Any help would be appreciated

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Faelan

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Hey my cannabis friends.

My plant is about a month old, and something is definetly wrong. I have tried giving nutrients, i have tried flushing and replanting in new soil, and that is about everything i believe i can do, but it just keep getting worse.
I would love to hear your advice, and if you advice nutrients, i would love some n-p-k numbers, so i know what to look for, since nutrients for cannabis is pretty much impossible to get in my country.

Hope you can help.
Kind regards
 
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Faelan

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Ohh, and i almost forgot.
The ph-level of the soil is just under 7. I would guess 6.8.
The nutrients i have used is, n-p-k 2,3-0-5 mixed in the water and some slow release 5-2-5.
After i replanted and flushed, i used 4-2,2-5 mixed in the water.
I do not know the ph-level of the water, but have been watering with demineralised water.
 
cemchris

cemchris

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You need to pick one or the other. Hit them with nutes in a feed or use slow releases. Mixing them can have bad effects. It can be done but that's something you will learn with a little more seat time. I'm not a soil dude so hopefully someone will chime in on soil NPK's.

demineralised water.

From what i understand, same thing with RO, you never want to use pure distilled or RO through plants. Even when flushing. You always want something in it. If I remember what I read it has something to do with the interaction with calcium and osmotic pressure differences it can cause. Same reason why it will kill PH probes. This is out of my realm of understanding and maybe someone else can chime in with more of a chemistry background but I remember reading about this doing nute research. I could be totally quoting this wrong btw. Hopefully someone who knows wtf im talking about chimes in since it's in the morning hrs for me and i'm cross eye'd atm and I haven't used RO in years.

With that being said not knowing what the PH going in is would be something I nailed down first before I look to other sources of problems. Pool/Spa test kits can be bought t a lot of different stores for cheap and the little shake tests should be plenty for what u are doing.

Also replanting/repotting will shock the plant. Best thing to do when you do this is leave it alone for a couple days before trying to fix something. you don't want to immediately start trying to flush it and run nutes through it. Again I'm not a soil dude people with way more experience in that field then me.
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

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You need to pick one or the other. Hit them with nutes in a feed or use slow releases. Mixing them can have bad effects. It can be done but that's something you will learn with a little more seat time. I'm not a soil dude so hopefully someone will chime in on soil NPK's.



From what i understand, same thing with RO, you never want to use pure distilled or RO through plants. Even when flushing. You always want something in it. If I remember what I read it has something to do with the interaction with calcium and osmotic pressure differences it can cause. Same reason why it will kill PH probes. This is out of my realm of understanding and maybe someone else can chime in with more of a chemistry background but I remember reading about this doing nute research. I could be totally quoting this wrong btw. Hopefully someone who knows wtf im talking about chimes in since it's in the morning hrs for me and i'm cross eye'd atm and I haven't used RO in years.

With that being said not knowing what the PH going in is would be something I nailed down first before I look to other sources of problems. Pool/Spa test kits can be bought t a lot of different stores for cheap and the little shake tests should be plenty for what u are doing.

Also replanting/repotting will shock the plant. Best thing to do when you do this is leave it alone for a couple days before trying to fix something. you don't want to immediately start trying to flush it and run nutes through it. Again I'm not a soil dude people with way more experience in that field then me.
you might not think your a soil guy,but you nailed it right on the money chris,soil hydro soiless there all the same when it comes to plant picture and problems,OP have patience first off,the plant just dont zip up and you smoke it.
first off i cant tell if it is soil or coco,there are difrent methods of medias,first off do a slurry test if it is soil
next get a ph pen or strips,guessing what it is probally the biggest problem right off the bat,even other countries have ways of checking ph,i realize a lot of countries dont have ebay or amazon,but all countries have swimming pool company's.
next you replanting isnt doing anything but stressing the plant more,stop
flushing ,why,really why,you made a mistake with all the difrent nutes your using,as chris said choice one,flushing might be a good thing in coco,but soil it isnt,you wash any life from the pot and then have a mud cake,that goes anerobic,stop ,if you have a issue with your plant,dont feed ,just water the next trip,when you need to feed again go half what you used before that caused the issue. this is considered flushing in soil,not drenching,but just when you get runoff,it washing the unused salts from your pot.same with any soiless mix,that runoff is the minerals not used that why folk say 20% runoff,i dont do the 20%runoff cause i dont over feed,when i see runoff i stop,all that in the media has to come down to the runoff because of gravity,so there is your 20% in reality.
now you say you cant get nutes there i dig,so do teas,if nothing else compost earthworm castings manure combined make great food for you plants,put handful of each in a bucket with water let it sit in the sun a couple days and feed it,done you just feed your plants,with your nutes i asume they are dry amends,top scratch it into the soil once a week and water the other only,anyway biggest issues you have is not knowing your ph right off,your water or feed should be at 6.5 for the sweet spot,with correct ph going in you off to a great start and washing what isnt used out,hope this help
 
Migrower

Migrower

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As stated above. It’s burning up. And if you use r/o you need to add micros to it. I use it and realized that many people say you need cal mag. And you do. But only if your base nutes don’t incorporate it in the recipe. What is really important is your boron,iron,manganese,a lot of micros people don’t even know about without a decent background or been in cannabis a minute. Don’t use plain r/o to flush. Infact I don’t even flush. They key is to keep your plants in the optimal ppm range of each element at the time the plants need them. Feed feed water routines constantly confuse the plant. Changing metabolism rates and the growth process. This is a feed schedule for beginners I believe to try to be foolproof or close to,so a plant can’t be overfed do to inexperience.
 
