Anybody Know Of A Reverse Cycle Timer For 220v?

[500lbs Guerilla]

I'm wiring the greenhouse exhaust fans to run on cycle timers. I'd like them to run briefly every hour during the winter to clear humidity but not bring in the frigid weather. I would also like the circulation fans to cut off during this time. Doing this on 220 would save me some valuable amps, as I only have about 20 available to this greenhouse and the fans max me out on 110.

So the dilemma is twofold. One is finding 220v cycle timers. The other is finding one that can run for the better part of an hour and then turn off for only a few minutes (opposite of what most cycle timers provide). Or if anybody is an electrician, if they could tell me if its possible to just take a cycle timer and just swap some wire around inside so it runs when its supposed to be off and off when its supposed to be on

 

[Seamaiden]

Bump!

 

[Herb Forester]

Just use 120v timers with 220 relays?

 

[homebrew420]

Use this, , super simple and very compact. I use thes to power 4 1000w lamps at 208/240. Cheap too.

Peace

 

[500lbs Guerilla]

Pulled apart an old Art-DNe cycle timer. I'm going to play with the relay inside tonight to see if I can't swap its on time for off time etc.
This is the relay inside the timer. Single Pole Double Throw.

Use this, , super simple and very compact. I use thes to power 4 1000w lamps at 208/240. Cheap too.

Peace

What would be the difference between using a relay like the one in your link and a 2 pole contactor like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Volt/dp/B001KGSJ74

Sorry, I'm pretty new experimenting with relays

 

[500lbs Guerilla]

Another thought too - I have a couple extra MLC 4x lighting controllers in the garage somewhere. Could I wire my ventilation to plug in to the lighting controller? I'm guessing the internals of the MLC are similar to what I want to make, and a 110V trigger cable is already built in...

 

[500lbs Guerilla]

So the cycle timer was easy. Opened it up and looked at the relay. The black hot wire went into the relay and right back out into the timer's control board. Looking at the diagram on the relay, they were in the normally open part of the relay (terminals 3 and 4). I just swapped those to the normally closed part of the relay (terminals 1 and 2) and voila: cycle timer is reversed.
I know it was probably an obvious solution, but like I said, I'm new to playing with relays.

 

[homebrew420]

Pulled apart an old Art-DNe cycle timer. I'm going to play with the relay inside tonight to see if I can't swap its on time for off time etc.
This is the relay inside the timer. Single Pole Double Throw.






What would be the difference between using a relay like the one in your link and a 2 pole contactor like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Volt/dp/B001KGSJ74

Sorry, I'm pretty new experimenting with relays

Shoot That is cheaper. I am not familiar with the brand. And that is the only reason for using. Have had good experience them.
The relay you posted looks very similar to the ones I used to use until I found the one I posted.

Nice work btw

 

[Desertboy]

Whatever works BUT for future reference this can be done with a HY3-2 Time delay relay by Omron which is is a standard DPDT relay but with a built in and adjustable time delay.

They come in 12v, 24v, 110v & 220v versions and you can get different time delays I use 0-60mins these would replace the need for a seperate timer.

the wiring is easy most DPDT will be

13 & 14 are the switching input
9&12 are the live inputes to switch
5&8 are NC contacts
1&4 the NO contacts

I might have confused the NO and NC contacts but it's so easy to check and the daigram on the side of the relay should make it all clear.

 

[Canalchemist]

I used one of those for a DIY Ozone Generator, was the only timer that I could find that was so versatile, on three minutes every hour, I have since lost it but I did love it.

 

[Canalchemist]

I'm wiring the greenhouse exhaust fans to run on cycle timers. I'd like them to run briefly every hour during the winter to clear humidity but not bring in the frigid weather. I would also like the circulation fans to cut off during this time. Doing this on 220 would save me some valuable amps, as I only have about 20 available to this greenhouse and the fans max me out on 110.

So the dilemma is twofold. One is finding 220v cycle timers. The other is finding one that can run for the better part of an hour and then turn off for only a few minutes (opposite of what most cycle timers provide). Or if anybody is an electrician, if they could tell me if its possible to just take a cycle timer and just swap some wire around inside so it runs when its supposed to be off and off when its supposed to be on

I am sure you thought about a humidistat.

