Auto in bloom showing spots on upper leaves?

[Budclarkson]

what do you think OP?

I think it’s what @cannafarmer420 and others have said - mostly Light stress issue. This Blueberry just grew like gang busters and into the direct light cone. I thought the amount of light was low since I dialed it up from 30 to 60 slowly for this run.

I went to a 2 gallon pot then a 3.4 gallon pot it’s in now. As I recall there was still room in the 2 gallon when I removed it. Sorry didn’t take pics.

So what’s the consensus - hit it with a full dose of calmag the next time it dries out? I’ll leave it in indirect light on the side for now.

I assume the spotted leaves will continue to get a lot worse?? Hopefully it doesn’t continue to spread.

As for 3 finger, so they recover and start throwing 5’s again?

 

[Budclarkson]

The pot is dry again as it’s very light. Going to hit with Calmag but wondering maybe hit with some GH also.

Some more yellowing on bottom leaves. What do you think?

 

[Budclarkson]

CBD Auto also showing some 3 fingers and bottom leaf had yellow blotchiness after giving it some GH Micro and Bloom (mixed at 1tsp/gal each) but I didn’t give it much.

I didn’t PH check the GH mix and wait between mixing micro and then bloom. Apparently the label says that can cause lockout. What procedure works best for mixing properly?

 

[Budclarkson]

Watered…

 

[Budclarkson]

Cal mag mix PH using the GH kit

GH mix Micro and Bloom 3,5ml each in a gallon. Only applied a little between cal mag pies in the spotted blueberey.

Test Strips, calMag on top, GH nute mix on right

 

[Budclarkson]

May have overwatered a little. I forgot this was a 3.4 gallon pot and not a 5gal. Runoff is in a saucer where drain off collects and the bag is raised isn’t sitting in the pool - does that help?

Thoughts on the caveman PH readings?

 

[SnoopingAsUsualI]

May have overwatered a little. I forgot this was a 3.4 gallon pot and not a 5gal. Runoff is in a saucer where drain off collects and the bag is raised isn’t sitting in the pool - does that help?

Thoughts on the caveman PH readings?

If just once then nothing bad will happen, it will significantly affect the plant only if you do that constantly

 

[Captspaulding]

It’s just a lack of light penetration as well as airflows
It’s normal, no big deal.

 

[Budclarkson]

It’s just a lack of light penetration as well as airflows
It’s normal, no big deal.

Not sure what you mean by lack of light penetration. Recently lowered light intensity and raised the lighting. Affected plants are at the sides of the tent out of the way. So reduced light exposure to combat light stress…seems to be the consensus.

Tent is ventilated and exchanging air. Fan is on low but plants still wiggle a bit.

 

[Budclarkson]

Temp is 75F and RH is 57%. Vpd around 1.2.
I believe I need to dial down humidity.

Looking for recommendations on Temp and RH for Autos in bloom.

 

[Zer0Tolerance]

Temp is 75F and RH is 57%. Vpd around 1.2.
I believe I need to dial down humidity.

Looking for recommendations on Temp and RH for Autos in bloom.

OK so a few things for autos here. I just read through this whole post and I may have missed things, so please forgive me. Long post incoming. Sorry.

-Your VPD you're listing is room VPD. If you measure leaf temperature, it will likely be about 3 degrees cooler ish than ambient and that will put your VPD at about 0.99 kPa. I'd lower my humidity to about 50% if possible. That should raise leaf VPD to 1.2 kPa.

-Your 3 finger leaves indicate a problem. Without knowing your whole grow style and everything, I can only guess and leave it to you to dig through your notes to potentially help future grows. However, I see you mention that they were in 2 gal pots and then that got transplanted into 3.4gal pots. Transplanting an autoflower is highly debatable and can be successful with the right timing. I'd say the most successful transplant would be the earliest transplant. So, of you transplanted within the first couple weeks, then you should be alright. If not, then you may have introduced unnecessary stress. If you look at the pictures from previous, how big was it when you transplanted, and what was the leaf/growth structure like prior to that and then after? That may be the source of your odd growth.

