a week). Before i move them from the grow cabinet to the flower cabinet I will make sure the PPM is a match. I will also add another layer or two to keep it high enough to keep the splash off the RR.

AnselAdams said:

those are not the numbers for the seedlings, they are for the survivor of the first germination of a pair. The seedlings get nothing but bottled water until i see roots. Then i put them in 3in net pots so that the bottom is on dry hydrostone. At the time they go into the grow cabinet rez the ppm was about 250. It stayed there until last week. I plan on doing the same with the Root Riots since i don't know how they behave. Fellow farmer have implored me to pay close attention to how much splash gets to the RR cubes so i added another layer of stones. PH is exactly 6.0 and stable.

The photo published earlier was of the flower cabinet. The rez is still cycling after the last grow (hydroguard & PlusLife and has been running about a week). Before i move them from the grow cabinet to the flower cabinet I will make sure the PPM is a match. I will also add another layer or two to keep it high enough to keep the splash off the RR.

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Then NVM.. sounds like you have it..looks like those root roots helped..still would just start inner pot next time..good luck..

OK, update time.

I have given each of the girls a color tag to help with identification as the grow gets along.

Ms. Purple is the old survivor of the first germination that first cleared the surface of the RW on Jan 1
Ms. Yellow is the first up, & most healthy seedling from the second batch in Root Riot starters. It cleared the surface on Feb 1
Ms. Green is the second up in Root Riot starter. That is the one that looked like it had a broken neck.
Ms. Orange was the third but it seems like it is stunted.

Watering is serious guesswork here. I am trying to focus on putting most on the sides. as soon as i see more than a single root i will put into 3 in net-cups.

Just discovered that Ms. Purple has the first new roots poking through the 6 inch net-pot!!

I always keep a eye on your updates, love the passion and grow ! Keep it up bro

Burned Haze said:

I always keep a eye on your updates, love the passion and grow ! Keep it up bro

Click to expand...

Thank You. I need all the help and advice I can get.

Update time..... I think I lost one ! ☹

Ms. Yellow has not moved since the last update. Not a good sign. However the root coming out the side was still white so I went ahead and move it to a 3in net pot along with the other two. (it is not dry, just a harsh light angle).

Update Time!

Ms. Purple has started flower right on schedule; at the end of week 4 since germ. The stretch has begun and i topped only the node on the top right (should have done it three days ago, life intervened). I did not do the other side because this lady will remain in this cabinet. The other two which are closer in age will go into the other closet after i drop the ppm to 250. It has been cooking with enzymes for over two weeks now so it should be very stable. Dropping it to 250 and keeping it there for a week will ensure stability when i transplant as soon as the roots show themselves through the 3 inch net pots.

The second pair of survivors is also doing nicely. I have them in 3 inch cups sitting atop another 3 inch net pot full of stones which actually sit in the water with hydroguard, cal-mag & +Life enzyme. I will be dropping the PPM in DDRE so that i can put the newbies in the next couple of weeks. I have ordered two more drip-rings since the one i have seems to working as planned.

The watering plan i worked out for the newbies is to dunk the entire netpot into the rez for 10 seconds. Then place it back on top of the other so that it gets spray on the outside from the airstone. The outside is just damp not wet, so as to draw the roots to the outside.

I could be wrong, but the spots on the lower leaves in the second picture look like they could be septoria. Still an awesome grow though!

Are you adjusting the PH? I see you talking about PPM a bunch but never ph.

bunkerking said:

Are you adjusting the PH? I see you talking about PPM a bunch but never ph.

Click to expand...

I adjust the ph as needed. I usually allow the PH to drift between 6.5 & 5.5 so as to take up the full range of nutes. It usually takes days sometimes weeks to move significantly.

Once the grow gets going the ph is very, very stable. At least it has been. I guess it can always go bonkers.

Kanzeon said:

I could be wrong, but the spots on the lower leaves in the second picture look like they could be septoria. Still an awesome grow though!

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I hope you are wrong. Those are the first two sets of leaves that usually start to die in the first week or so after exhausting the store sugar/starches used for germination.
What gives me hope is that the upper leaves show no damage at this time.

AnselAdams said:

I adjust the ph as needed. I usually allow the PH to drift between 6.5 & 5.5 so as to take up the full range of nutes. It usually takes days sometimes weeks to move significantly.

