Anyone help figure this out

[raybuck]

What happening here? Root rot? Septoria? Nutrient pH issues?
I repotted in case it's root rot.

 

[Bdubs]

Phosphorus deficiency.

Root rot will fight the buffers and lower Ph.

Overwater or underwater will exacerbate root stress or cause root rot.

Twisted odd new growth is heat or Ph.

Suspect Ph or nutrient lockout due to water logging/overwatering.

Suggestion: After transplants, only water the outter parameter and not the center area that you transplanted. Allow the old to dry back a bit more and stimulate roots to grow out for more water.

But man, we need a lot more info to assist my friend. This looks like progressive Phosphorus deficiency due to Ph out of balance or soil too moist and edging root rot.

Look for reduced finger count on new growth, as well as leaf tip curl as that will signal root rot.

 

[Bdubs]

But this is due to a nutrient lockout no doubt.

 

[Bdubs]

I would not adjust feed at all. This is not an issue about not having enough in the soil, but other factors preventing the uptake. Meaning the Phosphorus is there and available, but she is ignoring it and accumulating from the rejection. In turn, causing full lockout. If coupled with yellowing leafs you can firmly say she is ignoring Nitrogen as well, full lockout as multiple nutrient signals are presenting. Eventually with this condition, nutrient salts (if using liquid nutrients) are clogging the root system or water logging is strangling the roots. In both situations, constricting the root system and prevents uptake. Whether it’s drowning the roots or nutrient salts dehydrating them, it is causing the lockout. If root rot is present due to root burn from nutrient salt buildup, or lack of oxygen to roots, roots die. Bacterias grow and steal oxygen from roots and further exacerbates root rot. So overwatering becomes the #1 culprit to lockout in soil. As buffers help keep most everything else in check or in range for you. Overwatering and water logging is very easy to do. Soil is slow compared to other direct methods of growing. Therefore you must water correctly and to do so, means you won’t be watering on a schedule, you will go by feel. If watering on a schedule, you’ll surly miss the times when she isn’t drinking as much due to environmental factors and overwater, then she remains overwatered as you stay on a timed based schedule. (Dry air or low humidity will also force roots/tax roots to do the drinking. Therefore increase nutrient uptake in overabundance, lockout as too much nutrients unwanted block the passages). All boiling down to root burn and dying roots, which create bad bacteria that feeds off oxygen, stealing oxygen from the roots. Progressive.

In the event that root rot is present and you wish to continue -The use of beneficial microbes and bacterias will assist in fending off rot to push to finish line if it is present and extra work and care to check Ph and PPm of runoff may be needed to stay on top of keeping her “healthy” to produce. Perfect watering habits need to be performed in this situation of progressive root rot to keep her growing to produce and make it to harvest window.
Either stop feeding nutrients for 2 feeds or substantially reduce the nutrients in your feed water. Once she unlocks (if not from rot) you can resume normal feed with proper watering habits. If you are root rotting, beneficial bacteria can assist in breaking down the dead root matter and turn it into available nutrients the plant can eat while also fending off the progression of it.

The key takeaway, reduce watering. Water the outside parameter. Wait. Do not overwater. Avoid too much water at the base of the plant, very minimal if possible. If using nutrients reduce or skip Feeding during waterings until she rebounds. It won’t be fast, you may need 2 weeks to see results as soil is slow to recover when mistakes or stress is present. Pick your corrective action wisely and don’t make major adjustments, try to make the correct judgement and do it, wait for results.

The only way to keep tabs on the deficiency is to remove all affected signaling leafs and keep removing them as time goes. It won’t be immediate. You are looking for a reduction of the rate at which the leaf’s dry and show deficiency burn.

 

[Bdubs]

First signs of Phosphorus looks like this. Ph was low side 5.5-5.6 for 3-4 days. Noticing the dark green leafs, nitrogen in plethora as depicted by the Ph range with Nitrogen more available. No lockout to consider as yellowing is nowhere to be seen. Therefore a Ph adjustment to 6.0-6.2 corrected it and stopped any progression any further than spots. Handled within 2 days of seeing the signal.

You most likely have a complete lockout as your crisping, Phosphorus deficient, and slight yellowing so she is using stored nitrogen and not getting from roots.

Too wet most likely. Dry back good.

 

[Bdubs]

Your VPD has a lot to do with Nutrient overabundance triggered lockout. If you run super low humidity and have nutrients in over abundance in the soil, your plant forcibly uptakes ALL nutrients and leaves behind the rest it doesn’t need, causing a lockout from too much of one thing that she didn’t need.

So there are multiple answers to all this and all info needs analyzed to find out what your dealing with.

 

[Bdubs]

overwatering is the correct diagnosis assuming everything else is in an optimal range.

 

[raybuck]

Thanks all, it was definitely nutrient lock. I repotted, watered sparingly and they are thriving now