-The odd growth I mentioned is both the 3 leaf leaves as well as the lack of branching. The taller plant you have seems to have mostly a main stalk and bud sites along it, with only 1 other branch that has buds on it. Normally, I'd expect somewhwre around 8 or so side branches off the main stalk, each with bud sites along their nodes.

-The leaves at the bottom WILL start to turn colors and die now. Especially given the distance from the light as compared to the top of the plant. They're not getting as much light and the plant is now focused on growing buds, not leaves. All those damaged leaves will likely only get worse too. So, don't go chasing your tail for the bottom leaves. Just let them die and make sure the overall health of the plant stays in check.

-Magnesium is a mobile nutrient, so it will pull from the lowers if it needs to. If it's a problem in the top part of the plant, it's likely not magnesium. It could be calcium however. Just wanted to mention that since they have different strategies for attack. If it was just magnesium, you could foliar feed Epsom salts and it will give it to the plants, but not cause an imbalance in the soil. Calcium is a bit different.

 

[Budclarkson]

OK so a few things for autos here. I just read through this whole post and I may have missed things, so please forgive me. Long post incoming. Sorry.

-Your VPD you're listing is room VPD. If you measure leaf temperature, it will likely be about 3 degrees cooler ish than ambient and that will put your VPD at about 0.99 kPa. I'd lower my humidity to about 50% if possible. That should raise leaf VPD to 1.2 kPa.

-Your 3 finger leaves indicate a problem. Without knowing your whole grow style and everything, I can only guess and leave it to you to dig through your notes to potentially help future grows. However, I see you mention that they were in 2 gal pots and then that got transplanted into 3.4gal pots. Transplanting an autoflower is highly debatable and can be successful with the right timing. I'd say the most successful transplant would be the earliest transplant. So, of you transplanted within the first couple weeks, then you should be alright. If not, then you may have introduced unnecessary stress. If you look at the pictures from previous, how big was it when you transplanted, and what was the leaf/growth structure like prior to that and then after? That may be the source of your odd growth.

-The odd growth I mentioned is both the 3 leaf leaves as well as the lack of branching. The taller plant you have seems to have mostly a main stalk and bud sites along it, with only 1 other branch that has buds on it. Normally, I'd expect somewhwre around 8 or so side branches off the main stalk, each with bud sites along their nodes.

-The leaves at the bottom WILL start to turn colors and die now. Especially given the distance from the light as compared to the top of the plant. They're not getting as much light and the plant is now focused on growing buds, not leaves. All those damaged leaves will likely only get worse too. So, don't go chasing your tail for the bottom leaves. Just let them die and make sure the overall health of the plant stays in check.

-Magnesium is a mobile nutrient, so it will pull from the lowers if it needs to. If it's a problem in the top part of the plant, it's likely not magnesium. It could be calcium however. Just wanted to mention that since they have different strategies for attack. If it was just magnesium, you could foliar feed Epsom salts and it will give it to the plants, but not cause an imbalance in the soil. Calcium is a bit different.

So I misspoke. These are the Autos and I went from 4” square starter pots directly to 3.4 gal bags. I have not been repotting Autos otherwise. However a couple of the Autos I didn’t get to transplant into the 3.4 gal bags as soon as I wanted in the tent. So could explain the 3 fingers on those.

The Photos in the other tent I went from 4” square to 2gal to 5gal. Those suckers are doing great. You can see my Top vs FIM job thread does those.

 

[Captspaulding]

Not sure what you mean by lack of light penetration. Recently lowered light intensity and raised the lighting. Affected plants are at the sides of the tent out of the way. So reduced light exposure to combat light stress…seems to be the consensus.

Tent is ventilated and exchanging air. Fan is on low but plants still wiggle a bit.

Your light doesn’t penetrate all the way to the bottom of your canopy, so a leaf died. It’s no big deal.

