NewGrowerer
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What other loads are on this panel? If that's it ( what you posted) then 100A is fine. If that's your house panel and you have a typical home and 100Amp is all you have then no way 100 amp will be enough The mini split requires a 50 amp breaker and that dehue will require a 30 amp.New room build. Need advise is the load can hols on my panel. Located in the US.
100 amp panel
Mini split : https://www.alpinehomeair.com/produ...zvbUMcfbNN_pC1VV2gpVNctPuwR06q7RoCTwEQAvD_BwE
8 gavita 1700e LED
Quest dehumidifier: https://www.questclimate.com/product/quest-876/
I need 8 120v plugs. Will have two trolmaster, a water pump, and an auto doser. (This should be no more than 15 amps breaker)
Lots of space then, you're good to go. Just make sure you use the right sized wires to run between panels. Its been a few years for me since I retired but I seem to remember a #2 for a 100Amp...House is 200amps.
This is a sub panel. It has 10 opens slots
Lots of space then, you're good to go. Just make sure you use the right sized wires to run between panels. Its been a few years for me since I retired but I seem to remember a #2 for a 100Amp...
Lots of space then, you're good to go. Just make sure you use the right sized wires to run between panels. Its been a few years for me since I retired but I seem to remember a #2 for a 100Amp...
a 20 amp breaker = 2000 watts to be safe add your lights wattage up. you can't go over 2000. again though you are now on a number 12 wire if you're coming straight out of the panel.How many Lights on a 20amp breaker should I do?
I had two different electrical guys tellcme diffent stuff. One said no and one said yes lol.
Ok now sure what the 1700e watts are added upa 20 amp breaker = 2000 watts to be safe add your lights wattage up. you can't go over 2000. again though you are now on a number 12 wire if you're coming straight out of the panel.
Somewhere on the label it should say actual wattage. I use hps 1000w simple math for meOk now sure what the 1700e watts are adde
There has to be, somewhere, marked on the lights the power that they draw. If not, it will for sure say how many watts each led draws, count your individual LEDs and multiply then add 10% to be safe. For example an old LED light would have say 80 LEDs in it and they would be drawing probably only three watts each (newer leds are up to ten watts each and bigger) so, 80x3=240, plus 24 (the ten percent) would be 264W. As for a standard fixture, 1000W HPS for example the bulb will draw 1000W but ballasts are on top of that…and they are usually around 100W. so 1100W. I should note that if you were able to do it and your lights are compatible it’s much better to run them on 220 V of power instead of the regular 110 current that you probably have. It’s cheaper to run that way…or no, there’s nothing cheap about electricity, it’s less expensive lol. Good luck, and remember if your buddy is getting jolted, don’t grab him and pull him away or both of u will end up downOk now sure what the 1700e watts are added up
The Gavita Pro 1700e runs at 645w at 100%. On a 120v circuit, it draws 5.3 amps. You can safely run up to 3 Gavita Pro 1700e on one 20 amp circuit. The third one pushes it if you go by 75% load max on the circuit.Ok now sure what the 1700e watts are added up
Cheaper? Voltage x amperage = wattage We pay by the KW 120 V X 15 amps = 220V x 7.5 amps = 1650 watts either wayThere has to be, somewhere, marked on the lights the power that they draw. If not, it will for sure say how many watts each led draws, count your individual LEDs and multiply then add 10% to be safe. For example an old LED light would have say 80 LEDs in it and they would be drawing probably only three watts each (newer leds are up to ten watts each and bigger) so, 80x3=240, plus 24 (the ten percent) would be 264W. As for a standard fixture, 1000W HPS for example the bulb will draw 1000W but ballasts are on top of that…and they are usually around 100W. so 1100W. I should note that if you were able to do it and your lights are compatible it’s much better to run them on 220 V of power instead of the regular 110 current that you probably have. It’s cheaper to run that way…or no, there’s nothing cheap about electricity, it’s less expensive lol. Good luck, and remember if your buddy is getting jolted, don’t grab him and pull him away or both of u will end up down
Good luck with your wiring!
Wattage is what you're billed on. 110 and 220/40 cost the same.Cheaper? Voltage x amperage = wattage We pay by the KW 120 V X 15 amps = 220V x 7.5 amps = 1650 watts either way
That’s what we thought too until we put a reader on the two different power sources to check it. the higher voltage actually read slightly cheaper to run. All we could come up with was maybe because of the heavier wire used for 240v there was fractionally less net loss from resistance as compared to smaller 120v wires….It wasn’t much, very tiny, but it did test less….I don’t know what to tell yaCheaper? Voltage x amperage = wattage We pay by the KW 120 V X 15 amps = 220V x 7.5 amps = 1650 watts either way
Sometimes it's more in how many digits the meter will read. For example, if your meter only reads to the .1, then using the 5.3amps @120v example and then moving to at 240v line, your meter is dropping the .01 column so again using the same light would read at 2.6 amps @240v instead of 2.65 amps. The math says it should be the same draw electrically, however there may be some real world factors that might vary it slightly like in what you're saying in your example above. At the end of the day, the draw is essentially the same, which is what @PipeCarver is trying to say.That’s what we thought too until we put a reader on the two different power sources to check it. the higher voltage actually read slightly cheaper to run. All we could come up with was maybe because of the heavier wire used for 240v there was fractionally less net loss from resistance as compared to smaller 120v wires….It wasn’t much, very tiny, but it did test less….I don’t know what to tell ya
Not sure if anyone’s done a load calc for you, but just looking at the two loads you’ve indicated you’ll be adding approx 64 amps at 240 volts to your total load, as we haven’t used 110/220 in the US since 1970… (ac and dehumidifier)…. Add 8 fixtures at 5 amps, is another 20 amps…leaving you very little for the rest of your whole house…just sayin.New room build. Need advise is the load can hols on my panel. Located in the US.
100 amp panel
Mini split : https://www.alpinehomeair.com/produ...zvbUMcfbNN_pC1VV2gpVNctPuwR06q7RoCTwEQAvD_BwE
8 gavita 1700e LED
Quest dehumidifier: https://www.questclimate.com/product/quest-876/
I need 8 120v plugs. Will have two trolmaster, a water pump, and an auto doser. (This should be no more than 15 amps breaker)
Yeah that's what I was figured. I would be at pretty much 100 amps just for the room. Leaving me 100 for the whole house.Not sure if anyone’s done a load calc for you, but just looking at the two loads you’ve indicated you’ll be adding approx 64 amps at 240 volts to your total load, as we haven’t used 110/220 in the US since 1970… (ac and dehumidifier)…. Add 8 fixtures at 5 amps, is another 20 amps…leaving you very little for the rest of your whole house…just sayin.
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