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At least a hundred buds - but all tiny! Help!

  • Thread starter Thread starter AthelR
  • Start date Start date Dec 18, 2020
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At least a hundred buds - but all tiny! Help!

AthelR Dec 18, 2020 24 Replies 2,425 Views
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AthelR

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#1
We’ve grown this plant from a second generation seed saved from an autoflowering plant.
we’ve got lots of tiny buds but they’re not growing. Is it too late to get a good yield from this plant?
If not, is it the seed, or did we give it too much nitrogen? None of the white tendrils are turning brown yet but there are no trichomes either.

Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks!
 

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Chester13

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#2
What week of flowering are you in? Looks like week 2 maybe. Hair doesn't change for along time and you won't get trichoms this early in flower.
 
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One drop

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#3
Just let her chill and get her fanny into gear ... can I say fanny on here ... I just did twice ..... Od
 
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Moshmen

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#4
What was the dad? Autos are difficult to get the genes passed along very rarely does it happen your first try - if you can treat it like a photoperiod and flip to 12/12 light schedule to help promote flowering
 
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AthelR

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#5
Hi Moshmen
That’s a really interesting suggestion! We seem to have lots of buds, so it is about growing them larger. Will the 12/12 light pattern help them grow? But I see your point - it may no longer be a 70-day growth cycle, and what we’re looking at is a plant that still has some time to grow.
 
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AthelR

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#6
Moshmen said:
What was the dad? Autos are difficult to get the genes passed along very rarely does it happen your first try - if you can treat it like a photoperiod and flip to 12/12 light schedule to help promote flowering
Click to expand...
Ps it self-fertilised...
 
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AthelR

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#7
Chester13 said:
What week of flowering are you in? Looks like week 2 maybe. Hair doesn't change for along time and you won't get trichoms this early in flower.
Click to expand...
Yes I would say week two. Perhaps we just need to be patient. Thanks!
 
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AthelR

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#8
I’m going to try flushing the soil through in case the roots are struggling to absorb nutrient.
 
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Moshmen

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#9
I’ve had some autos go 90 even 100 days! Just like they’re photo cousins longer is better imo. I think she looks ok , I would not flush completely, maybe just water no nutes ur next watering? Stay the course be patient and flip if needed .

Self pollination from hermie naners are bad in most growers opinions. Not the genetics that are desirable hopefully this one won’t herm on ya.
 
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mysticepipedon

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#10
AthelR said:
Hi Moshmen
That’s a really interesting suggestion! We seem to have lots of buds, so it is about growing them larger. Will the 12/12 light pattern help them grow? But I see your point - it may no longer be a 70-day growth cycle, and what we’re looking at is a plant that still has some time to grow.
Click to expand...

I've never grown an auto myself, but I was reading the thread of a guy who breeds his own autos (on another forum), and he says it's a recessive trait. So it is very likely that it's got photo period tendencies. This plant kind of looks like the clone of a female plant that is just bursting to go into flower.

AthelR said:
I’m going to try flushing the soil through in case the roots are struggling to absorb nutrient.
Click to expand...

The plant looks healthy. Looks like a touch of nute burn and a touch too much N in the first pic, but you can just adjust the next time you feed.
 
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Backyard_Boogie

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#11
Moshmen said:
What was the dad? Autos are difficult to get the genes passed along very rarely does it happen your first try - if you can treat it like a photoperiod and flip to 12/12 light schedule to help promote flowering
Click to expand...
Hi fellas I have done some auto breeding in the past and I have grown out hundreds of auto specimens over the years. Im definitely not a top tier professional breeder but Im definitely no rookie either. What I will tell you from my experience is this... If this is truly an auto-flower with ruderalis dominant genetics you should NOT turn the flower cycle to 12/12 it will actually slow down the process instead of speed it up. Autos need a minimum of 18 hours light or the buds come out weak and fluffy. Yes, it is true that sometimes a breeder can make a mistake and ship out regular photoperiod seeds. If by week 5 or 6 the plant shows absolutely no signs of pistols then that is when you need to flip 12/12. In your case Im pretty sure the plant is a true auto because it started pushing pistols all on its one without changing the light cycle.