 

[Budclarkson]

-Magnesium is a mobile nutrient, so it will pull from the lowers if it needs to. If it's a problem in the top part of the plant, it's likely not magnesium. It could be calcium however. Just wanted to mention that since they have different strategies for attack. If it was just magnesium, you could foliar feed Epsom salts and it will give it to the plants, but not cause an imbalance in the soil. Calcium is a bit different.

I think you have something here. Spots appear exactly like this on the light stressed leaves.

Do you think it’s OK to start cranking the light intensity back up now and move the plant back under the light after the cal mag?

https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-plant-problems/calcium-deficiency

 

[Zer0Tolerance]

I think you have something here. Spots appear exactly like this on the light stressed leaves.

Do you think it’s OK to start cranking the light intensity back up now and move the plant back under the light after the cal mag?

https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-plant-problems/calcium-deficiency

I'm not too certain what your light is currently set to and the power and such, so I can't make recommendations based on that. However, at this stage in flower for my autos, I'd start working up to about 750 ppfd on 18/6 light schedule to meet 45 DLI. If the plant shows signs of stress on the way, I'll back off. If not, I keep going. Calcium will move through the plant slow and if that was the issue, then it will take some time for the plant to first uptake the calcium and then move it to the leaves.

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

Plants often need more Mg when grown under LED lights. I've been trying to learn why that occurs. According to one theory, it may be due to an incomplete light spectrum.

I’m thinking it’s cause it’s concentrated light. It peaks at blue and red, everything in between is overlooked by most.

I just think LEDs push them harder and it makes them eat more

I don't want to hijack this thread, so let's not do so. I may start a separate thread about Mg if I find useful information.

I am interested in the role of Mg in plant health, the relationship between Mg and LED light and the cause(s) of deficiency. Both of you may have valid points. There certainly does seem to be a relationship between light intensity and a plant's need for Mg. I referred to research indicating that lower levels of UV light from LED lights may create a need for more Mg. I believe this element's role is both essential and underrated, so understanding why it is a common deficiency is likely to be helpful.

 

[cannafarmer420]

I don't want to hijack this thread, so let's not do so. I may start a separate thread about Mg if I find useful information.

I am interested in the role of Mg in plant health, the relationship between Mg and LED light and the cause(s) of deficiency. Both of you may have valid points. There certainly does seem to be a relationship between light intensity and a plant's need for Mg. I referred to research indicating that lower levels of UV light from LED lights may create a need for more Mg. I believe this element's role is both essential and underrated, so understanding why it is a common deficiency is likely to be helpful.

If you get any good info share it please

 

[Budclarkson]

I'm not too certain what your light is currently set to and the power and such, so I can't make recommendations based on that. However, at this stage in flower for my autos, I'd start working up to about 750 ppfd on 18/6 light schedule to meet 45 DLI. If the plant shows signs of stress on the way, I'll back off. If not, I keep going. Calcium will move through the plant slow and if that was the issue, then it will take some time for the plant to first uptake the calcium and then move it to the leaves.

How about spritzing the upper leaves with some cal mag mix? Would that hasten uptake?

I usually try to keep liquids off plants.

 

[Budclarkson]

I'm not too certain what your light is currently set to and the power and such, so I can't make recommendations based on that. However, at this stage in flower for my autos, I'd start working up to about 750 ppfd on 18/6 light schedule to meet 45 DLI. If the plant shows signs of stress on the way, I'll back off. If not, I keep going. Calcium will move through the plant slow and if that was the issue, then it will take some time for the plant to first uptake the calcium and then move it to the leaves.

Light is ACI Iongrid T22

Here is a review with actual measurements.

I’m at around 2FT height but that tall top will be closer. I usually try to keep it at 18” but some may get to 14” or so. Right now dialed in at 50%, will move to 60%.

Here is spec data. Tent is 2x3. ACI Tech told me not to go to T33 for this size area, too big which makes sense.

 

[Glassdub]

I have a similar thing going on on this plant I'm assuming it's just a little hungry I fed it's starting to look better, I personally would avoid excess calcium as I overdid that last time and that can cause serious lockout.