 

[Desertboy]

It would be relatively easy to add a humidistat
1&4 are the NC, 5&8 are the NO contacts now I checked my relays.
If you use a mechanical humistat it will switch only the live and neutral is not needed an electrical one will need both live and neutral.

One thing to bear in mind if you want to use a H3Y-2 time delay relay 220v core running it at 60hz will cause the timer to tick 20% faster so you would have to adjust the delay to suit but I have found the timers are inaccurate on the relays anyway but consistently inaccurate :)

They're adjustable so really take what it says on the dial with a pinch of salt and check with a stopwatch to dial in the correct timings.

If you want to have the circulation fan run 55 mins on, then swap for extract for 5 mins AND be overridden by a Humidistat that wants 2 relays but is simple enough.

 

[Canalchemist]

That was exactly what I was thinking when you wrote the post, the thinking is why run the fan if the humidity is fine, this way the humidistat will run your cycle timer as long as the humidity is over the set point you determine, otherwise it does not run.

 

[500lbs Guerilla]

I am sure you thought about a humidistat.

I was worried about running a dehumidistat in the winter because the evenings have often been dipping below freezing. I felt like a dehumidistat would run too often in the evenings and I'd burn up all my propane keeping the place warm. So for now I think a cycle timer is adequate until later in flower when I won't mind burning up propane to keep things more dry for a couple weeks. Plants are still in veg at the moment so small spikes in humidity haven't caused any issues. Ladies are large n healthy

I do like the idea of the omron timed relay and being able to hook everything up to that. I'm looking into that too. Might be good to just wire in the humidistat for later..

That was exactly what I was thinking when you wrote the post, the thinking is why run the fan if the humidity is fine, this way the humidistat will run your cycle timer as long as the humidity is over the set point you determine, otherwise it does not run.

I'd like the fan to run on occasion during the day for enough air exchange to keep co2 flowing. I do usually manually turn off the ventilation if weather is good enough to roll up my sidewalls. In the evening the humidity is usually high, but if it wasn't I'd probably still want some air exchange so the heater doesn't suffocate. Probably not necessary since the greenhouse isn't super sealed, but I'd rather account for it than risk having the heater choke and the plants experience a frost.

 

[Canalchemist]

Propane will produce a lot of moisture, it's almost like your permitting the situation your trying to mitigate. Do you have an old swamp cooler around ?

 

[Desertboy]

Bottled co2 is always better than propane in the correctly setup room BUT propane is a hell of a lot cheaper if you factor in dehumifier it's still generally cheaper to run.

Which sucks really we're trying to reduce emissions yet bottled co2 is more expensive than burning propane to make co2 lol.

If you look on aliexpress you'll find omron HY3-2 220v coil 0-60min for <$5 delivered to the US I ordered a 100 recently and have to say they're very good although the timers are not calibrated particularly accurately.

High humidity until the heavy bud formation is a good thing then it becomes the enemy.

 

[500lbs Guerilla]

The propane isn't to supply co2, it's to supply heat. I'm raising temps not only to keep plants from freezing, but also to increase moisture holding capacity of the air so that the humidity can be exhausted out instead of becoming condensation or worse, ice. I do have a pheonix max 200 dehumidifier. It does help a little, but I only have one and multiple greenhouses. And in the case of this particular greenhouse, I have to consider amperage.

The heater is a power vented modine so I think it spits all the co, co2, and excess humidity out the vent anyway.

I've never used a swampcooler. Can I use it to generate heat too? Because that would be awesome.

 

[Canalchemist]

I was thinking the swamp cooler could act as your dehumidifier but damn I am trying to imagine a way that wouldn't be so damn expensive, how big is the greenhouse?

 

[Canalchemist]

If I had a cold water source, I would find a AC coil and crimp hose fittings to it, Like a very large evaporator from a residential unit, gut everything but the fan, run equal lengths suction and discharge to balance the head pressure and use a small pump to circulate water through the evaporator, Wire a speed controller in series with the fan to adjust the airflow till you get condensation on the coils. That would be my DIY solution and all the parts can be salvaged from cheap junk. I the woman don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.