Once the grow gets going the ph is very, very stable. At least it has been. I guess it can always go bonkers.

Click to expand...

Perfect, just wanted to make sure. As I didn't really see any mentions of it. Keep on trucking! You can do it!

AnselAdams said:

I hope you are wrong. Those are the first two sets of leaves that usually start to die in the first week or so after exhausting the store sugar/starches used for germination.
What gives me hope is that the upper leaves show no damage at this time.

Click to expand...

I would apply for preventive ( once you get any of these disease your fucked and the counter attack protect once you do isn’t worth it, prevention is the key... ) copper ( many brands ) + Regalia ( use up till harvest and use bio insecticides like Grandevo or venerate no prob) after first set of leafs ( every 7-12 days )

than you have some safe systemic protection (12 days ) and another benefit of regalia is it makes your plant a overall happier and vigorous plant . Thus better results

getting the the non cannabis label of regalia is way cheaper (everything from that brand is & it’s 100% % ingredients)

Drench or foliar spray ( I do both ) since your running hydro I would suggest foliar cause that regalia def foams a shit tons and def stains (orangish-brown) , what I would is foliar spray every 7 days to be safe with copper (copper can’t be sprayed past 3-4 week of flower )

AnselAdams said:

I hope you are wrong. Those are the first two sets of leaves that usually start to die in the first week or so after exhausting the store sugar/starches used for germination.
What gives me hope is that the upper leaves show no damage at this time.

Click to expand...

I also hope I'm wrong!

It hasn't been my experience that the lower leaves have spots like that as they fade. But I've grown enough tomatoes and peppers that if I see spots that could be septoria, it's time for counter measures.

Burned Haze said:

I would apply for preventive ( once you get any of these disease your fucked and the counter attack protect once you do isn’t worth it, prevention is the key... ) copper ( many brands ) + Regalia ( use up till harvest and use bio insecticides like Grandevo or venerate no prob) after first set of leafs ( every 7-12 days )

than you have some safe systemic protection (12 days ) and another benefit of regalia is it makes your plant a overall happier and vigorous plant . Thus better results

getting the the non cannabis label of regalia is way cheaper (everything from that brand is & it’s 100% % ingredients)

Drench or foliar spray ( I do both ) since your running hydro I would suggest foliar cause that regalia def foams a shit tons and def stains (orangish-brown) , what I would is foliar spray every 7 days to be safe with copper (copper can’t be sprayed past 3-4 week of flower )

Regalia® | Control Powdery Mildew | Pro Farm Group - Formerly Marrone Bio Innovations

Regalia® Bioungicide delivers improved crop yield and harvest quality by stimulating a plant’s ability to fight diseases. Effectively control Powdery mildew.

marronebio.com

Click to expand...

Roger that... @ $90 for a quart, it will have to wait until I get paid on Friday. I have isolated the plant to its own cabinet just to be safe.

Thanks for the heads-up guys. That is why i love this site....

p.s. I also removed the leaves with the spots and everything below.

. . .

Septoria Leaf Spot of Tomato

Septoria leaf spot, also called Septoria blight, occurs throughout the United States and worldwide wherever tomatoes are grown. This disease can be quite destructive and crop losses of up to 100% have been reported in heavily defoliated fields. Septoria leaf spot is primarily a disease of tomato, but it has been reported on other Solanaceous hosts including eggplant, potato, petunia, horsenettle, and black nightshade.

SYMPTOMS AND DISEASE DEVELOPMENT:
Septoria leaf spot is caused by the fungus Septoria lycopersici. This fungus can attack tomatoes at any stage of development, but symptoms usually first appear on the older, lower leaves and stems when plants are setting fruit. Symptoms usually appear on leaves, but can occur on petioles, stems, and the calyx. The first symptoms appear as small, water-soaked, circular spots 1/16 to 1/8" in diameter on the undersides of older leaves. The centers of these spots then turn gray to tan and have a dark-brown margin. The spots are distinctively circular and are often quite numerous. As the spots age, they sometimes enlarge and often coalesce. A diagnostic feature of this disease is the presence of many dark-brown, pimple-like structures called pycnidia (fruiting bodies of the fungus) that are readily visible in the tan centers of the spots. When spots are numerous, affected leaves turn yellow and eventually shrivel up, brown, and drop off. Defoliation usually starts on the oldest leaves and can quickly spread progressively up the plant toward the new growth. Significant losses can result from early leaf-drop and often leads to the subsequent sunscalding of the fruit when plants are prematurely defoliated.

