I spoke with someone from autopot. We determined that the pot may just have a bit to much Hydroton in the bottom. He instructed me to remove the tops on the float inside the aquavalve and add weights . I added 3 pennies in each side. This causes the water to rise higher. If you do add weights don’t add more than 3 pennies into each side of the float. I’m in the brink of an overflow. Seems to be drinking againDid you figure out why one of your autopots wasn't wicking water in through the hydroton you used to cover the bottoms of the pots?
https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/calling-all-autopot-users.105463/#post-2276583
I believe Rdub, is using the air domes in the bottom of each autopot as there is an air pump inside the tent. I bet it's running hot also as mine was before I extended the air lines and used my own air pump outside of my tent.
A little late to the party, but I concur. The pics show symptoms of overwatering and overfeeding. The overwatering symptoms really mean inadequate oxygen, yes, oxygen to the roots. I am not familiar with the autopot system, but I will conjecture that the roots are always wet, in un-oxygenated water, which is harsh on the root hairs. The plant loses ability to take in water, and what water it does taken in is heavily laden with nutes, which, because the water intake is low, causes high solution concentration in the plant --> over feeding/burn. It's a guess, but that's all fact based.
Is it possible to add an airstone to the pot, so that the solution is oxygenated? Most hydro growers, including me, use aquarium pumps and a big airstone to each pot. I would reduce the nutes to 60% of where you're at, and add air. A pump and stone won't cost $40. You might also consider adding hydroguard to the solution, which adds beneficial bateria to combat root rot, which might also be happening, again because of the air situation.
My two cents. I've been growing hydro since about 1978.
[Edit] . I see you're doing better, but I still recommend adding air and hydroguard.
I do recommend the air pump be outside the tent and perhaps longer lines to air domes.I am running airdomes inside each pot as bloodshot mentioned. Blood do you recommend putting in some connectors and bringing that pump outside the tent it is about 6 degrees cooler
No, but some may.Oh I forgot to mention that my air stones turn off with lights out. Thought I had read that in a few places but never really made sense to me. You recommend keeping that air on 24/7?
Keep me informed.No, but some may.
I am going to run a couple pots with air domes and a couple without next run to see what difference the added air makes in overall development.
Good looking out jimster. The inside of the float where the penny was placed doesn’t have water inside of it. I’ll keep my eye on it though and make sure it continues to stay dryTwo things on this thread I want to address, nothing major. The first is regarding concentrated nute solutions. With most nutrients being a salt form of the base nutrient, too much can make things "salty". When you have salty water, it actually draws the water out of the plant, opposite of what it normally does. This is what makes the plant look wilted or burned if extreme.
The 2nd topic was regarding the use of pennies for weights. Copper is very toxic to plants... they use copper based paint to keep algae and stuff from growing on ships. I'd be a little nervous about using copper in a water system, especially if it has an acidic solution, which would help to dissolve the copper into the solution. I don't know if it would be enough to harm the plants, but just a heads up.
I don't use hydro and I have no idea of what the different parts of the system are, but I thought the pennies might somehow soak in the water. Sorry for the false alarm!! :)Good looking out jimster. The inside of the float where the penny was placed doesn’t have water inside of it. I’ll keep my eye on it though and make sure it continues to stay dry
No it will not affect ppms in any noticeable fashion..I ordered some hydrogaurd I’ll keep the peroxide for cleaning. I hate that stuff anyway it was always bleaching my hands white. Will hydrogaurd contribute any significance to my ppms? Also should I just go label strength on it?
I took my air off the timer last night so that’s covered and just to clarify 600 ppms for veg I’m not in flower yet@Rdub I'd aim for about 600ppm of nutes, on top of whatever ppm your water is. Hydroguard, no peroxide. Hydroguard is a culture, just a teaspoon is all you need, the bacteria will grow from there. Run air 24/7.
@OldManRiver makes a good point. Don't mix the hydro gaurd into your solution mix up in a gallon or 2 of Distilled water not tap or RO with hydro gaurd. Then pour over the medium. This will seed the medium and not waste it in the solution.@Rdub I'd aim for about 600ppm of nutes, on top of whatever ppm your water is. Hydroguard, no peroxide. Hydroguard is a culture, just a teaspoon is all you need, the bacteria will grow from there. Run air 24/7.
Would there be any harm in just adding it to the res for a week?@OldManRiver makes a good point. Don't mix the hydro gaurd into your solution mix up in a gallon or 2 of Distilled water not tap or RO with hydro gaurd. Then pour over the medium. This will seed the medium and not waste it in the solution.
In RDWC and DWC I would dose the solution.
Nope you can if you like but that strain of bacteria don't do as well in a solution as they do in a substrate. That's why if you have a substrate you have an advantage when using it. In something like DWC you need to continually add. It will reproduce in substrate and you can reduce the amount you use it. In only an aqueous solution it doesn't do as well so it needs added more frequently.Would there be any harm in just adding it to the res for a week?
The kit "to my knowledge" normally doesn't come with added air domes, unless you purchase the full kit. They were an addition so are they actually required in this autopot system to run 24/7 or at all and what I wonder would be the difference in growth between the two is why I will run some with and without next run.Airstones need to run 24/7 and moving the pump outside is a good idea.
Hydrogaurd is a great product for preventing and treating root rot. But so not use it with hydrogen peroxide. It will kill it.
Either go sterile and treat every 3days with h202 or other. Or go live and use hydrogaurd as directed.
Probably not.... Intervals would be better than lights on and off but 24/7 takes all the guess work out. It's a tiny wattage.The kit "to my knowledge" normally doesn't come with added air domes, unless you purchase the full kit. They were an addition so are they actually required in this autopot system to run 24/7 or at all and what I wonder would be the difference in growth between the two is why I will run some with and without next run.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?