Roughly how many weeks in from germination are you right now? It is very possible that your strain is a slower growing auto. These types of autos are more commonly referred to as "Super Autos". Without getting too deep into it basically a Super Auto has all of the same characteristics as a regular auto only difference is the automatic flowering process takes longer. When Im running autos outsides the regular autos can take 90-100 days. When I run a super auto it can take 125+.

Also what types of light you running? Do you have a light meeter? What is the LUX reading at the top of your canopy? If I had to guess I would say this is simply a combination of a slower than usual auto-flower strain accompanied by a light thats not quite strong enough. I doubt it is Nitrogen burn because yes... the tips are a bit burnt but the leaves are NOT flushed dark green. Almost always Nitrogen burn will be accompanied with super dark green leaves. Your leaves seem to be healthy...

If I were you I would focus on this. More light. More time. More Nutrients (If she can take it without burning). Ease back into this last one after the first two are addressed. Hope this helps. Peace. ✌
 
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kaka

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#12
stigmas not tendrils
 
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AthelR

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#13
Moshmen said:
I’ve had some autos go 90 even 100 days! Just like they’re photo cousins longer is better imo. I think she looks ok , I would not flush completely, maybe just water no nutes ur next watering? Stay the course be patient and flip if needed .

Self pollination from hermie naners are bad in most growers opinions. Not the genetics that are desirable hopefully this one won’t herm on ya.
Click to expand...
That’s reassuring Moshmen. They do seem still ‘young’. I’m sure that genetically, you can’t keep going generation after generation with hermies. We will follow your advice on watering. I think something just clicked into place about that!
I hope we get a nice yield. Would you give high potassium nutrient at all, and if you don’t mind me asking another question, would you use a UV-B lamp to increase yield?
 
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AthelR

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#14
Backyard_Boogie said:
Hi fellas I have done some auto breeding in the past and I have grown out hundreds of auto specimens over the years. Im definitely not a top tier professional breeder but Im definitely no rookie either. What I will tell you from my experience is this... If this is truly an auto-flower with ruderalis dominant genetics you should NOT turn the flower cycle to 12/12 it will actually slow down the process instead of speed it up. Autos need a minimum of 18 hours light or the buds come out weak and fluffy. Yes, it is true that sometimes a breeder can make a mistake and ship out regular photoperiod seeds. If by week 5 or 6 the plant shows absolutely no signs of pistols then that is when you need to flip 12/12. In your case Im pretty sure the plant is a true auto because it started pushing pistols all on its one without changing the light cycle.

Roughly how many weeks in from germination are you right now? It is very possible that your strain is a slower growing auto. These types of autos are more commonly referred to as "Super Autos". Without getting too deep into it basically a Super Auto has all of the same characteristics as a regular auto only difference is the automatic flowering process takes longer. When Im running autos outsides the regular autos can take 90-100 days. When I run a super auto it can take 125+.

Also what types of light you running? Do you have a light meeter? What is the LUX reading at the top of your canopy? If I had to guess I would say this is simply a combination of a slower than usual auto-flower strain accompanied by a light thats not quite strong enough. I doubt it is Nitrogen burn because yes... the tips are a bit burnt but the leaves are NOT flushed dark green. Almost always Nitrogen burn will be accompanied with super dark green leaves. Your leaves seem to be healthy...