Septoria leaf spot is favored by warm, wet, humid conditions. Although the fungus can survive in or on seed and in weed hosts, the main source of inoculum is from leaf fragments and other plant debris from diseased plants that "overwinter" in the soil. Under wet conditions, spores (also called conidia) of the fungus are produced in the pycnidia. These spores are spread to healthy tomato leaves by windblown water, splashing rain, overhead irrigation systems, hands and clothing of pickers, cultivation equipment, and several types of insects such as Colorado potato beetles, flea beetles, tomato worms, and aphids. Following this initial spread and when free moisture is present on the leaves, the spores germinate, infect the tomato tissues, and spots usually appear within 5 days. Pycnidia subsequently develop in these new spots, more spores are produced, secondary cycles of infection begin, and the disease spreads.

MANAGEMENT:
The effects of Septoria leaf spot can be minimized by following a multifaceted approach to disease management that includes sanitary, cultural, and chemical methods. It is very important to eliminate initial sources of inoculum by removing or destroying as much of the tomato debris as possible after harvest in the fall. Alternatively, in large fields where plant removal is not practical, plant debris can be covered and buried by deep plowing. These simple sanitary practices can significantly reduce disease development the following year since they remove sources of the fungus that overwinter in the soil. During the growing season, it is important to start with healthy, disease-free transplants. If infected plants are found, . . .

original article => https://portal.ct.gov/CAES/Fact-Sheets/Plant-Pathology/Septoria-Leaf-Spot-of-Tomato

Always happy to help! If you see anything going on in my grows, I'm all ears like corn.

Update Time! Movin' on up!!

Ms. Purple is growing rapidly. So fast that i have noticed a slight color change so decided it was time to feed again. I added 50mil of CNS-17 to raise the PPM by approx. 25% (650 ppm total).

Ms. Yellow and Ms. Green are both doing so well I decided to move them to their future homes. I will be ordering two more drip-rings as those have proved useful and effective.

I dropped the rez ppm for ms. Green & ms. Yellow down to my starting zone of 250-300 ppm (290 currently) PH on both tanks is 6.0

The brown spots on ms. yellow are burn marks from my f'up. I did some cleanup in the cabinet early on and did not notice the water droplets from the spray bottle that landed on the lower leaves (actually they were the only leaves at the time). I probably would have gotten away with it had i not had the blurpurple light on ☹ . Each droplet acted like a magnifying glass.

Oh, the cleaning solutiion was 3% H2O2 (1tsp in 8oz of RO water).



p.s. "Tupac" is the ambient room sensor. Grow cabinet (home of ms. purple) is "DDRE" and the Flower cabinet (home of ms. yellow & ms. green) is "Biggie"

On another note...

I wanted to know when the watering timer that is feeding ms. purple was running. Opening the cabinet was not a reasonable option because every time you do; the RH, Temp etc change. So I found this little LED lite diddy that is usb powered. I plugeed it into the same timer as the feed ring pump, ran it out of one of the lower vent ports and attached it where it could be seen from my office. ==> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NXF8B7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I chose green for no particular reason.

Update time!!

First let me apologize for those following this thread for my absence. My employer was hit hard by a virus attack that nearly took us under so it has been a really long set of 18 to 30 hour days of total frustration and really focused work to save our Customers data and our infrastructure; but we did it Now we have to pickup the pieces, see how many cuts we have and which to fix first. The autopsy is going to be brutal. The offending url click was done over a year ago.

All of that to say up front, that my plants look like shit. But recoverable.

First off. Ms. Purple is NOT Auto-Train Wreck. I have no idea what it is; but at this point i know what it isn't! It go kinda toasty because i let the ppm get too high. It was around 920 ppm; way to hot for this stage of growth (thus the toasted leaves). I have reduced the ppm to 800 (which may still be too hot) and ensured the PH is closer to 6.2 than my normal 5.7. Hopefully this will help with the plants overall color. Right now it has that walking dead ashen look... zombie like chalk tint.

Ms. Green and Ms. Yellow are doing well. You would never know that these two seeds came from the same batch, germ'd at the same time and placed in RR on the same day. Other than that everything seems to be going well. The RR's seem to be holding up well.