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Budclarkson
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I think it’s what @cannafarmer420 and others have said - mostly Light stress issue. This Blueberry just grew like gang busters and into the direct light cone. I thought the amount of light was low since I dialed it up from 30 to 60 slowly for this run.what do you think OP?
If just once then nothing bad will happen, it will significantly affect the plant only if you do that constantlyMay have overwatered a little. I forgot this was a 3.4 gallon pot and not a 5gal. Runoff is in a saucer where drain off collects and the bag is raised isn’t sitting in the pool - does that help?
Thoughts on the caveman PH readings?
Not sure what you mean by lack of light penetration. Recently lowered light intensity and raised the lighting. Affected plants are at the sides of the tent out of the way. So reduced light exposure to combat light stress…seems to be the consensus.It’s just a lack of light penetration as well as airflows
It’s normal, no big deal.
OK so a few things for autos here. I just read through this whole post and I may have missed things, so please forgive me. Long post incoming. Sorry.Temp is 75F and RH is 57%. Vpd around 1.2.
I believe I need to dial down humidity.
Looking for recommendations on Temp and RH for Autos in bloom.
So I misspoke. These are the Autos and I went from 4” square starter pots directly to 3.4 gal bags. I have not been repotting Autos otherwise. However a couple of the Autos I didn’t get to transplant into the 3.4 gal bags as soon as I wanted in the tent. So could explain the 3 fingers on those.OK so a few things for autos here. I just read through this whole post and I may have missed things, so please forgive me. Long post incoming. Sorry.
-Your VPD you're listing is room VPD. If you measure leaf temperature, it will likely be about 3 degrees cooler ish than ambient and that will put your VPD at about 0.99 kPa. I'd lower my humidity to about 50% if possible. That should raise leaf VPD to 1.2 kPa.
-Your 3 finger leaves indicate a problem. Without knowing your whole grow style and everything, I can only guess and leave it to you to dig through your notes to potentially help future grows. However, I see you mention that they were in 2 gal pots and then that got transplanted into 3.4gal pots. Transplanting an autoflower is highly debatable and can be successful with the right timing. I'd say the most successful transplant would be the earliest transplant. So, of you transplanted within the first couple weeks, then you should be alright. If not, then you may have introduced unnecessary stress. If you look at the pictures from previous, how big was it when you transplanted, and what was the leaf/growth structure like prior to that and then after? That may be the source of your odd growth.
-The odd growth I mentioned is both the 3 leaf leaves as well as the lack of branching. The taller plant you have seems to have mostly a main stalk and bud sites along it, with only 1 other branch that has buds on it. Normally, I'd expect somewhwre around 8 or so side branches off the main stalk, each with bud sites along their nodes.
-The leaves at the bottom WILL start to turn colors and die now. Especially given the distance from the light as compared to the top of the plant. They're not getting as much light and the plant is now focused on growing buds, not leaves. All those damaged leaves will likely only get worse too. So, don't go chasing your tail for the bottom leaves. Just let them die and make sure the overall health of the plant stays in check.
-Magnesium is a mobile nutrient, so it will pull from the lowers if it needs to. If it's a problem in the top part of the plant, it's likely not magnesium. It could be calcium however. Just wanted to mention that since they have different strategies for attack. If it was just magnesium, you could foliar feed Epsom salts and it will give it to the plants, but not cause an imbalance in the soil. Calcium is a bit different.
Your light doesn’t penetrate all the way to the bottom of your canopy, so a leaf died. It’s no big deal.Not sure what you mean by lack of light penetration. Recently lowered light intensity and raised the lighting. Affected plants are at the sides of the tent out of the way. So reduced light exposure to combat light stress…seems to be the consensus.
Tent is ventilated and exchanging air. Fan is on low but plants still wiggle a bit.
I think you have something here. Spots appear exactly like this on the light stressed leaves.-Magnesium is a mobile nutrient, so it will pull from the lowers if it needs to. If it's a problem in the top part of the plant, it's likely not magnesium. It could be calcium however. Just wanted to mention that since they have different strategies for attack. If it was just magnesium, you could foliar feed Epsom salts and it will give it to the plants, but not cause an imbalance in the soil. Calcium is a bit different.
I'm not too certain what your light is currently set to and the power and such, so I can't make recommendations based on that. However, at this stage in flower for my autos, I'd start working up to about 750 ppfd on 18/6 light schedule to meet 45 DLI. If the plant shows signs of stress on the way, I'll back off. If not, I keep going. Calcium will move through the plant slow and if that was the issue, then it will take some time for the plant to first uptake the calcium and then move it to the leaves.I think you have something here. Spots appear exactly like this on the light stressed leaves.
Do you think it’s OK to start cranking the light intensity back up now and move the plant back under the light after the cal mag?
https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-plant-problems/calcium-deficiency
Plants often need more Mg when grown under LED lights. I've been trying to learn why that occurs. According to one theory, it may be due to an incomplete light spectrum.
I’m thinking it’s cause it’s concentrated light. It peaks at blue and red, everything in between is overlooked by most.
I just think LEDs push them harder and it makes them eat more
If you get any good info share it pleaseI don't want to hijack this thread, so let's not do so. I may start a separate thread about Mg if I find useful information.
I am interested in the role of Mg in plant health, the relationship between Mg and LED light and the cause(s) of deficiency. Both of you may have valid points. There certainly does seem to be a relationship between light intensity and a plant's need for Mg. I referred to research indicating that lower levels of UV light from LED lights may create a need for more Mg. I believe this element's role is both essential and underrated, so understanding why it is a common deficiency is likely to be helpful.
How about spritzing the upper leaves with some cal mag mix? Would that hasten uptake?I'm not too certain what your light is currently set to and the power and such, so I can't make recommendations based on that. However, at this stage in flower for my autos, I'd start working up to about 750 ppfd on 18/6 light schedule to meet 45 DLI. If the plant shows signs of stress on the way, I'll back off. If not, I keep going. Calcium will move through the plant slow and if that was the issue, then it will take some time for the plant to first uptake the calcium and then move it to the leaves.
Light is ACI Iongrid T22I'm not too certain what your light is currently set to and the power and such, so I can't make recommendations based on that. However, at this stage in flower for my autos, I'd start working up to about 750 ppfd on 18/6 light schedule to meet 45 DLI. If the plant shows signs of stress on the way, I'll back off. If not, I keep going. Calcium will move through the plant slow and if that was the issue, then it will take some time for the plant to first uptake the calcium and then move it to the leaves.
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