35 years

35 years

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Flush and leave the damn thing alone for awhile,your burning it up.
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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As stated above. It’s burning up. And if you use r/o you need to add micros to it. I use it and realized that many people say you need cal mag. And you do. But only if your base nutes don’t incorporate it in the recipe. What is really important is your boron,iron,manganese,a lot of micros people don’t even know about without a decent background or been in cannabis a minute. Don’t use plain r/o to flush. Infact I don’t even flush. They key is to keep your plants in the optimal ppm range of each element at the time the plants need them. Feed feed water routines constantly confuse the plant. Changing metabolism rates and the growth process. This is a feed schedule for beginners I believe to try to be foolproof or close to,so a plant can’t be overfed do to inexperience.

I feed feed water, and so does most everyone I know personally that grows in soiless. And none of us are beginners by a long shot, but I also dont claim to know everything or be the best grower out there and I constantly strive to get better, so I listen, and read, and think a lot lol. When something makes sense, it just makes sense, and what you're saying makes sense. I've started to have thoughts about feeding lately which line up with what you're saying about keeping ppm consistent.

My "water" feed is never straight water but usually has a bit of calcium and a light dose of nutrient, less than .4ec total combined, but the same ratio.

As I currently feed at a rate of 1.3-1.4 ec in bloom, I assume you would recommend dialing that back to 0.8-1.0ec on a constant feed? If I give nutes every feeding at 1.3 I get build up and runoff ppm climbs without the water only feed.
Love these gold nuggets of brain food I find on this site..

Sorry dont mean to hijack the thread.. But I digress a lot lol.
 
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cemchris

cemchris

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I feed feed water, and so does most everyone I know personally that grows in soiless. And none of us are beginners by a long shot, but I also dont claim to know everything or be the best grower out there and I constantly strive to get better, so I listen, and read, and think a lot lol. When something makes sense, it just makes sense, and what you're saying makes sense. I've started to have thoughts about feeding lately which line up with what you're saying about keeping ppm consistent.

My "water" feed is never straight water but usually has a bit of calcium and a light dose of nutrient, less than .4ec total combined, but the same ratio.

As I currently feed at a rate of 1.3-1.4 ec in bloom, I assume you would recommend dialing that back to 0.8-1.0ec on a constant feed? If I give nutes every feeding at 1.3 I get build up and runoff ppm climbs without the water only feed.
Love these gold nuggets of brain food I find on this site..

I also never flush or run water through the plants till the last couple of days. Most of the time it's because I don't want to mix a whole new rez for a room I'm about to chop.

Usually when I see buildup that tells me to increase the waterings/volume (burnt tips or a def popping up). 95% of the time that cures what is effecting them unless I let it go for a while then I will just flip the timers on for about 4-5 mins with the same ppm feed. I have had better success with the same PPM over the whole course then different ratios at different times. Seems to not stack as much early flower but def catches up in the end weight wise vs different ratios at different times. Can always improve that but for me the improvement vs the work just isn't there for me along with my sanity.
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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I also never flush or run water through the plants till the last couple of days. Most of the time it's because I don't want to mix a whole new rez for a room I'm about to chop.

Usually when I see buildup that tells me to increase the waterings/volume (burnt tips or a def popping up). 95% of the time that cures what is effecting them unless I let it go for a while then I will just flip the timers on for about 4-5 mins with the same ppm feed. I have had better success with the same PPM over the whole course then different ratios at different times. Seems to not stack as much early flower but def catches up in the end weight wise vs different ratios at different times. Can always improve that but for me the improvement vs the work just isn't there for me along with my sanity.

For sure about the end flush in hydro or coco, I'm still yet to run an experiment feeding peat based soiless in the last week or two that results in a good burn, last time was a bit of a fail but I think that was more NPK ratio related than ppm rate, which I think is getting a bit confusing in this thread.

But you're already on to that one which probably explains why it works for you I think. As for feed rate through flower, not npk ratio but ppm feed rate, that I do fluctuate currently while keeping the npk ratio the same for the most part.
And I do water to about 10-20% runoff currently, but again without dropping ppm occasionally I get buildup. So it may be just as simple as dialing it back to a level where buildup doesnt occur or can otherwise be controlled with runoff. Because even with lots of runoff currently my ppm feed rate builds up otherwise. And truth be told I do struggle with some signs of overfeeding on some grows even when I feel I have the input/output ppm under control.
 