If I were you I would focus on this. More light. More time. More Nutrients (If she can take it without burning). Ease back into this last one after the first two are addressed. Hope this helps. Peace. ✌
Click to expand...
Much appreciated
 
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AthelR

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#15
Backyard_Boogie said:
Hi fellas I have done some auto breeding in the past and I have grown out hundreds of auto specimens over the years. Im definitely not a top tier professional breeder but Im definitely no rookie either. What I will tell you from my experience is this... If this is truly an auto-flower with ruderalis dominant genetics you should NOT turn the flower cycle to 12/12 it will actually slow down the process instead of speed it up. Autos need a minimum of 18 hours light or the buds come out weak and fluffy. Yes, it is true that sometimes a breeder can make a mistake and ship out regular photoperiod seeds. If by week 5 or 6 the plant shows absolutely no signs of pistols then that is when you need to flip 12/12. In your case Im pretty sure the plant is a true auto because it started pushing pistols all on its one without changing the light cycle.

Roughly how many weeks in from germination are you right now? It is very possible that your strain is a slower growing auto. These types of autos are more commonly referred to as "Super Autos". Without getting too deep into it basically a Super Auto has all of the same characteristics as a regular auto only difference is the automatic flowering process takes longer. When Im running autos outsides the regular autos can take 90-100 days. When I run a super auto it can take 125+.

Also what types of light you running? Do you have a light meeter? What is the LUX reading at the top of your canopy? If I had to guess I would say this is simply a combination of a slower than usual auto-flower strain accompanied by a light thats not quite strong enough. I doubt it is Nitrogen burn because yes... the tips are a bit burnt but the leaves are NOT flushed dark green. Almost always Nitrogen burn will be accompanied with super dark green leaves. Your leaves seem to be healthy...

If I were you I would focus on this. More light. More time. More Nutrients (If she can take it without burning). Ease back into this last one after the first two are addressed. Hope this helps. Peace. ✌
Click to expand...
We have a plan for increasing the light. If it works, I’ll post it here...
 
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the rrock

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#16
patience is the key for growing anything>GL
 
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growsince79

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#17
AthelR said:
We’ve grown this plant from a second generation seed saved from an autoflowering plant.
we’ve got lots of tiny buds but they’re not growing. Is it too late to get a good yield from this plant?
If not, is it the seed, or did we give it too much nitrogen? None of the white tendrils are turning brown yet but there are no trichomes either.

Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Too much N delays flowering.
 
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Moshmen

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#18
AthelR said:
That’s reassuring Moshmen. They do seem still ‘young’. I’m sure that genetically, you can’t keep going generation after generation with hermies. We will follow your advice on watering. I think something just clicked into place about that!
I hope we get a nice yield. Would you give high potassium nutrient at all, and if you don’t mind me asking another question, would you use a UV-B lamp to increase yield?
Click to expand...
Personally I would cut back the N a little bit and add more P&K but I am far from a expert on nutrients, I do no supplement UV there is much discussion and how much and when to apply there are guys out there that swear by it, I personally hold my autos back on size/yield a bit as I like the variety more than quantity- I do run autos right along side photos on 12/12 does it slow them down? I guess I can’t really answer that, I again get the results I’m lookin for which is 2-3 ounces per plant.
 
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AthelR

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#19
Moshmen said:
Personally I would cut back the N a little bit and add more P&K but I am far from a expert on nutrients, I do no supplement UV there is much discussion and how much and when to apply there are guys out there that swear by it, I personally hold my autos back on size/yield a bit as I like the variety more than quantity- I do run autos right along side photos on 12/12 does it slow them down? I guess I can’t really answer that, I again get the results I’m lookin for which is 2-3 ounces per plant.
Click to expand...
The best we’ve done is an ounce... but we’re only on our fourth growing cycle.
 
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Backyard_Boogie

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#20
Im nearly certain guys that this is NOT a Nitrate issue. I do not think this is Nitrate burn stunting this plant. There is literally just one burnt tip on only one leaf but it happens to be front and center in the main picture. Everyones eyes are being drawn to that one single burnt leaf tip. Notice that every single leaf tip if perfectly fine except for that ONE that is brown. If this was Nitrate burn the leaves would all be dark green and there would be a burn on every single leaf tip. Pinch off that burnt tip and retake the pics so everyone stops saying that! LOL

 
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Replies 24
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Started Dec 18, 2020
Latest post Dec 21, 2020
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Forum General Indoor Growing

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