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Anyone with Expertise in water analysis?

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Anyone with Expertise in water analysis?

Cbdfool 34 Replies 3,339 Views
Page 2 of 2 · Replies 21–35 of 35
#21
Yeah stretch down heavily and then maybe use epsom, calnit or calmag or a combination of these to get Ca to Mg right, and S will follow to, at least, be more than Cl. Would require to know Ca Mg levels. Well-water could have high unwanted iron-3 in it...
Then pH- to stability and there is your good plant water
 
#22
Aqua Man said:
Yup i was way off under 70 and he is at 70 but could still easy pull it off imo when done 75/25
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I honestly don't no what the updated exceptable levels are, the studies I remember was at 20- 30ppm was enough to cause havoc, and to much for a lot of plant types, so in my circles anything close to 20 was to much, so from my point of view and it just my opinion even if you cut down to a 1/4 thats 18ppm of choride and if it has sodium which can be very prevalent in well water depending on where you live, and Iron etc. so if your cutting it down to 1/4 and stil have a bunch of stuff in it ( and thats really question what else is in it,) you might as well go straight RO and at least no what you have.
 
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#23
Dr.Green55 said:
I honestly don't no what the updated exceptable levels are, the studies I remember was at 20- 30ppm was enough to cause havoc, and to much for a lot of plant types, so in my circles anything close to 20 was to much, so from my point of view and it just my opinion even if you cut down to a 1/4 thats 18ppm of choride and if it has sodium which can be very prevalent in well water depending on where you live, and Iron etc. so if your cutting it down to 1/4 and stil have a bunch of stuff in it ( and thats really question what else is in it,) you might as well go straight RO and at least no what you have.
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Thank for taking the time to explain, much appreciated.

i know sodium over 20ppm is yeah not friendly. I always thought chloride was much more forgiving. Then again it depends on the what the chloride is attached to big difference between potassium chloride which can be beneficial and sodium chloride that you cringe at
 
#25
its not that Chloride is toxic, I can be foliar sprayed fairly heavily with no issues, ie for blossom rot, but in the root zone it effects the uptake of N and P thats where the issues are.
 
#26
Cbdfool said:
Will this cause issues with growth or burn. It’s well water.
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My well water is crazy high in iron and high alkaline ph also. I always have issues using it even when I dilute it with ro water. Always got lockout using it. Switched to rain water when I can and ro water. Haven't had an issue since
 
#27
Dr.Green55 said:
its not that Chloride is toxic, I can be foliar sprayed fairly heavily with no issues, ie for blossom rot, but in the root zone it effects the uptake of N and P thats where the issues are.
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same with Na, it's just not needed and without it, ion uptake is more simple for the plant ie. less salt stress at high fertilizer charge
 
#28
@Dr.Green55 is correct about Cl and Na. Both should be avoided in the roots unless the concentration is reasonably low in tap water. Such as, less than 40ppm for chloride and less than 25ppm for Na.

A total of 525ppm is way too high to use for growing weed reliably. OP needs to buy an RO system or he will have a hard time controlling pH and will likely get nute lockout. Tap water that is above 150ppm total is a good candidate for RO. If above 250ppm, it is pretty much mandatory to use RO. At 525ppm, it's absolutely neccesary.
 
#29
Aqua Man said:
Hey brother, just curious on the chloride levels. I aleays thought under say 150ppm was no issue. But i could be wrong

I dont think sodium though its well water. By the sulfur content i think it’s a safe bet its limestone Ca carbonate and Mg Sulfate and if a softener was on the system that wouldnt be there afaik. Thats why i presented the option.
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Lots of limestone and no softener
 
#31
Humblehippie.420 said:
My well water is crazy high in iron and high alkaline ph also. I always have issues using it even when I dilute it with ro water. Always got lockout using it. Switched to rain water when I can and ro water. Haven't had an issue since
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I have a well and it's also very high straight out of the ground around 850 ppm ph 8.5, I have a holding tank that i pump too and the solids settle to the bottom over time and it cuts the dissolved solids ppm to 1/2 and have a pump about 5 feet down in it so it grabs the cleanest. I keep rain barrels in my garage.
 
#33
PerfecTrader said:
Right? Tap here in Scottsdale is 7.45ph, 970cond, 641tds. If you melt tap water ice here you can see a ridiculous amount of shit in the water
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I bought a cple big blue household filters and they do a good job, one is dissolved solids and the other has a charcoal element. Expensive but it cuts it down to less than 300,saves the taps and washing machine
 
#34
Buzzzz said:
I bought a cple big blue household filters and they do a good job, one is dissolved solids and the other has a charcoal element. Expensive but it cuts it down to less than 300,saves the taps and washing machine
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Nice work. I have an RO system and it come out 5.5ph and 50ish tds and a 3rd option is store bought water I buy. Have 7 x 5gals and that water comes out 6.15 and 15ish tds. I've had to use them in various combinations to help with PH but am hoping I have it sorted out meow
 
#35
I was having the same problems when I hooked up my fresh water drip system in my cichlid aquariums. I was flowing fresh tap water into the system everyday but yet every time I tested for chlorides they were coming up hot. Come to find out the city adds a base amount of those chlorides in there so this is why it wasn't going away. I purchased a relatively inexpensive chloride filter kit on ebay. Trickle the water through that first so now it comes out out clean no chloride and happy fish. Also happy plants I use fish tank water for growing too. 👌
 
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