Jimster

Jimster

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Ditto... too much food. Plants require a very small amount of nutrients, and most manufacturers recommend doses that are much too high for smaller plants. The feeding requirements for a 8' outdoors tree and a smaller indoor plant are huge. It is like being on a cruise ship and eating at the buffet 3x daily and then getting bloodwork done... too much of a good thing isn't always good. RO water needs magnesium and calcium added, usually. I grow in Promix, which is considered soilless and don't need too much nutrients other than what I get from a general purpose 20-20-20 fertilizer and some compost/manure mixed in. The compost provides micronutrients as well as the major ones, and the generl 20-20-20 every 12-15 days (for my style of growing) keeps the levels high enough to keep the plant growing well, but without the high levels that can sometimes cause issues. There are a million ways to grow and all work well, just go easy on the nutrients and have patience and you will probably do well.
 
Migrower

Migrower

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For sure about the end flush in hydro or coco, I'm still yet to run an experiment feeding peat based soiless in the last week or two that results in a good burn, last time was a bit of a fail but I think that was more NPK ratio related than ppm rate, which I think is getting a bit confusing in this thread.

But you're already on to that one which probably explains why it works for you I think. As for feed rate through flower, not npk ratio but ppm feed rate, that I do fluctuate currently while keeping the npk ratio the same for the most part.
And I do water to about 10-20% runoff currently, but again without dropping ppm occasionally I get buildup. So it may be just as simple as dialing it back to a level where buildup doesnt occur or can otherwise be controlled with runoff. Because even with lots of runoff currently my ppm feed rate builds up otherwise. And truth be told I do struggle with some signs of overfeeding on some grows even when I feel I have the input/output ppm under control.

I also try to build up to a certain ppm in bloom and then go steady till the end also. The only time I dip in ppms is my semi flush where I drop them to about 500-550 or so and go till about 25% runoff. You may be getting buildup due to your nute line. That’s why I do a semi flush. I use gh salt based floranova base nutes and I also choose to do it for the reason of precaution. I just don’t want the drastic plain r/o water strip away All I’ve built with my bennies n so on


BTW I used to do the same thing water water feed till I learned better. Always be willing to learn.
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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Yeah, I've used everything from Ggold, 3 part, 2 part, floranova, H.O.G, Dyna gro and others, Currently using Botanicare pbp. Every one of them has led to toxic buildup if I feed 750ppm every watering. For me to not require a reduced strength feed every few waterings I'd have to feed around 500ppm every watering, or use coco or rockwool which has a much lower cec.

FWIW, I've been doing feed feed water for almost 25 years with no real issues, and usually excellent grows. I dont think reducing feed strength and feeding every time will be a cure all, nor do I think the feed feed water is really that bad unless you use pure RO or something, which is definitely bad.

Nevertheless, I do think a lower feed rate with fewer reduced strength feeds is on the agenda.
 
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Migrower

Migrower

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Yeah, I've used everything from Ggold, 3 part, 2 part, floranova, H.O.G, Dyna gro and others, Currently using Botanicare pbp. Every one of them has led to toxic buildup if I feed 750ppm every watering. For me to not require a reduced strength feed every few waterings I'd have to feed around 500ppm every watering, or use coco or rockwool which has a much lower cec.

FWIW, I've been doing feed feed water for almost 25 years with no real issues, and usually excellent grows. I dont think reducing feed strength and feeding every time will be a cure all, nor do I think the feed feed water is really that bad unless you use pure RO or something, which is definitely bad.

Nevertheless, I do think a lower feed rate with fewer reduced strength feeds is on the agenda.
I forgot your in soil bud sorry. I’m in plain peat. Gonna try coco due to the acidity level in the peat. Both cause their own environmental issues I suppose. But I wanna see the difference. And seems you’ve run through some nute brands. I’m about to switch to jacks salts. Ever used.
 
Jimster

Jimster

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I’m about to switch to jacks salts. Ever used.
I've used Peter's, now named Jack's (I think... they seem the same to me) and feed about every 2 weeks and haven't had any issues at all with nutrient burning or starving. I mix a tablespoon per gallon of water and feed the whole gallon if the plant is larger... I usually water a gallon to 1.5 gallons daily or every other day, depending on if the plant needs it. I grow in Promix with about 20% compost/manure mixed into it. It's about as simple and reliable as you can get.
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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I forgot your in soil bud sorry. I’m in plain peat. Gonna try coco due to the acidity level in the peat. Both cause their own environmental issues I suppose. But I wanna see the difference. And seems you’ve run through some nute brands. I’m about to switch to jacks salts. Ever used.

No, never used Jack's. I honestly havent seen it in Canada, but it could be around somewhere here I'm not sure.
And I'm actually not in soil, I use proterra which is pretty much exactly the same as promix.
 
Lord Bonkey

Lord Bonkey

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feed plain phed water(5.5 if you are at 7) with 30% plus run off and spray foliage with full nutes 2x a day
then in one week, feed full strength nutes and continue spraying until better.

ph your water to 6.2 going forward


thats what i would do anyway
 
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